Indholdsfortegnelse for October 31, 2020 i Wine Spectator

FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS STRAIGHT TALK WITH WINE SPECTATOR is an Instagram Live series featuring conversations with wine-and-food newsmakers. Recent editions have featured Heitz Cellar CEO Carlton McCoy, star winemaker Thomas Rivers Brown (below, center) chef Charlie Palmer (below, left) and vintner and restaurateur André Hueston Mack (below, right). All episodes are archived on our IGTV channel for viewing anytime. Tune in to Straight Talk on Wine Spectator’s Instagram page, every Tuesday and Thursday at 7 p.m. ET, and check out the chat schedule at WineSpectator.com/LiveChatCalendar. WHAT AM I TASTING? Test your tasting skills in our mystery wine game. Every two weeks, we post a tasting note with clues from the color, aromas, flavors and structure. Then, you guess the variety, region, appellation and age of the wine.…

GRAPES Burning wood releases aromatic compounds called volatile phenols, such as guiacol and 4-methylguaiacol. Drifting through vines, they can permeate the waxy cuticle of grape skins and bond with the sugars inside, forming molecules called glycosides. BARREL Glycosides are nonvolatile—growers and winemakers cannot detect them by taste or smell. But during fermentation, the wine’s acidity begins to break down the chemical bonds, releasing the volatile phenols again. BOTTLE The wine might taste fine at bottling, but develop smoke taint hints months or years later. Scientists have found evidence that enzymes in our mouths can break down any remaining glycosides, releasing the smoke taint as the wine is consumed.…

Alain Voge Rhône vintner Alain Voge died Sep. 2, at age 81. For more than 50 years, he made wine from Cornas and St.-Péray, helping preserve hillside vineyards at a time when development threatened to erase them from the map. “He was a huge talent. He found the right balance between the value of tradition and innovation,” said Lionel Fraisse, general manager of Voge’s namesake winery. “He always worked toward getting the top quality through precision and details for the best expression of the terroir.” Voge’s grandfather acquired farming land in 1905. The family worked as fruit merchants and grapegrowers, gradually buying more land. In 1965, Alain’s father died, leaving the 26-year-old in charge. Voge took a chance, transitioning from selling in bulk to bottling his own wine. Today the…

Much of my life has been spent in restaurants. I’ve worked in them, as a busboy, waiter and bartender. I’ve written about them, as a reporter and reviewer. And I’ve eaten in them, from greasy spoons to gilded palaces, across four continents and dozens of cuisines. All that came to a screeching halt in March, when New York City shut down its restaurant industry. What seemed at first an interruption, a pause, is now evolving into a new and damaged normal. Where I live, in the borough of Brooklyn, most of the news is sad. Camperdown Elm was my neighborhood standby. During the pandemic, it offered take-out; we ordered a few times, but it wasn’t the same as sitting at the bar sipping Sherry with owner Ignacio Monclus. Recently, Monclus…

When Tignanello debuted with the 1971 vintage, it ignited a revolution in the wines of Tuscany. Piero Antinori’s decision a few vintages later to blend Cabernet Sauvignon into his indigenous Sangiovese upended traditional ideas about the wines of the Chianti region and was a primary impetus for the emergence of the super Tuscan category. With time, however, Italian wine regulations embraced and absorbed Tignanello and its rebellious cohorts of the era. Today, the wine sits comfortably within the range of contemporary Tuscan reds. From unorthodox roots, it has become a benchmark. What changed more—the wine or the region? And how has Tignanello fared against the test of time, the ultimate measure for classic red wines? In late 2019, I had the opportunity to taste a complete retrospective of Tignanello: 39…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile James Laube California Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Italy, Champagne, Alsace Tim Fish California Zinfandel and…

One thing we’ve learned about our readers over the years is how much you love Italy. It ranks among your top travel destinations; it is the source of what is arguably your favorite cuisine; it consistently leads in wine imports to the U.S. So we pay close attention to Italy—exploring what is new and interesting, keeping tabs on the venerable and still excellent, and reporting our findings. Unfortunately, in this pandemic era, we aren’t visiting Italy as tourists, nor are we able to enjoy our local Italian restaurants so freely and fully right now. However, we can still drink the wines! Most years, we review about 3,000 Italian wines. That’s about 20% of our total annual tastings, putting the country behind only France (4,000 wines reviewed) and California (3,500). All…

Leave it to the French to dress up a homey comfort staple into a rich, scrumptious treat guaranteed to transform any casual meal into a memorable occasion. Born in Parisian cafés soon after the turn of the 20th century, at the waning of the Belle Époque, the croque monsieur is a toasted ham-and-Swiss sandwich taken to the max. Elegantly simple and profoundly satisfying, it delivers a richness enhanced by the inclusion of brioche bread and béchamel sauce, and features a deliciously savory, molten core punctuated by a delightfully crispy exterior. The title can be literally translated as “Mr. Crunchy.” The monsieur becomes a madame when topped by a fried egg, which, proverbially, lends the impression of a lady’s hat. Seeking an authentic source, I contacted chef Laurent Tourondel, 53, who,…

The Rooster Crows Chianti Classico has been on a roll, with the outstanding 2017 vintage coming on the heels of 2016 and 2015. Fortunately, prices have not yet caught up with the quality of the wines. Here are four strong examples, plus a number of other terrific values from Italy, including both reds and whites. CASTELLO DI MELETO Chianti Classico Vigna Casi Riserva 2016 (94, $30) Silky, harmonious; cherry, strawberry, floral, mineral CASTELLO DI ALBOLA Chianti Classico Riserva 2017 (93, $30) Cherry, strawberry, mineral, almond; supple, racy FORADORI Manzoni Bianco Vigneti delle Dolomiti Fontanasanta 2018 (93, $30) Bright, elegant, fragrant; macerated peach, chamomile, white raspberry, spice, saline MARCHESI DE’ FRESCOBALDI Chianti Classico Tenuta Perano Riserva 2016 (93, $33) Black currant, blackberry, violet, earth, iron; fresh, pure CASTELLARE DI CASTELLINA Chianti…

In October 2019, I received an invitation I couldn’t refuse. It came in the form of an email from Filippo Mazzei, who, along with his brother Francesco, manages their family’s Marchesi Mazzei estates in Tuscany and Sicily. “I guess you remember that at Opera Wine, we spoke about our new project,” he wrote, referring to our event at Vinitaly showcasing Italy’s top wines. “The Il Caggio estate that we acquired 13 years ago, to develop a unique wine: Chianti Classico Gran Selezione [made from] 100% Sangiovese. The wine, called Ipsus, is a single-vineyard, multi-clonal Sangiovese, natural and organic, grown in beautiful alberese soil at 350 meters [1,155 feet] above sea level.” I was intrigued right away—not only by the emergence of a new wine, from an estate unknown to me,…

FLIGHT 1 Vino da Tavola-Tuscany Tignanello 1971 | 90 | Brick-colored, this is in its descending phase, yet remains balanced and elegant. The bouquet evokes tobacco, burnished leather and autumn woods, with smoky tea flavors. Drink now. Vino da Tavola-Tuscany Tignanello 1975 | 95 | A gorgeous bouquet of rose petal, strawberry, cherry and spices introduces this ethereal Tignanello. Ripe and full of sweet fruit, this is still vigorous, with a terrific finish. Drink now. Vino da Tavola-Tuscany Tignanello 1982 | 92 | Fluid, with cherry, iron, earth and tobacco flavors. Consistent from start to lingering finish. Balanced. Drink now. Vino da Tavola-Tuscany Tignanello 1983 | 93 | Evoking kirsch, black currant, macerated cherry and leather flavors, this expresses the Cabernet in the blend. Still intense, with a long aftertaste.…

ARGENTINA 92 Familia Zuccardi Aluvional Gualtallary Mendoza 2016 $90 Big and rich, with concentrated raspberry, dark plum and dark currant flavors, supported by firm acidity and beefy tannins. Offers a minerally finish, with hints of licorice and chocolate nibs. Drink now through 2026. 750 cases made, 75 cases imported.—K.M. 92 Familia Zuccardi Aluvional Paraje Altamira 2016 $90 Svelte, with fresh, mineral-rich raspberry, dried cherry and currant flavors, backed by crunchy acidity. Loamy hints show on the spicy finish. Drink now through 2025. 1,250 cases made, 125 cases imported.—K.M. 91 55 Malbec Cabernet Sauvignon Paraje Altamira Zaha Toko Vineyard 2017 $30 Big and ripe, with unctuous dark fruit, blueberry and Asian spice flavors that offer creamy accents. Dark chocolate and mocha notes fill the finish to the brim. Drink now through…

When Ina Garten was 21, she signed up for flying lessons. It was 1969, and she and her new husband, Jeffrey, were living at the U.S. Army base in Fort Bragg, N.C., where he was training as a paratrooper with the Green Berets as she finished college. She inquired about flying lessons at a nearby airport. “They told me that there wasn’t an instructor that would teach a woman how to fly a plane,” she recalls. “Isn’t that astonishing?” But her resolve remained undimmed. “I was not about to take no for an answer,” she laughs. “They finally found somebody in the next town over who would come over and teach me how to fly.” Around this time, Garten was also learning to cook. “It was really exciting, setting up…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 96 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Kathryn Hall 2016 $185 CALIFORNIA A beauty, with creamed plum, braised fig and black licorice notes that are long and deep, ending with a swath of espresso, loam and smoldering tobacco. COLLECTIBLE 95 Fontodi Colli della Toscana Centrale Flaccianello 2017 $149 ITALY There’s fine purity to the black cherry, black currant and blackberry flavors in this expressive red. Everything is in the right proportion as this remains vibrant and focused SMART BUY 90 Cooperativa Vitivinícola Arousana Albarino Rias Baixas Paco & Lola 2018 $21 SPAIN Racy acidity energizes this vibrant white, with leesy blanched almond, tarragon and briny notes imparting a succulent, savory character. Lively and firm. BEST VALUE 90 Los Vascos Sauvignon Blanc Casablanca Valley 2019 $14 CHILE A snappy and…

As in many wine regions around the globe, Tuscany has witnessed extreme weather over the past two decades. Blistering heat, combined with severe storms, frost and drought, is the new normal for this famed region of central Italy. The 2017 growing season was hot, but it was the drought that left its mark, along with frost in some areas. “The 2017 vintage was quite unique,” says Antinori CEO Renzo Cotarella. “With the drought and frost, I haven’t seen any vintage like it in the past 20 years.” At Bolgheri estates Ornellaia and Masseto, director Axel Heinz describes 2017 as a winemaker’s vintage. “If you got it wrong, it’s going to show.” Based on my tastings over the past year, the best wines from the 2017 harvest are concentrated, maintaining freshness…

Italy’s Veneto region is headlined by wine stars Amarone for red, Soave for white and Prosecco for sparklers. All make delicious and distinctive wines that have enthusiastic followers in the United States. But there is much more to discover in this gentle giant of wine production. The region, which extends from Venice westward to Lake Garda, and from the Alps southward to the Po river contains more than 40 DOC- or DOCG-designated appellations, another dozen or so IGT wine areas, and bottlings of basic Vino da Tavola. Among this cornucopia are many unsung and undervalued wines, with distinctive characters and approachable prices. Three appellations deserve special attention for the quality and progress they are showing in recent vintages. Lugana, on Veneto’s western edge, is a source of lively, light-bodied whites…

Château Lagrézette towers above a bend in the serpentine Lot River in southwest France, the 15th century edifice striking evidence of the long history of the Cahors region. Forty years ago the estate lay in ruin, but its beauty, and the potential of its terroir, drew the attention of successful and flamboyant French businessman Alain Dominique Perrin. When Perrin went to look at the fortress, in 1979, its owners had neglected the medieval castle for many decades. Its stone towers had crumbled. The castle warden, a man named Léon, lived in the only habitable room, the kitchen, with his sheepdog. The estate’s winegrowing went back hundreds of years, but the abandoned vineyards were a pitiful sight. Still, vestiges of beauty were visible to Perrin, an art collector and former antiques…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 96 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Kathryn Hall 2016 $185 CALIFORNIA A beauty, with creamed plum, braised fig and melted black licorice notes that are long and deep, gliding through effortlessly and ending with a swath of espresso, loam and smoldering tobacco details. Hard to resist now, but will cruise in the cellar. Best from 2021 through 2035. 6,600 cases made.—J.M. 95 Dei Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Bossona Riserva 2015 $65 ITALY This red is broad, yet vivid and focused, featuring violet, black currant, blueberry, iron and tobacco aromas and flavors. A swath of dense tannins lends support as this plays out on the long aftertaste.…

Now In Our IGTV Archives SEPT. 24 Bart and Jaime Araujo, owners of Napa Cabernet estate Accendo Cellars and new project Trois Noix SEPT. 22 Rajat Parr, somm, author and partner at California’s Domaine de la Côte and Sandhi and Oregon’s Evening Land SEPT. 15 Lamberto Frescobaldi, president of historic Tuscan wine giant Marchesi de’ Frescobaldi SEPT. 10 Cathy Corison, owner of Napa’s Corison Winery and an alum of Chappellet, Rombauer and Staglin SEPT. 8 Charles Woodson, former NFL star and owner of Intercept Wines, featuring Paso Robles and Monterey terroirs SEPT. 3 Eben Sadie, winemaker at South Africa’s Sadie Family Wines and champion of old-vine vineyards AUG. 27 Tonya Pitts, wine director at San Francisco’s One Market and advisory board member of Wine Unify AUG. 20 Andre Hueston Mack,…

Shadows in the Vineyard: DRC True-Crime Story Coming to TV Few wine sagas match the potential Pinot (film) Noir intrigue of Shadows in the Vineyard, a true-wine-crime drama of sabotage and high-stakes ransom on what some consider the most hallowed ground in wine, the vineyards of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti. In August, film companies Landmark Studio Group and District 33 announced that production will soon begin on a story that will strike fear in the heart of any Burgundy lover. Adapting Maximillian Potter’s book of the same name, the limited TV series will dramatize the 2010 exploitation case that rocked the iconic estate and all of Burgundy. In January of that year, co-owner Aubert de Villaine received anonymous letters threatening to poison and destroy DRC’s acclaimed and incalculably valuable vineyard,…