Indholdsfortegnelse for August 31, 2022 i Wine Spectator

Here’s to the Little Guys I think that when travelers go to Napa, Sonoma and Mendocino, they’re looking for a wine experience to take home with them. That makes it hard for the smaller wineries to draw them in. Gas prices, fertilizers, employee [salaries], etc., have all increased, making it hard on the boutique places. Not to mention rules and regulations that have to be kept up with. So cheers to the small family-owned wineries scraping by to make it in a corporate world by doing what they love. Jackie CorrieLa Center, Wash. Phinney Feedback I thoroughly enjoyed the article delving into the many facets of Dave Phinney’s businesses (cover, June 15 & 30). He envisioned some innovative opportunities, pursued them, and his creative endeavors were rewarded. Ken WestbrookSan Diego…

People enjoy sharing images of the things they love, and for many of us that includes wine. “Whether at home or in a restaurant, it’s a way of documenting your life and sharing the joy of life—and maybe a little bit of bragging,” quips Evi Abeler, a commercial photographer specializing in food and beverage. When capturing a photo of a remarkable wine, the image should do justice to the subject. “A better photo requires just a little more time. Take out your camera and don’t just click. Take three seconds to see, and in that tiny moment it will improve your result,” says Abeler. Here, she shares some pro tips for more picture-perfect wine images. Run a Background Check Take a moment to look beyond your subject and remove distracting…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 94 SOTER Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Estates 2019 $54 OREGON A wine with dimension and grace, this Pinot has tiers of raspberry, mineral and dusky spice that build expression and tension toward refined tannins. COLLECTIBLE 95 BOSCARELLI Vino Nobile di Montepulciano Riserva 2016 $62 ITALY An intriguing note of orange peel joins black cherry, blackberry, wild rosemary and iron flavors in this sleek, firmly structured red, with drive and energy from the vibrant acidity. SMART BUY 90 LES VIGNERONS DE TAVEL Tavel Les 4 Vents 2021 $19 FRANCE Ripe, even vivid, in the display of cherry, pomegranate and blood orange flavors, this distinctive rose has the cut and tension to match, ending with a mouthwatering edge. BEST VALUE 87 CODORNÍU Brut Cava Limited Edition Reserva NV $13 SPAIN…

Since its opening in 2007, Napa Valley’s Press delivered a classic steakhouse experience and built an extensive Napa Valley-only wine list heavy on Cabernet Sauvignon. The formula for success was simple, and Press became beloved by locals and visitors alike. But in mid-2018, owner Leslie Rudd died. And by then, the wine list was showing signs of attrition as diners plundered the cellar of its older and hard-to-replace vintages. Rudd’s daughter, Samantha, who had no formal role in the restaurant previously, was thrust into the owner’s role. “It surprised me what a tough business a restaurant is,” says Rudd. “Curtains are open every night. If you fumble, everyone sees it.” Among her first moves was to hire chef Philip Tessier as a consultant in June 2019. Tessier is no stranger…

California Zinfandel is rarely more fun to drink than what the 2019 vintage delivers. Pleasure, let’s face it, is part of Zin’s appeal. This is not a wine that requires navel-gazing. Having reviewed Zin for Wine Spectator for 16 years, I see 2019 as that rare vintage that achieves harmony and balance. The 2019s can’t be defined with the standard buzzwords. They’re fruit-forward but not fruit bombs. They’re ripe but not overwhelmed by alcohol. They’re briary but not rustic. The best versions have a complexity that’s easy to overlook because they’re so easy to drink. That’s my takeaway after reviewing more than 200 Zinfandels in blind tastings at our Napa office since my previous report (“On the Bright Side,” June 30, 2021), the majority of them from 2019. More than…

Climate extremes threw many curve balls at Provencal growers in 2021. Devastating spring frosts were followed by a very dry, hot summer and fires near Saint-Tropez in August. Then there was rain during the early days of harvest. As a result, the region saw uneven ripening and variability in quality. Yet many terrific roses were made, especially from benchmark estates. In general, the vintage shows inviting aromatics, great freshness and good balance, though perhaps not the concentration of other years. WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search. PRO TIP: Despite the obsession with drinking the current vintage, well-made roses can age beautifully—particularly those from the Bandol appellation—so don’t be afraid to buy 2020 roses from top producers…

ARGENTINA Malbec & Blends 93 Bodega Piedra Negra Chacayes Los Chacayes 2018 $120 This deeply hued red offers a deep well of aromas, showing intense floral, cassis, anise and mace notes amid ripe blueberry, blackberry and kirsch flavors that swell midpalate. Features fresh, chalky acidity, ending with firm tannins and details of white pepper and cocoa powder. Malbec and Côt. Drink now through 2032. 600 cases made, 112 cases imported.—M.W. 92 Alta Vista Alto Mendoza 2018 $90 A striking red that melds layers of brambly raspberry, mission fig and guava against savory elements of peppercorn, olive and bay leaf. This has room to grow, as the finish features tannic grip but also length and a note of chocolate-laced raspberry. Malbec and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2032. 1,000 cases made,…

Wine Spectator’s Restaurant Awards program has been going strong for more than 40 years. These awards not only guide our readers to dining establishments with impressive wine lists and outstanding service, but also serve to honor restaurants for their achievements and commitment to maintaining pristine cellars. Few restaurateurs or chefs embody this spirit more than our cover subject, Charlie Palmer. His passion for wine and deep involvement in all aspects of operations at his venues is apparent across his restaurant group, including five Wine Spectator Restaurant Award winners among them. The crown jewel is Grand Award-winning Aureole in Las Vegas, which features a four-story wine tower and 2,700-count list with deep collections from the world’s most important wine regions. Dry Creek Kitchen in Healdsburg, Calf., and Charlie Palmer Steak locations…

Join a series of Instagram conversations between Wine Spectator editors and respected leaders in the worlds of wine and hospitality, spanning current events, business news and personal thoughts. Now In Our IGTV Archives JUNE 8 Dave Phinney, winemaker, Orin Swift Cellars JUNE 1 The Chicks, music band and founders of Gaslighter Wine Co. MAY 18 Gianluca Bisol, president, Bisol Winery MAY 11 Ikimi Dubose-Woodson, co-founder, The Roots Fund MAY 4 Drew Bledsoe, founder and owner, Bledsoe Wine Estates APRIL 27 Samantha Rudd, owner, Rudd Estate APRIL 20 Giovanni Mazzei, export director, Castello di Fonterutoli APRIL 13 Rebekah Wineburg, winemaker, Quintessa APRIL 6 Morgan Twain-Peterson, owner and winemaker, Bedrock Wine Co. MARCH 30 Ludovic du Plessis, president, Champagne Telmont WATCH ON INSTAGRAM Scan the QR code to start watching on our…

A new study suggests that moderate wine consumption is linked with a lower risk of developing dementia; researchers at Germany’s University of Giessen and University of Leipzig recently took a look at coffee, tea and wine, and found similar brain benefits for wine and tea. The study, led by Ph.D. Sylva Mareike Schaefer and published in Brain Sciences, collected data from more than 350,000 participants in the U.K. Biobank cohort. The researchers identified 4,270 dementia cases within the group surveyed. Participants answered questionnaires on dietary habits. Red wine, white wine and Champagne were grouped together under “wine,” while beer, spirits and fortified wine were labeled “non-wine.” A portion of wine was defined as 10 grams of alcohol. Daily wine consumption was grouped into four categories: none; light (less than or…

During my 29 years with Wine Spectator, I have inspected eight Grand Award–winning restaurants, including two re-inspections to ensure that the winners were upholding impeccable standards. Four of those restaurants were in Canada (two in Toronto and two outside Montréal), one was Au Crocodile in Strasbourg, France, one in New Jersey and two in New York City. Of the eight, the original Bistro à Champlain has since closed its doors, in 2014. Our criteria are rigorous. The inspection consists of two parts: a dinner, preferably anonymous, to evaluate the cuisine, service, ambience and other factors that contribute to the overall experience; and a cellar inspection to guarantee the wine program can deliver the wines represented on its list. In each case, for the dinner evaluation, I invited wine-savvy friends to…

1979 Graduates Culinary Institute of America, Hyde Park, N.Y. 1980 La Côte Basque, Manhattan; first job as chef 1983 River Café, Brooklyn, N.Y., hired as executive chef 1988 Aureole in Manhattan opens 1999 A second Aureole and Charlie Palmer Steak open in Las Vegas 2001 Hotel Healdsburg and Dry Creek Kitchen open in Healdsburg, Calif. 2003 Charlie Palmer Steak debuts in Washington, D.C. 2007 Charlie Palmer Steak opens in Reno, Nev. 2009 Original Aureole moves to One Bryant Park, N.Y. 2015 Knickerbocker Hotel opens with Palmer as a partner, overseeing food and beverage 2017 Charlie Palmer Steak debuts in Napa, Calif. 2019 Willow by Charlie Palmer opens at Mirbeau Inn, Rhinebeck, N.Y. 2021 Charlie Palmer Steak replaces Aureole at One Bryant Park, N.Y. 2022 Healdsburg Vineyard Hotel breaks ground…

ABOUT THE AWARD LEVELS To qualify for an award, a wine list must present complete, accurate information, including vintages and appellations for all selections. Complete producer names and correct spellings are mandatory, and the overall presentation of the list is also considered. Lists that meet these requirements are judged for one of our three awards. AWARD OF EXCELLENCE 1,782 winners These wine lists, which typically offer at least 90 selections, feature a well-chosen assortment of quality producers along with a thematic match to the menu in both price and style. Whether compact or extensive, focused or diverse, these lists deliver sufficient choice to satisfy discerning wine lovers. BEST OF AWARD OF EXCELLENCE 1,290 winners These wine lists display excellent breadth across multiple winegrowing regions and/or significant vertical depth of top…

With its rapid rise in popularity over the past decade, rosé occupies the contradictory position of being embraced as the luxury pour of summer, while not being taken seriously as a wine. The deluge of lackluster bottles turned out to meet consumers’ feverish demand has not helped its reputation. “Rosé has become like Beaujolais Nouveau years ago—producers rush it to market quickly and everyone focuses on simple aromatics instead of substance,” says winemaker Daniel Ravier of Domaine Tempier in Provence’s elite Bandol appellation. “Many people still think rosé is not a real wine.” Yet across rosé’s spiritual homeland of Provence, ambitious vintners such as Ravier craft wines that challenge this perception. They are making complex, distinctive versions that channel their terroirs and make the case for rosé as something more…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 95 Carlisle Zinfandel Sonoma Valley Rossi Ranch 2019 $50 CALIFORNIA Vibrant and expressive, with compelling cherry and raspberry flavors laced with spice, cinnamon and orange zest. Builds richness and texture toward refined, briary tannins. Drink now through 2030. 404 cases made.—T.F. 95 Porseleinberg Swartland 2019 $95 SOUTH AFRICA This harmonious red draws you into the glass with a gorgeous nose of garrigue, lilac, leather and spice, serving as a fragrant overtone for the rich weave of black plum, green olive, milled pepper, smoky iron and singed citrus peel flavors. Delivers a solid core of fine tannins deftly knit to a fresh profile, which expands on the…

More than 350 wines were reviewed for this report. A free alphabetical list is available at WineSpectator.com/WashingtonAlpha101521. WineSpectator.com members can access complete reviews for all wines tasted using the online Wine Ratings search. VINTAGE CHART Rating Washington Merlot, Cabernet and Syrah Vintages 2019 89–92 Ideal growing season produced lovely and floral whites, but after an early October frost, reds will be inconsistent NYR 2018 93 Cool autumn weather salvaged an otherwise hot year, making for full-bodied yet well-balanced wines Drink or hold 2017 90 A cool, wet spring led to a hot summer, but moderate weather near harvest helped build expression Drink or hold 2016 91 A warm spring gave way to a moderate summer, promising balanced but structured wines Drink or hold 2015 91 Hot, sunny growing season yielded…

Wine Spectator’s Grand Award, founded in 1981, recognizes outstanding restaurants with extraordinary wine programs. We honor 97 restaurants with our Grand Award this year; listed here, they represent 16 countries and 14 states plus the District of Columbia. For more information about these distinguished restaurants, turn to the Restaurant Awards listings beginning on page 75; comprehensive coverage is also available at WineSpectator.com/Restaurants. UNITED STATES CALIFORNIA Acquerello Grand Award since 2012 Restaurant Gary Danko Grand Award since 2001 Saison Grand Award since 2014 Spruce Grand Award since 2015 The French Laundry Grand Award since 2007 La Toque Grand Award since 2014 Murray Circle Restaurant Grand Award since 2016 The Plumed Horse Grand Award since 2015 Press Restaurant Grand Award since 2022 Restaurant 301 at the Hotel Carter Grand Award since 1998…

“There are some interesting similarities between wine and crypto,” explains David Garrett of Club dVin. “They are both really intimidating to outsiders.” Garrett should know. As cofounder of Club dVin, he’s among the pioneers bridging the gap between these two worlds. Club dVin’s NFTs (non-fungible tokens) will be called “Tasting Tokens,” a type of what they consider a “loyalty currency” that can be viewed as a visual digital gallery on Instagram. The NFTs can allow wineries to know when their wines are consumed and are connected to “digital corks” that promise to offer curated experiences. Garrett says those interested in Club d’Vin tend to be “wine native, crypto curious.” But, he adds, “there’s also a group that’s crypto native and wine curious.” Club d’Vin is just one of more than…

The most impressive auction of Chateau Haut-Brion wines to date has its roots in two parents trying to care for their son. In 2016, first-growth estate owner Prince Robert de Luxembourg and his wife, Princess Julie, were devastated to find that their youngest son, Frederik, was gravely ill with a mysterious disease. Frederik was eventually diagnosed with a mitochondrial disease, a genetic disorder that robs the body’s cells of energy, in turn causing the dysfunction and failure of multiple organs. His particular illness is due to a mutation in the PolG gene, but multiple mitochondrial diseases have now been discovered, believed to afflict one in every 5,000 people. Working to find effective treatments for their own child, Robert and Julie are also focusing on helping other families. Last year they…

In California, there’s a lot of good grass. This is great news when it comes to fine artisan and farmstead cheeses. Clearly expressing the region’s sunny terroir and well-tended, grass-fed herds, the finest cheeses from the Golden State are a lively, variegated bunch. If there’s a flavor leitmotif running through them, it’s a lip-smacking grassy tang that’s positively addictive. California’s cheeses are distinctly innovative, while remaining grounded in Old World tradition. Quite a few are outstanding American originals that reference their European forebears, but are by no means carbon copies. Largely responsible for these gems are a handful of families descended from Swiss-Italian immigrants: Fiscalini, Lafranchi (Nicasio Valley), Giacomini (Point Reyes Farmstead) and Vella should ring a bell. Here are some favorites from top California producers: David Gibbons is co-author…

Domestic Bliss There’s nothing like finding good value from local producers, and these wines from across the U.S. hit the sweet spot. All of them are representative varietals from their regions. EVENING LAND Chardonnay Eola-Amity Hills Seven Springs 2019 (93, $35) Rich, structured, savory; apple, apricot, spice, mineral MIRAFLORES Zinfandel El Dorado Yellow Block 2019 (93, $34) Blackberry, licorice, white pepper; dense, open-knit RAVINES Riesling Finger Lakes Dry Argetsinger Vineyard 2019 (93, $33) Crunchy, piercing; Meyer lemon, mirabelle plum, meringue, verbena, acacia BUEHLER Zinfandel Napa Valley 2019 (92, $30) Cherry, pepper, grilled herbs; polished, lively BJÖRNSON Pinot Noir Willamette Valley 2019 (91, $29) Lithe, vibrant; raspberry, orange peel, dusky spice HIGHLANDS 41 Pinot Noir Monterey County 2020 (88, $15) Mulled cherry, raspberry, wood spice, dark tea; plump, direct Cape Quaffs…

Far from the Mondavi family’s Napa Cabernet roots, Carlo Mondavi (along with his brother Dante) is forging his own path with Sonoma Coast Pinot Noir. When Carlo started making Pinot Noir from the far reaches of Sonoma Coast in 2013, it probably raised a few eyebrows. The grandson of Robert and the son of Tim was more than steeped in the trappings of Napa Valley Cabernet, and he already had a role at his family’s Continuum. But the allure of Pinot Noir proved too much. When he debuted the 2013s from his Raen project, most consumers probably had no idea it was the result of a decade-long search as well as the continuation of his family’s dreams. “I fell in love with Pinot from my grandfather and dad. My dad…

Wine Spectator: How did you first get into wine? Charlie Palmer: My true love of wine originated in Burgundy when I was younger. I was just fascinated. The original wine list at Aureole was very heavy with Burgundy, both white and red. Leflaive is an all-time favorite producer of mine, I drink as much Sauzet as I can afford, and I had an amazing Dujac the other night. WS: What is it about Burgundy that appeals to you? CP: I like the whole idea of Burgundy and the complexity of it. How five different wines can be made from the same small vineyard or how a single clos can be divided into seven or 10 different owners. That has always fascinated me and I’m still learning about Burgundy. WS: You…

Gabriel Kreuther loves wine. In a recent conversation, the chef of his namesake Manhattan restaurant confided that as a teen in Alsace, France, he wasn’t very interested in wine until his uncle suggested he try a glass. It was a grand cru red Burgundy from the excellent 1959 vintage, and that taste convinced him that wine was special, complex, improved with age and, most importantly, something to enjoy with food and friends. He has been buying and sharing wine with friends and customers ever since. That passion informs the wine program at Gabriel Kreuther. Drawing on a cellar of more than 2,200 selections and an inventory of 9,000-plus bottles, chef Kreuther, wine director Aukai Bell and the team are constantly thinking of creative ways to surprise and inspire guests. “Whenever…

WINE SPECTATOR’S 2023 RESTAURANT AWARDS PROGRAM will accept new entries and renewals from January 10 to March 10, 2023. To enter, restaurants must submit a copy of their current wine list and dinner menu, plus a cover letter that describes their wine program. The letter must include the restaurant’s phone number and email address, and must be in English. A nonrefundable processing fee, payable by either check or credit card, is also required. Additional information and general applications are available at WineSpectator.com/Restaurants. FIRST-TIME ENTRANTS: All first-time entrants can go to WineSpectator.com/Restaurants to find more information by selecting “Enter the Awards.” They will need to fill out the online new applicant form and submit the materials listed above: a current wine list, dinner menu, entry fee and cover letter. RENEWALS: All…

Brad and Angelina may be Provence’s most famous investors, but the region has attracted scores of other well-heeled and well-known outsiders looking to make wine in the rosé capital of the world. George Lucas’ Skywalker Vineyards purchased Château Margüi in 2017. British businessman and self-made billionaire Mark Dixon has accumulated four wine estates in Provence, including Château de Berne. Famous luxury watchmaker Richard Mille bought Château Rêva in 2019, located between Cannes and Aix-en-Provence in Côtes de Provence. Also in 2019, the house of Chanel acquired Domaine de l’Ile on the island of Porquerolles, just off the coast of Provence. French businessman Stéphane Courbit teamed up with Bordeaux’s Prats family (former owner of Château Cos-d’Estournel) to purchase Château d’Estoublon in 2020. And George and Amal Clooney spent $7.5 million to…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below). Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany, Germany, Austria James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Spain, Italy, Champagne, Alsace, South Africa Tim Fish California Zinfandel and Merlot, Oregon, Washington, U.S. sparkling wines Aaron Romano Argentina, Chile How We Do the Tastings Wine Spectator…

Complex & Powerful in Washington State Chateau Ste. Michelle Artist Series Red Blend Columbia Valley Made from select fruit grown in a mix of warm and cool sites, this classic Bordeaux blend shows lush ripeness balanced with freshness and structure. Columbia Crest Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon Heart of the Hill Vineyard Red Mountain This limited-production Cabernet gets its concentrated palate of violets, black currant and black cherry from a mix of aging concrete, oak barrels and small stainless steel tanks. DeLille Cellars Four Flags Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain Dense notes of blue-black fruit offer a nice balance to the savory notes in this delicately textured red. Fine, dusty tannins laced with spice and umami flavors lend this wine great aging potential. Force Majeure Cabernet Sauvignon Red Mountain This 100% Cabernet opens…