Indholdsfortegnelse for June 30, 2015 i Wine Spectator

Visit www.winespectator.com/063015 to find links to all of the following resources. Free resources for all of our WineSpectator.com readers: LIGHTS, CAMERA, POUR! 2015 VIDEO CONTEST Creative with a video camera? Submit your shorts to Wine Spectator’s annual Video Contest and you could win great prizes. Our editors will select the finalists and post them on WineSpectator.com, where viewers will vote for the winning video. Entry deadline is Sept. 7. Check out the rules and previous years’ finalists online. NEW! UNFILTERED NEWSLETTER Sign up for our free, mobile-friendly e-mail about wine in pop culture. Get the latest scoop on how wine intersects with the worlds of film, TV, music, sports and more, de-livered every other week. FATHER’S DAY Want to really impress Dad? Get help from some of the coun-try’s best…

Joseph Phelps, whose namesake winery pioneered a trademark Napa style of ripe, rich Cabernet, died April 15 at his home in St. Helena, Calif. He was 87. Phelps spent a lifetime building things, first as a contractor in Colorado and then, beginning in the 1970s, as a vintner in Napa Valley, converting a cattle ranch into what became Joseph Phelps Vine-yards. He made his mark on the wine world with a Bordeaux-inspired blend he branded Insignia, a name he came up with one morning while shaving. “Joe was a businessman and a real vint-ner—all too rare these days,” said Chuck Wagner of Caymus. “Joe brought competition to Napa Valley in a significant way. He was one of the first vintners to enter the brave new world of the ripe and…

INSIGHT INTO THE U.S. MARKET FOR WORLD WINERIES Vinexpo, held this year June 14 to 18, is one of the largest exhibitions in the world for the wine business, with more than 30,000 brands represented by 2,400 exhibitors from 44 nations. In 2015, the organizers are celebrating the U.S. as Vinexpo’s first-ever Country of Honor. Wine Spectator has partnered with Vinexpo to illustrate the growing role of the U.S. in the global wine business by hosting two events. A walk-around tasting will feature 30 companies that own and operate wineries both in the U.S. and abroad; producers will present wines that demonstrate how their winemaking philosophies are embodied in different terroirs. Furthermore, a conference will present a panel of U.S. importers, distributors, retailers and restaurateurs, including Annette Alvarez-Peters, alcoholic beverage…

It’s a match made in gastronomic heaven: a wine-maker and a food writer. For Doug and Janet Fletcher, of Napa, a kitchen renovation was a small price to pay for the rewards they reap daily from a life of food and wine. Appropriately, the couple first met over dinner. At the time, in 1981, Doug worked at Martin Ray winery in Santa Rosa; Janet cooked at Chez Panisse and moonlighted as a restaurant critic. The occasion of their meeting was a double date—but Janet and Doug were on the date with other people. Doug fondly recalls the early days of their courtship: He would stop by Chez Panisse, and Janet would cook for him. They married in 1984. As Janet transitioned to full-time food writing, she found that she could…

Vintners’ growing use of twist-offs validates their reliability and reflects their acceptance by consumers It’s a slowly turning tide, but attitudes about twist-off closures are changing. New Zealand bottles 90 percent of its wines under twist-offs (which I find a friendlier term than screwcaps), and Australia is at about 70 percent. Many U.S. vintners are gaining confidence in twisties for Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling and rosé, wines that are typically consumed soon after purchase. Other categories will likely follow suit. (The fact is that most wines are consumed quickly.) The one area where there remains real resistance is ageworthy reds, but I expect it’s only a matter of time before people’s opinions change here too. Vintners’ growing use of twist-offs validates their reliability and reflects their acceptance by consumers. And as…

The first impression is the fruit—rich, mouthfilling, concentrated fruit. Domaine Leroy wines are naturally concentrated because they come from low-yielding vines, so nothing seems forced or overbearing. They typically show beautiful balance, freshness, layers of complexity and length. Furthermore, these wines clearly express their respective sites. This is extremely important to Lalou Bize-Leroy. To achieve this goal, she places equal emphasis on what happens below the ground as well as above it. That is why, she says, she farms biodynamically: to reflect the identity of the land, but also to foster the most efficient photosyn-thesis of the sun’s energy by the vines. The wines age extremely well. In order to age well, a wine must be born that way, maintains Bize-Leroy. The low yields, and thus the natural concentration of…

98 Altesino Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli 2010 $125 ITALY A stunning red, delivering peony, strawberry, cherry and mineral flavors, accented by notes of wild herbs. Intense and deep, with great purity and elegance, a firmly wrought structure and a long fin-ish. The harmony between fruit, tannins and acidity should allow this to age beautifully. Best from 2019 through 2036. 1,300 cases made.—B.S. Buying Guide cover photograph by Consorzio Colli Orientali del Friuli e Ramandolo. 96 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino 2010 $129 ITALY Effusive aromas of incense, green olive, sweet strawberry and cherry, licorice and leather mark this structured version. The tannins are on the beefy side, but this finishes long, with enough fruit and spice for balance. Best from 2018 through 2032. 5,500 cases made.—B.S.…

89 Rivera Castel del Monte Rupìcolo 2013 $11 ITALY Red and black fruit mixes with star anise, fresh, loamy earth, espresso and dried marjoram accents in this minerally red. Sculpted tannins impart grip on the moderate finish. Drink now through 2023. 13,000 cases made.—A.N. 88 Cline Zinfandel Lodi 2013 $12 CALIFORNIA Bright aromas of raspberry and wildflower open to lively, easygoing flavors of cherry, dill and white pep-per. Drink now through 2020. 92,980 cases made.—T.F. 88 Tormaresca Puglia Neprica 2013 $12 ITALY This creamy red takes a modern tack, with mocha and spice accents to the pureed boysenberry fruit. Bright and balanced, with a lightly chewy finish of moderate length. Negroamaro, Primitivo and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2018. 1,400 cases imported.—A.N. 87 Bogle Zinfandel California Old Vine 2013 $11…

GERMANY Riesling Kabinett / Mosel 92 Dr. H. Thanisch (VDP) Riesling Kabinett Mosel Berncasteler Doctor 2013 $50 Unctuous, with a lively spiciness to the rich flavors of baked apple, dried apricot and peach cobbler. Fresh acidity supports the lush finish, which is airy yet powerful. Drink now through 2022. 300 cases made.—K.M. 91 Reichsgraf von Kessel-statt Riesling Kabinett Mosel Piesporter Goldtröpfchen 2013 $26 Taut, powerful and quite dry, offering impressive acidity behind the green apple, salted almond and ripe citrus flavors. This features crystalline minerality on the delicately spiced finish. Drink now. 540 cases made.—K.M. 91 Dr. Loosen Riesling Kabinett Mosel Erdener Treppchen 2013 $28 Rich and fruity, with peach, dried apricot and white currant flavors. Minerally midpal-ate, this finishes pure and vibrant, with lots of fresh savori-ness. Drink now…

CALIFORNIA Chardonnay 95 Kongsgaard Chardonnay Napa Valley The Judge 2012 $175 See Highly Recommended, page 91. 94 Aubert Chardonnay Sonoma Coast CIX 2013 $90 Richly aromatic, offering a riveting mix of peach and citrus blossom flavors, with white peach, lemon, grapefruit, green apple and honeydew notes. Ends with a kiss of wet stone and toasty oak so subtle you have to pay attention to catch it. Drink now. 850 cases made.—J.L. 94 Kongsgaard Chardonnay Napa Valley 2012 $85 A dazzling effort that combines intensity with purity of flavor, depth, focus and persistence, offering a core of juicy apple, honeydew, citrus and meringue flavors, with vibrant tannins. Shows a hint of toasty oak on the finish, where this gains a measure of elegance and finesse. Drink now through 2021. 1,600 cases…

DR. VINNY Dear Dr. Vinny, What is the origin of white Zinfandel? I heard that it was made by accident and want to know if this is true, or just a modern-day myth. —Sue, Michigan Dear Sue, Even though rosé, blush and pale red wines have been made for centuries, white Zinfandel as we know it was invented in the early 1970s by Bob Trinchero at California’s Sutter Home winery, and yes, it started as a mistake. Trinchero had been making a dry version of a white Zin, but then a batch stopped fermenting. It’s known as “stuck fermentation,” when not all the sugar gets converted into alcohol, so the wine remains a bit sweet. A vintner can try to get the fermentation going again by inoculating it with more…

BELLA ITALIA No country matches the diversity of Italy when it comes to wine. Here are two well-priced Brunellos from the superb 2010 vintage, along with some excellent values from the southern regions of Puglia and Sicily LA COLOMBINA Brunello di Montalcino 2010 (95, $50) Powerful, vibrant; cherry, plum, spice, earth, mineral PODERE LA VIGNA Brunello di Montalcino 2010 (94, $45) Cherry, plum, licorice, saline; burly, savory TENUTE GIROLAMO Puglia Conte Giangi-rolamo 2011 (91, $23) Rich; eucalyptus, chocolate pudding, spice, boysenberry CEUSO Nero d’Avola Terre Siciliane Scurati 2013 (89, $17) Candied black raspberry, cassis, star anise, graphite, cocoa powder; supple COLLI DELLA MURGIA Puglia Selvato 2012 (89, $18) Brambly berry, herb, smoke, mineral, spice; well-knit TENUTE GIROLAMO Primitivo di Manduria Monte dei Cocci 2011 (89, $12) Aromatic, silky, rich; plum…

Burgundy is no longer the insular, provincial culture that it was even 30 years ago. It now belongs to the world VOLNAY, France— Guillaume d’Angerville is troubled. Not upset, mind you. But concerned and disquieted. Heir to the famous Burgundy estate of Domaine Marquis d’Angerville, he is no ordinary Burgundian winegrower, not after a lucrative 20-year career as a mergers-and-acquisitions guy with the investment banking house JPMorgan Chase. That noted, he’s got Burgundy in his blood. His father, Jacques, who died in 2003, was one of the pillars of the winegrowing world in Burgundy. Guillaume returned to his roots with surpassing ease after retiring from the banking world to direct the family estate. So why is he troubled? “I’m concerned about the potential, even likely, dissolution of family estates here…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world and the results of special tastings reported on in greater depth elsewhere in the issue. Complete tasting notes are provided for all new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Additional reviews appear on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. If no reviewer’s initials appear, the wine was tasted by a panel of Wine Spectator editors. How We Do the Tastings Wine Spectator editors taste approximately 20,000 wines each year. Wines…

ARGENTINA Malbec & Blends 91 Familia Zuccardi Aluvional Vista Flores Mendoza 2012 $90 Plush and rich-tasting, with concentrated aromas and flavors of blackberry, dark plum and dark currant. Creamy midpalate, with mouthfilling dark chocolate and spice notes. Drink now through 2020. 360 cases made.—K.M. 91 Familia Zuccardi Finca Canal Uco Paraje Altamira Mendoza 2012 $120 A muscular red, with lots of power to the blackberry, dark plum and dark currant flavors, accented by notes of black olive and mocha. The richly spiced finish features dark chocolate and pepper. Drink now through 2021. 75 cases made.—K.M. 90 Altos Las Hormigas Malbec Mendoza Paraje Altamira 2012 $40 A taut and juicy red, with well-focused flavors of red berry, plum, cedar and sandalwood. Silky tannins show midpalate, delivering luscious red raspberry accents on…

Readers respond to recent accusations that there are unsafe levels of arsenic in some California wines. Associate editor Ben O’Donnell reported on the lawsuit (online, March 19), which claims California wineries “produce, manufacture and/or distribute wine in California that contains inorganic arsenic in amounts far in excess of what is allowed in drinking water.” Associate editor Mitch Frank argues (online, April 17) that it is illogical to hold wine and water to the same standards in terms of arsenic content. What is so difficult to understand about this? Arsenic is in the soil and ground water. Naturally. Things that grow from the ground, especially food crops that soak up a lot of water, contain arsenic. The amount of arsenic in rice is gener-ally much higher than the amount found in…

Wine Spectator’s yearly video con-test is back, allowing wine fans to blend their passions of vino and video. Anyone can enter (as long as you’re 21 or older), whether you’re a wine lover or in the wine business, a rapper or lawyer, a comic or chef. You do not need to be a pro filmmaker! Just make sure to entertain, educate or warm our hearts. The contest offers both prizes and bragging rights. Finalists’ videos are featured on www.winespectator.com, where popular vote will determine the grand prize winner. • Grand Prize: Two full passes to the Wine Spectator New York Wine Experience, where the winning video will be featured and the filmmaker introduced on stage. • Finalist Prize: A pair of tickets to a Wine Spectator Grand Tasting featuring 200-plus…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 95 Kongsgaard Chardonnay Napa Valley The Judge 2012 $175 CALIFORNIA Ultrarich, this shows what oak can add to a wine, brimming with hints of butterscotch, ripe pear, fig, tangerine and nectarine. COLLECTIBLE 96 Valdicava Brunello di Montalcino 2010 $129 ITALY Effusive aromas of incense, green olive, strawberry, cherry, licorice and leather mark this structured version, which finishes long. SMART BUY 91 Bodegas Franco-Españolas Tempranillo Rioja Bordón Reserva 2009 $15 SPAIN Light, fresh and focused, this traditional red offers harmonious flavors of dried cherry, tea, licorice and spice. BEST VALUE 87 Jacob’s Creek Pinot Grigio South Eastern Australia Classic 2014 $8 AUSTRALIA Light and refreshing, with grapefruit and pear flavors on a polished frame. IN THIS ISSUE’S BUYING GUIDE You’ll find 26 classic wines and more than 300 outstanding…

When it comes to Bordeaux, I rely on my own axiom: The best wines don’t always come from the best vintages There are lots of axioms when it comes to wine. August makes the wine, for example. Or small crops make great vintages. Or old vines make the best wines. There’s some truth in every cliché, but there are also exceptions to every rule. When it comes to judging new wines from Bordeaux, I rely on my own axiom: The best wines don’t always come from the best vintages. Granted, this one might seem a bit counterintuitive, but bear with me. It’s not easy to make an overall assessment of a given vintage, especially for Bordeaux, France’s largest AOC. But when you taste hundreds of wines from a particular harvest,…

91 Bodegas Franco-Españolas Tempranillo Rioja Bordón Reserva 2009 $15 SPAIN Light, fresh and focused, this traditional red offers harmonious flavors of dried cherry, tea, licorice and spice. Well-focused, with modest structure and good balance. Not muscular, but shows intensity and length. Drink now through 2022. 30,000 cases made.—T.M. 91 Feudo di Santa Croce Primitivo di Manduria LXXIV 2013 $22 ITALY A rich red in a modern style, this offers supple, well-knit tannins and stylish hints of vanilla, mocha and graphite, accenting the ripe plum sauce and plump cherry fruit. Well-spiced, ending with a lingering, mineral-tinged finish. Drink now through 2025. 8,000 cases made.—A.N. 90 Dry Creek Zinfandel Sonoma County Heritage Vines 2013 $20 CALIFORNIA This zesty Zin is loaded with lively fruit, with floral raspberry and pepper aromas leading to…

Burgundy / Côte de Beaune 91 Bruno Colin St.-Aubin Le Charmois 2012 $60 Lemon cake, citrus blossom and hazelnut flavors mingle in this sleek, stylish version. Silky, building to a complex and layered aftertaste. Just needs a little time to integrate the oak. Best from 2016 through 2023. 8 cases imported.—B.S. 91 Domaine de la Vougeraie Savigny-lès-Beaune 2012 $65 Intense aromas of peach, apple and spice set the pace, while a lemon note persists underneath. Focused from beginning to end, with a balanced, harmonious feel. Fine length. Drink now through 2022. 6 cases imported.—B.S. 90 Alex Gambal Beaune Les Grèves 2012 $46 Ripe and juicy, exuding cherry, raspberry, herb and mineral flavors on a slim frame, with fine intensity and length. Offers a slightly chewy finish. Best from 2017 through…

NEW ZEALAND Sauvignon Blanc 93 Greywacke Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2014 $23 See Highly Recommended, page 91. 90 Saint Clair Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Pioneer Block 20 Cash Block 2014 $28 Fresh-cut grass and lemongrass notes jump out of the glass, with a core of lemon, lime and green apple flavors. Fresh, smooth and refreshing. Fresh jalapeño and passion fruit details chime in on the finish. Drink now. 2,000 cases made.—M.W 89 Giesen Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2014 $15 Crisp, light-bodied, intense and refreshing, offering a beam of lime-centered citrus flavors that show a touch of grassy green notes, with passion fruit and peppery floral tones on the finish. Drink now. 200,000 cases made.—M.W 88 Babich Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2014 $15 Smooth and fresh, with peach and nectarine notes up front and a…

Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 93 Cayuse Camaspelo Walla Walla Valley 2012 $80 Fresh and expressive, supple and round, with juicy red berry and spice flavors, hinting at sage and floral notes as the finish lingers enticingly. Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2022. 335 cases made.—H.S. 92 Cayuse The Lovers Walla Walla Valley 2011 $90 Ripe and open-textured, with expressive cherry, cassis and floral aromas and flavors that weave together into a harmonious whole, lingering enticingly on the polished finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Drink now through 2022. 200 cases made.—H.S. 91 Carden Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2012 $50 Gravelly undertones add distinction to the cherry and spice flavors in this savory style. The finish opens up nicely, persisting gently. Drink now through 2020. 750 cases made.—H.S. 91 Gorman…