Indholdsfortegnelse for October 15, 2021 i Wine Spectator

Famed Bordeaux châteaus Cheval-Blanc and Ausone have withdrawn from the St.-Émilion classification, their decision reverberating through the region like a clap of thunder. June 30 was the last day to submit the lengthy applications necessary to be considered for the 2022 renewal of the rankings, which are typically reviewed once a decade. To the astonishment of some and resignation of many, two dossiers were missing—those of Château Cheval-Blanc, owned by LVMH and the Frère family, and Château Ausone, owned by the Vauthier family. Both estates have been ranked in the classification’s top category, Premier Grand Cru Classé A, since the inception of the rankings in the 1950s. “We had planned on presenting our candidacy, but the list of criteria for evaluation moves too far from what we feel is fundamental:…

Are you forgoing wine to cut calories? Maybe you shouldn’t. As one food scientist pointed out during a recent online health seminar, moderate wine intake with meals may help boost metabolism and support weight loss. Numerous diets these days suggest that participants eliminate or cut back on alcohol because the ethanol in each glass contributes calories. A flood of new alcoholic beverages tout their low calorie count, even if they’re loaded with sugar and artificial flavors. Rosa Lamuela-Raventos, associate professor of nutrition and food science at the University of Barcelona and member of the Spanish Biomedical Research Centre in Physiopathology of Obesity and Nutrition, presented her support for moderate wine consumption at “Wine and Weight Management: Is It Possible?” a virtual event on June 8 hosted by the organization Wine…

Spain’s delicious exports aren’t limited to great wines. The country also makes some of the absolute best of a food where the competition is stiff: jamón serrano and jamón Iberico. These hams are still relatively unknown in the U.S., mainly because government regulations regarding cured meat, as with raw milk cheeses, are challenging for producers using traditional methods. Carrie Blakeman of the Rogers Collection, who imported the first jamóns here in 2007, had to explain to the producer why the market was hesitant: “We told them, Americans know what prosciutto is; they don’t know what jamón is.” Expect fuller flavor than in other hams, and creamy fat. Look for a few words when shopping. “Serrano” is dry cured ham from several breeds of white pigs. The minimum aging time after…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 95 BURN COTTAGE Pinot Noir Central Otago Burn Cottage Vineyard 2018 $65 NEW ZEALAND Generous and pure, with maraschino cherry, raspberry puree and red licorice flavors on a plush, velvety frame, expanding into details of sandalwood, white truffle, rosemary and cardamom. COLLECTIBLE 95 CHATEAU DE BEAUCASTEL Chateauneuf-du-Pape 2018 $100_FRANCE Really pure in profile, this red is alluring in feel, delivering cassis and cherry puree flavors seamlessly layered with melted red licorice and fruitcake notes. SMART BUY 92 DRY CREEK Fume Blanc Sonoma County 2020 $16 CALIFORNIA Fresh and effusive, with lemongrass, lemon verbena and ginger notes to complement the juicy lemon-lime, green apple and ruby grapefruit flavors. Mouthwatering. BEST VALUE 89 MARCHESI DI BAROLO Barbera del Monferrato Maraia 2019 $13 ITALY Macerated plum, loam and almond flavors mark…

96 Fontodi Colli della Toscana Centrale Flaccianello 2018 $159 ITALY Ripe black cherry, black currant and blackberry fruit is beautifully displayed on the harmonious structure in this red. Violet, iron and juniper notes add depth, while the aftertaste gets lift from the lively acidity and dusty tannins. Sangiovese. Best from 2024 through 2043. 4,000 cases made, 1,600 cases imported.—B.S. 96 Paolo Scavino Barolo Rocche dell’ Annunziata Riserva 2015 $173 ITALY This is complex and fresh, offering cherry, strawberry, sun-kissed hay, eucalyptus and mineral flavors. Seems to be closing down, with dense tannins prevailing on the finish, yet there’s also energy and length. Be patient. Best from 2024 through 2043. 508 cases made, 203 cases imported.—B.S. 95 Antinori Toscana Solaia 2018 $345 ITALY Vibrant black currant, violet, vanilla and toasty oak…

90 Philippe Viallet Vin de Savoie 2020 $14 FRANCE Pretty, with unadorned star fruit, fennel and jasmine notes laced with a hint of lime zest on the breezy finish. Jacquère, Chasselas, Chardonnay and Altesse. Drink now through 2022. 43,000 cases made, 7,000 cases imported.—J.M. 89 Marchesi di Barolo Barbera del Monferrato Maraia 2019 $13 ITALY Macerated plum, loam and almond flavors mark this dense, rustic red, which is fresh, ending with earth and underbrush accents. Drink now. 6,000 cases imported.—B.S. 88 Casasmith Cabernet Sauvignon-Sangiovese Washington Vino Rosso 2018 $12 WASHINGTON A zesty red, with lively black cherry and savory spice flavors. Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese. Drink now through 2027. 16,539 cases made.—T.F. 88 Kirkland Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2019 $9 WASHINGTON Offers handsome black cherry, spice and tobacco flavors…

I’ve met few people more passionate about life, or wine, than Cristie Kerr. While she has achieved an extraordinary career in professional golf, it is her love of wine that has propelled her over the past decade and promises a bright future. Kerr’s proficiency as a golfer was apparent from an early age; she played in her first National Junior tournament at just 12 years old. Over the next few decades, she has gone on to earn 20 Ladies Professional Golf Association (LPGA) tour wins and 22 professional wins, crowned by the U.S. Women’s Open in 2007 and the LPGA championship in 2010. She is America’s top-earning female golfer of all time. In our cover story, senior editor MaryAnn Worobiec reports how Kerr is bringing the same drive and dedication…

One of the most fascinating corners in the wine world today is Weston, Mo., just outside of Kansas City. Missouri has a rich wine history. Before Prohibition changed the course of the U.S. wine industry, it was the second-largest wine producing state, after Ohio. Many don’t realize that the first AVA was Missouri’s Augusta region, established in 1980; Napa Valley came eight months later. Today, Missouri is where TerraVox (Latin for “voice of the earth”) is based, a winery cultivating grapes native to North America. Founder Jerry Eisterhold grew up on a farm in the Show Me state, and studied agronomy at the University of Missouri. Now he’s the lead propagator of forgotten grapes in the region. What are these American heritage grapes? Chances are you’ve never heard of them.…

1997 Joined the Ladies Professional Golf Association (LPGA) Tour 2002 First victory; has since accumulated 20 LPGA tour wins and 22 total professional wins 2007 Winner U.S. Women’s Open 2010 Winner LPGA Championship 2010 Became the first American to reach No. 1 in the Official Rolex World Golf Rankings; ranked No. 1 three times during 2010; spent 410 consecutive weeks ranked in the Top 10 2011 Honored with the Muhammad Ali award for Sportsperson of the Year 2011 & 2013 ESPY Award for Female Golfer of the Year Career Winnings Over $20 million; top-earning American female golfer of all time and third all-time in LPGA history More 182 Top 10 finishes Nine Solheim Cup teams; top U.S. point-earner of all-time…

Ifthe 2018 vintage in Washington were a novel, it would be a page-turner until the final chapter, when the heroes are victorious. “It was a very challenging vintage,” says vintner Christophe Baron of Cayuse, with many difficulties along the way. But in the end, the state’s winemakers were rewarded, producing their best wines since the classic-rated 2012s. It wasn’t an easy win, but that’s an increasingly familiar scenario in Washington, with growers and winemakers working harder to uphold quality as the summers grow incrementally hotter. That’s my takeaway based on blind tastings of more than 350 wines in our Napa office since my previous report (“The Big Heat,” Sept. 30, 2020). Half of those wines are 2018s and the rest mostly 2017s, which remain plentiful in the market. With more…

Offering an array of juicy flavors, vibrant white wines thrive in regions throughout the New World, where producers have mastered the art of matching grapes to climate and soil. In the historic vineyards of Europe, this balance evolved over centuries, which is how specific grapes came to be associated with specific areas, such as Chardonnay in Burgundy; Viognier and Grenache Blanc in the Rhône; Riesling in Germany and Austria; and Sauvignon Blanc in the Loire, Bordeaux and northeastern Italy. These grapes have each found new homes in far-flung places all over the map. Australia, Washington and California are particularly diverse when it comes to value, while New Zealand, with Sauvignon Blanc, and New York, with Riesling, make strong showings as well. Not to be outdone, Argentina, Chile and South Africa…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chile Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany, Germany, Austria James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Italy, Champagne, Alsace, South…

ARGENTINA Malbec & Blends 93 Alta Vista Malbec Agrelo Serenade Single Vineyard 2017 $50 Vibrantly plush and well-spiced flavors of dark currant, soy and beef carpaccio are backed by firm acidity and tannins. Intense chocolate nib notes midpalate lead to a long and spicy finish. Drink now through 2026. 658 cases made, 130 cases imported.—K.M. 92 Alta Vista Malbec Uco Valley Temis El Cepillo Single Vineyard 2017 $50 Ripe and rich-tasting, with resinous power to the dark plum and cherry paste flavors that loaded with Asian spice accents. The creamy finish lingers with hints of dried meat and soy. Drink now through 2026. 710 cases made, 70 cases imported.—K.M. 92 Bodega El Esteco Chanar Punco Calchaqui Valley 2016 $70 Decadent flavors of ripe dark plum, dark currant and cherry paste…

A historic heat wave that blanketed Oregon and Washington at the end of June had winemakers chewing their nails. After assessing the impact on vineyards, growers reported that damage was negligible, but there’s concern that it’s a sign of worse to come. “As brutal as the heat wave was, the vines did fairly well,” says winegrower Sam Tannahill, a partner in A to Z Wine-works and Rex Hill in Willamette Valley. “We have never seen this level of heat before, so all bets were off.” The heat hit on June 25, with temps growing progressively warmer through June 28. Portland, Ore., broke records, hitting 116° F at one point. Dundee, 30 miles south of Portland and the heart of Willamette Valley, reached an unprecedented 108° F on June 28. “Thankfully,…

2021 is shaping up to be the year of Anthony Bourdain, with two books and a movie celebrating and extending the work and legacy of the chef turned author and media star who died by suicide in 2018. Even as Bourdain’s book Kitchen Confidential: Adventures in the Culinary Underbelly (Bloomsbury) climbed the bestseller lists in 2000, no one could have guessed that this brash, 44-year-old chef and former drug addict would later reach the stature of a foul-mouthed Edward R. Murrow. Yet that’s what happened, as he found his public persona first on travel series with a culinary focus and later delving fearlessly into the complexities of politics and history, with the everyday humanity of people affected by it. The first book to come out this year was World Travel: An…

Twin Peaks Washington has a solid track record with both reds and whites, evidenced by this selection. Cabernet Sauvignon has proven successful in varietal bottlings and blends, including Guardian’s Chalk Line, which combines Cabernet with Syrah and Merlot. The state shows its mettle with whites by way of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Gris, all offering excellent value. SPARKMAN Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley Holler 2018 (93, $32) Blackberry, mocha espresso, dusky spice; gutsy, refined GUARDIAN Chalk Line Columbia Valley 2018 (92, $25) Structured, generous; blackberry, toasty cinnamon, mocha MILBRANDT Cabernet Sauvignon Columbia Valley 2018 (90, $18) Vibrant, snappy; black cherry, bay leaf, spice NINE HATS Pinot Gris Columbia Valley 2019 (90, $18) Floral, nectarine, peach, jasmine blossom; expressive, steely WINES OF SUBSTANCE Chardonnay Columbia Valley Ch Substance 2019 (90, $18)…

It was a dramatic summer in Washington’s Columbia Valley, a wine region that ordinarily goes about its business with few theatrics. In the same week in early July, two major news stories broke: The entire Quilceda Creek winemaking team jumped ship to another winery, while the state’s largest producer, Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, was sold to a private equity firm for $1.2 billion. Quilceda Creek is Washington’s most elite Cabernet Sauvignon producer, so a sudden shift in winemaking generated gossip and buzz around the state and beyond. The sale of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates is more sensational and impactful but less surprising; the company struggled in recent years as sales dropped precipitously. Let’s start with Quilceda Creek. There’s nothing unusual about a winemaker changing jobs, but what happens when a…

Though Spain’s wine production is 80% red, the country’s whites have a long history too, offering diverse styles and distinctive character. They are well worth seeking out. The top-scoring white this year comes from Rioja. The elegant Bodegas Marqués de Murrieta Rioja White Capellanía 2016 (94, $31) is an exceptional single-vineyard wine made from Viura grapes aged for 16 months in French oak barrels. Other noteworthy whites include the opulent Losada Vinos de Finca Godello Bierzo 2019 (93, $33), the vivid Ossian Viño de la Tierra de Castilla y León White Capitel 2017 (92, $65), the tropical fruit–infused Bodega Burdigala Rueda Campo Elíseo 2019 (91, $22) and the fleshy Edetària Terra Alta White Selecció Vinyes Velles 2018 (91, $30). The lush region of Galicia, located in northwest Spain, produces some…

93 Gorman Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain Old Scratch 2019 $32 WASHINGTON Brooding in structure yet lively, with red currant, orange peel and sandalwood accents that build tension toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2030. 1,800 cases made.—T.F. 92 Dry Creek Fume Blanc Sonoma County 2020 $16 CALIFORNIA Fresh and effusive, with lemongrass, lemon verbena and fresh ginger notes to complement the core of juicy lemon-lime, green apple and ruby grapefruit flavors. Juicy and mouthwatering on the vibrant finish. Drink now. 29,000 cases made.—M.W. 92 Ant Moore Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough Estate Series 2020 $17 NEW ZEALAND Vibrant, juicy and wonderfully intense, showing off fleshy notes of passion fruit, mango and citrus, with mouthwatering acidity and a touch of saline and lemongrass on the finish. Drink now. 15,000 cases made, 12,000 cases…

CALIFORNIA Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 95 Snowden Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Brothers Vineyard 2018 $90 This is ripe, warm in feel and very polished, with alluring cassis, plum reduction and melted black licorice notes pouring through, while sleek alder, loam and bay leaf accents form the backdrop for a long, steady finish. Gorgeous. Best from 2022 through 2038. 673 cases made.—J.M. 94 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley Sacrashe Vineyard 2018 $350 Enticing, with dark fig and boysenberry reduction flavors pumping through, laced with dark licorice and coated with a glossy toast treatment on the finish. Best from 2022 through 2036. 290 cases made.—J.M. 94 Scarecrow Cabernet Sauvignon Rutherford 2018 $450 A ripe and refined wine that moves through steadily and assuredly, with cassis, plum reduction, loam, tobacco and savory notes…

Philadelphia 76er Seth Curry is joining basketball's elite wine circle. Curry, who spent the 2018–’19 season with the Portland Trail Blazers, not far from the Willamette Valley, recently partnered with Oregon's Maysara winery to make Triskelion Pinot Noir McMinnville Momtazi Vineyard 2016. Ten percent of pro-ceeds will go to Social Change Fund United (SCFU), which supports underrepresented communities of color. The group was founded by NBA stars (and wine lovers) Carmelo Anthony, Chris Paul and Dwyane Wade. According to Curry's wife, Callie, who also serves on the SCFU advisory council, moving to Portland turned Curry on to the local wine scene and into a serious col-lector. Maysara was founded by Moe Momtazi, an Ira-nian immigrant who moved his family to Oregon in 1990 to pursue winemaking. "We had been ap-proached…