Indholdsfortegnelse for August 31, 2018 i Wine Spectator

Visit WineSpectator.com/083118 to find links to all of the following resources. FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL OUR WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS: THE WORLD’S BEST WINE LISTS AT YOUR FINGERTIPS Wine Spectator’s Restaurant Awards app helps you find restaurants with the world’s leading wine lists. Every dining destination in this app—covering all 50 U.S. states and 75+ countries—has earned a Wine Spectator award for its dedication to wine. The app allows you to search through more than 3,700 award winners to find the ultimate wine experience. RESTAURANTS.WINESPECTATOR.COM Have you visited our Restaurant Awards site? Our free online Restaurant Search has been upgraded so you can easily find the 2018 award winners, with maps. Or look for the perfect dining spot in any location by wine strengths, cuisine type, pricing and more. Plus, find all our…

Memo on Mexico I am an avid reader of your magazine. I am enthusiastic about Spanish wines (Rioja and Ribera del Duero), French (Bordeaux and Champagne), Napa and Washington wines. But I would like to know your opinion about Mexican wines, because they are not mentioned in your magazine or in your reviews. Mario Lopez Osorio Los Mochis, Mexico Executive editor Thomas Matthews replies: Thanks for writing to Wine Spectator, and for being an avid reader. Our policy is to focus our resources on reviewing wines that are accessible to our readers, who are mostly based in the U.S. At this point, very few wines from Mexico are exported to the U.S. and even fewer are widely distributed here. As a result, we have not reviewed many Mexican wines in…

Education has always been a primary goal of Wine Spectator. Founded in 1980, the Wine Spectator Scholarship Foundation provides grants and scholarships to a variety of wine and culinary programs. To date, WSSF, funded by proceeds from Wine Spectator’s Wine Experience, has raised more than $20 million. Beneficiaries include: • Sonoma State University, Wine Spectator Learning Center at the Wine Business Institute: $3 million• University of California, Davis, Dept. of Viticulture and Enology: $3.6 million; over the past 30 years, more than 800 students have received scholarships and/or research grants• Washington State University, Life Science Teaching Lab at the Wine Science Center: $1 million• Florida International University Hospitality School, Wine Spectator Restaurant Management Lab: $1 million• University of California, Berkeley, Wine Spectator California Wine Pioneers Oral History Series, Bancroft Library:…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 93 Résonance Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2016 $35 OREGON Precise and impressively structured, with refined raspberry, crushed rock and savory tea accents that take on richness and depth. COLLECTIBLE 96 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2015 $350 CALIFORNIA Broad and expansive, with dark berry, currant, anise, cedar and sage notes, supported by firm, chewy tannins. SMART BUY 90 Casa Ferreirinha Douro White Papa Figos 2016 $18 PORTUGAL This aromatic white is medium- to full-bodied, with notes of beeswax and almond flanking the lemon curd, pureed mango and peach flavors. BEST VALUE 88 Cantina di Santa Maria La Palma Vermentino di Sardegna Aragosta 2017 $13 ITALY Snappy acidity and a streak of salinity structure this aromatic white, with a pretty mix of peach skin, Meyer lemon peel and pink grapefruit…

We hope you’ll give them a try. About the Award Levels To qualify for an award, a wine list must present complete, accurate information, including vintages and appellations for all selections. Complete producer names and correct spellings are mandatory, and the overall presentation of the list is also considered. Lists that meet these requirements are judged for one of our three awards. AWARD OF EXCELLENCE 2,453 winners These wine lists, which typically offer at least 90 selections, feature a well-chosen assortment of quality producers along with a thematic match to the menu in both price and style. Whether compact or extensive, focused or diverse, these lists deliver sufficient choice to satisfy discerning wine lovers. BEST OF AWARD OF EXCELLENCE 1,215 winners These wine lists display excellent breadth across multiple winegrowing…

The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 95 Beaux Freres Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge The Beaux Freres Vineyard 2016 $95 OREGON Remarkably and seamlessly complex, with a polished and refined core wrapped in silky raspberry and blueberry flavors, accented by savory spice and orange zest hints. The long finish builds toward polished tannins. Drink now through 2025. 2,686 cases made. —T.F. 94 San Roman Bodegas y Vinedos Toro 2014 $67 SPAIN A velvety texture carries ripe fruit flavors of plum and blackberry in this plush red. Cocoa, loamy earth and mineral notes add depth and interest. Ripe tannins are well-integrated, and balsamic acidity keeps this lively. Drink now through 2029. 8,000 cases made. —T.M. 93…

Wines that deliver fine character at affordable prices and that are broadly available. 92 Guardian Chalk Line Columbia Valley 2016 $25 WASHINGTON Densely structured, yet retains a sleek sense of grace, offering smoky blackberry, stony mineral and spice flavors that persist toward broad-shouldered yet refined tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah and Petit Verdot. Best from 2021 through 2025. 1,340 cases made.—T.F. 92 Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2017 $17 NEW ZEALAND Rich and complex, with honeysuckle and freshly grated ginger notes up front, giving way to juicy and crisp Meyer lemon, yellow apple and Asian pear flavors. Hints of lime zest and dried mango linger. Drink now. 10,000 cases imported.—M.W. 92 Bodegas Palacios Remondo Rioja La Montesa Crianza 2015 $20 SPAIN Silky and polished, this red is graceful and lively, with…

Grüner Veltliner 91 Josef Schmid Gruner Veltliner Qualitatswein Trocken Kremstal Alte Reben DAC Reserve 2016 $20 This shows a floral character, with elderflower aromas and flavors of ripe apricot, saffron and spice. Concentrated, yet lively thanks to the bright acidity. A mineral streak cuts through, leading to an enticing finish. Drink now through 2023. 100 cases imported.—B.S. 90 Laurenz Five Gruner Veltliner Dry Kamptal Charming Reserve 2016 $30 A hint of elderflower adds a high note to the peach, apple, grapefruit and lentil flavors. Lively, ending tangy. Shows an elegant side of the grape. Drink now through 2021. 250 cases imported.—B.S. 90 Johannes Zillinger Gruner Veltliner Qualitatswein Trocken Niederosterreich Reflexion Ried Kellerberg 2016 $26 This leads off with a graphite edge, picking up apple, lemon and quince flavors that form…

Piedmont / Red 92 Cantina del Pino Barbera d’Alba 2015 $30 Pure, with a bright beam of cherry fruit and a supple texture. Vibrant acidity and a light dusting of tannins mesh beautifully as this glides to a long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now through 2023. 250 cases made.—B.S. 92 Mauro Veglio Nebbiolo Langhe Angelo 2016 $25 Starts out supple before turning chewy on the finish. In between lies cherry, spice and licorice flavors, with a juicy texture and lingering accents of earth and wild herbs. Drink now through 2025. 700 cases made.—B.S. 91 Mauro Veglio Barbera d’Alba 2016 $22 Succulent, exuding cherry, raspberry, floral and mineral flavors. Silky and elegant, with a long, detailed aftertaste. Drink now through 2022. 1,500 cases made.—B.S. 90 Gianfranco Bovio Barbera d’Alba Regiaveja Superiore 2015…

94 Mullineux Straw Wine Swartland 2016 $45/375ml Intense, made in a rather ripe style, with a broad swath of apricot, mango and creamed peach flavors that move languidly throughout, picking up light verbena, green tea and maple accents along the way. This is supported by buried acidity, allowing the exotic fruit to drape on the finish. Chenin Blanc. Drink now through 2028. 516 cases made.—J.M. 93 de Trafford Straw Wine 3V Western Cape NV $55/375ml This is gorgeous, with creamed apricot, peach and mango flavors that are supported by zings of green tea and ginger. Flattering overall, but with the needed tension for support, this lets the fruit play out lengthily. Chenin Blanc. Made from 2011, 2013 and 2014 vintages. Drink now through 2028. 70 cases made.—J.M. 93 de Trafford…

Pinot Noir 95 Beaux Freres Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge The Beaux Freres Vineyard 2016 $95 See Highly Recommended, page 185. 94 Beaux Freres Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2016 $60 Seamlessly complex and silky, with vivid raspberry and blueberry flavors accented by black tea and savory spice notes that dance elegantly toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2024. 2,481 cases made.—T.F. 93 Big Table Farm Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2016 $45 See Highly Recommended, page 185. 93 Failla Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2016 $28 See Highly Recommended, page 185. 93 Harper Voit Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Antiquum Vineyard 2016 $65 Offers a silky texture and expressive cherry and blueberry flavors accented by smoked spice and sandalwood. Finishes with polished tannins. Drink now through 2023. 225 cases made.—T.F. 93 Resonance Pinot Noir…

Since 1981, Wine Spectator has been giving awards to restaurants with excellent wine programs. We began with 13 restaurants; today, our Dining Guide lists 3,759 restaurants in all 50 states and more than 75 countries around the world. The Grand Award, our highest honor, is reserved for the most exceptional establishments. This year, seven restaurants earned the Grand Award for the first time. All together, 91 restaurants are members of this exclusive club. (A complete list, organized by state and country, appears on page 11.) It is not easy to earn a Grand Award. Most of the current winners have been in our program for many years, building their cellars, before reaching the pinnacle. We inspect every candidate for the Grand Award to ensure that the entire dining experience is…

The Thomas fire spared Adam Tolmach’s Ojai winery. But the fire is only the most recent challenge Tolmach has faced. The fires that raged through Napa and Sonoma last October were not the only blazes threatening California winemaking communities. In early December, the Thomas fire ignited in Ventura County, north of Los Angeles. By the time it was officially contained, on Jan. 12, it had consumed 282,000 acres, making it the largest wildfire in the state’s modern history. Ojai, a beautiful town that’s home to a growing number of wineries and tasting rooms, was at the center of the fire’s wrath. Adam Tolmach, a pioneering vintner in the region with his Ojai Vineyard, tracked the fire’s progress. “That day, we did a bottling of a half a million dollars’ worth…

On the second floor of New York’s Langham Hotel, Ai Fiori is an elegant oasis above the bustle of Fifth Avenue. Opened in 2010, the restaurant has become one of New York’s top dining destinations for its Riviera-inspired cuisine and a balanced wine list that continues to blossom. The wine program has more than tripled in size since Ai Fiori debuted. At press time, the list offered 2,000 selections and an inventory of 11,000 bottles. It’s the largest cellar in the Altamarea Group, which includes Best of Award of Excellence winners Vaucluse, Marea and Restaurant Morini. Founded by restaurateur Ahmass Fakahany and chef Michael White, the group is known for wine-friendly cuisine and luxurious dining experiences. Ai Fiori delivers both. The decor embraces the restaurant’s name, which translates to “among…

There’s a bucolic splendor to California Interstate 280 as it courses through the foothills of the Santa Cruz Mountains near Stanford University. But appearances can be deceiving; the freeway is one of the main byways of Silicon Valley, home to the high-tech headquarters of Google, Facebook and Apple, to name a few. Also tucked away in those hills is the luxurious 16-acre Rosewood Sand Hill resort, its 112 rooms offering access to a pristine pool, a large spa and a hideaway atmosphere that has upped the stakes in the formerly anodyne lodging scene in the South Bay. Completing the package is Madera, the resort’s relaxed though refined restaurant, a Pinot Noir lover’s paradise that has raised the local culinary ante as well. The Michelin one-star kitchen is helmed by chef…

WINE DIRECTOR/SOMMELIER: This information, provided by the restaurant, indicates the people responsible for managing the wine list and assisting diners with their wine selections. WINE STRENGTHS: Determined by our judges, this indicates the emphasis of the list, not all the regions from which wines are offered. Wine strengths are listed in descending order of prominence. WINE SELECTIONS: This indicates the number of selections on the list at the time the award was conferred. For Grand Award winners, this is followed by the total number of bottles in the restaurant’s inventory. WINE PRICES: Determined by our judges, this describes the overall pricing of the wine list, taking into account both the general markup of wines offered and the number of wines at high and low price points. Inexpensive lists offer many…

Wines that will improve most from additional bottle age and that show the greatest potential to gain in value. 98 Chateau de Beaucastel Chateauneuf-du-Pape Hommage a Jacques Perrin 2015 $594 FRANCE A well-endowed wine, dripping with cassis, plum sauce and raspberry puree flavors supported by notes of warmed apple wood, black tea and melted licorice. Dense yet remarkably polished, and almost supple in feel, with a bolt of warm earth scoring the very end of the finish. Best from 2025 through 2050. 170 cases made.—J.M. 96 Blain-Gagnard Batard-Montrachet 2015 $285 FRANCE Gorgeous aromas of peach, apple, lemon cake and seashore herald this lush, expansive white. Harmonious, energetic and saturated, with orchard fruit, spice and mineral flavors that just won’t quit. A hedonist’s delight. Drink now through 2027. 200 cases made.—B.S.…

Wines with solid scores, modest prices and wide distribution. 91 Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2017 $14 NEW ZEALAND Offers aromatic notes of honeysuckle, peach cobbler and Key lime pie, lush and expressive, set on a crisp, sleek frame, with plenty of juiciness and refreshment, finishing with a dash of grapefruit zest. Drink now. 32,000 cases imported.—M.W. 90 Columbia Crest Cabernet Sauvignon Horse Heaven Hills H3 2016 $15 WASHINGTON Supple and approachable, with lively black cherry and spiced herb flavors that linger on the finish. Drink now through 2022. 500,000 cases made.—T.F. 90 Joel Gott Sauvignon Blanc California 2017 $15 CALIFORNIA Juicy pear, peach and citrus flavors are bright and smooth, with a touch of dried chamomile and lemon verbena lingering on the finish. Impressive for the focus and aromatic…

91 Vina Tarapaca Etiqueta Azul Gran Reserva Maipo Valley 2015 $45 This features plenty of floral accents to the ripe and densely packed dark fruit and mocha flavors. Smoky accents linger on the rich finish, filled with Asian spice notes. Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Drink now through 2023. 2,200 cases made.—K.M. 90 Cousino-Macul Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot Maipo Valley Finis Terrae 2013 $26 Suave and refined, featuring an engaging aroma of cappuccino, with flavors to match, as well as green olive, dried berry and cigar box notes. Mature accents linger on the inky finish. Drink now. 4,500 cases made.—K.M. 90 De Martino Malbec-Carmenere Cachapoal Valley Las Cruces Old Vine 2015 $43 Offers lots of mineral and sage notes to the dried berry, cherry and currant flavors, framed by crisp…

92 Nautilus Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2017 $17 See Smart Buys, page 186. 91 Wither Hills Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2017 $14 See Best Values, page 188. 90 Mohua Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2017 $16 The lemongrass, citrus and pear flavors are clean and bright, set on a sleek frame, with peppery white flower accents and notes of citrus peel that linger. Drink now. 52,000 cases made.—M.W. 89 Ara Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Pathway 2017 $18 Lime, green apple and passion fruit flavors give this wine a fresh, green profile, set on a crisp, refreshing frame, with notes of apple blossom lingering for an aromatic boost. Drink now. 75,000 cases made.—M.W. 89 Catalina Sounds Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2017 $16 Peach, apricot and pineapple notes are juicy and refreshing, with spice, lanolin and chamomile aromas…

Rioja 95 Vinedos de Paganos Rioja La Nieta 2015 $140 Cocoa, clove and mineral notes frame black plum and currant fruit in this expressive red. The full tannins are well-integrated, with gentle balsamic acidity, and give way to mineral, black olive and floral details on the long finish. Generous and harmonious. Drink now through 2030. 350 cases made.—T.M. 95 Bodegas Sierra Cantabria Rioja Finca El Bosque 2015 $150 Cocoa, clove and graphite notes frame a core of plum and blackberry in this big red. Firm tannins and balsamic acidity support the broad texture. Powerful yet graceful, with an alluring balance of savory and fruity character. Bold, in the modern style. Drink now through 2030. 350 cases made.—T.M. 94 Bodegas Roda Rioja Cirsion 2015 $330 Cocoa, licorice and graphite notes frame…

Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 93 K The Creator Powerline Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2015 $55 Polished, with well-structured blackberry, black olive and smoked spice flavors that persist toward refined tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah. Drink now through 2024. 1,185 cases made.—T.F. 93 Spring Valley Frederick Walla Walla Valley 2015 $50 Combines a firm, structured backbone with polished, expressive black cherry and dusky spice flavors that take on richness toward broad but polished tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. Best from 2021 through 2026. 2,992 cases made.—T.F. 92 Betz Possibility Columbia Valley 2015 $35 See Highly Recommended, page 185. 92 Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2015 $75 Expressive and refined, in an appealingly zesty way, offering lively black cherry, cracked pepper and crushed stone accents that take on richness…

UNITED STATES CALIFORNIA Acquerello Grand Award since 2012 Addison Grand Award since 2009 Capo Grand Award since 2015 The French Laundry Grand Award since 2007 La Toque Grand Award since 2014 Madera Grand Award since 2018 Murray Circle Grand Award since 2016 Patina Grand Award since 1994 Plumed Horse Grand Award since 2015 Restaurant Gary Danko Grand Award since 2001 The Restaurant at Meadowood Grand Award since 2016 Restaurant 301 at the Hotel Carter Grand Award since 1998 Saison Grand Award since 2014 Sierra Mar Grand Award since 2012 Spago Beverly Hills Grand Award since 2010 Spruce Grand Award since 2015 The Stonehouse Grand Award since 2014 Studio Grand Award since 2014 The Village Pub Grand Award since 2013 Wally’s Beverly Hills Grand Award since 2017 COLORADO Barolo Grill Grand…

SUMMER SIPPERS Ranging from floral Austrian Riesling to vivid Washington Chardonnay, this selection of white wines offers a tantalizing mix of flavors and textures from around the globe, enough to get you through the dog days of August. KARL FRITSCH Riesling Qualitätswein Wagram 2016 (93, $18) Fragrant, intense; floral, apple, lemon, mineral JOSEF FISCHER Riesling Federspiel Trocken Wachau Ried Kirnberg 2016 (92, $20) Citrus, floral, peach, red currant; racy, tangy TANIA & VINCENT CARÊME Vouvray Spring 2016 (91, $20) Focused; ginger, honeysuckle, lime, quince, mineral JOSEF SCHMID Grüner Veltliner Qualitätswein Trocken Kremstal Alte Reben DAC Reserve 2016 (91, $20) Elderflower, apricot, saffron, spice, mineral; bright, concentrated CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE Chardonnay Columbia Valley Indian Wells 2016 (90, $17) Expressive, lively; tropical fruit, toasted spice CHATEAU STE. MICHELLE-DR. LOOSEN Riesling Columbia Valley…

I don’t fathom why some wine drinkers see their glass as half-full when we’re living in a paradise of fine wine. Shortly after returning from a three-month stay in Spain, I met a wine-loving friend who said, “How does it feel to be back in the land of stupidly expensive wines?” I looked at him blankly. “In one of your Web columns, you wrote about the real-world wines you were drinking in Spain, like that rosé from Navarra that cost you just a couple of bucks,” he went on. “Well, good luck finding that here,” he added rather bitterly. This wasn’t the first time I’ve come across such bilious sentiments, either in person or, more frequently yet, online in various chatboards or blogs. A lot of wine drinkers’ glasses, it…

Barolo Grill opened in Denver’s tony Cherry Creek neighborhood in December 1992, a reflection of its times. There was butcher paper on the tables and 150 wines on a list constructed from what was readily available in Colorado then; think Silver Oak Cabernet and Borgogno Barolo. In 1995, then-owner Blair Taylor took his key staff on a 10-day summer trip to Italy. It changed everything. The group included Ryan Fletter, then the bartender and since 2015, Barolo Grill’s owner. “We were exposed to great wines at Gaja, Giacosa, Sassicaia,” Fletter recalls. “I tasted red-label 1988 Barbaresco from Giacosa that convinced me I was doing the right thing” to upgrade the wine list. “When we got home to Denver, guests who never had Italian wine other than straw-basket Chianti started relying…

The 201 9 Wine Spectator Restaurant Awards program will accept new entries and renewals from Dec. 1, 2018, to Feb. 1, 2019; all entries must be postmarked by Feb. 1. To enter, restaurants must submit a copy of their current wine list and dinner menu, plus a cover letter that describes their wine program. The letter must include the restaurant’s phone number and email address, and must be in English. A nonrefundable processing fee, payable either by check or credit card, is also required; the fee is $325 from Dec. 1 to Dec. 31, 2018, or $375 from Jan. 1 to Feb. 1, 2019. Additional information and general applications are available at Restaurants.WineSpectator.com. FIRST-TIME ENTRANTS: All first-time entrants can go to Restaurants. WineSpectator.com, where they’ll be directed to fill out…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. If no reviewer’s initials appear, the wine was tasted by a panel of Wine Spectator editors. James Laube California Harvey Steiman At large Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California, Argentina, Chile Bruce Sanderson Italy, Burgundy, Austria James Molesworth Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Loire Valley,…

92 Powell & Son Shiraz Barossa Valley 2016 $28 Packs a wallop, with intense blackberry, plum and licorice notes, set on a dense body, with sink-your-teeth-into-them tannins and black pepper and Earl Grey tea details on the finish. Great focus. Drink now through 2028. 2,000 cases made.—M.W. 91 Alpha Crucis Cabernet Sauvignon McLaren Vale Titan 2016 $28 Juicy and vibrant, with mocha, vanilla bean, bay leaf and blackberry flavors that are intense and velvety. Generous on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2028. 3,000 cases made.—M.W. 91 De Bortoli Shiraz Heathcote Woodfired 2017 $20 Distinctive and aromatic, with fresh loamy earth, sandalwood and Earl Grey tea notes set on a dense but velvety frame, showing plenty of energy to the juicy fruit core of pomegranate and raspberry. Vibrant on…

Burgundy / Chablis 92 Billaud-Simon Chablis Les Clos 2016 $138 Rich and ample in the mouth, boasting lemon cake, apple and honey flavors. Offers decent cut buried in the flesh and a subtle ending that echoes the honey and lemon notes. Drink now through 2024. 450 cases made.—B.S. 92 William Fevre Chablis Les Clos Domaine 2016 $140 Enticing aromas and flavors of green plum, lemon, apple and seashore mark this balanced, seamless white. A flinty accent adds complexity, while the finish builds. Drink now through 2024. 120 cases imported.—B.S. 91 Billaud-Simon Chablis Bougros 2016 $122 Rich, driven by lemon aromas and flavors, with a supporting cast of apple and honey notes. Firms up on the finish, where a light stony element emerges. Drink now through 2023. 2,900 cases made.—B.S. 91…

Dão / White 89 Seacampo Dao White Casa Americo 2017 $10 Floral and smoke aromas accent the lemon curd, glazed peach and mango flavors of this white, with savory grilled herb and fresh earth details marking the long finish. Bical, Cerceal Blanco and Encruzado. Drink now through 2020. 3,500 cases made.—G.S. 88 Global Wines Dao White Cabriz Colheita Selecionada 2017 $10 Medium-bodied, with a lacy texture encasing peach puree, lemon and floral flavors, matched to a blanched almond underpinning. Herb and mineral details echo on the lingering finish. Encruzado, Malvasia-Fina, Bical and Cerceal-Branco. Drink now through 2020. 33,000 cases made.—G.S. 88 Quinta das Maias Dao White 2017 $15 Mineral details underscore the creamy apple, pear and lemon zest flavors of this light- to medium-bodied white, with floral accents marking the…

Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 96 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2015 $350 See Collectibles, page 185. 95 Bond Pluribus Napa Valley 2014 $715 See Collectibles, page 186. 94 Bond St. Eden Napa Valley 2014 $715 Pure, rich and vibrant, with a core of plum, blackberry, currant, anise and cedar flavors. Impressive weight and refinement, remaining elegant and graceful despite the size. Best from 2020 through 2034. 603 cases made.—J.L. 94 Bond Vecina Napa Valley 2014 $715 A mix of creamy, toasty oak casts a large shadow but the fruit underneath is rich and up to the task, folding in nicely and adding dimension, body and length to the core flavors. Best from 2020 through 2032. 679 cases made.—J.L. 94 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena Coeur 2015 $80 Sleek and elegant, deep…

WINE PAIRING Look for a light- to medium-bodied red, with juicy acidity and tannins that impart tobacco or licorice tones, to match the charred meat. Floral accents will flatter the honey lavender sauce, and herbal hints nod to the rosemary crust. Nebbiolo would be ideal. CHEF’S PICKS Cantina del Pino Barbaresco Gallina 2011 WINE SPECTATOR PICKS Damilano Barolo Lecinquevigne 2013 (90, $46), Vietti Nebbiolo Langhe Perbacco 2014 (90, $26) Chef Amy Brandwein Centrolina Washington, D.C. Award of Excellence Rich, assertive and animalistic, “Lamb has got its own character,” says Amy Brandwein. To complement its big personality, she says, “I like the idea of putting something herbaceous with it, something sweet and spicy and salty.” As chef-owner of the Washington, D.C., restaurant Centrolina, a winner of Wine Spectator’s 2018 Award of…