Indholdsfortegnelse for Spring 2024 i Whisky Advocate

John Glaser launched Compass Box Whisky Company in 2000, bringing a breath of fresh air to the somewhat hidebound image of scotch whisky that was prevalent at the time. With whisky fans convinced that single malts were far superior to blends, Glaser brought new thinking, radically enlivened the appearance of whisky labels, and ushered in a new culture of transparency about the source and age of whiskies in a blend. The legacy of limited-edition Compass Box expressions makes this a highly collectible brand, but those investing for profit are advised to pick and choose wisely and study carefully. Compass Box came to wider prominence for many whisky lovers following a David and Goliath-style clash with the Scotch Whisky Association in 2005 over the release of Spice Tree, after objections were…

“Frankenstein” is hot. Or he was last year in the toe-dancing game. One of the hottest ballet tickets in the country was Joffrey Ballet’s version of everyone’s favorite lab experiment. It was hard on the heels of “Of Mice and Men”—the ballet, a terpsichorean blast from the fictional past, but with pas de deux. If you’re keeping score at home, things didn’t turn out any better for Lennie or the Creature on stage than they did on the page, although neither of them had to dance en pointe. (We’ll need to wait for the balletic sequel “Bride of Frankenstein” for that.) And put down that smartphone—I know they were both artistic triumphs and I don’t need you to confirm what I have been advised of right here in the home…

94 Deanston 15 year old Tequila Cask Finish Scotch Single Malt, 51%, $280 Aged in oak hogsheads for 13 years before spending an additional 2 years in tequila casks. Lime, honey, vanilla, barrel char, green banana, crème brûlée, and key lime pie. 94 Glenfiddich 29 year old Grand Yozakura Awamori Finish Scotch Single Malt, 45.1%, $2,000 Breaking new ground with an Awamori finish using casks from Okinawa, this well-aged Speyside malt has flavors of creamy vanilla, honeyed apple, cocoa, cinnamon bark, and a spiced apple finish. 93 Craigellachie 13 year old Bas Armagnac Finished Scotch Single Malt, 46%, $65 Aged in bourbon and sherry casks before getting a year of finishing in Bas Armagnac casks for just over a year. Well spiced, honeyed, and full of vanilla sweetness, with some…

95 Lagavulin 11 year old Offerman Edition: Guinness Cask Finish Scotch Single Malt, 46%, $80 Our Whisky of the Year in 2021, this was finished for 4 months in Guinness casks from its former U.S. brewery in Maryland. Peat smoke, maritime notes, fragrant citrus, toffee, chocolate, and coffee. 92 Jameson Caskmates Angel City Brewing Co. Edition Irish, 40%, $30 Jameson’s beer-finished whiskey program partners with craft brewers around the world, this one with Los Angeles brewer Angel City. Honeyed, light fruit, vanilla creaminess, with peppercorn and dark chocolate. 92 Sagamore Spirit Ale Cask Finished Rye, 49%, $69 A 4 year old rye finished for 11 months in bourbon barrels used for aging ale, this one has notes of grape hard candy, roasted coffee beans, semi-sweet chocolate, and pepper spice. 91…

The story of sherry production is one of turning a single grape variety, Palomino fino, into an array of stylistic variations. It accounts for 95% of production, though Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez are used to make sherry’s sweetest renditions, and the richness of the latter’s casks in particular play a prominent role in whisky finishing. The key in sherry production is whether it’s aged under a layer of yeast known as flor, in a process called biological aging. Fino sherry is dry, and aged under flor for a minimum of 2 years, while amontillado begins under flor until the yeast is killed off and then finishes its maturation in oxidative conditions. Oloroso is aged from the start with no flor. Palo Cortado was originally an accident of production, but is…

Stranahan’s WHERE Denver, Colorado WHEN Early December WHAT’S AVAILABLE If you’re early enough, that year’s Snowflake release. Tasting notes won’t be available ahead of time, but all Snowflakes are base Stranahan’s single malt that’s finished in an array of casks, ranging from port to rum to mezcal or Islay scotch. (This year’s featured a little bit of each of those.)  IS CAMPING ALLOWED? Yes, you can stay on the property overnight in a tent or an RV. Garrison Brothers WHERE Hye, Texas WHEN Late September WHAT’S AVAILABLE Cowboy bourbon, the brand’s most coveted expression. The 2023 release consisted of 9,600 bottles, with about 1,000 available at the distillery itself. A retail release, albeit limited, happens after the day of festivities. Check the website a month prior to learn tasting notes…

Most people know that tequila and mezcal are both crafted from agave. Beyond that, the well of knowledge usually runs dry. A few pointers on the differences between these two types of spirits will help enhance your appreciation of mezcal, Mexico’s once-forgotten agave spirit whose popularity is now blooming. Regulations require that only blue Weber agave be used for tequila. Around 30 varieties can be used for mezcal, but there are just a handful that are typically used. The denominations of origin for each also specify different Mexican states in which they can legally be grown. So although these two spirits are both agave-based, the differences are significant. Five Mezcals to Try As mezcal continues to grow in popularity and prominence, American consumers will no doubt have access to more.…

TENNESSEE 95 Jack Daniel’s 12 year old, 53.5%, $95/700 ml The second release of this 12 year old, which debuted early last year. Fragrant nose of tobacco, oak, strawberries, and an inviting sweetness. Balanced and mellow on the palate, with red berries, chocolate, and spice. It fills out superbly with water, unlocking more chocolate and balanced spice. Very sippable, and more mellow than its 10 year old counterpart. A long finish of espresso, bitter chocolate, red berries, and perfumed aged oak.—DF ISLANDS SINGLE MALT 95 Torabhaig The Legacy Series Allt Gleann Batch Strength, 61.1%, $90 Warming peat fire on the nose, with lots of balanced salinity, smoked bacon, barbecue, and a light candied note. Golden raisins and honey on the delightfully sweet palate are balanced by generous spice. Water brings…

Meikle Tòir (pronounced mee-kuhl tor) is a new range of 5 year old peated Speyside single malts produced at Glenallachie Distillery by master distiller Billy Walker. Walker began producing peated spirit at Glenallachie in 2018, the first time this had been attempted since the distillery was founded in 1967. Meikle Tòir means “the big pursuit,” and in his quest of peated perfection, Walker uses mainland peat, a lengthy fermentation of 160 hours, and a meticulous selection of high-quality casks to create this sweet, smoky style. The malt in each small batch expression was peated to 35 phenol parts per million (ppm), except The Turbo 2023 Edition, which is the spirit from the “heart of the heart” of the distillate, and was made using malt peated to 71 ppm. 93 Meikle…

PROVENANCE MATTERS In the fertile highlands of Jalisco, Mexico, the Blue Weber agave plant is distinct among hundreds of agave species, flourishing and absorbing the land’s unique flavors. This specific plant, the region’s mineral-rich volcanic soils, the day-night temperature swings found at high altitudes, and traditional cultivation methods intersect in a concept known as terroir. Wine connoisseurs obsess over how this concept shapes the character of a fine wine, but it is just as crucial to fine tequila, as opposed to most other spirits. As confirmation of terroir’s importance to tequila production, in 1974 the region was recognized as the first Denomination of Origin (DO) outside Europe, taking its name from the historic center of production and highlighting its significance and uniqueness in the global spirits market. Just 15 years…

MEET THE FAMILIA PATRÓN The beating heart behind every sip of Patrón isn’t just the finest agave or traditional methods; it’s also a community of passionate individuals, each bringing an unmistakable imprint of craftsmanship and quality to the process. Initially a small team of 32, Patrón tequila has grown to a community of over 2,500 employees, becoming the largest employer in Atotonilco el Alto and of any distillery in Mexico. From the skilled jimadores in the fields to the master distillers and craftsmen in the Hacienda, each member of the team contributes their unique skills and passion, a collective effort that is a testament to the belief that the best tequila cannot be produced by machines or automated processes—it requires the human touch: the intuition and care that can only…

If it seems like Korean food restaurants are more abundant than ever, it’s not your imagination. According to The Food Institute, western interest in Korean fare shot up 90% in the 12 months preceding January 2022, and the number of Korean restaurants located outside of Korea has risen proportionally, growing to roughly 7,000 in the U.S. alone, according to marketing research firm IbisWorld. This burgeoning popularity comes as the direct result of an orchestrated, multiyear strategy developed by South Korea’s Ministry for Food, Agriculture, Forestry and Fisheries. First announced in 2008, according to a 2022 article by Ligaya Mishan in “T” magazine, the mission was to elevate “Korean food to the highest ranks of the world’s favorite cuisines” via massive growth in the number of overseas Korean restaurants—ultimately more than…

Coming by way of Mexico, Ancho Reyes is a liqueur made from chiles grown in the volcanic soil of the Puebla region. For the Verde expression, the chiles are picked when they are green; for Original, the chiles are picked after they turn red. The chiles used for Original are sun dried for 15-20 days, while chiles for Verde are fire roasted, then macerated and soaked in small vats of neutral cane spirits for up to 6 months. After resting it’s bottled at 40% ABV—higher than many other liqueurs—and packs quite a kick in both flavor and proof. It’s smoky, sweet, and spicy—similar to many whiskies. This makes the two perfect partners for cocktails. “The spice in Ancho Reyes makes it a wonderful modifier for almost any spirit,” says Natalie…

Chip Tate, founder of Balcones Distilling, now master distiller for innovation at Minden Mill Distilling, once referred to me as “the old man chasing kids off bourbon’s lawn.” He said it with love. I have been in and around the bourbon industry for 45 years. That’s what it was back then, the bourbon industry. Almost all of it was in Kentucky. Before I moved to Louisville I lived in Ohio. I worked in advertising. In Ohio’s major cities, a typical advertising agency had as its clients a bank, a savings & loan, a dairy, a bakery, a retailer or two, and an insurance company, all local businesses. There was some national work, but most of it was local. In Louisville, every ad agency had a distillery client, and cigarettes too.…

93 Bushmills The Rare Cask 30 year old Madeira Cask Irish Single Malt, 49%, $1,000 This was finished for 17 of those years in a madeira cask. Peppercorn, nutmeg, coriander, dried fig, cooked apple, caramel, and chocolate. 93 Tyrconnell 10 year old Madeira Cask Finish Irish Single Malt, 46%, $70 Aged 10 years and then finished for 3-5 months in madeira casks. Tropical and fruity, with peach, mango, cantaloupe, caramelized pineapple, honey, cream, and soft coconut. 92 Amrut Madeira Finish Indian Single Malt, 50%, $150 Limited edition. Vinous notes, orange peel, crème brûlée, honey, toasted coconut, chocolate, and lemon. 92 Blackened + Willett Kentucky Straight Madeira Cask Finished Rye, 54.8%, $140 Aged an average of 6.5 years, then finished in madeira casks for an unspecified period. Cinnamon, apple pie, babka, cranberry,…

95 Yamazaki 18 year old Mizunara 100th Anniversary Japanese Single Malt, 48%, $1,500 Layers of complexity have developed after full maturation in mizunara oak, including yellow plum, pear, sandalwood, manuka honey, incense, and cinnamon. 94 Kavalan Cask Strength Port Cask Taiwanese Single Malt, 59.4%, $250 This was fully matured in Portuguese port pipes. Dried cranberry, plum, leather, black cherry, red licorice, and vanilla essence. 93 ImpEx Collection Penderyn Blandy’s Malvasia Madeira Cask 5 year old Welsh Single Malt, 57.4%, $140 A single cask fully matured in a Malmsey cask, it’s a dry, sweet, full bodied whisky, with apple syrup, red currant, creamy toffee, rose hip, and pepper. 92 Kilchoman PX Sherry Cask Matured Scotch Single Malt, 50%, $130 Fully matured in Pedro Ximénez sherry casks from Bodega José y Miguel Martin…

New launches nowadays seem to be dominated by upscale tequilas, but there are also aged rums and artisanal gins that are worth a look. New flavors abound, and there is lots of collaboration with whisky makers, creating expressions that will likely suit the whisky lover’s palate. Goslings Family Reserve Old Rum Rye Barrel Finish, $80 RUM To make this rum, Goslings took batches of its Family Reserve Old Rum—which were aged in bourbon barrels—and finished them in first-fill rye casks for up to 3 years. Each bottle is individually numbered, and has a green wax seal. Ancho Reyes Barrica, $60 LIQUEUR Mexican chile liqueur Ancho Reyes has debuted a new cask-aged expression. Barrica starts off as Ancho Reyes Original, made from poblano chiles that are sun-dried for up to 20…

Scotland SPEYSIDE SINGLE MALT 94 Balvenie 16 year old French Oak Pineau Cask Finished, 47.6%, $175 See Editors’ Choices, page 88 93 Balvenie 21 year old PortWood, 43%, $350 Raspberry tart, strawberries, pipe tobacco, candle wax, sweet baked apple, and orange on the nose. The palate is sweet but balanced by the oak, with more berries, savory spice, and chocolate. It’s very flavorful, and completed by a long finish of red berries, well-integrated oak, and lots of spice. The sweetness is pronounced but does not go overboard, staying in balance with all else.—DF 92 Aberlour 12 year old, 40%, $50 Forest floor, dried leaves, and some light char on the nose, with hints of charcoal, drying oak tannins, and emerging notes of vanilla and banana. A sweet and lightly spiced…

These age-stated Kaiyō whiskies were initially matured in mizunara oak casks before spending 3 months at sea sailing from Japan to the UK, where they underwent secondary maturation in different casks. Kaiyō The Ramu was finished in Rhum J.M agricole casks from Martinique for 2 years, while Kaiyō The Rye underwent a 5 year secondary maturation in Knob Creek rye barrels. Master blender Jeffrey Karlovitch used a pioneering new “wet char” technique for reconditioning seasoned casks for Kaiyō The Unicorn. Residual bourbon inside untoasted used bourbon barrels was ignited to enable the whisky to gain access to untapped pockets of flavor residing deep inside the oak. 92 Kaiyō Wood Library Series The Ramu 8 year old Rum Barrel Finish, 46%, $70 The rum cask finish complements the effects of the…

THE PATRÓN APPROACH When it was first founded 35 years ago, Patrón adopted traditional, authentic tequila production techniques in the distillery: tahona and roller milling, pinewood fermentation and copper pot distillation. The brand quickly became a luxury icon and demand grew. This created a challenge: how to increase production without compromising on quality? The answer lay in the talented distillery team and their unique approach to making tequila. Instead of automating the process, Patrón replicated its traditional small-batch methods in a second distillery, built side by side with the original. This is a deliberate choice to maintain the time and labor-intensive methods that preserve tradition—and superior quality and flavor. THE BEST TEQUILA GOING INTO THE BARREL ENSURES THE BEST TEQUILA COMING OUT. TRADITION TAKES TIME After being expertly harvested by…

Patrón extends an invitation from its house to yours—welcoming you to explore, to savor, to celebrate. Every bottle of this vibrant and alluring spirit is crafted with care and steeped in tradition, embodying the culture of Mexico and her people. Whether savoring a private sip, entertaining at home, or out at a favorite restaurant or bar; sipped neat, on the rocks, or elevating a delicious cocktail, every bottle of Patrón is a journey—of time, tradition, flavor, and perfection.…

“Gentlemen, that brings us to our final piece of business for the day,” announced Giles Tennyson, the ruddy-cheeked chairman of the National Malted Barley Association (NMBA), tugging his shabby tweed jacket tightly over his ample belly, “the naming of next year’s newly approved barley strain for distilling use.” A half-hearted round of sardonic whoops and eye-rolling hurrahs went around the table as the boardroom filled with tweed-appareled members welcomed the news—not because they relished this task, far from it—but because, by reaching this point on the agenda, they were one step closer to escaping this interminably boring meeting. It had been a three-hour marathon of stultifying tedium, where the NMBA’s motley assembly of farmers, seed breeders, maltsters, and distillers had reviewed mind-boggling charts of regional crop yields, soaked up observations…

95 McCarthy’s 6 year old Oloroso Cask Finished (2023 Limited Release) American Single Malt, 56%, $120 A limited release, but here’s hoping this Oregon-based single malt maker will bring it back. Smoked meat, barbecue, charcoal, orange, bitter chocolate. 94 Redbreast Pedro Ximénez Edition Irish Single Pot Still, 46%, $86 Finished in PX casks for 12 to 22 months. Deeply fruity, red cherry, soft licorice, nutmeg, chocolate, plum, and black tea. 94 Tomintoul Cigar Malt Oloroso Sherry Cask Finish Scotch Single Malt, 43%, $130 Dark and rich, with sea air, prominent but not overwhelming smoke, hickory wood, chocolate-covered peanuts, and pleasant earthiness. 93 Angel’s Envy Oloroso Cask Finished Bourbon, 50%, $200 Aged in new charred oak and then finished for an unspecified period in oloroso casks. Flan and crème caramel, vinous notes of cherry…

96 Redbreast Kentucky Oak Irish Single Pot Still, 50.5%, $95 Aged in a combination of bourbon barrels and oloroso sherry butts, then finished for 4 months in air-dried American oak from Kentucky. Coconut, brown sugar, cherry, warm apple pie, and vanilla. 95 Dewar’s Double Double 21 year old Mizunara Oak Cask Finish Blended Scotch, 46%, $150 Citrus, lime zest, sandalwood, lemon zest, and white chocolate are the result of finishing in Japanese mizunara oak. 94 Barrell Craft Spirits Cask Finish Series Amburana Bourbon, 58.21%, $90 Finished for an unspecified period in amburana oak barrels, also known as Brazilian oak. Cinnamon spice, dark roast coffee, oat milk, cocoa powder, and chocolate-covered raisins. 94 Four Gate Japanese Mizunara Oak Finished Bourbon, 58.7%, $250 A 7 year old Kentucky bourbon that’s been finished…

Just after 12 a.m. on December 2nd, as temperatures dip below 25 degrees, the biting winter air hasn’t dampened the party in Stranahan’s Distillery parking lots in Denver. Dubbed “Snowflake Village,” it’s where more than 1,000 people have set up post in tents and RVs. All the revelers are here to purchase a bottle of the limited-edition 2023 Snowflake single malt release, a distillery-only offering that will go on sale first thing the next morning. In this frigid setting, pockets of Stranahan’s superfans, all bundled to the hilt in winter garb, roast marshmallows on open fires just outside a giant (inflatable) igloo, as a stream of musicians rotates through the igloo’s stage. The line for the official Stranahan’s bar, nestled in a corner of the igloo, is more than a…

Angel’s Envy Distillery 500 E. Main Street Angel’s Envy opened on the eastern edge of Whiskey Row back in 2016. The distillery was so popular that it soon was turning away thousands of prospective visitors each month, as it simply didn’t have the space to meet demand. That led to an $8.2 million, 13,000-square-foot expansion in 2022, doubling the distillery’s visitor capacity. The new space is airy and cathedral-esque in structure. There are multiple tours available, but the one-hour Signature Tour ($25) will take you through every step of the production process, and ends with a tasting. It’s here where you’ll get three pours of Angel’s Envy, each paired with decadent bites of locally made chocolate for the sweetest of endings. Old Forester Distilling Co. 119 W. Main Street Just…

Pat Fallon’s health was rapidly deteriorating when he reached out to Francisco Melendez in 2022. The 52 year old former Marine was in full kidney failure following a series of medical misfortunes stemming from a lung injury. With dialysis as his lifeline, “The only solution was a new kidney,” Fallon recounts, “but no one I knew was a viable donor.” To amplify his plea, Fallon tapped Melendez, founder of a Texas nonprofit and The Sinner’s Club, a whiskey group on Facebook of which Fallon was a member. Melendez raced into action, blasting Fallon’s dire situation to the entire 5,800-member group. Within minutes, a dozen offers to get tested flooded in; within weeks, five had completed the test. One, a bubbly coordinator for an audiologist and part-time bartender named Brittany McCaffety,…

The Buying Guide provides ratings of whiskies from around the world with an emphasis on new releases available for purchase in the U.S. Complete tasting notes are provided for all whiskies scoring 84 points or more (on the Whisky Advocate 100-point scale). Lower-scoring whiskies are included at the discretion of the editors, and some may appear exclusively on whiskyadvocate.com. Ratings and prices Ratings are to provide a relative comparison of quality with reference to both directly competing products and whiskies in general. Price is not a consideration when arriving at ratings. Prices shown reflect the suggested retail price or a representative retail price. Actual retail prices may vary. Whiskies sold in the U.S. have prices marked in dollars; any whisky priced in other currency is not presently available in the…

Scotland ISLAY 94 Bruichladdich Thirty, 43.2%, $2,000 Minty and floral on the nose, with dried strawberries, candle wax, lemon, lime sorbet, and sweet vanilla. On the palate it’s pleasantly soapy, with dark fruits, crème brûlée, citrus, and bitter chocolate. The finish is mid-length but delicious. Well-integrated oak intertwines flavors of marshmallow and citrus. Overall there is great complexity and plenty for the palate to explore. It makes you want to keep drinking it, for sure.—DF HIGHLANDS 94 Aberfeldy 25 year old 125th Anniversary Special Edition, 46%, $550 Black treacle, walnut, prune, malt loaf, and a touch of gingerbread on the nose, topped with cinnamon, dark chocolate, clove, peppercorn, jellied blackberry, and honey. The palate revels in blueberry, black cherry, red apple, currants, sultana, baked orange, vanilla essence, red chile, pecan pie,…

ALL NATURAL, ADDITIVE FREE Every bottle of Patrón is made from only three essential ingredients: Blue Weber agave, water, and proprietary yeast. That’s it. There are no additives or mellowing agents, known locally as abocantes, of any sort used to mimic the effects of aging or to compensate for the limited lack of complexity of taste that results from time and cost-saving production methods used by some. The mosto, the juice and fibrous pulp of the agave, extracted by the tahona wheels and uncompromisingly unadulterated, is then fermented in pinewood tanks and distilled in traditional copper pot stills. This commitment to quality is evident in the liquid—a tequila free of abocantes, unadulterated by artificial flavors or shortcuts. The culmination of this process is not just in the tequila itself, but…