Indholdsfortegnelse for February 28, 2022 i Wine Spectator

Vintage Port’s recent success continues with the just-released 2019 vintage, part of a run that began in 2015. While the new vintage didn’t provide the quality for a classic full declaration by some of the region’s producers, there are impressive versions on offer as well as excellent single-quinta bottlings worth tracking down. In general, the 2019s are elegant Ports that should mature easily over their initial two decades and offer pleasurable drinking from there. This report includes 23 bottlings from 2019, about half the number of wines consumers would have to choose from in a widely declared year. The quality is consistent, with eight wines earning classic scores of 95 points or higher on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale and the rest earning outstanding ratings of 90-plus. Leading the way is…

If you are a fan of wines from Piedmont, the sub-Alpine region in the northwest of Italy (“Piedmont” literally means “foot of the hill”), you likely know about Barolo and Barbaresco, the iconic reds made from the Nebbiolo grape. Yet Piedmont is home to a number of grapes and wines, from the Barbera and Dolcetto reds to the Arneis and Gavi whites. Nebbiolo is also used for Nebbiolo Langhe, a more affordable and entry-level version of its more famous siblings. Most of these selections are go-to, every-day wines from the region, though Dolcetto and Barbera are capable of aging for three to five years. I have had bottlings of both at 10-plus years that evolved beautifully. Nevertheless, I recommend enjoying them on release for their bright, juicy fruit. Most of…

At first glance, Spain’s Rioja appellation—one of the country’s most esteemed Denominacións de Origen (DOs, designations of origin)—seems pretty straightforward. The area is best-known for its red wines based primarily on the Tempranillo grape (often blended with smaller amounts of Garnacha Tinta, Graciano, Mazuelo and Maturana Tinta). Some of these versions can age beautifully for decades. But Rioja is actually quite complex: It’s a large appellation, encompassing hundreds of producers, more than 160,000 acres of vineyards and many stylistic interpretations. And in 2018, Rioja’s wine consortium introduced regulations that allow the region’s three sub-zones—Rioja Alavesa, Rioja Alta and Rioja Oriental—to be listed on labels, at the same time approving 145 village names that could be included on labels as well. For wine lovers, this is a great move toward highlighting…

One of my biggest challenges in covering the wines of Australia is summarizing and communicating the great diversity and regional differences in this exciting winegrowing continent. Although Australia has roughly the same landmass as the contiguous United States and more than 60 winegrowing regions, I find myself describing rich, bold Barossa Shirazes and crisp Hunter Valley Sémillons in the same tasting reports. My Aussie winemaking friends would describe this challenge with the expression “like chalk and cheese”—that all Aussie wines may appear similar to U.S. wine lovers, but they’re quite different, of course. Still, I’m very lucky to cover this category and the passionate winemakers behind the hundreds of outstanding wines I review from Down Under every year. Here, I’ve put together a list of wines made by brands that…

TELL ME IF YOU’VE HEARD THIS ONE BEFORE. The growing season is hot and dry. Well-timed rains just before harvest are a tremendous help to the vines. The resulting wines are rich yet fresh. Overall, the Rhône Valley delivers another strong vintage, with a range of delicious bottlings. This has become a familiar story for this dynamic region, particularly the outsized role that heat and drought play during the growing season. But that doesn’t mean that the wines themselves don’t continue to evolve or that vignerons don’t continue to adapt. In both the northern and southern sections of the valley, a bevy of old-vine vineyards with deep roots, planted to grape varieties wellsuited to the climate, yield wines that seem to shrug off the weather extremes without skipping a beat. Add…

One of the advantages of attending the Wine Experience is tasting wines at various stages of evolution after their release. While Wine Spectator’s Top 10 Wines of 2019 were scheduled to be shown at the (canceled) 2020 event, pouring them in October gave an extra year of age to the wines, which included two Cabernet-based wines—one from Bordeaux and one from California—and a Sangiovese blend from Tuscany. Wine No. 3, the San Giusto a Rentennano Chianti Classico 2016, was served first. Moderating the tasting, senior editor Alison Napjus noted “this wine represents tremendous value. With the appealing price tag and wide availability, this was a no-brainer.” The Martini di Cigala family, which has owned the estate for a century, was unable to attend due to coronavirus-related restrictions; however, Dominic Nocerino…

The fine wines of Italy were little known to United States consumers when Piedmont vintner Angelo Gaja made his first trip to the U.S. nearly 50 years ago. Since then, more than 60 of Gaja’s wines have earned classic ratings of 95 points or more, his children—Gaia, Rossana and Giovanni—have joined him in the family business, and the Gaja name has become one of the most revered among wine lovers. “ The U.S. has been the most important country, and the first among all the countries in the world, to encourage artisanal producers to do better.”—Gaia Gaja Due to pandemic travel restrictions, the Gajas were unable to attend the Wine Experience in person, but their Barolo Conteisa 2014 arrived safely for guests to taste while enjoying a hilarious and touching…

Perhaps no industry has been more economically impacted by the coronavirus pandemic than the restaurant business. According to the National Restaurant Association, sales in 2020 were $240 billion below estimates, and more than 110,000 restaurants closed. But restaurateurs, chefs and sommeliers rallied where they could, finding ways to feed customers and offer wine service during dark times. Since the inception of our Restaurant Awards program in 1981, Wine Spectator has recognized meritorious wine lists. At the pinnacle is the Grand Award, honoring cellars of exceptional breadth and depth. At the 2021 Wine Experience, three new Grand Award winners were honored. For New Orleans landmark Brennan’s, the Grand Award is a comeback story. The French Quarter restaurant first won a Grand Award in 1983. But a prolonged power outage after Hurricane…

For most of us, it’s reflexive: When stocking up on everyday drinking bottles or hunting for delicious value on restaurant lists, we instinctively bypass the Bordeaux section. Bordeaux’s image problem—prohibitively expensive grand châteaus at the top end and entry-level offerings that are frequently thin, tart and uninteresting—means that wine lovers tend to look else-where for value. Yet, one of the most important evolutions in Bordeaux over the past several decades has been the quality strides of its humbler wines in less esteemed appellations. Nowhere is this more evident than in the Côtes de Bordeaux. This relatively new union of four appellations—Côtes de Blaye, Côtes de Castillon, Côtes de Francs and Côtes de Cadillac—came together in 2009 (a fifth, Sainte-Foy, joined in 2016), and today it offers some of the region’s…

Americans have embraced Italy’s softly sparkling Prosecco as their everyday drinking bubbly, charmed as much by its creamy texture and pretty floral and fruit profile as its affordable price point: Most Prosecco Denominazioni di Origini Controllate (DOC), the introductory level for the region’s wines, are around $15 per bottle. But what’s next if you’re a Prosecco lover who wants to upgrade? Look to Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita (DOCG) versions of Prosecco, bottlings from the subzones of Conegliano Valdob-biadene and Asolo. The prices of these wines are typically higher, primarily $20 to $30 per bottle, but there’s also a notable uptick in quality. Ratings for Prosecco DOC wines usually range from 83 to 88 points; ratings for DOCG Prosecco usually start at 88 points and go up, including out-standing…

Vintage Port is extraordinary. It’s also rare—made only in what Douro Valley producers consider the finest years—and expensive; prices for Vintage Port can hover around $100 upon release, often much higher, and climb quickly after that. Add to that the years, often decades, of aging required before a Vintage Port reaches optimal drinkability, and it’s clear that the category presents more than a few barriers to entry. Enter Late-Bottled Vintage Port (LBV): A category created in the 1970s (Taylor Fladgate takes the credit) as a way for Port houses to utilize grapes that were rejected for Vintage Port but were too high in quality to be declassified into lesser Port bottlings. It turned out to be a commercially successful strategy for producers and a big win for wine lovers seeking…

“Man, it feels good to be here,” said California winemaker Mark Aubert, speaking from the stage at the 2021 New York Wine Experience. “If I had to do another Zoom tasting … .” The hundreds of vintners and wine lovers in the room heartily agreed. After 18 months of pandemic-induced complications and uncertainty, the Wine Experience returned to the Marriott Marquis in Times Square for a weekend of outstanding wines, education, entertainment and friendship. Attendees also raised their glasses to the Wine Experience itself, celebrating its 40th Anniversary and taking stock of the dramatic changes the event has weathered, including recessions, the aftermath of the 9/11 terrorist attacks and now the coronavirus pandemic. Pulling it off this year wasn’t as easy as popping the corks on the 12,121 bottles of…

Will Harlan grew up hearing about his father’s “200-year plan” for the family business, though he jokes that it was a difficult concept to wrap his head around as a 5-year-old. As the pair addressed the Wine Experience audience, Harlan Estate founder and Meadowood resort proprietor Bill Harlan summarized the plan as “a story of place, of people and culture.” “The dream was to produce wines that one day might be welcomed at the table of the fine wines of the world,” recalled Bill, who founded Harlan Estate in 1984 and was Wine Spectator’s 2015 Distinguished Service Award winner. “We’ve been able to create an amazing culture.” In the spring of 2020, Bill announced that he was stepping away from the wine business and appointing Will as managing director for…

Chuck Wagner was 19 years old when his parents, longtime grapegrowers, sat him down for a talk. “My dad said, ‘Chuck, your mother and I would like to start a winery, if you’ll join us. And if you don’t, we’re going to sell the property and move to Australia.’” Thus began the legacy of Caymus Vineyards, an icon among Napa Cabernets. As Wagner presented his Caymus Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley 40th Anniversary 2012, he reminisced that their first vintage, 1972, sold for $4.50 a bottle. “When we started our business … the wine and food culture had yet to arrive.” Senior editor James Molesworth told the audience how Napa pioneers such as Wagner and his family set the stage for the region’s success. While new players and big acquisitions steal…

The winegrowing styles of California Cabernet Sauvignon were on full display in a seminar featuring four standouts from Napa Valley. Moderated by senior editor James Molesworth, the tasting explored how grapes are grown, how wine is made and factors that enrich the final product. Wine Experience regular and 2011 Distinguished Service Award recipient Christian Moueix, who oversees prestigious Bordeaux estates and owns Napa’s Dominus, presented his Ulysses Napa Valley 2015. The Ulysses project began in 2008 when Moueix bought acres just north of Dominus; the wine debuted with the 2012 vintage. Compared to Dominus, Moueix said the Ulysses site “is a little warmer, and the wines are higher in acidity and tannins.” Since joining the Napa Valley grapegrowing industry in 1981, Moueix’s main objective has been to cultivate vineyards without…

Wine, finance and hockey mogul Bill Foley is buying another Sonoma landmark. His company, Foley Family Wines, has acquired Chateau St. Jean from Aussie wine giant Treasury Wine Estates. The deal includes St. Jean’s chateau in Kenwood, Calif., as well as a 6,000-square-foot visitors center and a 39,000-square-foot production facility. The deal also includes St. Jean’s 79 acres of estate vineyards. Financial terms were not disclosed. Last year, according to Impact Databank, the winery made 329,000 cases. “Chateau St. Jean is a Sonoma County icon, with almost 50 years of history in Sonoma Valley,” said Gerard Thoukis, CMO of Foley Family Wines. “The future strategy of this brand will aid Foley Family Wines in our desire to become the No. 1 luxury wine producer in the U.S.” The winery has…

In the realm of fortified wines, Port enjoys a well-deserved reputation as the cheese-friendliest of the lot. Possessed of all the sweetness and fruit to stand up to the most powerful cheeses, it also has the structure, tannins and viscosity to complement any dense, fudgy or hard consistencies. Stilton and Cheddar are the tried-and-true partners for Port; Parmigiano-Reggiano represents another match, less traditional but equally successful. All three are national icons in their respective countries of origin, renowned for their bold, persistent, well-balanced and wonderfully integrated flavor profiles, willing and able to embrace such a substantial wine. The British love affair with Port dates back three centuries, and Stilton in its contemporary form—strong and blue yet elegant and restrained—began its ascendance not long after. Replete with nostalgia, a fixture of…

Who doesn’t like white Burgundy? Americans love Chardonnay; it’s the most-popular varietal sold in the United States, and Burgundy is Chardonnay’s crowning achievement. Although the locals in the Côte de Beaune, where Chardonnay reigns supreme, think of it as Meursault, Puligny or Chassagne-Montrachet, this is where Chardonnay reaches its peak in quality. The famed grands crus are priced beyond the grasp of most wine lovers, but there remain options, some more widely available than others. A good starting point for affordable, authentic white Burgundy is the regional appellation Bourgogne Blanc. There is a lot of Bourgogne Blanc out there, so be sure to grab bottles from reputable producers. Bourgogne, whether white or red, is the calling card and serves as an introduction to good merchant houses such as Maison Louis…

Situated at the toe of Italy’s boot, Sicily is the country’s largest island. As a wine region, it’s dynamic and exciting—a lot of study, experimentation and growth at the end of the 20th century was a springboard for today’s producers, who have really honed their craft. Sicily’s wine production is thriving, with wineries bottling everything from sparkling and white wines to rosés, reds and dessert versions, using a wide range of grape varieties in the process. I’ve written about the wines of Sicily for Wine Spectator for nearly a decade, but my coverage goes well beyond professional curiosity. I regularly order the island’s offerings in restaurants and purchase them for enjoyment at home. Many of the wines are made from grape varieties that are scarcely grown elsewhere in the world,…

California’s coastal counties south of San Francisco offer a fertile hunting ground for Chardonnays that compete well with their North Coast counterparts, in most cases at a fraction of the price. The vast majority of vineyards here are spread over four counties. From north to south, these are San Benito, Monterey, San Luis Obispo and Santa Barbara. They are collectively part of what’s called the Central Coast, where Chardonnay accounts for about half of vineyard plantings. The to-pography is defined by mountain ranges, broad valleys and rolling landscapes that funnel in cool Pacific air, which helps make quality grapegrowing possible in the hot California sun. Indeed, many large wine companies based in the Golden State draw grapes from these areas for multi-county blends. In San Benito County, the smallest of…

Chile features almost ideal growing conditions for a range of grapes, but Cabernet Sauvignon and blends thereof lead the pack in prestige and quality. Beginning in the 19th century, Chilean vintners began importing grapes and technical know-how from Bordeaux, the traditional home of Cabernet, which only accelerated when the voracious root louse phylloxera began to ravage French vineyards (for a variety of reasons, phylloxera does not thrive in Chile). Even today, there is a strong French connection to Chile, as leading Bordeaux châteaus have joint ventures and/or standalone wineries in the nation. Overall, the style of Chilean Cabernet mixes the power and structure common to French wines with the concentrated fruit flavors that are the hallmarks of the New World. The soils in Chile’s best districts promote deep and healthy…

Jon Bon Jovi and son Jesse Bongiovi made a return visit to the Wine Experience to pour their Hampton Water Languedoc Rosé 2020 and also talk about their efforts to remedy hunger and homelessness. The singer-songwriter half-jokingly calls himself “an employee” of his son, who is the driving force behind Hampton Water along with his friend Ali Thomas. The wine’s name comes from Bongiovi’s quip that rosé is the “water” of the Hamptons, where the family has a home. With Gérard Bertrand, a trailblazing winemaker in France’s Languedoc, they have produced four vintages of Hampton Water; all have received outstanding ratings. The 2020 blend is 60% Grenache, with near-equal parts of Cinsault, Mourvèdre and Syrah; about 20% was aged in new French oak. “As soon as we met, we were…

Cristie Kerr began golfing as a child, and her passion for the sport grew into a long and distinguished career as a professional. But, as she explained to the Wine Experience crowd, golf wouldn’t remain her only passion. “I was bitten by another bug, called the wine bug,” said Kerr. “Lightning had struck twice.” As golf took her around the world, Kerr explored wine regions near and far, but California’s Napa Valley called to her. “Every time I went, it felt like I was coming home,” she said. Wearing a bright pink suit in honor of breast cancer awareness, Kerr talked about meeting Pride Mountain Vineyards’ Suzanne Pride Bryan in 2008 and launching Curvature Wines to benefit breast cancer research, and how she and her husband, Erik Stevens, were stunned…

Trudie Styler and her musician husband, Sting, purchased their Tuscan estate Il Palagio in 1997, but their love affair with Italy began well before that. Addressing the crowd in their second New York Wine Experience appearance, Styler shared stories of the couple’s romantic visits to Italy, starting with their first trip together in 1984. They’d long wanted a home in Italy, spending years looking for the right house before discovering Il Palagio, about 20 miles south of Florence. “We felt like somehow we’d come home,” said Styler. With no winemaking experience but a deep appreciation and respect for the land, Styler and Sting replanted their neglected vineyards to a mix of Italian and French grapes, namely Sangiovese, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. They started producing wines with the 2007 vintage and…

The annual Chefs’ Challenge is a lively seminar in which four culinary leaders each create a dish that’s then paired with two wines: one chosen by a fellow panelist and one selected by Wine Spectator’s Thomas Matthews. A show of hands by the audience determines which is the better match. Matthews revealed his pairing strategy this year: “The wines I chose represent people and regions that mean a lot to me personally.” Then it was time to dig in. First on the docket was Eric Ripert’s dish: Hiramasa crudo with grated yuzu, lemon and olive oil. Matthews selected a rich, juicy white from Bodegas Pazo de Barrantes, the Albariño Rías Baixas La Comtesse 2017, as an ode to the family behind the winery and because he thinks “Albariño from Rías…