Indholdsfortegnelse for July 31 & Aug 31, 2020 i Wine Spectator

FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS WINE SPECTATOR’S SHORT FILM CONTEST Share your wine story to compete for great prizes! Submit your short film to Wine Spectator’s 14th annual video contest and you could win tickets to our spectacular Wine Experience weekend or a Grand Tasting. Entry deadline is Tuesday, Aug. 18. Check out the rules and previous years’ finalists online. WINE SPECTATOR VIDEO Watch all our informative wine tips, winemaker interviews and tastings on your desktop, laptop, tablet or phone. Staying Home With Wine Spectator We’ve all been finding new ways to live, work and dine at home. Check out sips, tips and bites recommended by Wine Spectator staffers Wine Star Roundtable: Who Is Your Wine Hero? We asked wine stars from around the world—from Tim Mondavi to Gaia…

Natural Wine is now official in France. The government approved a charter, trade syndicate and label for this category of low-intervention wines. But is the free-spirited community of natural winemakers eager to follow a formal set of rules? “It was important to create a real framework for this type of wine, so that when a consumer opens a bottle of so-called ‘natural’ wine, that’s what’s in the bottle,” said Isabelle Perraud, member of the natural wine syndicate’s administrative council, and a grower and négociant in Beaujolais. “It’s also important for winemakers to receive recognition for what they do.” The move has the support of the INAO, which oversees French appellations, as well as the Ministry of Agriculture and the consumer protection agency DGCCRF. The label will read “Vin Méthode Nature.”…

Supermodel and actor Kate Upton shot from obscurity to international fame in 2011 with a viral video and an appearance in Sports Illustrated. She’d be on the cover of the magazine the following year—and then three more times—and has since expanded her career in modeling and acting to campaigns for Bobbi Brown, Express and Guess, plus parts in The Other Woman and The Layover. Through her travels with her husband, Houston Astros pitcher Justin Verlander, Upton, now 28, grew to love wine. At Auction Napa Valley 2014, she offered to accompany the winning bidder of one lot to a Golden State Warriors championship game; the lot gaveled off for $1.04 million. In 2019, the couple decided to add wine to their résumés, becoming co-owners of Immortal Estate in partnership with…

BODEGAS EGO Jumilla Goru Gold 2017 (93, $20) Sleek, modern; cherry, berry, currant, licorice, black tea, mineral, floral BODEGAS Y VINEDOS DIEZ MERITO Oloroso Jerez Pemartin NV (93, $20) Singed walnut, toasted sesame, buckwheat, rye; racy, bone-dry BODEGAS Y VINEDOS DIEZ MERITO Amontillado Jerez Pemartin NV (91, $24) Juicy, balanced; dried persimmon, hazelnut, date, candied walnut, bitter almond BODEGAS MANZANOS Rioja Sokatira Crianza 2016 (90, $20) Black cherry, licorice, forest floor, smoke, mineral; firm, lively BODEGAS MURIEL Rioja Fincas de la Villa Crianza 2016 (90, $16) Fresh, polished; black cherry, plum, licorice, forest floor, floral, mineral BODEGAS NUESTRO DE DIAZ BAYO Ribera del Duero Crianza 2016 (90, $21) Plum, currant, licorice, espresso, leafy; rich, juicy BODEGAS Y VINEDOS DIEZ MERITO Fino Jerez Bertola NV (90, $20) Textbook fino; dried lemon…

“Chi Spacca is designed like a big open home kitchen; when our customers walk in, they see everything happening right in front of them, and very often, they see a bistecca Fiorentina (or several) standing upright on the grill. The way we achieve the even, rare center is by grilling the steak over a hot fire and then letting it stand on the bone over indirect heat for a long time.” INGREDIENTS One 2 ½-to 3-inch-thick porterhouse steak (preferably dry-aged; about 3 pounds)½ cup whole black peppercorns2 tablespoons olive oil1 tablespoon kosher salt½ cup plus 2 tablespoons finishingquality extra-virgin olive oilFlaky sea salt RECIPE 1. Remove the steak from the refrigerator and place it on a baking sheet or in a baking dish. Set aside for 30 minutes to 1…

For more than five months in late 2019 and early 2020, Australia was hit by a series of challenges that amounted to a national crisis. During those summer months, bushfires blazed across the country, burning millions of acres and killing 34 people. Then, just as Australia was ready to move on from that enormous damage, the coronavirus pandemic arrived, shutting down restaurants, hotels and tasting rooms. All of this comes after a period of extreme drought that has taken a toll on the wine industry. Thankfully, most of Australia’s wine country was spared by the bushfires, with only three of its 65 wine regions suffering from burned vineyards: Adelaide Hills, Kangaroo Island and Tumbarumba. But the fires were so extensive that even some regions bypassed by the flames were impacted…

91 Pendulum Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2018 $15 WASHINGTON Sleek, yet shows simmering potency in the background. Expressive blackberry, mocha and cinnamon flavors build structure toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2026. 9,716 cases made.—T.F. 90 Yalumba Shiraz-Viognier South Australia The Y Series 2018 $14 AUSTRALIA Plump blackberry and blueberry flavors show nice purity, with details of blood orange, candied cherry and dark chocolate, set on a thick frame. Shiraz and Viognier. Drink now through 2030. 25,000 cases made.—M.W. 89 Frisk Riesling Victoria Prickly 2019 $11 AUSTRALIA Charming, crisp and intense, with mouthwatering candied green apple and peach flavors that are light and lively, showing touches of apple blossom and a bit of spritz on the finish. Drink now. 12,000 cases imported.—M.W. 88 Castelluccio Sangiovese Romagna Superiore Le More 2018…

This issue celebrates restaurants. It recognizes their contribution to the wine world and honors their role in building community. The coronavirus pandemic, upending the global economy and killing hundreds of thousands of people, has in its wake devastated this vital industry. But we are convinced that restaurants will in time find a new normal. And when they do, nearly 4,000 venues around the world will hold a Wine Spectator award. You can read about this year’s winners in an analysis by Cassia Schifter, the new director of our awards program, beginning on page 40. Schifter joined the company in 2015, in our tasting department. She takes the Restaurant Award reins from associate editor Gillian Sciaretta. Sciaretta and assistant editor Julie Harans also contribute stories to our Restaurant Awards package. To…

In February, I traveled to Barcelona to make a presentation at a new business wine fair called Barcelona Wine Week. My presentation focused on perceptions of Spanish wine in the United States. Among other data points, I presented the results of a survey we conducted on WineSpectator.com and reflected on Wine Spectator’s various cover stories on Spain over time. The bottom line: Rioja, Spain’s historic leader, remains the most important wine region in Spain. After the fair, I spent nearly two weeks visiting wineries. I focused on Rioja, returning once again to benchmark producers, many of whose wines I have been reviewing for decades. Rioja is a picturesque landscape, its rolling hills covered by stumpy old vines interrupted by ancient villages that still mostly cling to their hilltops. Amenities for…

One effect of sheltering in place is the magnification of escape. Watching a Korean movie feels like a magic carpet ride. Opening a bottle of German Riesling evokes the dazzling Mosel region’s steep vineyards. And cooking, well … what used to be a weeknight bowl of pasta now takes you back to the first time you had bucatini all’Amatriciana in Rome. One passport for this kind of travel is cookbooks. I’ve been unlocking old flavor memories and digging into new books for flights of fancy. Just one favorite comes from Nancy Silverton, a Los Angeles culinary eminence and a great character. Chi Spacca is the name of Silverton’s forthcoming cookbook and also of her new restaurant with chef Ryan DeNicola. The name, which means “one who splits or cleaves,” alludes…

A few years ago, Dahlia Narvaez and I were asked by the Pistachio Board to teach a baking class using pistachios, in China. My mind immediately went to one of my favorite pastries that I was making at the time, a jam-filled breakfast bar. I tweaked the bar to work with pistachios, and I ended up liking the new one better than the original. This is that improved recipe. The bars are equally great for breakfast, as an afternoon snack or for dessert. INGREDIENTS 2 cups raspberry jamPistachio Crust (recipe follows)Pistachio Crumble (recipe follows) RECIPE 1. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Spoon the jam onto the cooled Pistachio Crust and use an offset spatula or the back of a spoon to spread it to the edges in an even layer.…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile James Laube California Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Italy, Champagne, Alsace Tim Fish California Zinfandel and…

ARGENTINA Malbec 93 Familia Zuccardi Aluvional Los Chacayes 2016 $90 Rich and juicy, this is loaded with intense minerality to the sanguine-accented crushed red fruit and spice flavors. White pepper notes emerge on the creamy finish, which lengthens out with exotic spicy details. Malbec. Drink now through 2026. 750 cases made, 75 cases imported.—K.M. 92 Bodega Piedra Negra L’Esprit de Chacayes Los Chacayes 2019 $30 This shows verve, with rich minerality to the freshly crushed cherry, raspberry and dried blackberry flavors. The pure-tasting finish is contoured, revealing rich savory details that are well-spiced. Malbec. Drink now through 2024. 6,500 cases made.—K.M. 92 Familia Zuccardi Malbec Uco Valley Jose Zuccardi 2015 $45 Big, with robust flavors of dried raspberry, cherry tart and red currant that are wellframed. The juicy finish is…

UNITED STATES CALIFORNIA Acquerello Grand Award since 2012 Addison Grand Award since 2009 Capo Grand Award since 2015 The French Laundry Grand Award since 2007 La Toque Grand Award since 2014 Madera Grand Award since 2018 Murray Circle Grand Award since 2016 Patina Grand Award since 1994 The Plumed Horse Grand Award since 2015 Restaurant Gary Danko Grand Award since 2001 The Restaurant at Meadowood Grand Award since 2016 Restaurant 301 at the Hotel Carter Grand Award since 1998 Saison Grand Award since 2014 Sierra Mar Grand Award since 2012 Spago Beverly Hills Grand Award since 2010 Spruce Grand Award since 2015 The Stonehouse Grand Award since 2014 Studio Grand Award since 2014 The Village Pub Grand Award since 2013 Wally’s Beverly Hills Grand Award since 2017 COLORADO Barolo Grill…

Our new series of conversations between Wine Spectator editors and leaders in the worlds of wine and hospitality looks to bring our community together. It’s called Straight Talk. Guests range from star winemakers Mark Aubert and Thomas Rivers Brown to luminaries of the dining world such as Emeril Lagasse, José Andrés and Danny Meyer to masters of the wine business Michael Quinttus and Chris Adams. We invite wine lovers to join the conversation by posting comments during the chats. Below are some highlights from recent installments, which have spanned current events, business insights and personal thoughts. Episodes are archived on our IGTV channel for later viewing. A schedule of upcoming talks is available at WineSpectator.com/LiveChatCalendar. MAY 19 Emeril Lagasse, chef and proprietor, Emeril’s Restaurants Hosted by Wine Spectator executive editor…

Chile has built its modern winemaking reputation on well-structured reds based on Cabernet Sauvignon. One of the most ageable is Don Melchor, made by Concha y Toro, Chile’s largest wine company. Don Melchor, named for the firm’s 19th century founder, recently celebrated its 30th year in production. In January I joined winemaker Enrique Tirado for a non-blind retrospective tasting of every vintage, back to the inaugural 1987. (For complete tasting notes, see page 146.) Don Melchor is as distinctive as it is powerful, with rich, earthy aromas and flavors of dried red fruits, cedar and spice reflecting a remarkable combination of Bordeaux-style finesse and fruit-driven purity. Its consistently elegant profile is supported by succulent tannins and firm acidity, giving it the stuffing to age and gain complexity. It’s also made…

For the Bordeaux wine industry, there are two crucial periods each year. In the fall, there’s the harvest, when the new wine is made. In the spring, there’s en primeur, when it’s sold. By all accounts, the 2019 harvest went well. After a rainy spring curtailed flowering, the weather turned dry and hot. Cabernet cruised along, living off moisture reserves from the spring, if not all the Merlot was as successful. As usual, the region’s vintners are enthusiastic about the quality of their young wines. But the en primeur campaign, when the wines are sold as futures, has been rudely disrupted by the COVID-19 pandemic. I normally travel to Bordeaux in March to visit wineries, interview vintners and taste hundreds of barrel samples. Other journalists and merchants also make the…

“This is more like a composed plate than a salad, made up of carefully chosen ingredients, including Sicilian pine nuts, Pinkerton avocados and prosciutto arranged on a bed of pea shoots and dressed with a peppery Tuscan olive oil. This is one of the few salads I make that isn’t tossed. The simple act of picking up the salad and transferring it to your plate tosses the salad just as much as is needed. Formally tossing it would smash the more delicate ingredients.” WINE MATCH Prosciutto is a quintessentially Italian ingredient. I ate it practically daily when I studied in Florence, incorporating it into many dishes. Prosciutto’s deep saltiness calls for a minerally white wine with fresh acidity to complement the fatty pork. Vermentinos from the Tuscan coast or Sardinia…

92 Cambria Chardonnay Santa Maria Valley Katherine’s Vineyard 2018 $22 CALIFORNIA Lithe and powerful, featuring a vibrant core of apple and peach pastry flavors, with dried tropical fruit accents. Buttery midpalate, with a plush finish that lingers with intense spiciness. Drink now through 2024. 56,701 cases made.—K.M. 92 Bodegas Ego Monastrell Jumilla Goru 2016 $22 SPAIN This muscular red shows an austere character, offering loamy earth, anise, espresso and mineral flavors that frame a core of currant and cocoa. The tannins are ripe, with enough acidity to keep this balanced. Reserved but rich. Drink now through 2031. 8,500 cases made, 4,400 cases imported.—T.M. 91 Artesa Chardonnay Los Carneros 2017 $20 CALIFORNIA Focused, with flavors of Gala apple, pear and apricot that feature lithe tropical accents. Flinty notes show on the…

The reviews below represent senior editor Kim Marcus’ recent non-blind tasting of a 30-year vertical of Chile’s Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon, from the inaugural 1987 bottling to the current-release 2017. Formerly produced under the Concha y Toro name, Don Melchor was repositioned by the company as a stand-alone brand with the 2017 vintage. See “Chile’s Collectible Cabernet,” on page 30, for Marcus’ complete analysis. 94 Vina Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto 30th Anniversary 2017 Intensely fruity and well-structured, with spiced cherry and boysenberry flavors. Fresh, featuring vibrant acidity balanced by a creamy texture. Offers a toasty finish and medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2032. 13,000 cases made, 2,600 cases imported.—K.M. 95 Concha y Toro Cabernet Sauvignon Puente Alto Don Melchor 2016 Complex, with crushed mineral notes to the intense…