Indholdsfortegnelse for October 15, 2019 i Wine Spectator

This issue is packed with wine information. You’ll find reports on California’s exceptional Pinot Noirs; Spain’s amazing diversity; Germany’s distinctive dry whites; and a spectrum of delicious values from around the world. It may be too early to crown Pinot Noir the new king of California reds; Cabernet Sauvignon still holds that title. But in recent years, Pinot’s progress has been extraordinary. In our cover story this issue, Kim Marcus, our Napa bureau chief and lead taster for these wines, analyzes his recent tastings of Pinot Noirs from all across the Golden State. Marcus reports that the rapid improvement in California Pinot quality is due primarily to location, location, location. Vintners have gained a better understanding of the soil and climatic conditions that are crucial to creating great Pinots; they…

On a spring afternoon in New York, Sarah Jessica Parker is seated at a table at Casa Apicii, a svelte Italian spot in Greenwich Village. But she isn’t here for a leisurely lunch; she’s here to work. The actor-producer-designer recently partnered with New Zealand wine company Invivo to expand her business interests into the world of wine, and today she’s getting her first real taste of the job, selecting blend samples that will comprise the first of her new line of wines: the Invivo Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough X, Sarah Jessica Parker 2019, to be released Sept. 18. Parker is accompanied by her new business partners, Tim Lightbourne and Rob Cameron, Invivo’s co-founders. The duo traveled across the globe, wine samples packed in their checked baggage, to give Parker a crash…

The Carneros district, in the southern reaches of Napa and Sonoma counties, is one of those places where it is easy to see the vineyard and winemaking revolution that has swept California in the past three or four decades. Rolling hills once populated by grazing dairy cows are now covered with row upon row of grapevines, mostly Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. One person who has been instrumental in that transformation started out alone, with a toddler in hand, having come from far away and bringing a love of farming with her. Anne Moller-Racke was 19 in 1981 when she arrived in Sonoma from her native Germany, with year-old daughter Dorothy, to help the Racke group, her then-husband’s company, run the historic Buena Vista winery. “I started working in the tasting…

A small, yet diverse country, Portugal offers a stunning varitey of terroirs, grape varieties and blends brought alive by a dynamic group of grape growers and winemarkers with the perfect balance of creativity, artistry and technical skill. The result is a collection of wines both distinctive and authentic, unique among a sea of the same-this is what Protuguese wines are all about! The more you get to know them, the more these distinction fascinate and draw you in-until it’s love, pure and simple, Come challenge your senses and enjoy the unique! Find more at www.winesofportugal.com/us @WPTUSA Wines of Portugal U.S. WINEinMODERATION.eu Art de Vivre drink responsibly…

An August Issue Your Aug. 31 issue touched on many issues close to my heart. My wife and I spent several days at San Ysidro Ranch and ate at [Grand Award] Stonehouse several times shortly before it was damaged in the fires and flooding that hit the community (“Restoring Stone-house”). Its wine list was superb and we ended one night with a glass of Château d’Yquem that was just amazing. I am glad it has reopened and we are looking forward to a visit in the future. A letter from another reader (Feedback) noted the beauty of Texas wine. I can attest to that. For two years I have ridden my bicycle in the Hill Country and spent time at a number of vineyards. These wines are as good as…

You may not be as talented as Renaissance man Leonardo da Vinci, but you can at least drink the wine he grew. Yes, Leonardo was a vintner—not surprising for a man who wrote of the “divine juice of the grape”—but his small parcel in Milan was lost until a team of researchers brought it back to life in 2015. And now, 500 years after Leonardo’s death, his wine is ready to drink. On the cusp of the 16th century, Leonardo was gifted a vineyard from the Duke of Milan, his friend and patron, who a few years earlier had commissioned the masterpiece The Last Supper. According to Jacopo Ghilardotti, historian at Museo Vigna di Leonardo in Milan, the original vineyard was about 2.5 acres. The vineyard was destroyed by Allied…

When the highway starts to twist and the valley disappears behind the hills, you’ve arrived. Approximately 125 miles northeast of San Francisco, the Sierra Foothills region was the epicenter of the mid-nineteenth-century California gold rush. Today, the area’s small rustic towns feel untouched by time, but many of the fortune seekers planted the area’s first vineyards, some of which are still standing, and there’s an emerging wine country centered on Amador and El Dorado counties, which count more than 100 wineries between them. But you won’t find any wine estates along the main highway—they’re tucked away in canyons or nestled on hilltops, with many offering scenic vistas and leisurely tasting experiences. Where to Taste Casino Mine Ranch (casinomineranch.com) in Plymouth is one of the newest, most novel and whimsical additions to…

Spanish Lessons It could take years to learn all that Spain’s vinous bounty has to offer, but any of the beauties here will get you started on the right track. Several of the country’s regions are represented on this list, including familiar names such as Rioja, Priorat and Rías Baixas, delivering a range of reds and whites, along with Sherry in two different styles. Salud! SEÑORÍO DE VILLARRICA Rioja Delicia de Baco Crianza 2015 (94, $30) Powerful, balanced; plum, currant, licorice, espresso, mineral GODELIA Mencía Bierzo 2015 (93, $23) Black cherry, plum, currant, leafy, licorice, mineral; plush GONZALEZ BYASS Pedro Ximénez Jerez Dulce Nectar NV (93, $25) Thick, exotic; buckwheat honey, sesame, prune, date, Christmas pudding BODEGAS BERONIA Rioja Reserva 2014 (92, $17) Plum, blackberry, licorice, graphite, black tea, forest…

I first began blind tasting wines in earnest in the mid-1990s when I was studying for the Master of Wine certification. In that case, tastings were conducted “double blind,” meaning that correctly determining the origin and age of the wines, as well as assessing their quality, was the goal. At Wine Spectator, we’re committed to “single blind” tasting methodology for all wines under official review. This means that our tasters know the region, grape variety and vintage of the wines in the flight, but not the identity of the producers nor the wines’ prices. We feel that this approach, which eliminates discrimination based on a wine’s reputation or price point, ensures a fair and objective assessment of what’s in the glass. A recent event in New York hosted by Tuscan…

The Basque Country of northern Spain is one of the best places in the world to eat and drink. The heart of it, a 65-mile coastal swath from San Sebastián to Bilbao, boasts a greater concentration of top restaurants than anywhere else in Spain, a reflection of the central role of food in the Basque identity. Chefs here draw on a dazzling array of fresh products harvested from the Cantabrian Sea and a lush countryside. Farther afield, the region’s mountainous southwest corner is home to the Rioja Alavesa appellation, focusing on red wines made from the Tempranillo grape, while refreshing whites come from a handful of native grapes in the Txakoli Denominación de Origen. Add the region’s vibrant, storied culture and a stunning natural setting and you have the makings…

1. GRANACHA’S BIRTHPLACE IS IN EUROPE The first mention of Grenache in the area that now covers the border-hugging Spanish and French regions of catalayud, Campo de Borja, Carinea, Terra Alta, Somontano, and Roussillon dates back to 1513 BCE. This is why Europe produces the best exoression of Garnacha - it is the grape’s natural home. Because of the EU PDO and PG quality schemes, any wines labeled with these logos have a guranteed tie to this high-quality European birthplace. 2. THREE ARE FOUR MAIN GRAPE VARITIES OF GRENACHE Most associate Granacha with red variants/grapes, but the Grenache family is actually bigger: Grenache Noir, which is black, Garnacha Blanc, which is white, Grenache Gris, which is grey and Garnacha peluda/hairy/velvety. Each has its own aroma and flavor range, lending depth…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 96 Accendo Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2016 $360 CALIFORNIA Richly layered, with ripe and caressing cassis, plum preserves, boysenberry reduction and açaí berry fruit flavors. There’s a chocolate backdrop and alluring toast notes throughout, with a subtle graphite edge on the very fine-grained finish to keep this red honest. A beautiful display of fruit and very Oakville in style. Drink now through 2035. 1,240 cases made.—J.M. 96 Tenuta Bibbiano Chianti Classico Riserva 2015 $30 ITALY A deep well of cherry, plum, floral, wild thyme and iron aromas and flavors highlight this complex, vibrant red, which is beautifully balanced and taut, with firm, well-integrated tannins and lively…

ARGENTINA 94 Corazon del Sol Malbec Los Chacayes Gran Reserva Revana Vineyard 2016 $75 Elegant and powerful, featuring concentrated kirsch, blueberry and dark cherry flavors that are supported by fresh acidity and zesty tannins. Shows intense minerality midpalate, with a long and generously spiced finish, filled with accents of flint and clove. Complex. Drink now through 2025. 200 cases made, 150 cases imported.—K.M. 92 Corazon del Sol Magma Revana Vineyard Los Chacayes 2016 $45 Pure and precise, with notes of graphite and wet stone to the dark currant, red plum and wild cherry flavors, backed by crunchy acidity. Citrus peel hints show midpalate. The minerally finish that features intense dried herbal accents. Malbec blend. Drink now through 2025. 190 cases made, 150 cases imported.—K.M. 91 Bodega Diamandes Malbec-Cabernet Mendoza Grande…

CALIFORNIA Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 96 Accendo Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 2016 $360 See Highly Recommended, page 91. 96 Ovid Napa Valley 2015 $325 A beauty, with waves of red and black currant puree rolling through steadily, while tar, licorice snap, apple wood and briar notes swirl around. Authoritative grip lies underneath, allowing the fruit to keep playing out on the very long finish. A large wine that should be long-lived. Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Petit Verdot. Best from 2022 through 2040. 392 cases made.—J.M. 95 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Special Selection 2015 $180 See Highly Recommended, page 91. 94 Keplinger Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville Oakville Ranch Vineyard 2015 $185 This is seriously ripe, with a heady display of crushed blueberry, açaí berry and plum notes that are…

A Glass of Wine Before Bed Is a Good Sleep Aid Sure, drinking alcohol can make you feel sleepy, but it’s not a good idea to use alcohol to help you snooze. Thanks to alcohol’s sedative effects, a tipple before hitting the hay will help you fall asleep faster, and there is even evidence that some wine grapes contain high amounts of the sleep aid melatonin. But that sleep is less likely to be restful and restorative. A study published in 2015 in the journal Alcoholism: Clinical and Experimental Research revealed that subjects who drank alcohol experienced an increase in deep sleep early in the night, but then experienced sleep disruption and more time spent awake later. Though you probably won’t cause any major sleep problems if you drink moderately…

After nearly four decades as Wine Spectator’s leading voice on all things culinary, and having reviewed more than 35,000 wines for the publication, editor at large Harvey Steiman has retired. “I’m very happy for Harvey. His retirement after 38 years with Wine Spectator is well-deserved,” said editor and publisher Marvin R. Shanken. “On a personal note, I am very sad. Harvey has been a cornerstone of our company, a true inspiration who gave the magazine a unique voice. His cover features were among my favorites. He is irreplaceable.” Steiman began his career in journalism in 1969 as a sports writer for the Miami Herald; in 1977, he became food and wine editor at San Francisco newspaper The Examiner; and in 1982 launched The KSBS Kitchen, a food talk show broadcast…

The majestic Alps of France, Italy and Switzerland have for centuries been the cradle of some of the world’s greatest cheeses, in particular the large-format, harder, aged types, such as Beaufort and Gruyère. In the U.S., we may not have the Alps, nor for that matter any tradition of high-mountain cheesemaking, but we do have pockets of dairy country containing the necessary ingredients: lush pastures with rich fodder for happily grazing cows, and cheesemakers possessed of the skills to bring out the best in their milk. Breeding savvy is also required, but ultimately, it’s all about the grass. Following are the top picks in the class, all reflecting the best of American terroir and Alpine style. Most of these selections are priced at about $30 per pound. Alpha Tolman (jasperhillfarm.com) Upholding…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 95 Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Special Selection 2015 $180 CALIFORNIA Delivers almost unbridled flavors of plum sauce, blackberry preserves and melted licorice, but keeps a smoldering edge while picking up black tea and incense notes. COLLECTIBLE 97 Fontodi Colli della Toscana Centrale Flaccianello 2016 $159 ITALY Ripe, with mulberry, plum, black cherry, mineral and spice fla-vors, this is both lush and firmly structured. Complex, well-defined and persistent. SMART BUY 90 Bieler Père & Fils Bandol Rosé Réserve 2018 $22 FRANCE Supple white raspberry and tangerine notes are supported by steely acidity, with heather, wild herb and mineral notes carrying through the spicy finish. BEST VALUE 88 Château La Gravière Entre-Deux-Mers 2018 $11 FRANCE A juicy white, with nec-tarine, apricot, quinine and bitter orange notes racing through. This…

RED BLEND PORTUGAL CASA SANTOS LIMA The “Red Blend Portugal” is produced by the top awarded company Case Santos Lima, recognized for creating excellent wines with terrific value from portuguese region, This win presents a nice ruby colour and a striking aromatic exuberance, Smooth and elegant, it offers delicious flavours of ripe red fruits well balanced with notes of wood from a 4 months ageing peroid in French and American oak barrels. COLOSSAL RESERVA CASA SANTOS LIMA The “Colossal Reserva” is a powerful and rich red wine from the Lisbon Region, aged for 8 months in French and American oak barrels and full of delicious ripe black fruit notes and spicy flavour, It was made from a special selection of the best grapes of the varieties Alicante Bouschet, Syrah, Touriga…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. James Laube California Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Moles worth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port Mary Ann Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New…

A year ago, chef Lisa Giffen was auditioning for the role of executive chef at Audrey restaurant, which was to open in the Hammer Museum in Los Angeles’ Westwood neighborhood. Giffen already knew the restaurateur, Soa Davies Forrest, from their previous lives in the small world of New York fine dining: Giffen had worked in the kitchens of Blue Hill, Prune, Adour Alain Ducasse and Daniel, while Forrest had been Le Bernardin’s director of operations and head of research. The two newly anointed Angelenos agreed, at least in theory, that a seasonal, accessible menu with a few worldly flourishes would work well at Audrey to convey a character similar to that of the museum, a project out of UCLA’s arts and architecture school focused on giving voice to emerging and…