Indholdsfortegnelse for September 2018 i Wilderness

YOU CAN LEARN A LOT IN A BACKCOUNTRY HUT. That’s what I thought while sitting around the dining table of Crosbies Hut, high up in the Coromandel Range. The candle-lit room was warmed by a glowing fire, and around the table sat five Kiwis, an Irish couple and my Dutch partner – a classic hut night was in the making. Brought together by chance, buoyed by the energy of a night with strangers in a hut in the forest, the conversation flowed like the rainwater which drummed on the roof. “I don’t think we have any native species,” one of the Irish trampers mentioned, while reflecting on the verdant forest that lined the tracks to the hut. And the mouths of the Kiwis dropped. “We don’t have any virgin forest…

DOC RANGERS will look a little different this summer, after a $4.73m overhaul of the uniform, the first redesign in about 20 years. The new uniforms will replace those currently worn by DOC’s 1200 rangers over the next three years. It features a new high-vis orange and a new lime and grey colour scheme alongside the traditional DOC green. They also include Māori kowhaiwhai pattern detailing. The uniforms were designed by DOC ranger Mat Nalder, who previously worked in design and procurement of outdoor gear. DOC deputy director of operations Mike Slater said the design is more fit-for-purpose, incorporating modern high-performance materials and features. The redevelopment has taken three years after staff found a previous design was inadequate, but DOC said that feedback was used to create the new and…

AN ALASKAN tourist who fell to her death on the Rabbit Pass route in Mt Aspiring National Park was well prepared and experienced, the coroner has found. Nicole Leman died after falling on the Waterfall Face in December 2015, three days into the challenging tramp. The coroner’s report into the incident, released on August 3, said Leman lost her footing at a crucial point above a steep drop and fell about 200m. She suffered multiple injuries and died at the scene. A report, produced by Mountain Safety Council (MSC) at the request of coroner A J Tutton, said it was a “genuine accident” and found Leman was adequately prepared and cautious. Leman, who was 24, was a keen tramper and was doing the pass with fellow traveller Bernhard Mueller, who…

Purple Hill guards the eastern shoreline of Lake Pearson, and is one of those ‘island summits’ unconnected to any main ranges and therefore offers a unique perspective on the landscape. From the lake shore, the hill is a picture-postcard setting and in winter is framed by ridges decked with snow. It’s a tough route up the trackless hillside, starting from Long Hill Saddle, to a broad and easy-angled shoulder at around 1450m. Ice axe and crampons may be needed in winter. Climbing the broad north ridge, first on tussock and later scree and rock, the varied topography of the landscape below becomes ever more apparent. The cones of Sugar Loaf, Og, Gog and Magog recede below and merge with the great sweep of the Waimakariri River as it surges past…

THE TORLESSE RANGE is one of the most accessible weekend destinations for Christchurch trampers. And yet, apart from perhaps climbing Mt Torlesse, Foggy and Castle Hill peaks and visiting the iconic Gap, the range usually only gets superficial attention. Climbing to the ridgeline of the Torlesse Range, this overnight trip to Broken River Hut offers fantastic variety: spectacular tops travel, a cosy hut, imposing gorge scenery and geological and historical curiosity. We parked near the DOC sign indicating the track to Avoca Homestead. A short walk and a bone-chilling crossing of Broken River and we were at the renovated homestead where a young family had cranked up the heating. But we were not lingering – already I was feeling anxious about whether we had enough time to complete the planned…

DOMINATING THE WESTERN skyline of the Waikato, Pirongia Mountain offers excellent views, rich forest, challenging terrain and a bunk for the night. Nestled in the summit ridge of the mountain, staying at Pahautea Hut is the best way to experience this colossus and the Ruapane-Mahaukura loop is a great way to get there. From the Grey Road-end, follow the Mangakara Nature Walk for 10 minutes, before branching left onto the Link Track, just after a bridged stream. The trail climbs gradually through open forest punctuated by massive rimu and totara. Gradually, the incline increases and the forest thickens. After about an hour-and-a-half, the track emerges from the bush at Ruapane, a rocky 723m peak with a trigpoint and excellent views out across the flat green Waikato Plains. From Ruapane, the…

NORTHLAND DOESN’T spring to mind as a tramping destination for most New Zealanders, who probably first think of the area for its glorious beaches. However, in the far north, beaches and tramping combine to make one of the country’s best coastal walks. The 44km Te Paki Coastal Track begins at Kapowairua/Spirits Bay, traverses around Te Rerenga Wairua/Cape Reinga, and south-westwards to Cape Maria van Diemen, before swinging south-east to reach Ninety Mile Beach. It ends at the sand dunes of Te Paki, some of the country’s most extensive. Of course, since 2011, the track has become the start of the Te Araroa Trail, now completed by hundreds of people every year. Even in winter, the weather is usually mild, and for that reason there are no huts; just basic campsites.…

The grey teal (têtê) is a native (self-introduced) dabbling species of duck. It is a nomadic bird and highly mobile, able to take advantage of changing seasons and conditions to find optimal habitats. Conservation status Native species classified as ‘not threatened’. Features The têtê is considerably smaller than a grey or mallard duck but at a distance may be confused for the latter. It is a mostly grey-brown colour with a distinct ‘mottled’ appearance. This is due to each feather on its body having a buff, beige edge. The only other colour the grey teal possesses is a pale cream on the throat, cheeks and chin. Its most outstanding feature is the bright crimson iris. Male and females look alike while immature birds have a duller eye. Call Its most…

PERFECT FOR when you want an extra special after dinner treat, this decadent mountain hot chocolate is super rich and a little goes a long way. My partner thinks it’s worth noting that for an extra sugar high, this drink is best served with a packet of gingernuts. Profile Cook time 5min Serves 2-3 Cost $3-$4 INGREDIENTS 2 cups water 60g coconut milk powder 50g dark chocolate (70% or more) 1-2 tbsp coconut sugar ¼ tsp vanilla essence Additional options: • Good pinch chilli powder (mix through at end) • Few drops peppermint essence (mix through at end) • Two cardamom pods, 1/8 tsp grated nutmeg (add at the start and remove cardamom before serving) METHOD Place water and coconut milk powder into a pot and bring to the boil,…

Rugged peaks, beech forest, glacial valleys – the features of Matukituki Valley in Mt Aspiring National Park kept drawing Gillian Crombie and her family back for decades. But on a trip with her husband in 2012, she noticed one of the valley’s most iconic features was gone – not a mountain or glacier, but a bird. “We went up to French Ridge Hut and we would always see kea there – a few would always come and try and steal your socks. But we didn’t see any at all.” Concerned, Crombie went straight to the Wanaka DOC office. “We said ‘what’s happening and what can we do?’.” Three months later, the Crombies set up the Matukituki Charitable Trust and got funding to start a trapping campaign. The trust now has…

RECENT DEVELOPMENTS in pest control mean possums could be eradicated from New Zealand by 2030, but ecologist Dr James Russell says it might not be a good idea just yet. Russell, who is associate professor of biological sciences at University of Auckland, said developments in the use of 1080 means possums can effectively be eradicated from large areas of forest, while remote monitoring of traditional traps could eradicate possums from other areas. The number of possums had already halved since the 1980s, from about 70 million to 30 million, due to concerted pest control programmes. But Russell said new 1080 techniques are now making eradication possible. “Previously, the mentality was that we can’t eradicate possums from an area because they would just come back,” Russell said. “So we were trying…

WATERFALLS SEEM to fascinate people, regardless of the fact that in a mountainous country like New Zealand, they are pretty common. Walkers like to witness the spectacle of water tumbling and roaring over a defile, while photographers enjoy capturing the flow with slow shutter speeds. Here are five thunderous waterfalls everyone can visit. 1. Tarawera Falls, Lake Tarawera Scenic Reserve These falls seemingly come from nowhere, thundering out of a cliff in two voluminous flows, to disgorge into the nearby Tarawera River. A viewing platform offers a good vantage point of the falls, accessible on an easy 20 minute track from the car park. You’ll need a permit to access the falls through private forestry roads, which can be arranged through the Kawarau i-Site or online. 2. Aniwaniwa Falls, Te…

THERE ARE SOME HUTS that you keep returning to throughout your life, not because they are especially close to home, but because they feel like home. Waikamaka Hut is one such hut. For a hut that offers a multitude of tramping options to explore the rugged interior of the ranges, it is easily accessible in a weekend and the terrain along the way is varied, challenging and never dull. The car park was full when we arrived, but we figured most people would be heading to the popular Sunrise Hut rather than trudging up the Waipawa River, which was our plan. We left the farming landscape behind at the first bend in the river, which was running low. That didn’t prevent one of the kids falling in. Waipawa Forks Hut…

WITH SOME RELIEF, I suddenly spied it. Wet, itchy, puffy and punctured after enduring a crossing of Baton Saddle, I resolutely sloshed across Baton River – hardly more than a stream at 930m – when Flanagans Hut appeared through a clearing in the bush ahead. By then, our weary party of four had been out for six nights in Kahurangi National Park and our crossing of Baton Saddle from the Leslie River (north side) had proved somewhat more of a trial than we’d expected. We should’ve paid more attention to the little sign at the bottom of Wilkinson Creek marking the way to Baton Saddle. Someone had carved the word ‘horror’ into it. Another knowing soul had added in pen ‘total’. That morning the weather had packed up, so we…

Sometimes the best trips are born out of someone advising you not to do it. I don’t mean in a safety sense – safety is no accident, after all – but in the sense of knowing there’s an obstacle and being able to overcome it. I’d long been captivated by the idea of doing the Tongariro Alpine Crossing in winter and by moonlight. Friends reckoned that under a full moon, the snow lights up and you barely need a headlamp. With a starry sky and a lack of crowds there were all the ingredients to cook up the trip of a lifetime. The obstacle? Friends reckoned it was the coldest thing they’d ever done. “It’s brutal,” said one. “I wasn’t prepared for just how brutal, and I was freezing the…

THE DARK of night in a rain-sodden valley is not the time to discover that your tent isn’t up to the rigours of the weather. Here’s a few handy tips to ensure your tent stays up – and you stay dry – the whole night through. Know your rating Tent fabric comes with a hydrostatic head rating, which is a measure of how waterproof it is. A higher rating translates to a more waterproof tent. A tent with a 2000mm rating would be fine for camping in fair conditions, whereas fabric rated to 5000mm is more likely to keep you dry in a wild Fiordland storm. Check before you leave Get into the habit of inspecting your tent before each trip. Be sure to pack the guy ropes and a…

1. Clothing I always pack thin merino layers to wear against my skin. My favourite midweight layers include a Macpac Pisa jacket, Macpac Pulsar insulated jacket and a Patagonia Houdini. On cold packrafting trips I wear a thin fleece onesie under my drysuit. 2. Sleeping I use a Macpac Epic 400 sleeping bag on most summer trips, plus a lightweight liner bag. I’ve used lots of different inflatable mats, but the Sea to Summit air sprung mat is the only one that hasn’t delaminated. 3. Pack I use an 85L Hyperlite Mountain Gear pack – the Porter 5400. It’s made of Dyneema which is super lightweight (1300g) and really durable. A key advantage on packrafting trips is that it rolls up and can be stuffed into the raft. 4. Packraft…

Fit and width The toe box should have a thumb-width of space in front of the longest toe. The overall fit should be snug – not tight – across the arch and forefoot. MIDSOLE Most midsoles are EVA, a polymer designed to handle the stress and impact of walking over uneven ground. Easy-flex models are more comfortable on level ground and when moving fast. Stiffer shoes are better for rockier terrain and allow more precise footholds when climbing and scrambling. Upper Most hiking shoes are made from a combination of leather and synthetic material, which makes them light and relatively cheap. Heel A heel counter supports and stabilises the foot, preventing heel lift. A shock absorber will reduce heel strike. OUTSOLE Wide-spaced and deep lugs are designed to shed mud…

Upper Usually thick leather uppers with few seams that offer support and structural integrity. They may require extra wear-in time, but when cared for properly, the leather will mould to the foot for years of comfort and performance. A lighter grade of leather around the ankle reduces pressure on Achilles tendons. TONGUE Padded gusseted tongues (a bellows tongue) prevent water and debris from entering. Once tightened, the gussets and tongue should fold together to rest comfortably against the shin. A lacing stud on the tongue holds it in position. Laces Laces should flow smoothly to provide even tension around the foot. Lacing that runs all the way to the toe is becoming common and provides a more comfortable and flexible fit. Durable metal eyelets and lugs are the norm. Ankle…

A NEW $1.8M HUT will be built on the Milford Track to replace the aging Mintaro Hut. Fiordland operations manager Greg Lind said the hut, the second that trampers reach on the track, will be built in 2020 to open for the 2020/21 season. It will be about two kilometres further up the Clinton Valley from the existing hut, just past the the start of the climb to the Mackinnon Pass. Lind said the site of Mintaro Hut was prone to rockfall and the hut was at the end of its life. “I first walked the track in 1987 and it had just been built then,” Lind recalled. “It’s taken a hammering in the alpine environment over the years and it’s past its use-by date.” The new hut would be…

CASEY HUT in Arthur’s Pass National Park is set to be replaced next year, after the hut burned down in 2015. The 16-bunk lockwood hut was a popular weekend destination and a gateway to backcountry trips like the Casey-Binser Saddle loop. DOC North Canterbury operations manager Kingsley Timpson said the department is investigating partnering with a private sponsor to build a hut on the site, which would double as a biosecurity hut for staff working with the critically endangered orange-fronted parakeet. If a sponsor isn’t forthcoming, the department will shift the 10-bunk Poulter Hut down-valley to the Casey Hut site. Poulter Hut was built in 2003 and provides access to Lake Minchin. But Timpson said relocating Poulter was the only cost-effective option if further funding couldn’t be found. The hut…

ONE OF NEW ZEALAND’S top freeskiers has carved down the east face of the country’s highest mountain in what he has called the highlight of his career. The daring descent of Aoraki/Mt Cook features in the film The Sky Piercer, directed by Jason Hancox. The film premiered at this year’s New Zealand Mountain Film Festival and won the Hiddleston/MacQueen Award for best Kiwi-made film. Sam Smoothy achieved the feat with world-renowned big-mountain snowboarder Xavier de la Rue and Austrian pro freeskier Nadine Wallner. The trio made an early morning ascent to the summit ridge, where they exchanged crampons for skis and rocketed back to Plateau Hut. Smoothy came second in the Freeride World Tour in 2014, but says skiing Aoraki’s east face was his greatest achievement to date. “Mt Cook…

A CEDAR SWIM Wren Creek Hot Springs, Westland The walk to these popular pools is relatively easy, at least by West Coast standards. From the road-end, a track through grassy farmland provides a decent hour’s warm-up along an old logging tramline. A good sense of balance and footwork is required to negotiate some serious boulder-hopping beside the Toaroha River. Climb the low rock step before entering thick forest. Zig-zag up a steep spur to bypass the gorge below. A couple of V-shaped incisions in the valley wall must be crossed, before the slow sidle down to the river. A very long swingbridge gives access to the two Cedar Flats huts. Towering mountain cedars preside over both the historic and newer hut at Cedar Flats. Both are popular over long weekends,…

CLIMBING FROM THE shore of Lake Wakatipu and over the Hector Mountains, the trip to Lake Hope is a classic alpine adventure, just a short drive from Queenstown From the car park just north of Wye Creek, climb up a 4WD farm track on Loch Linnhe Station, which soon reaches 1100m with panoramic views of Lake Wakatipu, the Eyre Mountains and Queenstown. Occasional cairns indicated a rising traverse into Two Mile Creek and eventually this opened out into a beautiful snow-covered basin (and we were there in summer). We crossed the creek to have a bite to eat at characterful Two Mile Hut. This stone hut was built around the turn of the 20th century and has seen multiple restorations. It’s housed musterers, trampers, climbers and ski-tourers. It would make…

WHEN MY HUSBAND wanted to go overnight tramping for his 40th birthday, along with our two kids and three other families, I was hesitant. The last time I had slept even semi-wild was several years ago on a multi-day hike in the Bavarian Alps where at each stop there were hot showers, fully catered meals and beer flown in by helicopter. There were also no children in tow. For this trip, there would be six. But the trip to Turere Lodge proved a great introduction to trail walking for kids, an excellent way to mark a 40th, and the perfect welcome back to tramping in New Zealand. Turere Lodge sits atop a flat, sheltered outcrop overlooking the Orongorongo River, surrounded by forest. It’s an idyllic location at the end of…

MANY TRAMPERS struggle on downhill sections because their joints and muscles work harder to control the impact of stepping down. We can also feel pain from old injuries, imbalanced muscles and wear and tear on the joints or arthritis. Many of those things you can’t change, but you can learn to manage them. Stronger legs and walking poles can help, but ultimately you have to adapt the way you move. If you get pain in your knees, thighs, calves or feet when going downhill, try these tips: → Turn sideways to step down → Down climb or step down backwards → Use hands and arms to lower your body down → Take several steps instead of one giant step or jumping down → Try different ways of placing your foot…

IT’S NOT THAT HARD to make a cheesecake in a billy, all you need are the right ingredients and a little time. This Mt Arthur Cheesecake was made at Flora Hut on Mt Arthur and we ate every bit of it. Most non-bake cheesecakes are made with fresh cream cheese (or mascarpone) fillings, into which is beaten fresh cream, sugar and various fruit flavourings. There are plenty of good recipes available but most are just a little too difficult to prepare under camping conditions. That’s why I recommend using a commercially prepared packet-equivalent for this recipe. INGREDIENTS 1 packet of cheesecake mix Butter and milk powder 250ml long life cream for topping METHOD You can make a cheesecake in the billy, but it is easier to cut up and serve…

At the Fox Glacier Guiding base the (slightly) older women clad in Kiwi classic shorts over long johns stood out among the queues of puffer-jacketed, heli-hiking tourists. Our guides said little, just politely got on with gearing us up with crampons and harnesses for our Chancellor Dome ‘expedition’. Only later, after the climb, sipping a plunger coffee outside historic Chancellor Hut, kea screeching on the roof and melting chunks of ice crashing and thundering in the glacier below, did they tell us what they’d been thinking. “Yeah, we did note your ages on the booking form but as soon as we saw you and what you were wearing we figured you’d had a bit of experience,” said guide Rich Ross. “It’s been good to be guiding New Zealanders,” added Cam…

UPPERS Most often made from super light synthetic materials and featuring mesh panels or a breathable lining so feet don’t get too hot. Toe box A reinforced toe box will protect toes from bumps. Heel to toe drop This is the height difference between the heel and toe and can be anywhere from 15mm-0mm. The less heel drop, the more minimalist the shoe will be and those unused to them will need time to adapt. Outsole Wide-spaced, dirt-shedding lugs are common. But don’t just look for shoes with the most lugs – manufacturers use a variety of rubber compounds to provide traction while also offering a long-wearing tread. MIDSOLE This cushions the foot on landing and often includes a plate that protects feet from stones and other trail debris. Fit…

Upper Leather or a combination of leather or suede with synthetic panels. They are soft and supple and should handle abrasion from rocks and other trail obstacles. LACING AND HARDWARE Fabric or metal eyelets are used with lugs at the ankle. ANKLE CUFF  Boot height is to just above the ankle, reducing the chance of water and trail debris entering the boot. Higher cuffs offer ankle support and are softened for comfort. Midsole Three-season boots are designed to flex easily and come with an EVA midsole with a medial post to prevent twisting. The shank is not overly stiff and generally only covers a portion of the sole. Outsole Sticky rubber compounds with mud-shedding lugs offer good grip on most track surfaces. Toe box This should be stiffened or protected…

Warmth This is dictated by the upper and insulation of the boot. A fully waterproof membrane (along with high quality gaiters and socks) will help deal with prolonged periods in snow. UPPERS Some boots have one-piece leather uppers but there are also multi-panel synthetic/leather options which work just as well. Consider the thickness of the upper – it should be between 2-3mm. Rand A full rand running around the base of the upper protects the boot from ice, scree and moraine. Stiffness The shank is commonly made from nylon, fibreglass or Kevlar and has little or no flex over both the length and width of the boot. This provides a stable platform in rugged terrain and while climbing, but can mean less comfort on flat terrain. CRAMPON COMPATIBILITY If the…