Indholdsfortegnelse for July 31, 2018 i Wine Spectator

We love Chardonnay! Americans drink nearly 840 million bottles of it every year. Pinot Grigio, our second choice in white wine, falls a long way behind, at 348 million bottles. What makes Chardonnay so popular? In large part, its extraordinary versatility. American wine drinkers believe that variety is the spice of life—we are curious and adventurous and appreciate diversity as one of wine’s greatest strengths. And Chardonnay, more than almost any other grape, can deliver wines in a broad range of styles. Winemakers are willing and able to rise to this challenge, and for many of them, Chardonnay is the perfect vehicle. The grape is fantastically responsive—its character can change dramatically depending on soil type, weather patterns and, of course, winemaking techniques. In California, Chardonnay is thriving the entire length…

“They say you shouldn’t look a gift horse in the mouth, but this horse came with a pretty mean kick,” said Mike Officer, co-owner of the small Carlisle winery in Sonoma. Like many of his peers, he expected last year’s tax-cuts package to deliver … tax cuts. The law included significant federal excise tax reductions on alcohol for both small and large wineries. But language in the bill complicated matters. The Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB), the federal agency in charge of alcohol regulation, has announced a temporary solution, but headaches remain. The Tax Cuts and Jobs Act, signed by President Donald Trump on Dec. 22, 2017, included a separate bill, the Craft Beverage Modernization Act, as an amendment. This bill rewrote the excise-tax code by scrapping…

For more than 15 years, winegrowers and vintners across California have been striving to cut down on pesticides, reduce water and energy use, increase ecological diversity on their land, improve working conditions for their employees and support their local communities. As a result of these efforts, nearly a quarter of the state’s vineyard acres and well over 125 wineries, from some of the biggest players to boutique producers, have been certified sustainable by independent third parties. Yet if you looked at a bottle in a shop, you’d often find little indication that a wine was sustainable. Consumers have been able to pick out wines with organic and biodynamic certifications by their logos, but some key sustainability certifications haven’t appeared on labels. That is changing, as California’s largest sustainable wine program…

Around about the age of 8, little Kurt Dammeier decided the cinnamon toast just wasn’t cutting it. Determined to do something about it, he made a slurry of cinnamon, sugar and butter, slathered it on for a thicker layer with more intense flavor—and, voila, he’d built himself a better breakfast. “I’ve always been a super-aggressive home chef,” says Dammeier. “I like bold flavors and I create recipes so I can cook what I like to eat.” After graduating from Washington State in 1982, Dammeier shelved his culinary ambitions for 16 years to usher his family’s printing company into the digital age. The business expanded from $2 million to $90 million in annual sales before it was sold in 1998. With the proceeds, he embarked on his second act, as a…

“Adam and I live a very packed life,” says Tamera Mowry-Housley. The 40-year-old actress and co-host of Fox talk show The Real doesn’t have just one day job. Neither does her husband, Fox News senior correspondent Adam Housley, 45. They are co-owners, with Adam’s parents, Art and Judy, brother Arik, and Arik’s wife, Hannah, of Housley’s Century Oak Winery in Lodi, Calif., and parents to Aden, 5, and Ariah, 3. Adam and Tamera split their time between Los Angeles and Suisun Valley, near their winery and Napa vineyard. “We just love that area,” Adam, who was born and raised in Yountville, says of the still largely undeveloped Suisun. “It’s kind of where Napa was when I was a kid.” So how do you carve out space for a life that’s…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 94 Kongsgaard Chardonnay Napa Valley 2015 $100 CALIFORNIA Nicely oaky and very rich, casting a smoky, toasty aura, with butterscotch flavors that hang with you through the finish. COLLECTIBLE 94 Leonetti Reserve Walla Walla Valley 2015 $150 WASHINGTON This red pairs great structure with richness and polish, offering expressive blackberry, allspice and bay leaf flavors. Cabernet Sauvignon blend. SMART BUY 92 Castello di Gabbiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2013 $22 ITALY A lean and firmly structured style, this red is saturated with cherry, currant, almond and salty mineral notes. BEST VALUE 90 Grove Mill Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley 2017 $15 NEW ZEALAND Tangy peach, mango and green apple flavors are intense and focused in this white, with accents of lemongrass and fresh ginger. IN THIS ISSUE’S BUYING GUIDE You’ll…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. If no reviewer’s initials appear, the wine was tasted by a panel of Wine Spectator editors. James Laube California Harvey Steiman At large Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California, Argentina, Chile Bruce Sanderson Italy, Burgundy, Austria James Molesworth Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Loire Valley, Port, South Africa MaryAnn Worobiec California, Australia,…

Malbec & Blends 94 Matervini Malbec Luján de Cuyo Finca Perdriel 2015 $90 See Highly Recommended, page 103. 93 Matervini Malbec Mendoza Piedras Viejas El Challao-Las Heras 2015 $150 Suave and filled with lively flavors of red currant, plum and cherry that are backed by fresh acidity. The rich, juicy finish features inky notes and firm tannins. Drink now through 2024. 49 cases made.—K.M. 93 Matervini Malbec Salta Valles Calchaquíes Antes Andes 2015 $55 Rich and pure-tasting, with concentrated raspberry, cherry and dark plum flavors that are supported by crisp acidity. The minerally finish shows notes of slate and spice. Drink now through 2024. 187 cases made.—K.M. 92 Matervini Malbec Cafayate Valley Alteza 2015 $90 A well-sculpted and refined red, offering dried savory and coffee bean notes to the ripe…

Riesling 95 Ökonomierat Rebholz Riesling Qualitätswein Dry Pfalz Im Sonnenschein GG 2016 $100 An impressive Riesling, with a smoky and floral frame surrounding the core of kumquat fruit, bergamot, yellow apple and fleur de sel. Wax aromas follow as this unravels, displaying this wine’s full complexity. Shows ample acidity for balance as this glides to a long aftertaste of melon and mineral. Approachable now with the right food, but this will only get better. Best from 2020 through 2032. 200 cases made.—A.Z. 94 Ökonomierat Rebholz Riesling Qualitätswein Dry Pfalz Kastanienbusch GG 2016 $120 Floral, round and rich-tasting, with laser-precise acidity keeping this intact and harmonious. Very attractive, showing wonderful energy throughout. Mineral elements emerge midpalate and are carried to the balanced, integrated and refreshing finish. You can almost drink this…

94 Quinta do Crasto Touriga Nacional Douro 2015 $80 See Highly Recommended, page 103. 90 João Cabral de Almeida Alvarinho Minho Camaleao 2017 $20 This fresh white is light-bodied but shows concentration, with creamy apple, spice and kumquat notes. Underpinnings of floral and mineral add elegance to the long finish. Drink now. 500 cases imported.—G.S. 90 Cortes de Címa Alentejo White 2016 $22 This sleek, medium-bodied white offers glazed peach and mango sorbet flavors, with focused honeysuckle and mineral undertones. Baking spice and herb notes echo on the finish. Drink now through 2020. 1,380 cases made.—G.S. 90 Real Companhia Velha Douro Quinta dos Aciprestes Grande Reserva 2014 $75 Full-bodied, with concentrated glazed raspberry, plum pudding and brambly fruit flavors matched to spice and mocha accents. Floral and mineral details cast…

Pinot Noir 92 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Ælian 2015 $42 Well-knit and refined, with floral raspberry, crushed rock and spice flavors that build presence and richness on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 368 cases made.—T.F. 92 Panther Creek Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District Lazy River Vineyard 2015 $45 Vibrant and graceful, with raspberry and orange zest aromas and complex cherry, green tea and spice flavors that linger. Refined tannins. Drink now through 2024. 147 cases made.—T.F. 92 Stoller Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Reserve 2015 $45 Polished and generous, featuring lovely raspberry and dusty rose petal aromas that lead to elegantly layered cherry and spiced cinnamon flavors that glide toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2023. 4,800 cases made.—T.F. 91 Compton Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Llewellyn Cuvee 2015 $38…

In Sympathy I was aghast reading “Consumers Caught in Shipping Crossfire” (Grapevine, April 30). Living in Australia, I am on various winery and retail wine store mailing lists, including a few yearly standing orders, all delivered to my door by the national postal service and various couriers. As can be deduced, we are fortunate that Australian laws do not prevent such transport across state lines. The reasoning for such draconian measures in the various U.S. states is an insult to all good wine lovers. When I next open wine to share with others, [U.S. consumers] will be in my thoughts. M. Michael Victoria, Australia Blanc for the Buck We enjoyed MaryAnn Worobiec’s article on California Sauvignon Blanc (“Style and Substance,” June 15). We are huge fans of Merry Edwards wines…

The 2018 Grand Tour tasting marched from Washington, D.C., to New York to Las Vegas this spring, pouring 244 outstanding wines from 15 countries and five states along the way. “This event is a collage of the best producers,” said winemaker Ted Seghesio, who was serving his Seghesio Zinfandel Dry Creek Valley Cortina 2014. Added Siduri winemaker Adam Lee, who brought his 2015 Pisoni Vineyard Pinot Noir, “What’s cool at this event is that I get to talk to [wine lovers]. The [attendees] are really dedicated and wine-knowledgeable. They want to know how the wine is made.” The tour also brings generations together, for winemaking families and wine lovers alike. Jon Kaplan, who lives in Alaska and is a veteran of “at least 10” Grand Tour and Wine Experience events,…

I’ve sampled some of the best coffee from across the world for years now, but I’ve never had the opportunity to request my own custom blend from a roaster. That all changed when I heard about Robin Pollard from Kerri Goodman, editor of CoffeeTalk, a respected trade journal. Pollard is her neighbor on Vashon Island, off the coast of Seattle. There, Pollard has roasted 5-pound batches of beans on her Diedrich roaster since founding Pollard Coffee (www.pollardperse.com) in 2012. Pollard, a former director of the Washington Wine Commission, is a polymath. Raised one of three daughters on an Iowa farm, she learned the value of hard agricultural work and enjoyed the smell—though not the taste—of the canned coffee constantly percolating in her mother’s kitchen. She discovered great coffee later in…

When people boast of their market savvy, the banter often turns to stocks or real estate or even art. There’s a reason wine is conspicuously absent. If you’re tempted to invest in wine as part of a diversified portfolio, proceed with eyes wide open. Certainly there are some who do well buying and selling wine, but you shouldn’t let their success go to your head. The best most can hope for with wine is avoiding disaster. Using an investor mentality—especially when it comes to knowing wine’s relative value and how the market works—should help you assemble a smarter collection. One big advantage wine has over other investments is that if all else fails, you can savor your assets, which might take the sting out of a missed jackpot. Using wine…

96 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva 2013 $66 ITALY This is full-bodied, displaying cherry, licorice, wild herb, iron and tobacco notes. The dense tannins take over and dominate the finish now, despite this remaining fresh and long. Full-bodied and minerally. Best from 2025 through 2040. 1,425 cases made.—B.S. 96 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rabajà Riserva 2013 $66 ITALY This fruity version features floral, cherry and plum flavors, along with savory leather, licorice and tobacco notes. A chewy texture and lively acidity keep this well-defined through the long finish. Complex and classy. Best from 2023 through 2038. 1,420 cases made.—B.S. 95 Krug Brut Champagne Grande Cuvée 165ème Édition NV $170 FRANCE Vivid acidity drives this richly expressive Champagne, while wild cherry, blood orange sorbet, lime blossom, spun honey and spice…

93 Argentiera Bolgheri Poggio ai Ginepri 2015 $20 ITALY A deep well of black currant, blackberry, licorice, cedar and graphite flavors draws you in for the ripe fruit on the palate. There is good grip, with fine overall balance and a long aftertaste of black currant, mineral and tobacco. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2024. 18,333 cases made.—B.S. 93 Roederer Estate Brut Anderson Valley NV $24 CALIFORNIA Seamless and silky, showing an almost effortless sense of complexity, with notes of lemon and pear paired with toasty brioche, fresh ginger and hazelnut details. Drink now. 80,000 cases made.—T.F. 92 Caprili Rosso di Montalcino 2016 $22 ITALY This is rich and infused with cherry, straw-berry, floral, mineral and tobacco flavors. Fluid and lively, showing fine harmony and…

Shiraz & Blends 95 Powell & Son Shiraz Barossa Steinert Flaxman’s 2016 $625 Dense but supple, with an air of elegance to the mix of gingerbread, fresh loam, cedar and espresso flavors, with a toasted chestnut accent to the core of dark fruit. Polished and refined, lingering effortlessly. Drink now through 2028. 150 cases made.—M.W. 93 Powell & Son Shiraz Barossa Barossa & Eden Valley 2016 $45 Whiffs of eucalyptus and white pepper announce the massive, dense and concentrated blueberry and blackberry flavors in this red, with Earl Grey tea–and clove-scented notes on the finish. The power is undeniable. A good candidate to evolve with mid-term cellaring. Drink now through 2032. 950 cases made.—M.W. 93 Tomfoolery Shiraz Barossa Black & Blue 2016 $50 Generous, with toffee-and vanilla bean–scented cherry and…

Piedmont / Barbaresco 96 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Montestefano Riserva 2013 $66 See Highly Recommended, page 103. 96 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Rabajá Riserva 2013 $66 See Highly Recommended, page 103. 95 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Asili Riserva 2013 $66 Rich and silky, boasting cherry, strawberry, mineral, tobacco and spice flavors. Impeccably balanced, even with the firm line of tannins lingering on the finish. The acidity is vibrant, energetically driving the fruit, underbrush and mineral flavors. Best from 2023 through 2038. 1,111 cases made.—B.S. 95 Produttori del Barbaresco Barbaresco Montefico Riserva 2013 $66 This beefy red evokes cherry, licorice, herb, mineral and tobacco aromas and flavors. Rich and densely structured, with iron, tobacco and cherry notes lingering on the long finish. Best from 2023 through 2035. 1,111 cases made.—B.S. 95…

Bierzo 92 Losada Vinos de Finca Bierzo Altos de Losada La Bienquerida 2015 $77 Rich, with a dense texture backed by muscular tannins. Ripe flavors of plum and currant mingle with loamy earth, mineral and cola notes. A big, almost brawny style for the region, but balanced. Drink now through 2028. 400 cases made.—T.M. 91 Bodegas y Viñedos Luna Beberide Bierzo Art… 2015 $50 This red is broad-shouldered, with firm tannins framing savory notes of dried herb, licorice and loamy earth. Features a core of black cherry and plum flavors, and the finish lingers with floral and mineral details. Drink now through 2028. 2,000 cases made.—T.M. 91 Bodega y Viñedos Castro Ventosa Bierzo El Castro de Valtuille 2013 $25 Spice and tobacco notes frame dried cherry and vanilla flavors in…

Leslie Rudd Entrepreneur Leslie Rudd, who built an impressive array of businesses in wine, spirits and food over a 53-year career, died May 3. He was 76. Rudd was CEO of Leslie Rudd Investment Company and founder of the Rudd Group, which owns California properties including Vintage Wine Estates, Rudd Oakville Estate, Edge Hill Estate, Covenant Wines and Distillery No. 209, as well as Press restaurant and Oakville Grocery. Born in Kansas, Rudd joined Standard Beverage Corp., his father’s business, in 1965, becoming its president in 1974. His first foray into luxury comestibles came in 1996, when he purchased a majority interest in specialty grocer Dean & DeLuca, and also the property that would become Rudd Oakville Estate. In 2007, he and a partner created Vintage Wine Estates, which now…

You’re having a summer patio bash, mixing ’em up and sweating it out at as the calls come in for nouveau cocktails with arcane ingredients that need shaking and muddling. Then one blessed guest meekly asks for a Gin & Tonic. Bless her heart! At last, a no-fuss drink, with just two main ingredients (plus ice and garnish). Not so fast. It may be time to rethink this seemingly simple drink. Devotees have tricked out every possible nuance. Of course, you have to choose a gin (there are hundreds worldwide). But you also have to consider the garnish, the ice and even the very vessel it comes in. To top it off, your choice of tonic is ever-widening. A chemical compound inspired the drink. In the 18th century, peripatetic Brits…

BELLA ITALIA Italy produces terrific values from multiple regions. Tuscany features prominently here, with support from Veneto, Alto Adige and Emilia-Romagna. Toscani’s Quadratorosso and iToscani are both interesting blends based on Syrah; the Massoferrato Toscana, plus the Rossos and the Chianti, are 100 percent Sangiovese. OLIVIERO TOSCANI Toscana Quadratorosso 2015 (93, $28) Powerful, meaty; blackberry, pomegranate, iron, toasty oak BINDI SERGARDI Chianti Classico La Ghirlanda 2015 (91, $21) Black cherry, plum, earth, graphite, tobacco; vibrant FERRERO Rosso di Montalcino 2016 (91, $23) Succulent; sweet cherry, berry, graphite MASSOFERRATO Sangiovese Toscana Impruneta 2015 (91, $18) Cherry, wild herb, tobacco, iron; fragrant, supple ROCCOLO GRASSI Soave La Broia 2015 (91, $20) Racy, elegant; ripe pear, chamomile, peach skin, Meyer lemon peel, mineral TIEFENBRUNNER Chardonnay Alto Adige Merus 2017 (91, $16) Honeycrisp apple,…

LA RIOJA, Spain—“The wine is made by the consumer, not by the producer,” declares Telmo Rodríguez, provocateur in chief of the revisionist Rioja winery Compañia de Vinos Telmo Rodríguez. Rioja locals are used to such declarations from Rodríguez. But they are not used to the wines he issues, nor the high prices they command. Possessed of an evangelist’s fervor, the 55-year-old Rodríguez is a happy warrior. But what, exactly, is he fighting for—and against? “What is classic?” he asks rhetorically about Rioja and its wines. “What is modern? The ‘modern’ Rioja,” he says, wiggling his fingers in the air to add the apostrophes, “is really the 19th century. We’re making 18th-century wines,” he declares triumphantly. “We’re returning to what Rioja once was, when villages each had their own identity and…

TO hear California vintners tell it, not only is the supremacy of Chardonnay still unquestioned, but the best is yet to come. The reason for this lies in Chardonnay’s inherent character, which is defined by diversity. Chardonnay allows winemakers to work on a blank canvas as big as the state, giving them the freedom to create a range of styles from an immense variety of locales. Chardonnay has long ruled the roost of Golden State whites, though competition is fiercer than ever. Tastes are changing and more wines are vying for attention. There are outside challengers such as Sauvignon Blanc, as well as internal pressures stemming from the growing interest in single-vineyard bottlings. Some wineries that weigh in with Chardonnay now offer a half-dozen different wines or more from the…

Bordeaux can appear fixed in time. But while its stately 18th-and 19th-century châteaus remain unchanged, the cellars beneath them are state-of-the-art, born of ongoing experimentation and investment. Advancements in viticulture have played a role in the region’s modernization too, resulting in wines of greater precision and with finer tannins. Finding an inflection point isn’t easy. But Bordeaux’s modern era arguably began with the much-heralded 2000 vintage. “A huge part of Bordeaux vines was replaced in 1956 and 1957, after the frost of February 1956,” notes Christian Moueix, owner of a cluster of elite Right Bank estates. “The stock we got at that time was virused and of very poor quality. Those vines were replaced in the ’80s and ’90s and began to produce top quality from 2000 on.” The region’s…

98 Ramonet Montrachet 2015 $1,500 FRANCE Smooth and rich, this evokes lemon meringue pie, peach, buttered pastry and toasty oak aromas and flavors. Harmonious and saturated with flavor, this unfolds in layers through the superlong finish. Best from 2021 through 2033. 20 cases imported.—B.S. 97 Ornellaia Bolgheri Superiore 2015 $255 ITALY A big, brooding red, packed with blackberry, plum and earth flavors, all wrapped in spicy oak. Monolithic now, finishing with saline mineral elements, a leafy tobacco edge and dense, mouthcoating tannins. Terrific potential. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. Best from 2023 through 2038. 2,300 cases imported.—B.S. 97 Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri-Sassicaia Sassicaia 2015 $245 ITALY This rich and concentrated red features black currant, blackberry, violet, mineral and spice flavors. Dense yet lively, structured yet impeccably balanced,…

90 Grove Mill Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley 2017 $15 NEW ZEALAND Tangy peach, mango and green apple flavors are intense and focused, with accents of lemongrass and fresh ginger. Harmonious on the long finish. Drink now. 7,500 cases imported.—M.W. 88 Bieler Père & Fils Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence Rosè Sabine 2017 $13 FRANCE A rose petal hint leads off before giving way to pretty white cherry and peach flavors. A subtle talc thread supports the sneakily long and stylish finish. Grenache, Syrah, Cinsault, Cabernet Sauvignon and Rolle. Drink now. 65,000 cases imported.—J.M. 88 The Ned Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Waihopai Valley 2017 $13 NEW ZEALAND Pear, lime and tangerine flavors are crisp and refreshing, with notes of coconut water and grapefruit on the finish. Drink now. 430,000 cases made.—M.W. 86 Dominio de Eguren…

Burgundy / Côte de Beaune / Chassagne-Montrachet 95 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Abbaye de Morgeot 2015 $138 Pure and focused, this white delivers lemon cake, vanilla, pastry and subtle herb flavors on a seamless frame. As this unfolds through the long aftertaste, the acidity shines, extending the length and echoing citrus and spice notes. A mineral element chimes in as well. Drink now through 2028. 15 cases imported.—B.S. 95 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Chenevottes 2015 $122 Opulent, sporting a broad swath of peach, apple, honey and spice flavors across the palate, well-supported by tangy acidity. Hangs around on the finish for a long time, echoing ripe fruit and spice notes. Excellent length. Best from 2020 through 2030. 20 cases imported.—B.S. 94 Pierre-Yves Colin-Morey Chassagne-Montrachet Les Ancegnières 2015 $83 This is a…

Sauvignon Blanc 90 Kim Crawford Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Signature Reserve 2017 $25 Harmonious and expressive, with ruby grapefruit, mango and citrus flavors that are crisp, with lip-smacking acidity. A fleshy texture and notes of saline and lemon verbena linger on the finish. Drink now. 20,000 cases made.—M.W. 90 Grove Mill Sauvignon Blanc Wairau Valley 2017 $15 See Best Values, page 106. 90 Mud House Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2017 $16 See Smart Buys, page 106. 89 Giesen Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2017 $15 Bright and refreshing, offering a vibrant mix of passionfruit, lime and ruby grapefruit flavors that are intense and juicy. A hint of lemongrass shows on the finish. Drink now. 1,000,000 cases made.—M.W. 89 Kono Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2017 $14 Juicy, crisp and refreshing, with vibrant grapefruit, lime and green…

CALIFORNIA Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 94 Alejandro Bulgheroni Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2015 $300 Impressive in terms of size, polish and finesse, this is built with tiers of red and dark berry fruit, joined by dusty mocha notes and ending with a long, layered aftertaste that keeps unveiling new flavor pockets. Best from 2020 through 2032. 200 cases made.—J.L. 94 Venge Cabernet Sauvignon Calistoga Bone Ash Vineyard 2015 $105 Creamy, with a smooth entry and supple mouthfeel, offering black licorice, currant, dark berry and mocha flavors. Ends with firm, fine-grained tannins. Best from 2020 through 2032. 420 cases made.—J.L. 94 Venge Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Family Reserve 2015 $155 An exceptional effort, bold, rich and elegant, taming the assertive dark berry and spice flavors, tannins and cedar accents, showing amplitude and…

Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 94 Leonetti Reserve Walla Walla Valley 2015 $150 See Collectibles, page 104. 94 Quilceda Creek Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2015 $200 Graceful, expressive and impeccably built, with precise dark berry, black olive and black tea flavors that broaden and expand on a lingering finish. Finishes with polished tannins. Drink now through 2025. 6,125 cases made.—T.F. 92 Leonetti Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley 2015 $100 Refined and impressively built, with blackberry, bay leaf and clove flavors that take on depth and richness toward polished tannins. Drink now through 2025. 2,882 cases made.—T.F. 92 Mark Ryan Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain Dead Horse 2015 $58 Appealingly brooding, with blackberry, black olive and spice flavors that add richness and polish to a finish that’s dense with refined tannins. Hands off…

WINE PAIRING With its array of creamy and fruity tones balanced by fine acidic structure, good quality oaked Chardonnay is a no-brainer with buttery salmon. A ripe style from Mexico’s Guadalupe Valley matches pineapple, mineral and smoke notes to the rich, savory plate. CHEF’S PICK Bodegas de Santo Tomas Chardonnay Baja California 2015 WINE SPECTATOR PICKS Lloyd Chardonnay Carneros 2016 (90, $40), De Morgenzon Chardonnay Stellenbosch DMZ 2016 (89, $18) “Puebla, maybe it’s not that famous, like Mexico City or Oaxaca, but the richness and all the traditional culinary ways in Puebla are great,” says chef Jorge González of Pasquinel Bistrot in the city’s Rosewood Hotel. As of recently, González observes, “The culinary scene in Puebla is growing.” A two-hour drive southeast of Mexico City, the brightly colored city of…