Indholdsfortegnelse for October 31, 2019 i Wine Spectator

Visit WineSpectator.com/103119 to find links to all of the following resources. FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL OUR WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS LETTER FROM EUROPE Contributing editor Robert Camuto blogs from his trips through Italy, France and beyond, visiting cutting-edge wine regions, iconoclastic producers and companies that drive wine trends. DAILY WINE PICKS Terrific wine finds in three price ranges, six days a week. Check our site daily for the latest picks or follow them on our Twitter feed, via @WineSpectator. NEW YORK WINE EXPERIENCE Join us Oct. 17–19 for this year’s great lineup of tastings and seminars. Our full coverage of the event will bring the world’s best winemakers and chefs to you with photos, articles and videos. WHAT AM I TASTING? Test your tasting skills in our mystery wine game. Every two…

Adelle “Boots” Brounstein Adelle “Boots” Brounstein, who cofounded Napa Valley’s legendary Diamond Creek winery with her husband, Al, and helped guide the winery for more than half a century, died July 31 following a brief illness. She was 92. Brounstein, who went by Boots, a nickname her mother gave her as a baby, was widely admired in the industry. Spritely, with an easygoing smile and a light laugh, she and her husband were trendsetters in California, planting Cabernet Sauvignon on Diamond Mountain, south of Calistoga, in the late 1960s and focusing on single-vineyard Cabernet at a time when there were fewer than 700 acres of the grape planted in the entire state. When Al died in 2006 from complications related to Parkinson’s disease, Boots continued to oversee the day-to-day operations…

If there’s a better marriage of two ingredients than cheese and tomato, it has yet to be discovered. Certainly the inventors of so many classic Italian and Mexican dishes would agree, as would some of the world’s greatest chefs. Fortunately, Daniel Humm of Wine Spectator Grand Award–winning Eleven Madison Park is no exception. As this issue went to press, Humm was working toward opening his newest establishment, Davies and Brook, at Claridge’s in London, but that didn’t stop him from creating this original dish exclusively for us, which turns the go-to combo of a grilled cheese sandwich and tomato soup inside-out: The tomato’s on the bread and the cheese is in the broth, though there’s a soupçon of each in the other. Always curious about food, Humm grew up in…

Tuscan Bonanza Tuscany continues its run of great vintages with the 2017 and 2018 harvests. The Toscana reds offer riffs on blends with Sangiovese, with prices as appealing as their flavors. The whites offer freshness and affordabilit PETRA Toscana Zingari 2017 (93, $15) Dark cherry, black currant, blackberry, earth, thyme, rosemary, mineral; sumptuous, inviting ROCCA DI FRASSINELLO Maremma Toscana Ornello 2017 (93, $28) Black cherry, blackberry, macchia, iron, tobacco, soy; expressive, intense CAMIGLIANO Toscana Poderuccio 2017 (92, $22) Ripe, powerful, savory; plum, blackberry, iron, leather, wild herb ROCCA DI MONTEGROSSI Chianti Classico 2017 (92, $23) Plum, black cherry, tobacco, earth, mineral; lush, vibrant COLLEMASSARI Vermentino Montecucco Melacce 2018 (90, $22) Fresh, lively; apple, peach, lemon curd, saline, bitter grapefruit DOGA DELLE CLAVULE Vermentino Toscana 2018 (90, $15) Peach, apple, citrus,…

Long before Andy Smith began a career making Pinot Noir and Syrah, he faced a different challenge. From age 8 to 22, Smith swam competitively for Great Britain and his native Scotland, and fell just short of qualifying to race the 200-meter butterfly in the 1988 Summer Olympic Games. Smith, currently partner and winemaker of DuMol winery, has nothing but fond memories from those days. “I have ex-swimmer friends all over the world,” says the 51-year-old vintner who nowadays spends more time in vineyards than in pools. Other Sonoma County estates may produce a broad range of wines, but DuMol is among the few that have mastered Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. The proof is in the bottles. Consider recent releases such as the brooding yet polished DuMol…

Bushmills 21 Year Old 96 WA | $150 This is the oldest expression from Northern Ireland’s Old Bushmills distillery. The Madeira-cask finish produces enchanting aromas of sultana, date, chocolate and espresso, with flavors of forest honey, banana bread and brown butter. Teeling Single Grain 91 WA | $45 California Cabernet Sauvignon barrels enrich this grain whiskey with soft berry fruit, rhubarb, apple and zippy roasted spice notes. The Teelings now distill in Dublin, though this was originally made at Cooley distillery. Jameson 18 Year Old 92 WA | $110 Jameson rebuilt the Irish whiskey industry. This blend is bursting with toffee, apple, toasted coconut, creamy vanilla, hints of Sherry and sublime spiciness. (The newer package, shown here, contains the same blend as the Jameson bottle on the cover.) Tullamore D.E.W.…

Fukano 2017 Edition 90 WA | $80 Distilled from rice that’s been processed with koji and matured in oak casks, this doesn’t count as whisky in Japan, where it started life as shochu. But in the U.S., its tropical fruit flavors and delicate character make it one of the most unique and memorable whiskies available. Nikka Coffey Grain 92 WA | $65 Grain whisky isn’t often bottled alone, but Nikka—which distills the spirit in an unusual Coffey-style still—has found success with this iteration, which has attracted ardent fans with its sweet flavors of toffee, nut and vanilla, undergirded by staunch oak. Hibiki Japanese Harmony 90 WA | $65 A widely available example of top-quality Japanese blended whisky, this Suntory product works just as well in cocktails as it does when…

When distillers expanded beyond whisky’s birthplace in the British Isles, they had to make do with locally grown grains for their base spirit. Adaptation continues today as production moves farther and farther afield, now spread across six of the seven continents. ➸ Barley is the classic from Scotland and Ireland, and it produces a wide range of flavors, from fruity and floral to savory. ➸ Corn is traditional in the American South, where by law it dominates Bourbon, offering a touch of sweetness and an oily texture. ➸ Millet is dry and soft, with fruit and flower notes. ➸ Oats deliver savory and spicy flavors, with a creamy texture. ➸ Quinoa is nutty and earthy. By the books, it’s actually a grass, not a grain. ➸ Rice that’s treated with…

96 Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series 2016 $89 AUSTRALIA Refined and elegant, this white is supple, yet intense and precise, with lemon curd, apricot, honeycomb and mandarin orange flavors, accented by floral and mineral details. The secret weapon here is the sleek acidity, which weaves in and out, giving the flavors definition and verve. Drink now through 2034. 800 cases imported.—M.W. 96 Merus Cabernet Sauvignon Coombsville 2016 $160 CALIFORNIA A towering young wine, laden with gorgeously pure plum, boysenberry and blackberry puree flavors, showing flashes of violet and apple wood. Beautifully rendered, with power, grace and beguiling perfume throughout, revealing a long, refined structure through the finish. Best from 2021 through 2035. 1,900 cases made.—J.M. 96 Spottswoode Cabernet Sauvignon St. Helena 2016 $225 CALIFORNIA Beautifully rendered, with a focused…

92 Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi Chianti Classico Tenuta Perano 2016 $25 ITALY A beautiful expression of ripe black cherry, black currant and violet notes, accented by graphite, tobacco and tar hints. Shows muscle, with some grip on the finish. Best from 2020 through 2030. 2,000 cases imported.—B.S. 92 Rocca di Frassinello Maremma Toscana Le Sughere di Frassinello 2017 $22 ITALY Tar, pine resin and eucalyptus aromas are countered by massive blackberry and black currant fruit in this complex, assertive red, with a generous dose of toasty oak. Beefy tannins match the fruit but sit apart for now. Try now for a ride on the wild side, or age short-term. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Best from 2020 through 2026. 11,000 cases made.—B.S. 92 Salcheto Vino Nobile di Montepulciano 2016 $24 ITALY…

Chardonnay 96 Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River Art Series 2016 $89 See Highly Recommended, page 101. 94 Giant Steps Chardonnay Yarra Valley Tarraford Vineyard 2018 Mouthwatering and precise, with a lovely blend of Asian pear, green apple and mandarin orange flavors that mingle with candied ginger peel, spice and floral details. Shows a silky weightlessness, retaining plenty of intensity to the flavors. Drink now. 25 cases imported.—M.W. 93 Giant Steps Chardonnay Yarra Valley Wombat Creek Vineyard 2018 $42 Fresh and vivid, offering a transparent mix of pineapple, Meyer lemon and tangerine flavors on a supple body. Impressive for the details of nutmeg and honeysuckle, with a long, sleek, expressive finish. Drink now. 50 cases imported.—M.W. 92 Leeuwin Chardonnay Margaret River Prelude Vineyards 2017 $36 Fragrant, with peppery white flower notes and…

Riesling 94 Rainer Sauer Riesling Franken Escherndorf am Lumpen 1655 GG 2017 $48 Refined, with a creamy mouthfeel, showing an impeccable balance between the high acidity, minerally backbone and notes of bergamot, hops and ripe peach. Very complex, this unwraps layer by layer, revealing spice, herbal and floral details. Beautiful now, but better to wait a few more years. Best from 2021 through 2031. 220 cases made, 24 cases imported.—A.Z. RAINER SAUER Owner & Winemaker 91 Markus Molitor Riesling Kabinett Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2017 $32 An elegant version, filled with lemon candy, ripe nectarine, pickled ginger and sweet pastry flavors. Shows good balance and concentration, with focus on the complex, long finish. Drink now through 2028. 350 cases made, 75 cases imported.—A.Z. 91 Markus Molitor Riesling Spatlese Mosel Erdener Treppchen…

92 Reyneke Reserve White Stellenbosch 2017 $42 Well-sculpted, with a silky texture and notes of clementine, gooseberry and white raspberry that are framed by savory mineral and sweet spice details. Best from 2021 through 2027. 523 cases made, 75 cases imported.—A.Z. 90 Tania & Vincent Carême Terre Brûlée Le Blanc Swartland 2018 $16 See Smart Buys, page 104. 88 Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc Constantia Bayten 2018 $15 Refreshing, with notes of grapefruit and bitter lemon oil. Expressive and mouthwatering. Drink now through 2023. 20,000 cases made, 6,417 cases imported.—A.Z. 88 Klein Constantia Sauvignon Blanc Constantia 2018 $19 Elegant, with spice and mineral notes framing the core of lime, singed orange peel and tarragon flavors. Moderate length. Drink now through 2023. 10,000 cases made, 2,000 cases imported.—A.Z. 86 Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc Western…

Pinot Noir 94 Gran Moraine Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District 2017 $45 See Highly Recommended, page 101. 93 Domaine Drouhin Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Louise Drouhin 2016 $100 Graceful and elegantly structured, with expressive raspberry, fresh violet and black tea flavors that build richness toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2026. 375 cases made.—T.F. 93 Drouhin Oregon Roserock Pinot Noir Eola-Amity Hills 2016 $35 Impeccably structured and polished, with expressive black cherry and blueberry flavors, accented by black tea and stony mineral notes that build tension and presence toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2026. 8,565 cases made.—T.F. 93 Patricia Green Pinot Noir Dundee Hills Mysterious 2017 $100 Vibrant and floral, with expressive raspberry and cranberry flavors, accented by orange zest, savory tea and cinnamon notes, building richness and structure on…

WINE PAIRING Armagnac is a natural choice alongside ice cream infused with the same Gascony-born spirit. Cognac could work too but is double-distilled and therefore subtler. In contrast, “Because [Armagnac] only gets distilled once, it retains more of the fruit and the minerality,” says partner Annie Shi. Of her nearly 30-year-old selection, she says, “It’s a little bit more aromatic, a little bit gentler, not as like a trail of fire down your throat into your belly.” CHEFS’ PICK: Jean Cave Armagnac 1990 Clare de Boer and Jess Shadbolt met in 2013 as line cooks at the River Cafe in London. “It was very clear from the outset that we loved the same food,” de Boer recalls. “Some people will gravitate toward the giant racks of veal and some people…

We are a company of wine lovers and we write for an audience of wine lovers. But we know that our readers have broader interests than wine alone. So we also write about subjects such as coffee, chocolate, cheese … and spirits. Why spirits? Our research shows clearly that many people who love fine wine—our readers—also enjoy fine spirits. The world’s great spirits, from Scotland’s whisky to France’s Cognac, share many characteristics with fine wine—they begin as agricultural products; they are crafted by skilled artisans; they display complex and diverse flavors; and they pair well with good food and friendly conversation. We regularly delve into the world of spirits. In 2017, we published a cover story on the emergence of superpremium tequila from Mexico. In 2014, we explored Scotch in…

Though most fine tea is made from the leaves of the Camellia sinensis plant, the way it is cultivated can produce vastly different results. Nowhere is this truer than with matcha, the unique green tea prepared during the elaborate Japanese tea ceremony known as sadoō. The Japanese ceremony was developed by Zen monks during the 15th century and appealed to the samurai society, royalty and Japan’s upper class. The teachings of the monk Sen no Rikyuū were the most influential, basing sadoō on the four principles of harmony, purity, tranquility and respect. These values are reflected in the extreme care with which each step in the ceremony is performed by a kimono-clad woman, wiping any excess from the lip of the ceremonial cup, walking to each station in a prescribed…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 94 GRAN MORAINE Pinot Noir Yamhill-Carlton District 2017 $45 OREGON This polished red is elegantly complex, with expressive flavors of cherry and blueberry, building tension and lively acidity toward refined tannins. COLLECTIBLE 95 DOMINUS ESTATE Napa Valley 2016 $279 CALIFORNIA Dense but defined, this marries a range of old-school savory, tobacco, chestnut and bay leaf notes with a muscular core of dark currant and blackberry fruit. Cabernet Sauvignon blend. SMART BUY 90 EUGENE CARREL & FILS Vin de Savoie Jongieux 2018 $14 FRANCE White peach, yellow apple and chamomile notes give this a bright, fresh profile, with a mineral edge adding cut through the finish. BEST VALUE 88 REAL COMPANHIA VELHA Douro White Porca de Murca 2018 $12 PORTUGAL Fragrant honeysuckle notes line the crisp mango and star…

Bulleit Bourbon 10 Year Old 92 WA | $294 A mature but vivacious whiskey, this offers intense, concentrated sweet-and-savory flavors: cedar spice, cigar box, creamy vanilla, chocolate and clove-studded orange. Jack Daniel’s Single Barrel Heritage Barrel 93 WA | $65 You don’t know Jack—at least, not like this. By employing historic barreling techniques, America’s largest whiskey distiller has created a blissful surprise utterly unlike Old No. 7. Peanut butter cracker, dark plum, gingerbread and blackberry cobbler flavors mingle with rich baking spice and refined oak. Pappy Van Winkle Family Reserve 15 Year Old 96 WA | $100 The Van Winkle Bourbons are as famous for their eye-popping prices (well above the suggested retail) as for their wheated mashbill, which leads to a soft and elegant whiskey. Complex fruit flavors balance…

Distillation has its origins in ancient Mesopotamia. It spread out from there, through Europe, where wine was distilled into aqua vitae, or water of life, which was largely made for medicinal purposes (wink, wink). Monks brought it to the British Isles in the 11th to 13th centuries and adapted it to the local predominance of grain to make what the Irish called uisce beatha and the Scots uisge beatha. Say that first word fast and you’ll know where “whisky” comes from. Written references to the spirit appeared first in Ireland, then in Scotland, in the 15th century. Ireland has the oldest licensed distillery: Old Bushmills, from 1608. Both countries lay some claim to being the birthplace of whisky, but it appears we’ll never truly know. Never mind; we like a little mystery with…

Canadian whisky makers, employing the techniques of Bourbon, Scotch and Irish distillers, create a wonderfully varied range of flavors—yet broadly speaking, three simple touchstones tell you that you’re drinking Canadian. If an initial big hit of butterscotch turns spicy and peppery midpalate, then elides into a pleasing, soft bitterness like that of grapefruit pith, there is a good chance your dram was made north of the border. Now add ten thousand nuances, from cereal to slate, and you’ve captured Canada’s essence: diversity. When settlers began arriving in Canada, distilling was already a thriving industry in many of their homelands. Plenty of home distillers were found among them, just as they are today, while at the same time, a number of well-financed industrialists created the large, booming distilleries that evolved into…

Amrut Spectrum 004 94 WA | $165 The inventiveness of India’s distillers is on display in the barrel used for aging this whisky, with four stave types: oloroso and Pedro Ximenez Sherry, and new American and French oak. Shows dense, concentrated cherry, cooked orchard fruit, sultana, date, spice and nut notes. Rampur Select 93 WA | $65 One of the leading examples of Indian single malt, this whisky is distilled from the locally grown six-row barley. Biscuity malt aromas engage with tropical notes of melon, papaya and jackfruit, underpinned by cocoa, hibiscus and tingling spice accents. WA = WHISKY ADVOCATE SCORE…

90 Castello Banfi Toscana Centine 2017 $12 ITALY High-pitched cherry and strawberry fruit is accented by wild herb, licorice and spice notes, all backed by a solid spine of tannins and juicy acidity. Holds together well through the long finish. Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2028. 75,000 cases made, 20,000 cases imported.—B.S. 89 Carpineto Toscana Dogajolo 2017 $15 ITALY Earth, tar and Mediterranean scrub aromas embrace the black cherry and blackberry fruit in this red. Lively acidity and dusty tannins show on the finish. Sangiovese and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now. 95,000 cases made, 32,000 cases imported.—B.S. 88 Real Companhia Velha Douro White Porca de Murca 2018 $12 PORTUGAL Fragrant honeysuckle notes line the crisp mango and star fruit flavors of this spicy, light- to medium-bodied white, ending…

Grüner Veltliner & Blends 94 Franz Hirtzberger Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Wachau Rotes Tor 2017 $54 A succulent style, boasting peach, yellow apple and melon notes, while celery and fleur de sel details add another dimension. Open but also a bit firm, with a texture that caresses the palate, while the minerally backbone imparts a bit of a grip in the end. Best from 2021 through 2028. 30 cases imported.—A.Z. 94 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Wachau M 2017 $75 Rich and expressive, with ripe notes of pineapple, flambéed peach and white chocolate. Honeysuckle and wet stone minerality emerge on the backend as this finishes with a long, dry feel. Very pure. Best from 2022 through 2030. 20 cases imported.—A.Z. F.X. PICHLER Owner 94 F.X. Pichler Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Wachau Ried…

Emilia-Romagna / Lambrusco 89 Cleto Chiarli e Figli Secco Lambrusco di Sorbara Vecchia Modena Premium 2018 $18 The creamy mousse carries a well-spiced range of crushed mulberry, dried thyme, rose petal and orange peel flavors. Balanced and expressive. Drink now. 15,500 cases made, 5,350 cases imported.—A.N. 89 Cantina della Volta Brut Lambrusco di Sorbara Brutrosso Metodo Classico 2016 $25 Expressive, with macerated raspberry and cherry fruit aromas and flavors wafting from the glass. Dry and lacy in texture, this balanced version features accents of anise, stone and spice that linger on the finish. Drink now through 2023. 12,500 cases made, 150 cases imported.—A.N. 88 Cleto Chiarli e Figli Secco Lambrusco di Sorbara del Fondatore 2018 $20 Well-cut acidity creates a firm frame for the flavors of raspberry, lavender and blood…

Second Thoughts In the past, Wine Spectator ran one of my letters in which I groused about the magazine’s in-depth coverage of a “non-wine” topic (“Riled Over Rye,” April 30, 2012). Now a few years older and debatably wiser, I’ve come to value Wine Spectator’s exploration of interesting and enriching non-wine topics. With this broader appreciation for a few sidetracks, I can confirm that “A Traveler’s Guide: Cheese Across America” (cover, Sept. 30) scored a bull’s-eye! Mr. Stei-man’s feature on exploring cheese in the North Bay region of California was fantastic. The piece was written with the same passion, depth and perspective as your best wine-focused exposés. Our next trip out to Northern California wine country will now include a couple of days discovering “all that is cheese” in Marin…

Jean-Luc Picard, captain of the U.S.S. Enterprise, always had a fallback career if going where no man has gone before didn’t work out: vigneron. And in a teaser for the upcoming series Star Trek: Picard, we see the vines and wines of Chateau Picard, where the French Starfleet ace seems to have retired in disillusionment. Now fans can enjoy wine from the real-life Chateau Picard. U.S. firm Wines that Rock partnered with Mahler-Besse, the négociant that owns the cru bourgeois estate Chateau Picard, in Bordeaux’s St.-Estephe region. Chateau Picard bottles with Captain Picard labels—vintage 2386—went on sale in July, along with a Special Reserve United Federation of Planets Zinfandel, produced from Dry Creek Valley in Sonoma. Picard is still filming, and the series prop director has a few bottles to…

Nancy Lester, my mother-in-law, was born in 1928, a vintage famous in Bordeaux for its quality and longevity. She died this summer, nearly 91, after a life that embodied both virtues. Nancy grew up in Charleston, W.Va., and studied interior design at Richmond Professional Institute in Virginia. She met her husband, Dr. Talbert Williams, and they moved to Atlanta to establish his practice. They built a house, raised three daughters (my wife, Sara, is the middle one) and began a lifelong love affair with food and wine. They were pioneers at a time when wine was still foreign to most Americans. During the 1960s, they hosted the renowned wine expert and Bordeaux château owner Alexis Lichine at a reception in their home. They drank Chianti and Rioja, and occasionally splurged…

PEAT Some Scotches are known for pronounced smoky aromas. These come from drying the malt over smoldering peat, a form of fuel derived from the earth in dense, vegetal bogs, then dried in bricks. MALTING To make single malt, barley is moistened and allowed to sprout, thereby secreting an enzyme that converts its starches into sugars. It’s then heated to stop the malting process. POT STILLS Pot stills are usually used to make malt whiskies and distill the liquid in as many as three batches. Alcohol vapors rise to the top of the pot and collect in the neck, where they condense into liquid on their way to the next still. Eventually, they come out around 60%–70% ABV. WOOD YOU RATHER? Casks are enormously important to flavor. Bourbon is aged…

The Balvenie PortWood Single Malt 21 Year Old 91 WA | $220 The final months of maturation in Port pipes drape this aged Speyside whisky with additional complexity. Look for raisin, peach and a dry nuttiness on the nose, with a silky palate of berry fruit, honey, cream and gentle spice. Johnnie Walker Blue Label Blended Scotch 97 WA | $225 Launched in 1992, this is the pinnacle of the Johnnie Walker range, the world’s top-selling Scotch whisky. Magnificently powerful and intense, it delivers silky caramel, dried peat, elegant cigar smoke, rich fruit and dried spices. Port Charlotte Single Malt 10 Year Old 93 WA | $65 Alluring aromas of rock pool, lemon juice, caramel and subtle smoke mark this peated expression from Bruichladdich distillery. Offers orchard fruit, smoked coconut,…

After Scotch, Japanese whisky is the most desirable category among aficionados and collectors, and yet scarcely a decade ago, there was barely any demand for it at all. Its rise has been swift and sharp, leading to shortages of aged stock that will continue for many years to come. And still, whisky drinkers can’t get enough. Distilling is not new to Japan; the country has been making shochu, generally from rice, barley or sweet potato, since at least the 16th century. But Japan’s whisky industry is relatively young. First exposed to American whiskey in 1853 with the arrival of Commodore Perry, Japanese consumers embraced many styles of whisky in the decades that followed. But when the country’s first whisky distillery opened in the early 1920s, it followed the traditions of…

Crown Royal Noble Collection Blenders’ Mash 13 Year Old 95 WA | $60 This reprises the massive flavors of yesteryear. Made from a mash of 64% corn, 31.5% rye and 4.5% malted barley, and matured in new and once-used white-oak barrels, this creamy delight shows huge vanilla, crisp barrel tones and soaring fruit and flower notes that evolve into warming peppery spices. Forty Creek Unity 92 WA | $75 From a once-tiny craft distillery that has grown into one of Canada’s most successful whisky brands, this takes flavor in another direction. A blend of rye, corn and barley whiskies, plus a splash of Sherry, which itself spent decades in whisky barrels, this luscious, fruity monster then spends time in Sherry casks, which enhance the fruitiest elements of Canadian whisky. Wayne…

Taiwan Another hot-climate Asian country that makes standout single malts is Taiwan. Although the nation’s government once had a monopoly on alcohol production, things changed after Taiwan joined the World Trade Organization in 2002. Within three years, the privately owned King Car Distillery was making single malt whisky, which it calls Kavalan after an indigenous group. The whisky is prized among connoisseurs for its lush flavors, which as in India are achieved partly though subtropical maturation conditions. Kavalan has set itself apart, however, in its rigorously executed maturation program, which employs a variety of wine casks. Taiwan’s second whisky distillery to open, Nantou, is owned by the government-run Taiwan Tobacco & Liquor Corporation, which began producing whisky in 2008. Nantou’s single malt, called Omar, is offered in Bourbon and Sherry…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. James Laube California Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus…

Malbec & Blends 92 Bodegas Terrazas de los Andes Malbec Las Compuertas Single Vineyard 2015 $65 Creamy, featuring plum tart, dark cherry and black fig flavors. Cedar and loamy notes show midpalate, with a long, rich finish that offers chocolate mousse accents. Drink now through 2021. 3,000 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—K.M. 90 Antigal Winery & Estates Aduentus Classic Mendoza 2015 $24 A zesty, concentrated mix of red fruit, spice and minerally flavors, supported by fresh acidity. Creamy hints show midpalate, featuring a finish that lingers with savory overtones. Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Drink now through 2022. 1,000 cases made, 400 cases imported.—K.M. 90 Valentin Bianchi Malbec Uco Valley Gran Famiglia 2017 $30 Well-structured, with dark fruit and dried red fruit flavors that are backed by fresh acidity. Dark…

Burgundy / Côte de Beaune / Aloxe-Corton & Corton 95 Bruno Clavelier Corton Le Rognet Vieilles Vignes 2016 $350 A vibrant, succulent red, this delivers intense flavors of red currant, wild cherry and violet, with undertones of stone and loam. Balanced and well-defined, showing a long, stone-infused finish. Best from 2021 through 2042. 8 cases imported.—B.S. 93 Marius Delarche Corton Renardes 2016 $110 A rich, succulent version, this red boasts cherry, currant, floral and spice aromas and flavors. Balanced and solidly built, with a long, tangy, mineral-tinged finish, where the tannins show up. Best from 2021 through 2038. 400 cases made, 125 cases imported.—B.S. 93 Philippe Pacalet Corton-Bressandes 2017 $463 Aromatic and spicy, this red exudes rose, cherry, currant and sandalwood aromas and flavors. Elegant, silky and harmonious, with a…

Douro 95 Quinta do Crasto Douro Vinha Maria Teresa 2015 $242 A powerhouse wine, showing lots of concentration and elegance, offering raspberry reduction, boysenberry and ripe red plum notes, interwoven with spice, tea and mint details. Elements of graphite, floral and olive linger on the velvety finish. Best from 2020 through 2029. 448 cases made, 50 cases imported.—G.S. MIGUEL ROQUETTE Owner 93 Quinta do Noval Douro Reserva 2016 $87 Blackberry and red plum flavors are concentrated and graceful in this generous red, with accents of iron, bay leaf and savory spice imparting definition through the structured finish. Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca and Tinta Cão. Drink now through 2026. 1,083 cases made.—G.S. 93 Quinta do Vallado Douro Field Blend Reserva 2016 $65 Shows lots of freshness and complexity, featuring wild raspberry…

Cabernet Franc & Blends 96 Colgin Cariad Napa Valley 2016 $650 Rich and very suave in style, with a gorgeous core of pure plum, blackberry and cassis notes sailing through the long finish, which is supported by a well-buried graphite edge that allows the creamy feel to gain the upper hand while keeping everything grounded. A beautiful display of restrained power. Cabernet Franc blend. To be released March 2020. Best from 2021 through 2035. 750 cases made.—J.M. 94 Favia Cerro Sur Napa Valley 2016 $175 Really well-built, with layers of fig, boysenberry and blackberry paste flavors, liberally laced with smoldering tobacco notes and backed by a strong wave of loam on the finish. Shows loads of grip, so give this some time. Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon. Best from 2021…

93 Betz Bésoleil Columbia Valley 2017 $48 Sleek and harmonious, with pretty violet, raspberry and peppered meat accents that take on layers of complexity as this sails toward polished tannins. Grenache, Mourvèdre, Counoise and Syrah. Drink now through 2025. 350 cases made.—T.F. 92 Col Solare Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain 2016 $75 Harmonious and elegantly structured, with expressive blackberry, black olive and toasted spice flavors that build richness toward refined tannins. Drink now through 2025. 5,962 cases made.—T.F. DAREL ALLWINE Winemaker 92 L’Ecole No. 41 Perigee Seven Hills Vineyard Walla Walla Valley 2016 $54 Structured and wellfocused, with layered currant, stony mineral and black olive accents that finish with well-buffed tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, Petit Verdot and Malbec. Drink now through 2027. 1,350 cases made.—T.F. 92 Saviah Syrah Walla…