Indholdsfortegnelse for February 28, 2021 i Wine Spectator

Everyone enjoys getting a good buy, and in these times of economic turmoil, value is an ever more important consideration. At Wine Spectator, we are always excited to recommend wines that deliver high quality at an affordable price. Our blind-tasting methodology helps us find them: We review wines without knowing their producer or price, and frequently discover wines whose quality outperforms their cost. Our cover story this issue highlights great values in two categories: wines for the table and wines for the cellar. Wines for the table are those that are good to open tonight (though some can benefit from additional time in bottle). For these everyday pours, most of us seek a diversity of wines whose characters marry with the wide range of cuisines we have for dinner and…

Vintage charts provide a general indication of a region’s overall performance in a given year. This chart includes quality ratings and drinkability evaluations for most vintages that are currently available in retail stores and at restaurants and for selected older vintages. A score range indicates preliminary analysis based on barrel samples and/or a limited sampling. “NYR” means most of the wines of the vintage are yet to be released. More comprehensive vintage charts, including full descriptions of vintage character, accompany our annual tasting reports and are also available free at WineSpectator.com/vintagecharts. 100-Point Scale 95–100 Classic 90–94 Outstanding 85–89 Very Good 80–84 Good 75–79 Mediocre 50–74 Not Recommended…

When your significant other breaks things off, it really helps if your friends are there to pick you up. Australian winemakers experienced some welcome solidarity in December after China, Australia’s largest trading partner, imposed tariffs of up to 212% on Aussie wine. Political leaders from the United States, United Kingdom, European Union, Japan, Sweden, Germany, Italy and New Zealand launched a global campaign via video to encourage their compatriots to drink Aussie wine. The Australian wine industry will need all the help it can get. According to Wine Australia, China accounts for 42% of Australian wine exports by value. The United States is a distant second. Relations between Australia and China soured in April after Australia called for an international inquiry into the origins of the coronavirus. The Inter-Parliamentary Alliance…

This group of excellent values covers the Rhône Valley in all its diversity, from north to south, both red and white. Wine lovers will recognize names such as Chave, Delas, Domaine de la Janasse and Domaine des Bosquets for their high-end labels, but here you can enjoy the same attention to detail at more affordable prices. JEAN-LOUIS CHAVE SELECTION St.-Joseph White Circa 2018 (93, $35) Open-knit, enticing; creamed melon, pear, yellow apple, honeysuckle, citrus oil, salted butter MONTIRIUS Vacqueyras Le Clos 2018 (93, $35) Plum sauce, blackberry, singed alder, black tea, iron, bay leaf; silky, alluring DELAS Crozes-Hermitage White Les Launes 2019 (92, $27) Bright, bouncy; melon, quince, yellow apple, acacia, salted butter FAMILLE BRECHET Lirac White Plateau des Chenes 2019 (92, $28) Fennel, honeysuckle, quinine, white peach, green almond,…

What would happen if Walmart announced that it was going out of business, shutting down operations and laying off its 2.3 million employees? How about Amazon, Home Depot, FedEx, UPS, IBM, Target and Starbucks, too? These are among the largest employers in the United States, with close to 6 million people working for them. If their executives announced that the pandemic had rendered their businesses unsustainable, the U.S.government would take action, just as it did for the financial sector and auto industries during the Great Recession a decade ago; the actions weren’t popular with everyone, but they likely helped prevent a depression. While those companies are doing OK, and in some cases managing to prosper during our twin crises of pandemic and economic misery, another large employer is failing—and the…

With a history of production spanning more than three centuries, Port is one of the world’s most storied wines. It derives its name from the town at its heart: Porto, an ancient city located on the Atlantic coast of Portugal. There are many different kinds of Port, from tawny (cask-aged) to ruby (bottle-aged). At the top of the quality hierarchy is Vintage Port. Vintage Ports are “declared” only in years when producers deem the fruit to be of the highest quality—typically just two or three years out of every decade. The recent run of the 2015 through 2018 harvests has provided some producers with an extremely rare troika. Vintage Ports typically start to hit their stride at 15 to 20 years of age and can then age for two decades…

Jan. 31 – Feb. 29, 2020 There are many pathways to buy wine; here’s a comprehensive look at strategies to get the best buys. Plus, a shopping list of 750 Smart Buys at $25 or less. March 31, 2020 Powered by the great 2017 vintage, Oregon Pinot Noirs continue to impress, a success exemplified by Beaux Frere’s Mike Etzel. With a buying guide to 2017 Bordeaux. April 30, 2020 Italy makes magic when it comes to craftsmanship. Here are recommendations for great wines, foods and more from regional artisans. Piedmont releases the classic 2015 vintage. May 31, 2020 Vintner Robin Lail has deep roots in Napa, and is creating her own legacy there. Red Burgundy delivers both quantity and quality with the 2017 vintage. Jun. 15 & 30, 2020 Though…

Joy of Discovery I want to applaud Wine Spectator for its long-standing and ongoing commitment to featuring new and relatively unknown wines from less-traveled regions of the word. I have traveled all over, visiting wine regions, and discovering new wines from lesser-known appellations is one of the greatest joys of such trips. For example, on a trip to the Vaucluse region of France, home to the famous Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, I discovered the often equally good but much less expensive wines from the villages of Gigondas, Vacqueyras, Rasteau, Seguret and Sablet. I have had similar discoveries in Sicily, Puglia and the Dordogne, just to name a few. The Oct. 31 issue’s feature on the hidden gems of the Veneto region of Italy hit the “discovery” mark—and I appreciated the layout including…

The whisky world counterpart to Wine Spectator’s annual Top 100 wines of the year comes from our sister publication Whisky Advocate. It’s called the Top 20 and uses parameters very similar to the Top 100 by considering quality, price and availability. In browsing this year’s selections, we identified five that hold special appeal for wine lovers looking to explore the spirit. Feel free to add water to lower the proof and release more flavors, especially in versions with 50% ABV or higher. LARCENY BARREL PROOF (Batch B520) No. 1 in the Top 20 61.1% | $50 | PANEL RATING 95 | STRAIGHT BOURBON This Bourbon features wheat rather than rye as the secondary grain to corn. It displays the soft, sweet, fruity profile typical of “wheaters,” with heaps of bakery…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 95 OKONOMIERAT REBHOLZ Riesling Pfalz Kastanienbusch GG 2019 $125 GERMANY A mineral note is joined by complex white peach and grapefruit flavors in this supple white, with the vibrant structure keeping it all intact. COLLECTIBLE 96 GIUSEPPE RINALDI Barolo Tre Tine 2016 $250 ITALY Kirsch, cherry and floral aromas and flavors kick off, augmented by eucalyptus, tar, tobacco and mineral notes. Tightly wound, this is more expressive than austere. SMART BUY 91 LAFOND Syrah Sta. Rita Hills SRH 2016 $24 CALIFORNIA This sleek red is compelling, with black raspberry flavors that show a whiff of smoky meat and cracked pepper. BEST VALUE 88 LOS VASCOS Cabernet Sauvignon Colchagua 2018 $12 CHILE Supple and well-knit, with loamy notes to the ripe dark fruit and cooking spice flavors, followed by…

Piedmont produces a wide range of red and white wines. But when wine lovers think of the Langhe’s rolling, vine-covered hills at the foot of the Alps, Barolo and Barbaresco are foremost in their minds. In terms of ageability and future enjoyment, these two DOCG reds, both made from the Nebbiolo grape, represent the best Piedmont has to offer. A top-quality Barolo ranks among the best wines in the world. As it ages, a Barolo’s primary fruit is absorbed into the wine, leaving an essence of ripe fruit that melds with the tar, licorice and floral elements, developing a haunting bouquet. The tautness of Barolo‘s structure increases as you move west (Barolo and La Morra) to east (Monforte d’Alba and Serralunga d’Alba). Lower in elevation, Barbaresco’s proximity to the Tanaro…

California is among the wine world’s most prominent regions for cellarworthy, collectible reds, driven primarily by Cabernet from Napa Valley. These reds can be approachable in their youth, delivering rich texture and copious fruit. But they age well too. Many hit their peak at about 10 years and then gracefully plateau; a handful of bottlings develop further, peaking at 20 years. California Cabernet generally doesn’t live as long as the Cabernet-based reds from Bordeaux, but neither does it shut down the way young Bordeaux does, so you can enjoy California versions over a longer period of time as you watch them develop. Prices for Napa Cabs in particular have spiked since the 1990s, with increasing demand for the wines coming in tandem with rising land and labor costs. The entry…

With the 2018 vintage, the Port producers of Portugal’s Douro Valley saw the fourth straight harvest to deliver a batch of high quality Vintage Ports. Though not in the league of 2017 or 2016, the 2018s are very solid, giving lovers of Port plenty to cherry-pick. “What stands out in the 2018s is that they combine the freshness and purity of fruit of the 2016s with the structure and dimension of the 2017s,” says David Guimaraens, winemaker for the Fladgate Partnership, which includes the Port houses of Taylor’s, Fonseca, Krohn and Croft. “They are a great combination of the best features of both 2016 and 2017, in perfect balance.” I agree with Guimaraens’s comparison in terms of the profile of the vintage. But while the 2018s are marked by ripe…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 96 Fontanafredda Barolo La Rosa 2016 $125 ITALY On the savory side, this red opens with freshly mowed grass, hay and eucalyptus aromas before revealing cherry, strawberry, rose and mineral flavors. Fleshy, with a matrix of dense tannins flexing their muscles on the finish. Shows excellent potential. Best from 2023 through 2042. 1,000 cases made, 250 cases imported.—B.S. 96 Taylor Fladgate Vintage Port 2018 $120PORTUGAL Remarkably harmonious already, with a beautiful display of unadulterated blueberry, blackberry and plum sauce flavors that fan out, while anise, ganache and cassis accents fill in. So lush and seductive through the finish, it’s nearly drinkable. But just wait. Best from 2030…

CHILE 92 Vina Santa Ema Carmenere Peumo Amplus One 2018 $30 See Smart Buys, page 75. 92 Vina Tarapaca Etiqueta Azul Gran Reserva Maipo Valley 2017 $45 Pure and juicy, with a refined mix of dried cherry, berry and wild herbal flavors backed by lithe acidity. Finish is filled with bright minerality and spiciness. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Malbec, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Drink now through 2024. 3,500 cases made, 1,600 cases imported.—K.M. 91 Vina Santa Carolina Chardonnay Itata Valley Reserva de Familia 2017 $20 Pure and rich, this is filled with a vibrant mix of dried white fruit and ripe citrus flavors that turn toasty midpalate. The buttery finish is long and well-spiced. Drink now through 2023. 1,100 cases made, 500 cases imported.—K.M. 90 Vina Quebrada de Macul Alba…

When American chef David Kinch was a young cook in France in the 1970s and ’80s, he was heavily influenced by the rigor, discipline and classical canon of French cuisine. In 2002, that dedication culminated in the opening of Manresa, his Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner in Los Gatos, Calif. In 2017, Kinch celebrated the restaurant’s 15th anniversary by closing Manresa for a month and taking his team to France to collaborate with three renowned kitchens, and it was all caught on film by French director Remi Anfosso. The result is A Chef’s Voyage, now available on Amazon Prime, Apple TV and iTunes. Kinch, who has an Emmy Award for his work on the PBS series The Mind of a Chef, says he was intrigued by how…

“From an emotional point of view, pots de crème remind me of when I was a kid and we ate that pudding from a box,” says Thomas Keller, chef and restaurateur. “Anything that reminds you of childhood moments like that makes people happy.” Keller has a new cookbook, The French Laundry, Per Se (Artisan), celebrating the beautiful food served at his two Wine Spectator Grand Award–winning restaurants. But every time I speak with him I am reminded of how down-to-earth he is. My impression is that he wants to inspire joy at the table more than anything else. The tenor of his restaurants Ad Hoc and the Bouchon bistros and bakeries is more casual but still focused on joy. Bouchon Bakery pastry chef Nick Bonamico supplied this recipe, which he…

he start of a new year can be about looking back even as you look ahead. Recently I found myself applying this mentality to the state of Italian wine—what role Italy’s bottlings play for the palate of wine lovers now, and where the industry will go in the coming years. Italian vintners spent much of their energy in the latter half of the 20th century perfecting their cellar work. The implementation of modern equipment and techniques allowed producers to innovate and improve while exploring their winemaking traditions and employing them with greater precision. Looking ahead, I believe Italian wine producers will see the greatest rewards by focusing on the vineyards. “Modern viticulture has really only begun in the past 15 years,” says Antonio Capaldo, president of Campania’s Feudi di San…

For a long time, Champagne was associated with prestige and privilege, with vast wine collections ensconced in ancient cellars. But enjoying aged Champagne can be a reality for almost every wine lover. The methods specific to Champagne’s complicated production process yield bottlings already cellared under ideal conditions. Champagne’s chefs de cave are required to age vintage-dated bottlings for at least three years before release, but many hold the wines for a decade or more. And these wines’ inherent acidic structure and minerality, products of the region’s northerly climate and chalk and clay soils, support additional aging in personal cellars. A true Champagne lover will enjoy aged non-vintage as well as vintage-dated bottlings, but the vintage category is the surer bet to cellar. As a general rule, producers bottle vintage Champagne…

Tuscany is a diverse region, ranging from sea level at the coast to more than 5,700 feet at the peak of Monte Amiata, near Montalcino. The workhorse grape is Sangiovese, the source of Tuscany’s DOCG wines and the key grape in many of the region’s long-lived reds. In young wines, Sangiovese’s flavors range from strawberry, cherry and currant to iron, sanguine, earth, tobacco and balsamic. As it mellows, leather, spice and woodsy sotto bosco elements emerge along with mushroom and a core of sweet red fruit. Chianti Classico, by law comprising a minimum of 80% Sangiovese, typically has the highest acidity and tension. The clay soils of Montepulciano yield wines that tend to be more robust, with dense tannins; these reds must be at least 70% Sangiovese. Brunello di Montalcino…

California Pinot Noir continues to evolve, with more structured and balanced examples drawing fans over from the riper versions that formerly held sway. This gives collectors a chance to see an emerging category blossom in the cellar. Pinot Noir is grown up and down the main coastal regions, usually the cooler the better, especially on sites that lie close to the fog banks that shroud the Pacific shore in summer. Vintners are striving for greater transparency of site; thus, there has been a surge in single-vineyard bottlings. Many are made in small quantities, but if you can’t find a given release, chances are there will be other bottlings of equal caliber from the same winery. Leading AVAs include Anderson Valley in Mendocino County; Sonoma Coast and Russian River Valley in…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Thomas Matthews Spain Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile James Laube California Bruce Sanderson Austria, Burgundy, Germany, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand…

CALIFORNIA Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 94 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Calistoga Kenefick Ranch 2018 $125 This red features a nice dark core of cassis and creamed plum notes laced with violet, graphite and juniper hints. The finish flows wonderfully, with the graphite edge extending as long as the fruit for lovely balance. Best from 2022 through 2034. 2,368 cases made.—J.M. 94 Nickel & Nickel Cabernet Sauvignon Howell Mountain Beatty Ranch 2018 $150 Intense, with tarry grip throughout supporting well-packed cassis, plum reduction and açaí berry paste flavors. There’s a buried graphite spine on the finish, with flashes of licorice snap and violet. Built for the cellar. Best from 2023 through 2040. 714 cases made.—J.M. 94 Pott Cabernet Sauvignon Spring Mountain District Kaliholmanok Kicu Ma Vineyard 2018 $150This is packed…