Indholdsfortegnelse for April 30, 2019 i Wine Spectator

Visit WineSpectator.com/043019 to find links to all the following resources. FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS SPRING ENTERTAINING Celebrate the change of seasons with fresh new recipes from some of the country’s best chefs. Whether you’re celebrating Passover, Easter, a birthday or an an-niversary, we’ll make it easy and delicious, with meals just right for milder weather and our editors’ picks of highly rated wines. PRIVATE GUIDE TO DINING Our free, twice-monthly email newsletter spotlights the best restaurants for wine lovers, from bucket-list destinations to perfect pizza places. Get great wine picks for dining out, keep on top of drinks trends, learn about new restaurant openings and more. Sign up! WINE SPECTATOR VIDEO Watch all our informative wine tips, winemaker interviews and tastings on your desktop, laptop, tablet or phone.…

Though 2018 was a volatile year for Wall Street, it was a winning year for wine auctions. Bidders paid record prices for a host of rarities, ranging from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti Romanée-Conti 1945 to Sassicaia 1985. Worldwide wine-auction totals (culled from sales conducted in the United States, United Kingdom, Geneva, Hong Kong and Shanghai markets, plus online) rose 26 percent to $479.1 million, up from $381.7 million in 2017, and narrowly eclipsing the previous global record of $478 million in 2011. Performance was strong across all four quarters of the year. Sales in the U.S. climbed nearly 20 percent from 2017 to $220.6 million. The combined London and Geneva markets rose 12 percent to $46.4 million. Hong Kong and Shanghai soared 40 percent to a combined $137.2 million. Online…

The rugged eastern flanks of Napa Valley are studded with volcanic boulders and palisades that help define many storied vineyard districts, such as Stags Leap and Pritchard Hill. One of the more remote and least known is Atlas Peak, though its name may be familiar for other reasons. One of the biggest wine country fires of 2017 started near its summit; the Atlas Fire eventually took six lives, burned more than 51,000 acres and destroyed hundreds of homes. Recently, I took the winding road up to the heart of Atlas Peak to see the Antica Napa Valley estate of Tuscan icon Piero Antinori. I made the trek because of the challenges the project has posed for Antinori and also for curiosity’s sake—I had never visited Atlas Peak before, despite living…

When it comes to white grapes from Italy, Pinot Bianco may be the country’s best-kept secret, making pure, elegant and harmonious wines. Known as Pinot Blanc in France and Weissbur-gunder in Germany, Pinot Bianco is part of the Pinot family tree, the largest group of grape varieties in the world. It is a genetic mutation of Pinot Noir. Outside Italy, the grape is popular in Germany’s Baden region (12,671 acres), the Alsace region of France (7,054 acres) and Austria (4,868 acres). Pinot Bianco commands only 1,334 acres in Italy’s Trentino–Alto Adige, yet the wines have distinctive character and deliver on value. At its best, Pinot Bianco is delicate but not fragile, with aromas of spring blossoms, citrus and apple, and a refreshing palate, with citrus, orchard fruit and mineral notes.…

The old Land Rover rattles and groans up the rutted path, here and there breaking through sun-dappled forest into vineyards. Tuscany is not all stately villas set in manicured gardens—up in the hills, much of it feels like wilderness. A nearby vineyard is rooted in a light-colored soil. “This is all old seabeds,” explains Elisabetta Fagiuoli, the proprietor of Montenidoli, one of San Gimignano’s historic and leading estates. “This is where the white wine comes from.” San Gimignano is the spiritual home of Vernaccia, an ancient white grape that thrives within the 1,780-acre DOCG. Vernaccia makes some of the best white wines in Italy, and if not for its tiny area of production, it would be a lot more familiar to wine lovers in the United States. Vernaccia from San…

The red grape Aglianico is to southern Italy what Nebbiolo is to Piedmont and Sangiovese is to Tuscany: a signature variety whose centuries of cultivation tie it tightly to the local landscape and which produces wines of distinctive character. Two regions account for the vast majority of the world’s roughly 25,000 acres of Aglianico. Campania grows more than two-thirds; the area around Mount Vulture in Basilicata accounts for most of the rest. Less than 10 percent of total acreage is spread among northern Puglia, Molise and Calabria. In general, Aglianico wines layer flavors of dark fruit—berries, cherry and currant—with aromatic characteristics that include floral violet and rose, herb, tobacco and spice. A minerally underpinning is typically present, more smoky in Campania’s versions versus an ashy quality in Basilicata’s. Aglianico features…

90 La Braccesca Rosso di Montepulciano Sabazio 2016 $15 ITALY An enticing smoky note overlays the cherry, strawberry and floral aromas and flavors. Elegance and harmony are the hallmarks here, with an aftertaste that picks up leather and tobacco elements. Drink now through 2023. 1,000 cases imported.—B.S. 90 Vina Bujanda Rioja Crianza 2015 $15 SPAIN This lithe red is bright and energetic. Fresh cherry and red plum flavors mingle with leafy, licorice and vanilla notes, backed by light tannins and tangerine acidity. Supple and graceful. Drink now through 2025. 35,000 cases made.—T.M. 90 Yealands Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Peter Yealands 2018 $15 NEW ZEALAND Impressively concentrated, featuring tangy peach and melon flavors that mingle with a citrusy core and a smooth, polished finish. Fresh acidity and pops of fresh herbs emerge…

Wine drinkers who love Italy know Tuscany and Piedmont. The top red wines from these regions, based on Sangiovese and Nebbiolo, respectively, are renowned worldwide. But Italy grows hundreds of other grapes and today the country’s winemakers are producing a wide range of red and white wines of high quality and distinctive character. This issue’s cover story spotlights six grapes that deserve your attention alongside Brunello and Barolo. Senior editors Alison Napjus and Bruce Sanderson, our lead tasters for Italy, have selected three white and three red grapes to profile. They range from Pinot Bianco in the Alpine north to Nero d’Avola on the southern island of Sicily. For each grape, some benchmark producers and their wines are featured, to guide your discovery. In Italy, as in most historic vineyard…

Golden State This quintet expresses the diversity on offer today from California. Wines from Sonoma and Santa Barbara showcase these major areas, while a regional blend from Northern California adds something new to the mix with its combination of Grenache, Petite Sirah, Syrah and Merlot. Even better, they come with affordable price tags. TENSLEY Syrah Santa Barbara County 2017 (93, $28) Vibrant, layered; raspberry, blueberry, garrigue, mineral, cracked pepper 689 CELLARS Killer Drop California 2015 (90, $25) Black cherry, licorice, mocha, black pepper; broad, expressive SAN SIMEON Viognier Paso Robles Stefano Vineyard 2017 (90, $22) Succulent, fleshy; floral, honey, dried apricot, mango MARTIN RAY Sauvignon Blanc Russian River Valley 2017 (89, $18) Mango, peach, lime; juicy, expressive CLINE Pinot Noir Sonoma County 2017 (87, $15) Crisp; red fruit, cinnamon, white…

Despite deep historical roots and broad international reknown, the best Bordeaux estates are restless innovators, tweaking vinification and viticultural techniques, employing technology and acquired experience to hone the fine details of their wines. A number of châteaus that best embody this forward-looking process are clustered on the limestone plateau around the town of St.-Emilion: Bélair-Monange, Canon, Canon-La-Gaffelière, La Gaffelière, Clos Fourtet and Beau-Séjour Bécot to name a few. Château Troplong-Mondot now joins this group. Though it has long been a quality leader in the appellation, new ownership has accelerated the pace of innovation there. The estate is home to the prominent water tower that marks the plateau’s highest point, 350 feet in elevation. Troplong (for short) totals 65 acres of vines producing an average of 10,000 cases annually, a solid…

Barbera had its coming-of-age party in 1982. That’s when the late Giacomo Bologna, a visionary winemaker from the Asti region, transformed the traditional understanding of the grape. Bologna decided to harvest his Barbera grapes from the Bricco dell’Uccellone vineyard later than usual. He aged the wine in barriques, half of which were new oak, for 15 months, then kept it in bottle for an additional year before release. The locals were outraged, but the world loved the wine. Vintners in Piedmont began to reexamine their approach to Barbera. High in natural acidity and low in tannins, Barbera can result in thin, sharp wines, particularly if the high-yielding variety isn’t kept under control. In the right hands today, it makes a range of wines, from elegant versions showing pure violet, cherry,…

“I can’t explain it scientifically, but I think Vermentino needs to feel the maritime climate, the salt air,” says Luca Marrone, who makes Vermentino at two properties near Italy’s Mediterranean coast. Geographically, his notion is supported by Vermentino’s presence along the coastlines of Liguria and Tuscany, on the island of Sardinia, and on the French island of Corsica, where 80 percent of France’s Vermentino is found. In general, Vermentino wines range from light to medium in body, with oily texture and aromas and flavors of citrus and peach, as well as notes of apricot if the grape is picked late. Distinctive pine, petrol and balsamic notes of sage, juniper and laurel abound, along with a notable mineral character. That said, the grape expresses itself in different ways depending on where…

The question of which grapes will produce the best value wines from which regions is not always easy to answer. That means wine lovers looking for affordable options often simply fall back on their assumptions. Some grape varieties, you think, are too high-end to yield well-priced versions, while others, though typically less expensive, don’t seem to deliver high-enough quality to qualify as real values. Across the New World, however, producers have found innovative ways to do both at the same time: Keep prices down while raising quality. We don’t intuitively associate international superstars such as Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Chardonnay with value, but as the New World has expanded the map for these grapes, producers around the globe have crafted value bottlings from these powerhouse varieties. Likewise, less familiar…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. James Laube California Harvey Steiman At large Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Loire Valley, Port, South Africa MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison…

ARGENTINA 94 Cuvelier Los Andes El Cuvelier Los Andes Uco Valley 2013 $120 A powerful red, featuring sanguine and minerally notes to the ripe dark fruit and spice flavors. Mocha and dark chocolate details emerge midpalate, with a creamy, rich-tasting finish. Malbec, Syrah and Merlot. Drink now through 2021. 250 cases made, 100 cases imported.—K.M. 93 Cuvelier Los Andes Grand Malbec Uco Valley 2015 $60 Refined and minerally, featuring medium-grained tannins behind the dark plum, blackberry and dark currant flavors. Slate and spice details show on the pure-tasting finish, with peppery accents. Drink now through 2024. 834 cases made, 300 cases imported.—K.M. 93 Bodegas Salentein Malbec Uco Valley Pr1mum 2015 $65 This is fleshy and rich, with wellspiced plum tart, raspberry and dark cherry flavors that are well-structured. Redolent of…

GERMANY Riesling / Auslese 96 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Auslese Gold Cap Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2017 $159 See Collectibles, page 92. 95 Joh. Jos. Prum Riesling Auslese Gold Cap Mosel Graacher Himmelreich 2017 $141 A beautifully sculpted and compelling sweetie, concentrated yet light-footed and defined by a lively structure, with bright acidity behind the intense flavors of dried apricot, clementine, violet-walnut conserve and mineral. Displays terrific harmony, followed by an ethereal, marathon finish. Best from 2023 through 2043. 25 cases imported.—A.Z. 95 Selbach-Oster Riesling Auslese Mosel Rotlay 2017 $61 See Highly Recommended, page 91. 94 Selbach-Oster Riesling Auslese Mosel Anrecht 2017 $46 Pure and elegant, displaying seductive flavors of peach jam, apple sauce and pistachio ice cream, loaded with sweet spicy notes of cinnamon and nutmeg. The finish goes on…

Swiss Bliss It is very gratifying to see Wine Spectator acknowledge that the Swiss make some fine wines (Wine Focus, Jan. 31 – Feb 28). Over the years I have spent a lot of time at our family château near Neuchâtel and have tasted most of [that region’s] fine wines. I would recommend some of the great reds made from the Humagne Rouge grape. When you travel in Switzerland don’t hesitate to visit many of the small wineries and enjoy their wines. Ron Fick Dillon, Mont. Ice, Ice, Baby I was in disbelief when I read James Laube’s article titled “Ice Age” (columns, Oct. 31, 2018). He put forth that the best way to preserve leftover wine is to freeze it and then thaw it out later to enjoy it…

Earlier this season, New Orleans Pelicans’ Jrue Holiday (pictured) promised to buy teammate Nikola Mirotic a bottle of wine every time he scored 30 points or more. Mirotic quickly earned a bottle of McEvoy Ranch Montepulciano 2014. Samantha Dorsey, general manger at the Petaluma, Calif.,–based McEvoy, invited the team for a tasting and dinner in January while they were in town for a game against Golden State. Pelicans coach Alvin Gentry called it, “One of the best experiences on a road trip.” In turn, the Pelicans invited Dorsey to the following night’s game. Mirotic was traded in February, so he’ll have to find a new enophile teammate.…

When the history of the modern artisan cheese movement is written, it will undoubtedly include a chapter on Judy Schad. Over the course of more than three decades, Schad has earned the respect and admiration of peers and customers alike, persevering under the unlikeliest of circumstances and setting a standard to rival the best France has to offer. With a handful of other “American goat ladies,” Schad built an industry and created a market, along the way providing much inspiration and generous guidance to fellow artisans. The bittersweet decision to sell her herd to a family farm in 2012 freed Schad to focus solely on cheesemaking. She still sources milk from there, and her cheeses are better than ever. Their foundation is a world-class fresh chèvre, which features an irresistible…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 97 SAXUM James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles Willow Creek District 2016 $98 CALIFORNIA Plush, polished and dynamic, with blackberry, violet, garrigue, stone and pepper flavors that build richness toward refined tannins. Grenache blend. COLLECTIBLE 98 ANTINORI Toscana Solaia 2015 $320 ITALY Floral, mint and medicinal herb aromas introduce this rich, black currant–infused red, which is firm and compact, with vibrant structure and youthful harmony. Cabernet Sauvignon blend. SMART BUY 90 VINA BUJANDA Rioja Crianza 2015 $15 SPAIN This lithe red is bright and energetic, with fresh cherry and red plum flavors mingling with leafy, licorice and vanilla notes. Supple and graceful. BEST VALUE 90 YEALANDS Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Peter Yealands 2018 $15 NEW ZEALAND Impressively concentrated, this version features tangy peach and melon flavors that mix with a…

ITALY is a treasure trove for wine lovers. Several of its growing regions and grape varieties are household names of course—few serious wine drinkers haven’t plundered the Sangioveses of Tuscany, the Nebbiolos of Piedmont. But enophiles would also do well to explore the myriad other vineyard nooks up and down the boot, and the bounty of underappreciated grapes they hold. Here, we highlight six less-familiar grapes—three reds and three whites—making distinctive wines in less-traveled regions. We describe their attributes, explain where they thrive and how they express themselves in wines. We recommend standout producers and also guide you to some cultural and culinary gems to experience should you make a visit. We hope you’ll discover some new favorites in the following pages. (Note: Prices at venues featured in this story…

The island of Sicily contains a multitude of landscapes, from coastal plains to rolling inland hills to the craggy peak of Mount Etna. Nero d’Avola, Sicily’s most widely planted red grape, thrives across the island. “In Sicily, the vines grow from sea level to more than 3,000 feet, in different soils and exposures,” says Alberto Tasca d’Almerita of his family’s historic Tasca d’Almerita winery. “In this paradise, the king of red vines is Nero d’Avola, which grows with success in all areas [of Sicily], but with different characteristics.” Sicily encompasses 98 percent of the world’s plantings of Nero d’Avola, which represents roughly a fifth of the island’s vineyard acreage. Ironically, the grape is officially known as Calabrese, suggesting the vines were first planted in Calabria. In general, Nero d’Avola wines…

Recent vintages have been kind to vintners in Barolo. A successful string between 2010 and 2013 gave wine lovers plenty to choose from, either for nearterm enjoyment or to stock up for the future. The more recent set of vintages, from 2015 through 2018, also show excellent potential. Right in the middle is 2014, the current release for Barolo. This was a year that posed significant challenges for vintners: Rain and cool temperatures persisted throughout the growing season, and three hail storms had localized but devastating effects. All of this, however, was offset by benevolent weather conditions in September and October that proved ideal for the late-ripening Nebbiolo grape. During a trip to the region in April 2018, I visited a number of top estates and sampled dozens of their…

98 Pierre Gelin Chambertin Clos de Beze 2016 $270 FRANCE Expressive and complex, offering black currant, black cherry, licorice, spice, smoke and mineral aromas and flavors. Tightens up on the finish, a good sign in this youthful red Burgundy. The long aftertaste shows its future potential. Best from 2023 through 2043. 138 cases made.—B.S. 97 Louis Jadot Clos Vougeot Domaine 2016 $238 FRANCE Rose, cherry and spice aromas introduce this light-bodied, saturated version. The flavors add wild strawberry, incense and kirsch notes, while remaining persistent on the kaleidoscopic finish. Feels tense now, yet should develop nicely over time. A mineral element lingers. Best from 2023 through 2045. 900 cases made.—B.S. 97 Saxum James Berry Vineyard Paso Robles Willow Creek District 2016 $98 CALIFORNIA Plush, polished and dynamic, with complexly layered…

95 Tensley Syrah Santa Barbara County Colson Canyon Vineyard 2017 $42 CALIFORNIA Deeply structured yet rich and polished, with smoked meat, huckleberry and garrigue notes that jaunt toward big but refined tannins on the finish. Drink now through 2028. 1,950 cases made.—T.F. 94 Sans Liege The Offering Santa Barbara County 2016 $29 CALIFORNIA Distinctive, refined and well-built, offering expressive black cherry, cigar box, green olive and cured meat accents that build richness on the long finish. Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Viognier. Drink now through 2026. 2,450 cases made.—T.F. 93 Bedrock Zinfandel California Old Vine 2017 $25 CALIFORNIA Old-school meets new in this Zinfandel, with just enough polish and plumpness to match the briary rusticity. Offers expressive black cherry, smoky anise and white pepper flavors. Drink now through 2024. 4,000 cases…

96 Domaine Faiveley Corton Clos des Cortons Faiveley 2016 $300 The serious depth is held in reserve for now, offering black cherry, black currant, incense, earth and mineral flavors. This supple red is balanced by fleshy fruit up front, with the buried structure emerging on the finish. Reveals a terrific aftertaste of graphite, licorice and mineral. Best from 2023 through 2042. 1,500 cases made, 160 cases imported.—B.S. 95 Louis Jadot Corton Pougets Domaine des Heritiers 2016 $138 Deep, rich and spicy, this red evokes a pleasant earthiness underlying the cherry and strawberry fruit. Firm tannins uphold the long aftertaste, while overall there is harmony and complexity. Fresh, juicy finish. Best from 2022 through 2038. 525 cases made, 75 cases imported.—B.S. 95 Tollot-Beaut Corton-Bressandes 2016 $170 Very pure, exhibiting black cherry,…

NEW ZEALAND 92 Villa Maria Pinot Noir Marlborough Single Vineyard Taylors Pass Vineyard 2016 $42 Opens up supple and elegant, with a weightlessness to the polished cranberry and strawberry flavors that mingle with caraway seed, vanilla and tobacco notes, the tannins firming up on the finish. Drink now through 2025. 400 cases imported.—M.W. 91 Duck Hunter Pinot Noir Marlborough 2018 $30 Supple and elegant, offering fresh strawberry and cranberry flavors that mingle well with mineral and fresh herb accents. A note of matcha green tea lingers on the finish, with powdery tannins. Drink now. 2,554 cases made, 1,932 cases imported.—M.W. 91 Yealands Sauvignon Blanc Awatere Valley S1 Single Block 2018 $30 Juicy and succulent, featuring Key lime, green apple and passion fruit flavors that leap from the glass, with aromatic…

93 Donum Chardonnay Carneros Single Vineyard 2016 $60 Powerful acidity backs the freshly cut apple, pear and citrus flavors. Elderflower and jasmine accents show midpalate, featuring a juicy finish that vibrates with savory intensity. Drink now through 2024. 271 cases made.—K.M. 93 Flowers Chardonnay Sonoma Coast Camp Meeting Ridge 2016 $85 This is big, rich and wellstructured, featuring notes of citrus zest to the green apple and ruby grapefruit flavors. Spicy midpalate, with a crisp, engaging finish filled with toasty flourishes. Drink now through 2024. 1,450 cases made.—K.M. 93 Gambal + Work Chardonnay Sta. Rita Hills Francesca Vineyard 2016 $65 A big, creamy white, offering a luscious mix of dried apricot, apple tart and glazed pear flavors that feature a backbone of glistening acidity. Oily richness shows on the broad…

WINE PAIRING With its bright profile of pickled berries, tangy goat cheese and greens, this dish calls for a wine with vibrant acidity and juicy fruit on a delicate frame. Here are three snappy Grenache options that link up with the red fruit notes and herbed accents on the plate. CHEF’S PICK A Tribute to Grace Grenache Santa Barbara Highlands Vineyard 2016 WINE SPECTATOR PICKS Vall Llach Priorat Embruix 2015 (92, $27), Morgan Cotes du Crow’s Monterey 2017 (88, $20) Right about now, in much of the country, the stiffiness in the air is loosening. A green shoot or two can be seen sprouting upward. Winter is melting, and the produce aisle is finally beginning to sport bolder colors and shapes in an apparent invitation to adventure. “Cooking at home…