Indholdsfortegnelse for October 31, 2021 i Wine Spectator

Caleb Ganzer, coowner, managing director and wine director of popular New York City restaurant La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels, has been arrested and charged with arson for allegedly setting fire to garbage and to outdoor dining structures in lower Manhattan in three separate incidents this year. According to the New York Fire Department, Ganzer allegedly set fire to an outdoor dining structure owned by Forsythia Restaurant on Stanton Street on Jan. 8. On June 26, a pile of garbage was set ablaze in the early morning hours on a street corner just down the block from La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels. The latest fire occurred on July 13 at an outdoor dining structure owned by Prince Street Pizza. La Compagnie des Vins Surnaturels opened in New York’s Nolita neighborhood in…

Salt is a flavor enhancer; this is without question. Since time immemorial it has been used to render nutritious but unappetizing foods delicious, to make sustenance pleasurable. Even the Bible refers to it, and uses it as a metaphor for life’s challenges: “Can that which is unsavory be eaten without salt?/ Or is there any taste in the white of an egg?” (Job 6:6) Salt has been showing up more and more in fine chocolate. It’s a little surprising because we associate salt with savory foods, but in the case of chocolate it doesn’t just enhance flavor. In a recent conversation Dr. Danielle Reed, associate director of Monell Chemical Senses Center, which researches taste and smell, in Philadelphia explained, “The unexpected power of salt is to block bitterness, so one…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 95 ROCCA DI MONTEGROSSI Toscana Ridolfo 2015 $200 1.5L ITALY This firmly structured red is a beautiful expression of varietal character, showing pure cherry and strawberry fruit, with accents of menthol, earth, iron and tobacco. Cabernet Sauvignon and Pugnitello. COLLECTIBLE 97 RIDGE Monte Bello Santa Cruz Mountains 2018 $230 CALIFORNIA Very expressive, with warmed blueberry compote, menthol, sweet bay leaf, steeped açaí berry and zesty sassafras notes, carried by brambly grip and a cast iron spine. Cabernet Sauvignon blend. SMART BUY 90 BOUNDARY BREAKS Riesling Finger Lakes Dry No. 239 2019 $20 NEW YORK A bright, floral style, with lots of honeysuckle and acacia notes leading the way for lemon peel and yellow apple fruit flavors, followed by a zingy finish. BEST VALUE 89 TRIVENTO Malbec Mendoza Reserve…

During appassimento, the grapes undergo a dramatic transformation, losing 30% to 40% of their weight via water evaporation, which changes the ratio of skin, seed and pulp. Chemically, acidity decreases and sugar increases, making the resulting wine drier and richer in taste, darker in color and silkier in texture. Traditionally, grapes for Amarone were placed on straw mats in fruttaios, drying buildings located on windy hillsides. Today, most producers have replaced the mats with more sanitary plastic crates, using technology to maintain peak conditions. In 1998, Allegrini partnered with other leading producers to open Terre di Fumane, a state-of-the-art drying facility. The goal was to eliminate the development of botrytis, the source of oxidative flavors. Producers in the region rent space at Terre di Fumane (and at Terre di Fumane…

SINGLE MALT SCOTCH PORT 91 pts. The Balvenie PortWood 21 year old (40% ABV, $220) A final finish in 30-year-old Port pipes lends this well-aged malt flavors of plums, red berry and milk chocolate. SHERRY 92 pts. Oban Distillers Edition (Bottled in 2019) (43% ABV, $95) Distilled in 2005 with a final finish in Montilla Fino casks, this limited edition delivers rose petal and bitter chocolate. RED 93 pts. Aberfeldy 18 year old French Red Wine Cask-Finished (Batch 2920) (43% ABV, $120) The four to five months spent in wine casks from Bordeaux’s Pauillac enhance this whisky with Fig Newton and dried cherry notes. WHITE & DESSERT 88 pts. Glenmorangie Nectar d’Or 12 year old (46% ABV, $77) Finely balanced sweetness, rich texture and flavors of apricot and grapes result…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 98 Macdonald Cabernet Sauvignon Oakville 2018 $185 CALIFORNIA This is pumping along nicely, with a torrent of cassis and crushed plum fruit at first, followed quickly by a second wave of steeped black-berry and boysenberry flavors. Underneath there’s a well-embedded singed alder note and a steady tug of warm, gravelly earth. Racy licorice snap and sassafras notes chime through the finish, adding more energy to what is already an impressively terroir-driven wine. Best from 2022 through 2040. 500 cases made.—J.M. 96 Domaine Huet Vouvray Demi-Sec Le Haut-Lieu 2020 $42 FRANCE This broad, striking white is elegant and rich with complexity, featuring green melon, yellow fig, ginger…

ITALY Other 94 ArPePe Valtellina Superiore Grumello Buon Consiglio Riserva 2013 $105 This perfumed red exudes aromas and flavors of crushed raspberry and pureed strawberry, exotic spice and graphite, dried marjoram and thyme. Finely knit, with silky tannins and mouthwatering, citrus peel acidity. A graceful version with a lasting, mineral-laced finish. Drink now through 2028. 500 cases made, 175 cases imported.—A.N. 93 ArPePe Valtellina Superiore Sassella Rocce Rosse Riserva 2013 $105  Rich aromas and flavors of steeped mulberry and raspberry fruit, tea rose and fragrant, stemmy herb are set in this elegant, medium- to full-bodied red, framed by bright acidity and chalky tan-nins that firm the spiced finish. Best from 2023 through 2030. 1,000 cases made, 325 cases imported.—A.N. 91 Illuminati Controguerra Lumen Riserva 2015 $50 Hints of leather and…

Throughout the history of humankind, we have always needed a way to separate work from play. Whether that meant clocking out and ending a day of hunting and gathering by starting an evening of drinking and eating, or today meaning closing the laptop in order to open up the beer fridge, a glass of something nice has always been at the forefront. Here’s a fun look at how happy hours may have been celebrated throughout the ages, eras, and epochs.…

When bar culture was temporarily suspended last year due to the pandemic, we were all hurting. Thankfully, many states temporarily legalized the sale of to-go cocktails to help the hospitality industry bring in some much-needed revenue, and allow the rest of us to support our local businesses. Restaurants and bars were quick to adapt once these new laws were in place, with many designing their own branded to-go cocktail packaging. Currently, 14 states, plus D.C., have made to-go cocktail sales permanently legal. Here’s a roundup of some cool ones to check out.…

When it comes to celebrities, some say the bigger they are the nicer they are. Musical artist, philanthropist and wine lover Jon Bon Jovi, who has achieved worldwide fame, certainly lives up to that statement. Despite his international stardom, when you sit down to lunch with the man, he seems almost unaware of all that he has accomplished. Far from the expected rock star persona, Jon Bon Jovi is as humble and straightforward a gentleman as I’ve ever met. Much of his genuine warmth and humility might be attributed to his upbringing, and our cover story profiles Bon Jovi from an early age. His parents were unusually supportive of the rock star aspirations of a teenage son. With his family and longtime wife, Dorothea, backing him, Bon Jovi pursued his…

In our August issue this year, we reported on an incredible rebirth of restaurants across America as vaccines went in arms and people started dining-out free of fear again. After the darkest year of their professional lives, chefs, sommeliers and restaurateurs were tired but eager to serve people once more. The caveat, we wrote: “Concerns remain, the biggest one being the large number of Americans who remain hesitant to being vaccinated. Because COVID-19 spreads so easily, even from people who show no symptoms, it’s possible the virus could surge again as people unmask. The more unvaccinated people who contract it, the more likely it is to mutate into yet a new variant that is resistant to the current vaccines.” This wasn’t particularly prescient. In fact, it was obvious. The only…

1 Farming The region’s Corvina, Corvinone and Rondinella varieties, along with Oseleta, Croatina and other approved grapes, are grown and harvested, with harvest typically occurring in October. 2 Appassimento Over the course of up to four months after harvest, the grape bunches are airdried in cool, windy locations or climate-controlled facilities, dramatically transforming their physical and chemical makeup. 3 Winemaking After appassimento, the grapes are pressed and fermented as red wine. Pressing can legally take place as early as Dec. 1, but many top producers wait until late January or early February. 4 Maturation The finished wine is aged for at least two years prior to release, or four years if labeled as riserva. Many quality producers age their Amarone even longer, from five to 10 years in total.…

Only a decade ago, the Guyot vine-training system was nearly ubiquitous among quality-minded producers in Valpolicella, and many today still use it. The Guyot system is a cane-pruning method that mandates cutting back the previous year’s growth to select one spur for production in the upcoming season. This reduces yields, potentially limits the development of disease and protects against frost in cool-climate regions. Yet over the past decade, the impact of climate change has motivated several producers to return to the pergola system, once considered a relic of the industrialized period of Italy’s bulk wine production. The pergola system’s overhead vine-training creates a horizontal screen of shade for grape bunches below. It’s good protection against the warmer, sunnier seasons that are increasingly the norm in the region, promoting a longer,…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below); notes for wines scoring 84 points or less are included at the discretion of the taster. Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Kim Marcus California Chardonnay, Merlot and Pinot Noir, Argentina, Chil Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany, Germany, Austria James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Sauvignon Blanc and other whites, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Italy, Champagne, Alsace, South Africa Tim Fish California Zinfandel…

Add Honey, You’re Home One of the first classic cocktails to emerge during the 2000s cocktail renaissance, the Gold Rush is essentially a riff on a Whiskey Sour. One night at a neo-speakeasy on the Lower East Side of Manhattan, the bartender who had just finished his shift and was relaxing with a night cap decided to swap simple syrup with a rich honey syrup when making a traditional Whiskey Sour. Such a simple change, but the result was extraordinary—honey syrup adds sweet depth to the bright fresh citrus and vanilla-caramel notes of Maker’s Mark®. With a few other tweaks, it’s easy to make the Gold Rush your own. Classic Maker’s Mark® Gold Rush 2 parts of Maker’s Mark® Bourbon¾ part honey syrup*¾ part fresh squeezed lemon juiceAdd all ingredients…

Think Again I found senior editor Alison Napjus’ short article “Elegance in Wine” (Columns, June 15 & 30) to be a delightful take. Napjus likens elegance to balance even with regards to more powerful and broad-shouldered wines such as certain Napa Cabernets. I usually find when I use the term “elegant” to describe a wine, it is not only well-balanced but also sleek in build rather than powerful. I realize that a wine can be both elegant and powerful at the same time, like many of my favorite Burgundies (Domaine Dujac and Jouan come to mind). Many times I use the word elegant to describe a wine that is “airy” in weight or comes across as precise; oftentimes “effortless.” Wines that have good “minerality” come to mind as well. That…

Mosel Magic There’s something enchanting about the juicy stone fruit, lime, slate and floral aromas and flavors of a young Riesling from the steep slopes of Germany’s Mosel Valley. The mouth-watering acidity in these young whites keeps you coming back for another sip. SCHLOSS LIESER Riesling Kabinett Mosel Juffer 2019 (95, $31) Harmonious, complex, vibrant; apricot, peach, lime, slate FRITZ HAAG Riesling Spätlese Mosel Brauneberger Juffer Sonnenuhr 2019 (94, $42) Peach, apricot, lime, saline, mineral; scintillating, intense FRITZ HAAG Riesling Kabinett Mosel Brauneberger Juffer 2019 (93, $26) Fragrant, detailed; lilac, freesia, peach, star fruit, slate, spice SCHLOSS LIESER Riesling Kabinett Mosel SL 2019 (93, $20) Apricot, peach, lime blossom; balanced, rich, juicy DR. PAULY-BERGWEILER Riesling Spätlese Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2019 (92, $28) Vibrant; peach, apricot, orange cream, petrol SELBACH-OSTER Riesling…

This spring millions of Americans received Covid vaccinations, with recipients sharing a hope of resuming our normal lives. Instead, we have a newer normal: variants changing plans and policies, last year’s panic-buying making a resurgence, and ongoing global shipping and supply chain issues causing shortages in a variety of industries. The mask-free outings I enjoyed in early summer are gone. When my dishwasher broke I had to go to my fourth choice before I found one that was in stock. And in New York’s prestigious summer destination the Hamptons, there’s been a shortage of Champagne. At press time in August, wine retailers and restaurateurs were struggling to source inventory to feed the Champagne demands of the rich and fabulous summering in the area. Some business owners anticipated demand and stock-piled…

Recent changes to production requirements for Amarone recognized the local grape Corvinone as a more important component of the wine. Previously, appellation regulations required that Corvina make up 45% to 95% of the blend; today, either Corvina and/or Corvinone may constitute the base. “Now any producer can use either Corvina or Corvinone,” says Marilisa Allegrini. “Corvinone brings more elegance, more subtlety to the blend.” Along with Corvina and/or Corvinone, Rondinella must account for anywhere from 5% to 30% of the blend. As much as an additional 25% can also comprise a range of other varieties: up to 5% to 10% of local grapes and/or 10% to 15% of international and other approved varieties. This laundry list of grapes, from Croatina to Cabernet, represents a departure from the historic blend, which…

90 Castello di Monsanto Chianti Classico Riserva 2018 $28 A straightforward red, offering cherry, strawberry and light earth flavors on an open-knit profile, with moderate length. Sangiovese, Canaiolo and Colorino. Drink now. 26,000 cases made, 17,000 cases imported.—B.S. 90 Poggerino Chianti Classico 2019 $23 Rich fruit flavors of plum, black cherry and blackberry stack up against dense tannins in this vibrant red. Firm and dry, yet balanced and long. Drink now through 2028. 2,900 cases made, 1,100 cases imported.—B.S. 90 Poggio Bonelli Chianti Classico 2018 $24Shows the typical earth, iron and sanguine notes of Sangiovese, along with plum, black cherry and resin flavors. Firm and dry, it leaves a chalky feel on the finish. Drink now through 2028. 4,500 cases made, 1,800 cases imported.—B.S. 90 San Felice Chianti Classico 2019…

Coveted top-shelf American bourbons for your top-shelf whisky bar. Only the best of the best ever clear 90 points by Whisky Advocate. The few whiskies that do are forever part of an elite club. The high hurdle of 90 points is strictly awarded to those that are remarkable examples of their category and the overall craft. Savor these sought-after whiskeys as you refine your palate.…

1 part bourbon or rye3 parts club soda1 lemon slice Add ingredients to a Highball glass filled with ice. 2 oz. bourbon or rye whiskey1 oz. sweet vermouth2 dashes orange bitters maraschino cherry, for garnish Pour whiskey, vermouth, and bitters over ice in a shaker or pitcher. Stir, then strain into a rocks glass. Garnish with the cherry. 2 oz. bourbon or rye1 oz. fresh lemon juice½ oz. simple syrup1 tbsp. egg white (optional) maraschino cherry, for garnish lemon slice, for garnish Combine syrup, lemon juice, and whiskey over ice in a shaker glass. Shake for 15 seconds. To achieve a fizzy froth, add the egg white and shake until your arms tire, then shake some more. Pour into a rocks glass. Garnish with the cherry and lemon slice. 2…