Indholdsfortegnelse for October 15, 2020 i Wine Spectator

The first thing you notice in Michael Schulson and Nina Tinari’s stylish condo on Philadelphia’s iconic Rittenhouse Square is the sense of warmth and expansion: Victorian-inspired appointments, in subdued grays and taupes, are writ large on 2,000 square feet of open living space. Upon closer inspection, the spaciousness comes into sharper focus; yes, it’s a big place, but just as notably, there’s no clutter. It’s the way many of us wish to live, yet precious few pull it off. So how do they do it? Tinari and Schulson bought the apartment in 2015 as a raw space, then designed it specifically to be clutter-free. Their inspiration came in the form of a recent five-year stint living in a 1,000-square-foot apartment—along with Schulson’s two sons, Jordan and Davin, and the family…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 97 Rotem & Mounir Saouma Chateauneuf-du-Pape White Magis 2017 $150 FRANCE Gorgeous in every way, from the lush and silky feel to the waves of creamed melon, white peach and green fig flavors, accented by spritely chamomile and verbena details. COLLECTIBLE 95 Castello dei Rampolla Toscana Sammarco 2015 $99 ITALY Dense and muscular, with a tightly wound matrix of black cherry, blackberry, iron, earth and tobacco. Though gripping, this is pure, fresh and balanced. Cabernet Sauvignon blend. SMART BUY 92 Lafond Pinot Noir Sta. Rita Hills SRH 2017 $27 CALIFORNIA A taut red, featuring crisp red fruit and berry flavors, supported by glistening acidity. Lithe midpalate, with ample slate notes, followed by dark chocolate hints on the finish. BEST VALUE 91 Cune Rioja Crianza 2017 $14 SPAIN This…

SIGNATURE WINE: MALBEC 92 | $30 | BODEGA PIEDRA NEGRA | L’Esprit de Chacayes Los Chacayes 2019 | This Malbec shows verve, with rich minerality to the freshly crushed cherry, raspberry and dried blackberry flavors. The puretasting finish is contoured, revealing rich savory details that are well-spiced. (K.M.) 91 | $18 | BODEGA PIEDRA NEGRA | Malbec Los Chacayes Reserve 2018 | This ripe red features chiseled dark cherry, berry and plum tart flavors. Hints of mint emerge midpalate, with an enveloping finish of Asian spice, dark chocolate and slate elements that deliver a creamy texture. (K.M.) 91 | $20 | CLOS DE LOS SIETE | Uco Valley 2017 | Deep, rich flavors of roasted cherry, plum tart and dried savory herbs are supported by firm acidity. Features a tensile…

SIGNATURE WINE: SAUVIGNON BLANC 93 | $17 | ALLAN SCOTT | Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019 | Stylish, generous and intense, featuring flavors of lemon curd, apricot and lime sherbet that are vivid and mouthwatering, accented by details of matcha, white pepper and passion fruit. Shows excellent followthrough on the finish. (M.W.) 92 | $25 | DOG POINT | Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019 | This version is mouthwatering and vivid, with a laser beam of focus and intensity to the Meyer lemon, ruby red grapefruit and dried mango flavors. Peppery white flower aromas and a touch of freshly grated ginger add complexity. (M.W.) 91 | $17 | WAIRAU RIVER | Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough 2019 | This white offers an intense and precise mix of ruby red grapefruit, Meyer lemon and lemongrass…

During the extraordinary growth of the modern California wine industry, the state’s star grape and best wine has been Cabernet Sauvignon, particularly from Napa Valley. From Inglenook to Georges de Latour, Mondavi to Caymus, Harlan to Beckstoffer To Kalon, these wines have earned the highest ratings and fetched the highest prices. But today, Pinot Noir is coming on strong. It’s not that the quality of Cabernet is declining. Rather, Pinot Noir has made tremendous strides in recent decades and now offers the quality, character, diversity and value that wine lovers seek. And above all, it just tastes delicious. We have tracked this progress in our tastings and seen the rise of interest among our readers. To keep California Pinot drinkers in the know, senior editor Kim Marcus, our lead taster…

The 25% tariffs the Trump administration’s Office of the U.S. Trade Representative (USTR) imposed on most French, German, Spanish and U.K. wines in 2019 will remain in place for the foreseeable future, forcing wine lovers to pay more and inflicting economic distress on importers, retailers and restaurateurs. The tariffs went unchanged in an August review of the policy. “If the [Trump] administration is serious about helping American businesses recover from the pandemic, they will end the absolute lunacy of these job-killing tariffs,” said Ben Aneff, managing partner of Tribeca Wine Merchants and current president of the U.S. Wine Trade Alliance. The fight stems from a two-decade dispute between the U.S. and the E.U. over subsidized loans from Spain, France, Germany and the U.K. to Airbus. Last October, the Trump administration…

I was introduced to sangria while in college. A friend’s grandmother from Barcelona showed me her recipe for Spain’s famous cold, red wine–based drink: plenty of fresh chopped fruit mixed with club soda and fruit juice and served over ice. The trick, she told me, was to add a splash of brandy. It was solid advice, but wine was something I wanted to study, not alter. So for me, sangria remained a beverage for tapas bars and summer barbeques. Today, sangria has an impressive hold in the U.S. market. According to Wine Spectator sister publication Impact Databank, the top-selling Spanish wine brand here is Cruz Garcia Real Sangria. In fact, Spanish sangrias accounted for nearly 1.6 million cases by volume in the U.S. in 2018, or 16% of all Spanish…

On a crisp February day, Vicente Dalmau Cebrián-Sagarriga stands on a promontory overlooking Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta, one of the founding wineries in Rioja, Spain’s premier wine region. The old stone buildings resemble a medieval town—castle and all—nestled into the vine-covered hillside. But off to the side, there’s no missing the construction of a massive new winery. It’s been two decades since Cebrián-Sagarriga began to restore the nearly 150-year-old complex, arguably Rioja’s oldest winery, to its former glory. Now his master plan is coming to fruition. “All our efforts over the past 20 years have been to go back,” remarks Cebrián-Sagarriga, 50, gazing over his kingdom. Cebrián-Sagarriga, sporting custom suits, designer shoes and an eye-catching chain around his neck, is all polish. His intensity, which shines through piercing dark eyes,…

SIGNATURE WINE: SHIRAZ 92 | $23 | VINACEOUS | Syrah Mount Barker Reverend V 2017 | White and black pepper notes pop amid the core of blackberry and blueberry flavors, with dense tannins and details of dried mushroom and gunpowder tea. Focused and balanced on the finish, where the tannins firm up to provide muscular traction. (M.W.) 91 | $20 | RED HEADS STUDIO | Coco Rôtie South Australia 2018 | Blood orange, maraschino cherry and raspberry puree flavors are pure, fresh and supple, with an elegance to the satiny tannins. Clove, matcha, turmeric and toasted rye notes linger on the finish. Syrah and Viognier. (M.W.) 91 | $28 | LIVING ROOTS | Shiraz Adelaide Hills Pepperberry 2018 | Shows terrific concentration and focus, with cumin and cigar box aromas…

SIGNATURE WINE: CHENIN BLANC 92 | $25 | WILDEBERG | Chenin Blanc Paarl 2018 | A generous style that still shows good focus from invigorating acidity and minerality. This is well-knit, offering aromas and flavors of stone fruit and citrus, accented by white pepper, cardamom and honeysuckle details. Exhibits soft minerally grip on the finish, giving structure. (A.Z.) 90 | $16 | TANIA & VINCENT CARÊME | Terre Brûlée Le Blanc Swartland 2019 | This features a seductive texture that coats the palate, with an intriguing mineral grip that supports notes of yellow plum and melon at the core, while spice and floral accents glide along the edges. Chenin Blanc. (A.Z.) 90 | $25 | MOTHER ROCK WINES | Swartland White 2018 | Marches to the beat of its own…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile James Laube California Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus…

U.S. Panel Targets Moderate Drinking For 25 years, the U.S. government’s dietary guidelines for alcohol consumption have urged moderation, mentioning some possible health benefits, but also recommending that men limit themselves to no more than two drinks per day and women to one drink or less. Now a panel of health experts is saying that may be too much and is recommending the guideline be cut in half for men. The panel, part of the group in charge of revamping the U.S. Dietary Guidelines for Americans, used damning language to describe alcohol consumption as a major problem in America, pointing to rising rates of binge drinking and growing evidence of links between alcohol and some forms of cancer. The Dietary Guidelines Advisory Committee Report, released July 15, was dismissive of…

Now In Our IGTV Archives AUG. 27 Tonya Pitts, wine director at San Francisco’s One Market, and advisory board member of Wine Unify AUG. 25 Terry Arnold, Sr. VP at Southern Wine & Spirits and executive sponsor of the Thurgood Marshall College Fund AUG. 20 André Hueston Mack, founder of Maison Noir Wine, sommelier, and Brooklyn, N.Y., restaurateur AUG. 18 Julia Coney, wine journalist and educator, and founder of Black Wine Professionals AUG. 13 Will Blackmon, retired NFL star, Super Bowl champ, and owner of The Wine MVP AUG. 11 Brenae Royal, manager of Sonoma’s historic Monte Rosso vineyard, owned by E.&J. Gallo AUG. 6 Mac McDonald, owner of Sonoma’s Vision Cellars, and founder of the Association of African American Vintners AUG. 4 Carlton McCoy, CEO of Napa’s Heitz Cellar,…

Kona has become synonymous with fine Hawaiian coffee. The region comprises a thin swath of land 2 miles wide and 26 miles long, set on the leeward western slopes of the Hualalai and Mauna Loa volcanoes on the Big Island. The area affords ample morning sun, frequent afternoon showers and fertile soil. Does the coffee live up to the hype? The short answer is yes. Kona coffee (100%, not the 10% mix permitted to bear the famous name) usually produces a balanced, clean cup. Here, I focus on Greenwell Farms, a historic producer and arguably the father of Kona coffee. The farm is currently run by Tom Greenwell, a 62-year-old fourthgeneration grower, whose great-grandfather Henry Nicholas Greenwell arrived in Kona in 1850 and set about farming, ranching and branding the…

Seeing Red Spain delivers a vast range of red wines, with the majority of this selection hailing from the country’s top appellations. Bodegas Borsao, known for its value-oriented offerings, blends Garnacha, Syrah and Mazuelo in its Campo de Borja Cabriola, while the Bodegas Ego Fuerza from Jumilla relies on Monastrell and Cabernet Sauvignon. BODEGAS Y VINEDOS VALDERIZ Ribera del Duero 2017 (94, $40) Generous, structured; plum, currant, cocoa, clove, mineral BODEGAS BERONIA Rioja Gran Reserva 2011 (93, $30) Currant, cocoa, licorice, loamy earth, orange peel; maturing, focused BODEGAS BORSAO Syrah Campo de Borja Zarihs 2016 (93, $22) Savory, rustic; dark plum, black pepper, soy, earth MARQUES DE CACERES Rioja Excellens Cuvee Especial Crianza 2016 (92, $20) Black cherry, espresso, clove, black tea, graphite, mint; sleek, lively, harmonious BODEGAS BORSAO Campo…

Wine labels come and go, especially in the modern world. Some have a long lifespan; others quickly disappear. It’s something you get used to seeing after a few years in the business. But it’s disturbing to see a once-proud wine brand stuck in limbo. That’s exactly what’s happening to California’s Ravenswood. It’s not even clear whether the winery made wine in 2019 or what its plans were for harvest 2020. That’s not something that is going unnoticed by California Zinfandel’s small but enthusiastic cadre of fans. Sonoma-based Ravenswood, you should remember, is the home of the tagline “No Wimpy Wines.” It has been revered as one of the “Three Rs” of California Zinfandel, along with Ridge and Rosenblum. Ridge still thrives, but the late and beloved Kent Rosenblum sold his…

SIGNATURE WINE: CABERNET SAUVIGNON 91 | $17 | VIÑA SANTA EMA | Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Reserva 2018 | A minty aroma accents the concentrated red fruit and spice flavors in this version, flanked by dried green herbal notes. Minerally midpalate, ending with a crunchy, fresh-tasting finish. (K.M.) 90 | $17 | COUSIÑO-MACUL | Cabernet Sauvignon Maipo Valley Antiguas Reservas 2017 | This lithe red features focused cherry, currant and plum flavors, flanked by accents of white pepper. Minerally midpalate, with a finish filled with freshly crushed green herbal notes. (K.M.) 90 | $18 | VIÑEDOS TERRANOBLE | Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua Valley Gran Reserva 2017 | This is filled with hot stone notes to the dried cherry, berry and wild spice flavors, backed by taut acidity. Cigar box and forest…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 97Carnasciale Toscana Il Caberlot 2016 $275/1.5L ITALY Alluring, forthcoming aromas of black currant, cedar, lead pencil and iron mark this suave and polished red. Builds on the palate to the long finish, firming up along the way, yet remains harmonious and beautifully defined. Shows excellent length and grace overall. Caberlot. Drink now through 2035. 4,800 cases made, 1,200 cases imported.—B.S. 97Rotem & Mounir Saouma Chateauneufdu-Pape White Magis 2017 $150 FRANCE Gorgeous in every way, from the lush and silky feel to the waves of creamed melon, white peach and green fig flavors, accented by spritely chamomile and verbena details. The long finish lets a shortbread note…

ARGENTINA 90 Bodega Mendel Unus Mendoza 2017 $50 This is big and dense, featuring brooding dark plum, espresso and mocha flavors that turn creamy midpalate. Hints of cola and accents of chocolate mousse emerge on the richly spiced finish. Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon and Petit Verdot. Drink now through 2023. 600 cases made, 600 cases imported.—K.M. 89 Vina Cobos Cabernet Sauvignon Lujan de Cuyo Bramare 2017 $40 Lushly spiced, with concentrated cardamom and vanilla bean notes to the dark cherry and plum flavors. Chocolate mousse details show on the finish. Drink now. 4,500 cases made, 900 cases imported.—K.M. 89 Bodega Septima Malbec Mendoza 2017 $14Svelte, featuring a crisp core of red fruit flavors, backed by fresh acidity and tannins. The minerally finish is long and well-spiced, with hints of green olive.…