Indholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2018 i Whisky Advocate

The cocktail pick serves an important purpose, keeping fingers dry while plucking a plump cherry from a Manhattan or fishing a twist from the depths of an Old-Fashioned. Sure, a wooden toothpick could do the job. But why not impress your guests by spearing some fruit with style? Whether you choose a cheeky plastic pick or a satin sterling silver spike, crafted like fine jewelry, the only thing you’ll wet is your whistle.…

Some great names in wine, like Chateau d’Yquem, Oregon’s Brooks, and others are popping up in the whisky aisle. Not content with a generic sherry or port finish, more distillers are working with notable wineries to find wine barrels that complement their whisky. Portland’s Bull Run Distilling Co. finishes whiskey in pinot noir casks from nearby Oregon producers like Trisaetum and Brooks. For Chris Williams, winemaker at Brooks, the whiskey doesn’t fall far from the wine. He observes that Bull Run’s whiskey finished in his barrels shares a certain “rusticity” with his wine. “I really like that quality in pinot noir, and I find that in this whiskey,” he says. “I think the older pinot barrels give [the whiskey] an old-world character, which I really enjoy in wines, too.” It…

Calculator App to scale percentages and proportions. Japanese-Style Jigger with 0.5 and 0.75-ounce measurements, for building single-serving vattings. cocktailkingdom.com Glass Eye-Dropper marked in increments for adding tiny flavoring portions. premiumvials.com Graduated Cylinder with ounce markings for larger batches. A measuring cup works fine, too. amazon.com Flask Funnel for filling bottles both large and small. bigkitchen.com Boston Round Bottles of sample sizes (2 oz.) and larger (32 oz.). Label each with the formula or give your whisky a name. amazon.com…

More than just sugar, honey lends its warming, sunny sweetness to a cup of tea or a glistening glaze for chicken wings. Of course, honey is not just a single flavor. A natural food product of honeybees, honey reflects its origins, whether the nectar was collected from a Scottish heather moor or from wildflowers growing on a California mountainside. Honey connoisseurs will happily pay a premium for a quality, single-source jar from an artisanal apiary, admiring the spectrum of honeyed colors from gold to deep mahogany, and their nuances of flavors in a way familiar to whisky lovers. Honey and alcohol have shared a connection through drinks like mead, liqueurs, and whiskies flavored with honey. Even whiskies that don’t include honey can have flavors of it. Notes of honey often…

Sowing Seeds of the Future “Barley is really the key ingredient behind the success of Scotch whisky,” says Dr. Bill Thomas, a cereal grain researcher at Scotland’s James Hutton Institute, a research center for land, crops, water, and the environment. “But barley needs to meet the challenges posed by climate change.” Hotter, drier summers could have a direct impact on the success of spring barley, the main malting crop for whisky. Thomas warns, “Scotland is not producing enough barley to meet the distillers’ needs.” Selective breeding has improved the malt extract and alcohol yields from spring barley. Lower-yielding winter barley has not had the same focus, but is promising as well. Due to the fact that it’s harvested earlier, it can escape the adverse impact hot, dry summers can have…

Many non-chill filtered whiskies proclaim it on the label. But if you are uncertain, these easy tests can help determine if a whisky has been filtered for aesthetic reasons. Shake it Up Swish the bottle and look closely as the whisky drips down the inside of the bottle neck. Tomaszewski says non-chill filtered whisky will often reveal cloudy residue. Fuggedaboutit According to Tomaszewski, a non-chill filtered whisky allowed to sit out in a glass overnight will become opaque. Put the Chill On Place the bottle in the freezer. “If you do not see any cloudiness once the temperature of the liquid gets below 30?F, then it is probably a good indication that the whisky was chill filtered,” Potter says. The Burden of Proof Higher-proof whiskies make it more challenging to…

It is likely not a surprise to readers of this august publication that, for Scotch whisky distillers, age represents a very delicate balancing act. On the one hand, after distillers spent years telling consumers that older whisky was better—and justifiably pricier—than younger ones, reduced stocks of mature whiskies are now prompting them to emphasize that malts without an age statement can, after all, be just as good. Yet, at the same time, those very distillers are releasing an unprecedented number of extremely old and expensive single malts. Balance these two messages correctly and it creates a beneficial situation for consumers at both the high and lower price points, plus, of course, a profitable market for the distillers. A slip-up on their delivery causes the whole situation to look a little…

Whisky may evolve slowly in the cask, but occasionally a progressive leap forward comes along, a seismic development that changes everything in a heartbeat. The privilege of delivering these accomplishments comes with lasting recognition. Generations of whisky makers follow in the footsteps of the innovators, offering refinements on genius, but forever in their debt. These ten junctures have helped to forge the taste, heighten the pleasure, and illuminate the joy we discover in a glass of good whisky today. TAXING WORK Single Pot Still Whiskey 1785 Like America’s Declaration of Independence, Ireland’s single pot still whiskey is the brilliant result of a bunch of guys who didn’t want to pay their taxes. With the passage of the Malt Tax in 1785, Irish distillers were forced to pay duty on malted…

Springtime whiskies should be fresh and bursting with the aromas of blossoming flowers and ripening fruits. A cluster of whiskies from distilleries around Scotland’s northeastern coast, including Glenmorangie, Deveron, and Glenglassaugh deliver lightly fragrant floral notes and sweet fruity flavors to suit the optimism of the season. Glenmorangie 10 year old Original brings floral complexity, peach stone, apricot, and citrus notes, Glenglassaugh Evolution has its vanilla, salted caramel, and white pepper, and Deveron 12 year old from Macduff conveys heavenly sweet charms. These single malts share an elegance and beauty that brings to mind a more placid sea, and the shoreline leaves a subtle impression upon the whiskies as they develop inside the cask. “Everything we make at Glenmorangie is matured on the shores of the Dornoch Firth,” says Andy…

With a renewed dedication to age statements, the arrival of the new Dewar’s 25 year old gave us an ideal excuse to revisit the range. For the new expression, master blender Stephanie MacLeod has continued the well-established Dewar’s tradition of double-aging the final blend, but innovatively she has taken the whisky one step beyond with further finishing in former single malt casks. Beyond Dewar’s White Label, the non-age statement blend first sold in 1899, the range includes 12 and 15 year old expressions that are excellent whiskies offered at reasonable prices. 93 Dewar’s 25 year old, 40%, $225 Aged for a quarter century and finished in Royal Brackla casks? Count me in. The nose is highly attractive; a rich maltiness unfolds with vanilla oak, flapjacks, whole almonds, and gentle background…

IRISH SINGLE MALT 92 The Temple Bar 12 year old, 40%, $107 Matured in American oak in the private cellar of this Dublin bar, this flaunts zested lemons, a fine layer of honey, orange segments, and sanded oak. It’s splendidly floral, but reassuringly not perfumed. Sweet, smooth caramels, oranges, spicy pepper, and gingerbread, though the spices never overstep the mark. Develops with concentrated citrus, vanilla fudge, and chocolate orange and slips down effortlessly. Soothing, relaxing, and perfectly matured.—JM 91 Exclusive Malts Irish 2003 13 year old, 54.2%, $125 A great discussion whiskey for a themed tasting, this has a comforting nose of vanilla, malt, barley sugar, and creamed-coconut macaroons, with hints of nutmeg and grated chocolate. The palate brings fruity satsuma, barley sugar, and an explosion of pepper, ginger, and…

AUSTRIA 90 Reisetbauer 15 year old, 48%, $133 Distilled by Hans Reisetbauer, this is like an amplified version of his 12 year old (see below). Red pears, pomegranate, walnut husks, and more active spices, from mace and asafetida to coriander. The flavors unfurl sedately over the palate like a flower coming into bloom: soft honeyed fruit, pear, raspberry, strawberry, spices, bramble, and chocolate drops. A drying finish of five-spice, dried apple, and chocolate. Best of this Austrian trio.—JM 88 Reisetbauer 7 year old, 43%, $90 The youngest offering has an attractive fruity nose with red apple, menthol, and wax candles, all nicely backed with spicy oak. Honey-dipped apple slices, citrus, chocolate-covered raisins, and very gentle spice make this a most agreeable sipping whisky. The finish has coffee grounds with a…

Yes, I’m still annoyed. Thanks for asking. This time it’s dives, or dive bars, that are doing it. Not that I’ve ever been annoyed by a bar of any sort, but because (you should pardon the quotes) “Dive Bars” is now an actual category found in city magazines, travel guides, websites, and the minds of today’s youth (or yoots as Joe Pesci said as Cousin Vinny). And what those yoots think of as a dive bar is troubling in the extreme, mostly because they include virtually all the saloons I hung out in when I was a yoot myself. Seriously, if the guy behind the stick isn’t wearing a pork pie hat and they don’t have Death Before Dishonor Double-Dutch IPA on tap, they think it’s a dive. Add any…

WHISKY TRAVELERS Dear Whisky Advocate, This past summer, I thumbed across your new magazine (summer 2017 edition) and was quickly entrenched. I poured a lowball of Michter’s and read. The enlightening articles, helpful advertisements, and intentionality of the magazine caught my attention. But page sixteen’s Sippin’ in the City by the Bay got my mind spinning and spontaneity flowing. A day or two later, I introduced this trip idea to my two best bros, who I enjoy sipping whisky with. Within another small time span we had our flights, hotel, reservations, and itinerary set. We flew out on a Sunday and we were tasting whiskeys from Seven Stills by 5:00pm! … Thank you for helping my buddies and I create incredible memories and for getting us better acquainted with the…

Remember a time when devotees of the Manhattan had few options when it came to choosing a vermouth to stir with their whiskey? An era when Martinis were mixed so dry that it mattered little what was misted on top? Vermouth, a wine fortified with distilled spirits, was once a sleepy mixer gathering dust on the shelf. Thanks to the rebirth of cocktail culture, those days are over. Born in the Piedmont region of northwest Italy in the 16th century or even earlier, vermouth was originally used to make medicinal herbs more palatable. Production spread to neighboring French and Swiss regions and became a cottage industry in all three countries. By the 18th century, vermouth moved beyond its medicinal roots and was commonly enjoyed as an appetite enhancer. America discovered…

Charcuterie has long been a staple of French cuisine, but the widespread embrace of nose-to-tail eating has led to new popularity for high-quality cured meats. Platters of charcuterie now appear on menus everywhere from neighborhood sports bars to white tablecloth restaurants. Lindy Wildsmith, author of the cookbook and preserving manual Cured, suggests that our passion for cured meat runs much deeper than current culinary trends. “Salt has been an essential part of our diets for thousands of years and was a valuable commodity,” she says. “We love salt, we love fat a little less, but [they are] now beginning to enjoy a revival. Honestly, I think the love of charcuterie is written in our DNA.” While there are many methods used to cure and preserve meat and fish, the most…

NAPA VALLEY Amador Double Barrel Bourbon Kentucky bourbon finished in California, in barrels that previously cosseted Napa Valley wine. Its sibling, Amador Ten Barrels, is hop-flavored whiskey finished in Trinchero Family chardonnay barrels. NORTHERN RHÔNE VALLEY Benromach Hermitage Wood Finish The current release of this Speyside charmer spent its final 31 months in Hermitage wine casks from France’s Northern Rhone Valley, home to some of the world’s finest syrah. WILLAMETTE VALLEY Bull Run Distilling Company Pinot Noir Finished American Whiskey Portland-based Bull Run uses barrels from standout Oregon winemakers including Brooks and Trisaetum. Look for other Oregon wine and whiskey collaborations from this distillery in the future. PASO ROBLES Crown Royal Noble Collection Wine Barrel Finished This Canadian whisky spends 6 months in American oak that previously held cabernet sauvignon…

Global drinks giant Diageo, owner of Johnnie Walker, Lagavulin, and other whiskies, is reportedly planning new products and processes that could challenge the nature of scotch. The Wall Street Journal reports the company formed a “secret task force” last year to determine how Scotch whisky is “constrained” in regulatory, legal, technical, and other ways and to explore the “scope for reform.” Two ideas are highlighted: the creation of “Scotch whisky infusions,” low-alcohol and/or flavored alcohol beverages, and single malt scotch finished in Don Julio Tequila barrels. “Scotch infusions” could fail to meet two legal criteria for Scotch whisky: bottling at 40% ABV or above and the exclusion of additives. In addition, Diageo reportedly planned to use the names of existing scotch brands, which could lead to confusion among drinkers. Section…

The rebirth of our herb gardens lends whisky cocktails a fresh and vibrant spin that neatly fills the void between fireside Manhattans and summer’s whisky Highballs. “Adding herbs in whisky cocktails is a great way to accentuate many of the other elements, like citrus, bitters, and sugar,” says Kaitlin Ryan, bartender at PABU Izakaya in San Francisco. In her words, these drinks are “a bouquet of flavor in a glass.” Country Club Smash Created by Brock Schulte, bar director of The Monarch Cocktail Bar & Lounge, Kansas City “This smooth, fresh take on a classic Smash has a little island flavor, but is all-American at its core,” says Schulte. Coconut water meets fresh mint, a natural flavor partner for chocolatey creme de cacao. 1 ½ oz. Rittenhouse rye (or other…

North Port is a lost distillery that collectors are trying to find. A dry, fruity Highland whisky, it’s sweet and nutty, with a subtle delivery of smoke. It’s currently delivering good profits too; average prices are up by more than 50 percent in a year for the North Port Rare Malts Selection expressions, the first official bottlings released in the 1990s. A neighbor to Glencadam Distillery, North Port was situated on the east coast of Scotland in Brechin, Angus. The Distillers Company Limited ended production in 1983 during a bleak period that saw multiple distillery closures, and the site was later demolished. Average hammer prices for the Rare Malts surged to $550 a bottle last year, up from $350 a bottle in 2016. While the Rare Malts were produced at…

THE CLAIM Catalyzes esterification (the creation of pleasant, usually fruity flavors) and polymer degradation that happens in a barrel over time, resulting in a spirit that tastes several years old TIME IT TAKES 6 days Distillate is heated with a “tea bag” of oak pieces treated with water or wine to strip some tannins, causing esterification of weak acids. Liquid and oak are exposed to high-intensity light, triggering degradation of polymer structures on the oak, which develops carboxylic and phenolic acids and phenols, creating specific flavors. Liquid is heated againto chemically bind phenols to alcohols and esters for additional complex flavors, bringing together everything created in steps 1 and 2.…

SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALTS 91 Glenfiddich Winter Storm 21 year old, 43%, $250 Glenfiddich’s Experimental Series continues with this expression, finished for up to 6 months in ice wine casks sourced from Peller Estates winery in Ontario, Canada. Concentrated aromas of canned peaches in syrup, vanilla, and clotted cream. Silky on the palate, with a carryover of peaches from the nose and succulent blood oranges. The finish is medium in length, slowly drying, but fruity to the end. (7,800 bottles in U.S.)—GS 90 Exclusive Malts 2006 (distilled at Linkwood) 11 year old, 58.2%, $100 The nose is pleasingly floral, with soft spice, malt, heather in bloom, and even a suggestion of violets. Well textured on the palate, oily and nutty, with tropical fruits, honey, milk chocolate, vanilla, and malt. The finish…

BOURBON 93 Elijah Craig Barrel Proof (Batch C917), 65.5%, $65 When complex spice meets complex caramel, it makes for a wonderful American whiskey experience. That’s exactly what happens here with a cadre of baking spices over fruit, such as cinnamon baked apples, nutmeg sprinkled over pears, and peaches dusted with clove, followed by butterscotch, vanilla custard, and creme brulee. The balanced and brilliant finish stays true to its complexity.—FM 93 Michter’s 25 year old, 58.1%, $800 It packs a beautiful nose, with arcs of chocolate, vanilla wafer, cherry, caramelized brown sugar, baked pears, creme brulee being torched, and coconut. These notes become concentrated and are complemented by cola, tobacco, spice, toffee, and pepper. Then hazelnut and vanilla coat the mouth, sitting there for a couple of minutes until the end—a…

Last year, a group of prominent New York distillers announced the creation of a new style of whiskey: Empire rye. Any whiskey so labeled must be made from at least 75% New York State rye grain and aged in charred new oak barrels for at least 2 years, along with a few other requirements intended to ensure top quality. The initial group of distillers all released an Empire rye to kick off the bold and ambitious new designation, and we tasted them all. The inaugural lineup holds promise, but many could benefit from more than the minimum of 2 years in a barrel. These are the best so far. 89 Finger Lakes Distilling McKenzie Straight Rye, 45.5%, $42 A beguiling nose, replete with cinnamon crumble, blueberry bubble gum, and cardamom.…

When we contemplate Mexican spirits, we instinctively think of tequila and mezcal in all their many tasty guises, but not whiskey. Based in the culinary hotspot of Oaxaca, Douglas French is not only the man behind Scorpion Mezcal, but also a true whiskey innovator. He had the vision to develop a range of Mexican corn whiskeys named after the Sierra Norte Mountains. He distilled them from native heirloom varieties of corn and matured them in French oak casks. If you love corn whiskey, ease yourself in with White, but if you’re looking for greater adventures in flavor, explore the Black or Yellow corn expressions. 90 Sierra Norte Single Barrel Yellow, 45%, $50 Blue iris, dried chilies, and fresh linen; the corn is sweet and fat, and the aromas integrate more…

Atsby Amberthorn 16%, $40 This New York State vermouth is made from a simple formula based on Chinese anise, French lavender, apple brandy, and honey. DRINK IT In a Wet Martini (one part gin, one part Amberthorn). Carpano Antica Formula 16.5%, $32 Introduced in 1786, Carpano was Italy’s first commercial vermouth. The rebirth of the Antica Formula (old recipe) revives its complex mix of vanilla and cocoa. Its sister, Punt e Mes ($22), is a bittersweet dance of oranges, flowers, and cinnamon. DRINK IT In a classic Manhattan (two parts rye, one part vermouth). Cinzano 1757 Rosso 16.5%, $20 This Italian small-batch vermouth is a limited and numbered bottling. Although fruity and red, it has a welcome bitterness considering its coloration. DRINK IT In a Bourbon Manhattan to balance the…

Shiny copper stills get all the attention, but the most challenging part of whisky making usually happens behind closed doors. Except for single barrel offerings, almost every whisky is a blend of barrels. Master blenders face a challenge whether they’re replicating a flavor profile or striving to create something totally unique. “Blending is a creative art,” explains John Glaser, founder and whisky maker at Compass Box Whisky, which specializes in the innovative blending of whiskies. Although distilling must be left to the professionals, anyone can experiment with creating blends at home. Amateurs are now blending custom whiskies from commercially-available bottles, a practice many refer to as “vatting.” In a way, the task is easier than the one facing a distillery’s master blender, since most bottles on the market have already…

Each guest is limited to two bags, no more than 12” in any direction. There’s a long list of what not to bring (like alcohol beverages), but here’s what you should pack. Doyle’s top tip for ladies is to bring cheap flip-flops that fit in a purse. Dressing up is part of the experience, but suffering doesn’t have to be. Umbrellas aren’t permitted. Instead, pack a poncho, suggests Learst. On the flip side, bring sunscreen and sunglasses, since nearly all the infield seats are uncovered. You’ll be buying your bourbon, so save money by bringing water and soft drinks, which are permitted in sealed clear plastic containers. Pack a box lunch. Better yet, have one packed for you. Many area restaurants offer boxed Derby and Oaks day lunches to preorder,…

Have you ever picked up a bottle of whisky and noticed the liquid inside is hazy? Or dropped ice into a glass of whisky only to see it turn cloudy? Fear not, this isn’t faulty product. It’s whisky that is non-chill filtered, and it’s coveted by enthusiasts. Unless it’s chill filtered, any bottle of whisky that’s diluted with water or allowed to sit undisturbed at room temperature for a couple of hours will develop a haze, says former Four Roses master distiller Jim Rutledge. “The haze will ultimately turn to ugly, nasty looking solids in the bottle,” he says. In fact, confused consumers often return these hazy bottles to the store, says Jefferson’s bourbon founder Trey Zoeller. “As much as I love the nonchill filtration, it’s a pain. People find…

With legs kicked up, a cigar in one hand, and bourbon in another, I sip, smoke, and don’t think about what I’m tasting. My focus is on my friends: the millennial, the rocker, and the executive. We come from different backgrounds, net worths, and beliefs, but we have mutual core goals—drink good bourbon and smoke great cigars. We call it the good life, as we sit in our “lounge” and shoot the breeze, usually dissing on one another as if we’re back in high school, and enjoy each other’s company. The personal sipping journey is better with good friends, and to fully enjoy the experience it’s necessary to take a step back and realize I’m not a critic in these moments. If I try to determine if the ginger note…

Looking to explore the flavors of world whisky? These high-quality whiskies from the Whisky Advocate Buying Guide are available in the U.S., and a great place to start. 93 Rampur Single Malt 43% • $65 India Chocolate, coffee, and red berry fruits, with hints of exotic spice. 92 Pür Geist 42% • $50 Germany Soft on the palate. Lychee, melon, and vinous notes turn spicy on the finish. 92 Yoichi Single Malt 45% • $80 Japan Earthy peat, briny seashells, and citrus are silky smooth on the palate. 90 Fukano 2017 Edition 42.8% • $80 Japan Light and candied, with watermelon and peach, but dry on the finish. 90 Hibiki Japanese Harmony 43% • $65 Japan Poised and complex, yet delicate, with bright fruit and a touch of smoke. 90…

Claims that whisky made using alternative technologies tastes as good as whisky made through traditional means deserve to be put to the test. We pitted several of these “tech” whiskies against similarly priced counterparts from mainstream and craft distillers, all tasted blind by members of the Whisky Advocate review staff. In the majority of cases, the tech whiskies averaged lower scores than the other whiskies in the flight. (The exception was Lost Spirits Abomination, which performed favorably even alongside some classic Islay malts.) Most of the time, though not always, the tasters were able to identify the alternatively aged whiskies, which often showed assertive wood and notes typical of young spirit. Here’s how they measured up. 87 Lost Spirits Abomination The Sayers of the Law, 54%, $50 Actual Time in…

93 Ardbeg An Oa 46.6%, $60 A French Oak marrying vat helps integrate smoky Ardbeg matured in a variety of cask types: charred virgin oak, Pedro Ximenez, and first-fill bourbon. Dark chocolate, peat, aniseed, black tea, clove, and pepper make this a dynamic Ardbeg. 92 Oban Little Bay 43%, $75 Features dried fruits, chocolate orange, a touch of salt, and clove. Combining mature Oban from European oak sherry casks, refill casks with new heads, and refill hogsheads to marry in small oak casks achieves a rich, rounded style. 92 Springbank 15 year old 46%, $120 The oloroso sherry influence brings out soft leather, dried fruits, black tea, brine, peat, spicy tannins, raisins, and Brazil nut, leaving an appealing smoke trail in its wake. A contemplative digestif or good choice with…

92 Orphan Barrel Entrapment 25 year old, 41%, $150 A captivating nose presents hints of polished leather shoes and clean oak. Less sweet than expected, Entrapment goes straight to long-evolved high esters, dried figs and dates, green fruits, and soaring fruity floral notes. Its spicy finish lasts forever. This very complex and tightly integrated whisky has all the woody, acetonelike glories of long-aged scotches. Then finally, some barley sugar, but only after sitting long in the glass.—DdeK…

96 Yamazaki Mizunara Cask 18 year old 2017 Edition, 48%, $1,000 When whisky lovers talk about the grandeur of Japanese whisky, the enlightenment they desire can be found within this bottle. A refined luxury evocative of toasted marshmallow, sweet incense, butter-soft caramels, oak spices, and ground cinnamon. All the hallmarks of mizunara are here. Concentrated sweet citrus, so intensely fruity on the palate; the mouthfeel is rapturously silky with touches of mango, dried apricot, and gentle but resilient spices.—JM 93 Yamazaki 12 year old, 43%, $85 The first thing you notice is the elegant fragrance of lychee, spring blossoms, lily, rosewater, and raspberry meringue. Deeper in, grassy notes with star fruit, kumquat, and kaffir lime leaves. The flavors offer perfection in their simplicity: silky honey, soft spices, crystalized pineapple, barley…

SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALT 91 Benromach 1977, 56%, £1,250 This 39 year old was matured in a single refill American hogshead. Orange Jujubes on the early nose, with vanilla, honey, and linseed. Big, sweet, soft fruit notes on the palate, with pipe tobacco and a hint of background peat smoke. Aniseed and ginger develop, along with the merest hint of old oak in the persistently fruity finish. (225 bottles)—GS 90 BenRiach Authenticus Peated 30 year old, 46%, £400 Following on from 21 and 25 year old expressions of Authenticus, BenRiach has now added its oldest variant yet to the lineup. The nose offers orchard fruits, honey, polished oak, and vanilla-tinged peat smoke. Full and fruity on the palate, with sweet peat having a presence, plus milk chocolate and licorice. The finish…