Indholdsfortegnelse for December 31, 2018 i Wine Spectator

Q: Should I remove all the air in the bottle before freezing it, or just cork it? A: Just cork it; for short-term storage, air won’t be a problem. More important is to have enough head room in the bottle to allow for the liquid’s expansion. (One reason why putting a full bottle of wine in a freezer is not a great idea—you run the risk of the frozen wine pushing out the cork or even shattering the bottle.) Q: I froze a bottle of Champagne. Is it still drinkable? A: Drinkable, yes. Enjoyable? Hard to say. The defrosted wine won’t be harmful to drink, but while still wines are likely to taste the same as before being frozen, sparklers tend to have a marked reduction in carbonation. Q: A…

Nashville Henrietta Red 1200 Fourth Avenue N. Telephone (615) 490-8042 Website henriettared.com Amid all the worthy hot chicken and barbecue joints in Nashville, Tenn., there’s a new spot in town from a chef with big-city fine-dining credentials. Chef-owner Julia Sullivan opened Henrietta Red in 2017 in the Germantown neighborhood. The large, elegant space greets you with a buzzing bar area expanding to the main dining room, which sports navy banquettes, white-brick walls, massive square windows and an open kitchen. Several buckets of oysters, most from the southern U.S., sit in ice next to one of the marble counters. During a recent meal, a dish of juicy heirloom tomatoes, baked ricotta, basil and housemade crackers ($14) was a great example of what the restaurant does best: marrying simple, fresh ingredients with great flavors and textures.…

LA DOLCE VITA This group of Italian values, primarily from Tuscany, is sure to enhance any occasion. Back-to-back successes from the 2015 and 2016 harvests lifted quality across the country, resulting in rewards for wine lovers. CASTELLO ROMITORIO Toscana Il Toro 2015 (94, $25) Polished, balanced; violet, black currant, blackberry, graphite, toasty oak CASTELLO DI VICCHIOMAGGIO Chianti Classico Agostina Petri Riserva 2015 (94, $28) Sweet cherry, plum, leather, wild herb, spice, licorice; firm, savory POGGIO AL TESORO Toscana Mediterra 2015 (93, $27) Bright, ripe; blackberry, black currant, black pepper, ink FATTORIA DI BASCIANO Chianti Rufina 2016 (91, $15) Black cherry, black currant, cedar, tobacco; vibrant, refined LUIANO Chianti Classico 2016 (91, $20) Lively, elegant; cherry, strawberry, floral, mineral, tobacco PODERE IL PALAZZINO Toscana Rosso del Palazzino 2015 (91, $14) Cherry,…

Greater transparency from the region’s producers is helping consumers to see Champagne as a wine in its own right. Piper-Heidsieck has a secret. That’s the name of its new luxury cuvee. As I tasted the wine recently with chef de cave Regis Camus, I had the thought that secrecy has long been part of Champagne’s mystique, but greater transparency is helping the wine redefine itself and attract new fans. Le Secret NV was bottled only in magnum, and only 1,000 were made. About a dozen of them were bejeweled by the centuries-old jeweler Mellerio, making for an extraordinary package that epitomizes the luxury and exclusivity long associated with Champagne. The name itself recalls the former tendency of Champagne producers to be short on production details and long on glamorous photos…

2 CHÂTEAU CANONLA GAFFELIÈRE St.-Emilion 2015 96 | $84 | France Count Stephan von Neipperg looks the part of timeless royalty. But this energetic vintner is a modernist, pushing his family’s properties to organic growing practices long thought too difficult to achieve in the maritime climate of Bordeaux. Canon-La Gaffeliere is von Neipperg’s flagship estate, situated on limestone and clay slopes below the plateau of St.-Emilion. The blend of 55 percent Merlot, 38 percent Cabernet Franc and 7 percent Cabernet Sauvignon is aged in less than two-thirds new oak, allowing its purity and freshness to shine. This 2015 matches the classic scores earned by the 2010 and 2009, while its price makes it a great value in ageworthy Bordeaux. 6,250 cases made. 3 CASTELLO DI VOLPAIA Chianti Classico Riserva 2015…

Wine is rooted in tradition, yet many factors can force wine regions to evolve. Changing climate conditions, shifting tastes and rising land prices all challenge producers to refine their grape sources and winemaking practices. Those who best identify the right grapes for their terroir are ideally positioned to deliver exciting yet affordable wines year after year. Some thrive in established areas where grapegrowing has existed for centuries. Others are more recent upstarts on the global wine scene. Yet all have committed themselves to production methods that yield the highest quality in the most cost-effective way. This is how great values are born. The diverse group of wines in this year’s annual roundup of 100 top values shows just how widespread this commitment is. All of them are rated 88 points…

Passion, natural beauty, tradition, life … the 10 wines deemed the most exciting of 2017 encapsulate all these aspects and more. K Vintners founder Charles Smith’s declaration of the things he wants in his wine struck a chord with the vintners and wine drinkers at the Top 10 tastings. Maybe not every one seeks “rock ’n’ roll” in what they drink, but surely we hope to find goodness, tenderness, love and laughter when we share our favorites with one another. Each year, Wine Spectator editors present readers with the 100 wines that most excited them, combining quality, value, availability and the intangible “X-factor.” It all starts with a list of wines that rated 90 points or higher that year. “Going from [more than 5,500 wines] to 100 is not an…

José Andrés ThinkFoodGroup, Washington, D.C. Cauliflower Cream With Truffle and Caviar LAGASSE’S WINE: Joseph Drouhin Chassagne-Montrachet Embazees 2015 MATTHEWS’ WINE: Veuve Clicquot Brut Champagne La Grande Dame 2008 Emeril Lagasse Emeril’s, New Orleans Daube Glace With Apple-Horseradish Salad CARBONE’S WINE: Copain Syrah Yorkville Highlands Tous Ensemble 2015 MATTHEWS’ WINE: Louis Jadot Moulin-a-Vent CHÂTEAU des Jacques La Roche 2015 Ti Martin Commander’s Palace, New Orleans Cayenne-Smoked Redfish Salad ANDRES’ WINE: Bodegas Itsas-Mendi Bizkaiko Txakolina 7 2015 MATTHEWS’ WINE: Domaines Ott Bandol Rose CHÂTEAU Romassan 2017 Mario Carbone The Grill, New York Country Terrine With Foie Gras MARTIN’S WINE: Catherine & Pierre Breton Bourgueil Trinch! 2016 MATTHEWS’ WINE: Clos Fourtet St.-Emilion 2015…

99 Quinta do Noval Vintage Port Nacional 2016 $1,000 PORTUGAL This is a tumble of personalities right now, with intense blackberry, plum, fig and boysenberry compote flavors lending a showy feel, while a wave of bramble, tar and dark earth notes impart muscle and heft. Shows a brooding edge, with Turkish coffee and baker’s chocolate details dominating the finish, where formidable grip keeps things grounded and riveted. Got any kids born in 2016? Best from 2035 through 2060. 170 cases made.—J.M. 98 Graham Vintage Port The Stone Terraces 2016 $230 PORTUGAL Lush and captivating in feel, with a velvety flow to the mix of plum, blackberry, boysenberry and acai berry compote flavors. A bold streak of licorice runs through the finish, underscored by a brambly note that imparts balance. A…

90 Bodegas Carlos Serres Rioja Crianza 2015 $13 SPAIN This supple red is balanced and expressive. Cherry, vanilla, orange peel and spice notes mingle over light tannins, supported by citrusy acidity. Not a big wine, but has focus and energy. Drink now through 2025. 2,500 cases made.—T.M. 89 Chozas Carrascal Utiel-Requena Las Dos Ces 2016 $9 SPAIN This crisp red shows bright flavors of berry and tart cherry backed by leafy and smoky notes. Light tannins and lively acidity give this focus and freshness. Balanced and juicy. Bobal. Drink now through 2024. 20,000 cases made.—T.M. 89 Matua Pinot Noir Marlborough 2016 $13 NEW ZEALAND White pepper and dried sage notes are juicy and refreshing in this red, set against a background of silky smooth pomegranate and wild strawberry flavors. A…

This issue showcases our selections of the Top 100 Wines of 2018. The first list appeared 30 years ago, in 1988. The world has changed a lot since then! And yet, in wine, much remains the same. Angelo Gaja, the great vintner from Barbaresco, placed four wines in our first Top 20. Stalwarts Ridge and Spotteswoode were the two highest-ranking California Cabernets. Our Wine of the Year was CHÂTEAU Lynch-Bages, a classic Bordeaux that today is better than ever. When we compare the two eras, what strikes us most is the remarkable increase in diversity. In 1988, 45 of the Top 100 came from France; this year, France’s share of the global spotlight totals just 19. In 1988, the only wine from the Southern Hemisphere was a Chardonnay from New…

The Master Sommelier certification, which has become a symbol of high achievement in the restaurant and hospitality industries, became embroiled in intrigue and heartbreak Oct. 9. The board of directors for the organization that administers the test in the United States, the Court of Master Sommeliers Americas, announced it would be voiding the results of its 2018 deductive blind-tasting exam, which was held in September. Chairman Devon Broglie announced in an email to organization members that the board had received “a report from outside legal counsel” that a Master Sommelier had improperly disclosed information about the wines in the blind tasting. The board chose, in a unanimous vote, to invalidate the Master Sommelier title for all 23 diploma recipients who had passed the tasting portion in 2018. “We reached this…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 93 Alban Syrah Edna Valley Patrina Alban Estate 2015 $48 CALIFORNIA Dark and potently built, with expressive blackberry, pepper beef and fig aromas leading to brooding flavors that build toward broad-shouldered tannins. COLLECTIBLE 98 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2016 $120 PORTUGAL This is packed with raspberry, blackberry and blueberry fruit flavors, melding with anise, fruitcake and ganache notes. A seriously grippy, strapping Port, reveling in its power. SMART BUY 91 Hugel Riesling Alsace Classic 2016 $24 FRANCE A sleek, minerally, light-bodied white, with lemon peel and petrol accents to the flavors of apricot, acacia blossom, almond and pine forest. BEST VALUE 89 Chozas Carrascal Utiel-Requena Las Dos Ces 2016 $9 SPAIN This crisp red is balanced and juicy, with bright flavors of berry and tart cherry backed by…

This year’s Top 100 marks a return to the blue-chip wines from classic regions around the globe, augmented by an exciting group of up-and-coming stars. It also reflects the wine world’s ever-growing diversity, with innovative wine styles claiming more spots than in previous years. It’s an exciting list of wines, chosen from the thousands tasted blind by Wine Spectator’s editors in 2018. Most of all, our annual Top 100 is a synopsis of the year in wine. California, France and Italy make up nearly 60 percent of the list, a reflection of the high quality of their recent vintages. The remainder of the United States, represented by Oregon and Washington, accounts for 11 percent, while Spanish wines occupy eight places in our 2018 honor roll. And more than half of…

2017 1 Duckhorn Merlot Napa Valley Three Palms Vineyard 2014 ($98) | CALIFORNIA 95 2 K Syrah Walla Walla Valley Powerline Estate 2014 ($45) | WASHINGTON 95 3 CHÂTEAU Coutet Barsac 2014 ($37) | FRANCE 96 4 Casanova di Neri Brunello di Montalcino 2012 ($65) | ITALY 95 5 CHÂTEAU de St.-Cosme Gigondas 2015 ($43) | FRANCE 96 6 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Mont 2016 ($44) | FRANCE 95 7 CHÂTEAU Canon-La Gaffeliere St.-Emilion 2014 ($61) | FRANCE 95 8 Meyer Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2014 ($70) | CALIFORNIA 95 9 Pahlmeyer Chardonnay Napa Valley 2015 ($75) | CALIFORNIA 95 10 Booker Oublie Paso Robles 2014 ($80) | CALIFORNIA 95 2016 1 Lewis Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2013 ($90) | CALIFORNIA 95 2 Domaine Serene Chardonnay Dundee Hills Evenstad…

Bodega Catena Zapata Nicola Catena planted his first Malbec vineyard in 1902, but it wasn’t until the 1980s that third-generation owner Nicolas Catena Zapata began focusing on planting in Mendoza’s high-elevation sites. Nicolas was also instrumental in the discovery, identification and development of numerous microclimates within Mendoza. Today, the winery has six estate vineyards ranging from 3,000 to 5,000 feet of elevation. Fourth-generation vintner Laura Catena has furthered the family’s commitment to the discovery of the region, establishing the Catena Institute of Wine in 1995. Since then, the Catenas have conducted extensive research into better understanding Argentina’s terroir. 95 Malbec Mendoza Adrianna Vineyard Fortuna Terrae 2014 $140 92 Malbec La Consulta Nicasia Vineyard 2015 $115 91 Chardonnay Mendoza Alta 2016 $35 Viña Cobos Paul Hobbs’ career as one of California’s…

Bright and refreshing, these crisp, light-bodied whites offer more diversity than ever, as a growing number of producers around the world opt for a fresher, more vibrant style. Hugely successful transplants such as Sauvignon Blanc in New Zealand and Riesling in Australia have pushed the envelope in terms of value, while winemakers in France, Italy and Spain have dug deep to raise the quality of their traditional native varieties. 91 $19 PEWSEY VALE Riesling Eden Valley Dry 2017 Australia This is distinctively snappy and bright, offering fleshy grapefruit, green apple and passion fruit flavors that have tremendous concentration. (M.W.) 91 $14 WITHER HILLS Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2017 New Zealand Honeysuckle, peach cobbler and Key lime pie notes are aromatic, lush and expressive, set on a crisp, sleek frame, with plenty…

THE SOMMELIER’S ATLAS OF TASTE: A Field Guide to the Great Wines of Europe By Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay (Ten Speed Press, 352 pages, $40) Authors Rajat Parr and Jordan Mackay offer a remarkably cogent and evenhanded treatise on terroir, the French notion of how a sense of place affects wine. Pooh-poohed by some as mere marketing, terroir is venerated by others, including Parr, as one of the critical factors to understanding what makes great wines taste as they do. An accomplished sommelier who now runs the wineries Domaine de la Cote and Sandhi in California, and Evening Land Vineyards in Oregon, Parr is a terroir believer with a skeptic’s understanding of the science surrounding it. Mackay, a veteran wine and food writer, co-authored Secrets of the Sommeliers with Parr…

MARK BIXLER (1941–2017) Kistler founder Mark Bixler provided the business foundation for his Sonoma winery’s success DAVIS BYNUM (1925–2017) Visionary newspaper reporter–turned-vintner Davis Bynum made Russian River Valley’s first single-vineyard Pinot Noir NORBERT GOLDNER (1940–2018) Cafe l’Europe chef and co-owner Norbert Goldner ran his landmark Palm Beach restaurant and an outstanding wine program for 37 years PAUL BOCUSE (1926–2018) Eminent French chef Paul Bocuse was a world-renowned innovator and pioneer of Nouvelle Cuisine AUGUSTE CLAPE (1925–2018) From his small family estate, Auguste Clape turned the Cornas appellation into a source of world-class Syrah PATRICIA GREEN (1955–2017) Former Torii Mor winemaker Patricia Green founded her eponymous winery in Oregon in 2000 ANTHONY BOURDAIN (1956–2018) Chef, author and TV host Anthony Bourdain revealed the hard work and hard living of the cooks…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. James Laube California Harvey Steiman At large Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Loire Valley, Port, South Africa MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison…

ARGENTINA Malbec & Blends 93 Rutini Malbec Uco Valley Single Vineyard Gualtallary 2014 $55 Powerful and concentrated, with deep and well-structured flavors of dark cherry, roasted dark plum and kirsch, backed by vibrant acidity. Dried green herb and olive notes show on the richly spiced finish. Drink now through 2024. 800 cases made.—K.M. 92 Bodega Catena Zapata Malbec La Consulta Nicasia Vineyard 2015 $115 Rich pepper notes accent the well-defined and luscious dark plum, red berry and currant flavors. Notes of hot stone show midpalate, with a fine-grained, mineral-filled finish. Drink now through 2021. Tasted twice, with consistent notes. 1,040 cases made.—K.M. 92 Rutini Encuentro Barrel Blend Uco Valley 2013 $45 A lively blend of red fruit and spice flavors, refined and elegant. Peppery notes midpalate lead to a finish…

To be a New Yorker in Southern California is to be disoriented by the steady stream of sunshine and gorgeous produce—particularly in winter, when the difference can be stark. “In New York, the produce is amazing, but you definitely have a very, very small window of seasonality,” says Chris Flint, erstwhile New Yorker and current executive chef of the new NoMad Los Angeles hotel. “My team and I are always surprised by how seasons work out here and how long certain ingredients can last for.” In 2012, Flint was on the opening team of the original Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence–winning NoMad in Manhattan before becoming chef de cuisine of the Grand Award–winning Eleven Madison Park, both part of the Make It Nice hospitality group. When the group’s…

Italian Inspiration “Piedmont’s Powerful Women” (cover, Oct. 31) was an overdue tribute to these talented women, many of whom started in the business at a young age, 20 to 30 years ago. I was already enchanted with Piedmontese wines when I attended one of the early U.S. “Barolo Boys” tours in 1991. On this tour, two of the producers had brought their daughters along. I realize that perhaps these fathers may not have been enthusiastic about handing things over to a daughter, and many of the daughters fought hard to earn their place. That singular tasting was a turning point for me when I decided that I too wanted to be in the Italian wine business. So these women not only opened a door for other women in Piedmont, but…

While some travelers love winter activities like skiing, others can’t wait to get out of the cold weather and into the sun. We’ve compiled a few ideas for destinations that’ll keep you warm for the coming months, accompanied by the hot spots to visit while you’re there, from newly renovated hotels to wine-centric restaurants and more. They’re guaranteed to beat your winter doldrums. Australia D’Arenberg winery (darenberg.com.au) in McLaren Vale has set itself apart with the intriguing five-story Rubik’s Cube–shaped structure that emerged among its vines in December 2017. The d’Arenberg Cube contains tasting rooms, interactive wine exhibits and a fine-dining restaurant with a 480-selection wine list. Visitors can even bottle a personal blend from barrel samples of single-vineyard Shiraz. —Julie Harans Wickens at Royal Mail Hotel (royalmail.com.au), the Wine Spectator…

In California, Oregon and Washington, the issue of weed vs. wine is touching a deep cultural nerve. If you haven’t been to California lately, you’re in for a big surprise. Wine continues to be the main draw for many visitors, a major focal point for commerce and tourism. But there’s a dark horse in the race. Consider it the green stallion. I’m referring to the surge in popularity of cannabis, which is turning many parts of our society topsy-turvy. While cannabis is still illegal in most states, carrying hefty fines or even jail time, possession is legal in California and a dozen other states, several of them also committed to winegrowing. Therein lies the conflict. California, Oregon and Washington are all venues where weed vs. wine has become a point…

97 points | $245 | 17,200 cases made Sassicaia, like many of the best things in life, began as an experiment, a passion project that came to fruition thanks to good fortune and hard work. The wine began in the 1940s as a homemade red crafted by a curious Renaissance man trying to emulate Bordeaux on his Bolgheri estate near the Tuscan coast. It became the prototype of the nascent Bolgheri region, inspiring many others while establishing itself as one of the great wines of Tuscany and Italy. And now, in 2018, 50 years after the wine’s first commercial vintage, Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri-Sassicaia Sassicaia 2015 is Wine Spectator’s Wine of the Year. Sassicaia is an iconic wine, as blue-chip as first-growth Bordeaux, grand cru Burgundy or Napa Valley cult…

Wine Spectator editors reviewed more than 15,000 newly released wines in 2018. From this pool, we chose the Top 100. These are the year’s most noteworthy wines, based on four criteria: high score, large production, value pricing and an X-factor we call excitement. We recommend these wines as outstanding representatives of their types. ABOUT THE 100-POINT SCALE Ratings reflect how highly our tasters regard each wine relative to other wines. The rating summarizes a wine’s overall quality; to determine if the wine’s style and character appeal to you, check its complete tasting note in the Buying Guide or at www.winespectator.com. 95–100 Classic: a great wine 90–94 Outstanding: a wine of superior character and style 85–89 Very good: a wine with special qualities 80–84 Good: a solid, well-made wine 75–79 Mediocre:…

This category of riper, fuller-bodied whites is still associated most closely with Chardonnay, which yields expressive versions from throughout the New World, yet there are many other wines from an array of regions that also offer richness and intensity balanced by vibrancy and structure. The range of grapes native to southern France—Viognier, Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc, and others—are producing more and more outstanding examples. 91 $15 BODEGAS NAIA Rueda 2017 Spain A sleek, firm texture carries harmonious flavors of pear, mint, tarragon and mineral in this lively white, showing balance and depth. Verdejo. (T.M.) 91 $17 TERENZUOLA Vermentino Colli di Luni-Tuscany Vigne Basse 2017 Italy Rich and intensely flavored, boasting peach, grapefruit, earth and wild herb aromas and flavors. Harmonious, with a minerally aftertaste. (B.S.) 90 $20 ATTEMS Pinot Grigio…

There’s no sign that the world’s thirst for rosé is slowing down. This is a category in which there’s always something for everyone, since styles vary widely and prices are typically low. A steady stream of delicious versions continues to pour forth from southern France, while regions such as Spain and California offer alternatives to the popular Provence style. 90 $17 GERARD BERTRAND Grenache-Syrah-Cinsault Languedoc Rose Cote des Roses 2017 France Clean and fresh, this Provence-style rose offers a delicate, balanced profile of white raspberry, cherry and lemon zest notes. (G.S.) 90 $20 CHÂTEAU DES BERTRANDS Cotes de Provence Rose Elegance Reserve 2017 France Very fresh, with light herb and wet stone notes carrying peach, mango and white cherry fruit flavors. Cinsault, Grenache, Syrah and Rolle. (J.M.) 89 $13 MARQUES…

When Mark Tarlov introduced his Chapter 24 Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Last Chapter 2015 to the audience at the 2018 New York Wine Experience, he began with a quote from famed American physicist Richard Feynman: “If we look at a glass of wine closely enough we see the entire universe.” Feynman’s point was that there is a world of detail in a glass of wine, from the physics of the tears that form when it’s swirled to the geology of the rocks its vines grow among. Tarlov used the idea as a launching point to dive into the details of Chapter 24’s vineyards. Speaking to the same crowd a few hours earlier, pro golfer and vintner Cristie Kerr cited attention to detail as the key to success in both golf…

97 Smith Woodhouse Vintage Port 2016 $82 PORTUGAL A serious Port in the making, with dark currant paste, warmed fig sauce and blackberry reduction flavors pouring through. The brambly grip is deeply embedded and there are gorgeous ganache and licorice snap notes hanging on the finish. Hefty and broad, yet this has cut and energy in reserve. Best from 2035 through 2055. 1,500 cases made.—J.M. 95 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills Flat Block 2016 $60 OREGON Deeply structured, yet seamlessly rich and polished, with spirited cherry blossom and raspberry aromas that open to fervent rhubarb, savory tea and cardamom flavors, building toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2025. 90 cases made.—T.F. 95 Luiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2015 $30 ITALY A fresh, detailed style, exhibiting cherry, black currant, licorice, leather…

92 Vecchia Cantina di Montepulciano Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Incanto 2015 $20 ITALY This is expressive, offering ripe plum, cherry, licorice and tar flavors. Features some dense tannins, but the overall impression is of sweet fruit. Finishes with a kick of black pepper and oak spice. Best from 2021 through 2035. 5,000 cases made.—B.S. 92 Vietti Nebbiolo Langhe Perbacco 2015 $26 ITALY White pepper, cherry, tea, juniper and tobacco flavors dissolve into a swath of tannins that leave a grip on the finish. Though elegant, this feels more like a Barolo in profile and structure. Best from 2020 through 2030. 3,500 cases made.—B.S. 91 Clos de los Siete Uco Valley 2015 $20 ARGENTINA Offers a lithe and well-cut blend of cherry, dried berry, currant and spice box flavors that mesh…

1 97 Tenuta San Guido Bolgheri-Sassicaia Sassicaia 2015 $245 Rich and concentrated, this red features black currant, blackberry, violet, mineral and spice flavors. Dense yet lively, structured yet impeccably balanced, with vibrant acidity driving the long, fruit-filled aftertaste. The oak is beautifully integrated. Cabernet Sauvignon and Cabernet Franc. Best from 2023 through 2042. 17,200 cases made.—B.S. (7/31/2018) 2 96 CHÂTEAU Canon-La Gaffeliere St.-Emilion 2015 $84 Still youthfully tight and backward, with a well-roasted frame of alder and juniper holding sway for now, but the core of cassis, blackberry and plum fruit waits in reserve, showing prodigious depth. When the toast and fruit melds, the backdrop of tobacco, singed iron and chalky minerality will get a turn to show. There’s a lot here. Built for the cellar. Merlot, Cabernet Franc and…