Reading Hazel Phillip's story on Te Tatau Pounamu wilderness area (Tongariro's Bermuda Triangle, p44), it's pleasing to see that even in this, one of the busiest national parks in the country, remote experiences are available.
And that is one reason why Tongariro is perhaps my favourite national park. Even without the wilderness area, it's one of the easiest places in which to go off track and find your own adventure. Because the park is at such high altitude and much of the terrain, especially on the Northern Circuit route, is above the bushline, you've got ample sightlines. With Ngāuruhoe and Ruapehu ever present, it's difficult to become truly lost.
I've had a few remarkable journeys in the park where I've eschewed tracks. The best was trekking down Ruapehu's northern Waihohonu…
