Indholdsfortegnelse for December 15, 2022 i Wine Spectator

FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS TOP 100 WINES OF THE YEAR On Monday Nov. 7, we begin unveiling the Top 10 Wines of 2022—complete with videos, tasting notes and more—culminating with the Wine of the Year on Nov. 11 and the complete Top 100 list on Nov. 14. Don’t miss the year’s most exciting wines! WHAT AM I TASTING? Test your tasting skills in our mystery wine game. Every two weeks, we post a tasting note with clues from the color, aromas, flavors and structure. Then, you guess the variety, region, appellation and age of the wine. THE WINE WORLD, UNFILTERED Love wine and spirits? Into pop culture? Get the scoop on how drinks intersect with movies, TV, music, sports, politics and more in our regular column and its companion email newsletter.…

ETO WINE PRESERVER Know someone who prefers to serve wines decanted, needs to preserve unfinished bottles, or just likes to have their guests taste blind? This is a perfect gift. It looks beautiful on the tabletop, sparks curiosity among guests about what they are drinking, and at the end of the night if there is still some wine left, all you have to do is push the neck down and place the vessel in the fridge. ($195; usa.etowine.com) CHAPPAQUIDDICK WOOD COMPANY CHILMARK CHERRY BOWL, 12-INCH A good wooden bowl is a must-have. These, made from wood sourced in Martha’s Vineyard, are of impeccable quality. Each bowl starts from whole trees that undergo a long process of milling, roughing, drying and finishing. All the work is done by one guy, Zach…

SHARED NOTES COFFEE PLAN Bibiana González Rave is one of my favorite winemakers in California—her exuberant spirit shows in all of her wines. Perhaps related, the Columbia-born vintner is also a coffee enthusiast who drinks several cups a day. It’s a natural extension for Rave to start importing Columbian coffee beans from high-altitude, small farms and roast them herself. The coffee in this subscription is so smooth and complex, even latte lovers will like it black. (Plans start at $17 every 2 weeks; sharednoteswine.com) REAL GOOD FISH I credit my colleague Aaron Romano for discovering Real Good Fish after we’d watched a documentary on the fishing industry, which left us troubled about how to enjoy seafood responsibly. This company ships sustainably sourced, wild-caught, seasonal seafood to your favorite pescatarians (or…

Australia’s Arsenal Australian Shiraz certainly gets its due, but as this selection shows, there’s plenty more on offer from Down Under. Relying on a Grenache-based blend, Torbreck’s Juveniles is like an Aussie take on Châteauneuf-du-Pape, while the Ben Haines red features a blend of Pinot Noir, Cabernet and Syrah. MONTERRA Shiraz-Tempranillo McLaren Vale Élevage Series 2020 (94, $35) Expressive, elegant; chocolate-covered maraschino cherry, toasted cumin, nutmeg, vanilla bean, cigar box SEPPELTSFIELD Shiraz Barossa 2019 (92, $22) Black cherry, spiced plum, star anise, fennel, palo santo, black tea, toasted herbs; fleshy, spicy TORBRECK Cuvée Juveniles Barossa Valley 2020 (92, $28) Creamy, harmonious; raspberry, cherry, kirsch, cinnamon, violet, green tea, date nut bread, salted butterscotch BEN HAINES Red Victoria 2021 (91, $25) Wild strawberry, rhubarb, cranberry, white pepper, green tea, earth; fresh, transparent…

When John Shafer decided to quit his job as a book publisher, move his family 2,100 miles across the country and start a winery in the 1970s, he probably didn’t imagine that Shafer Vineyards would go on to attract thousands of loyal customers, help put Napa Valley wine on the global map and one day be the source of a Wine pectator Wine of the Year. Nor that five decades later, his winery would be sold to a Korean corporation for $250 million. Not too bad a run. I was on assignment in Sonoma this past February when I learned that Shinsegae Property, a luxury retail and real-estate firm, had purchased Shafer Vineyards. According to a Korean news report, the price tag was $250 million. Jaw-dropping, but perhaps not surprising…

MAREA 15 240 Central Park S., New York Marea’s beverage director, Francesco Grosso, immediately mentions the menu’s worth of seafood dishes from executive chef Lauren DeSteno when considering matching with Champagne, listing fresh oysters, langoustine crudo and prawn tartare, among others. But he quickly goes to caviar as the ultimate pairing. Marea offers four different types with full service and all the accompaniments. And for those not quite ready for the splurge, he recommends snagging a seat at the bar to order one of three Champagnes by the glass to enjoy with an off-menu bar bite, a caviar slider. “We only serve 20 per night at this point. It’s a house-baked potato bun, American sturgeon caviar, tuna tartare and panna acida (crème fraîche). I can’t tell you how delicious this…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 97 Moët & Chandon Brut Champagne Dom Pérignon Plénitude P2 2004 $480 FRANCE Mandarin orange, ripe cherry, raspberry and apricot fruit notes offer an exuberant burst of flavor at the entry point of this otherwise refined and subtle Champagne. The expressive fruit is joined on the lacy mousse by hints of toast, pastry cream and Earl Grey tea leaf, with an underpinning of minerally chalk and smoke. Lithe and graceful on the palate, but with a dancer’s sense of restrained power. Drink now through 2037.—A.N. 96 Giant Steps Pinot Noir Yarra Valley Apple-Vineyard 2021 $70 AUSTRALIA Oozing jack with spices and perfume, this stunning red shows polish, featuring…

Champagne fans would argue that well-crafted bubbly is a work of art—but Pommery Champagne doesn’t stop there. The historic house has been on a mission to support the visual and performing arts, in homage to famed proprietor Madame Louise Pommery (1819–1890) and her belief in promoting top artists. Madame Pommery commissioned the monumental brass sculptures by Gustave Navlet featured in her wine cellars and the largest-ever sculpted cask, created by Émile Gallé. She also donated Jean-François Millet’s The Gleaners to the Louvre; it is currently on display at the Musée d’Orsay in Paris. Her Champagne house continues to show its appreciation for the art world by sponsoring renowned art events, such as the Armory Show, the Red Dot Art Fair and Art Basel. In July, Pommery co-sponsored the Hamptons Fine…

In this issue, senior editor Alison Napjus shines a light on why Champagne is the perfect wine not just for celebrations but for so many other dining occasions. Soaring sales in the United States are a testament to Champagne’s growing popularity. In 2021, exports to the U.S. jumped 33% from pre-COVID figures, securing America’s place as the No. 1 export market. It’s a trend that we also see evidenced at Wine Spectator’s tasting events, where Champagne producers pour nonstop throughout the night. With Champagne top of mind for the holidays, we have created a guide to explore its many facets. Whether you reside in New York, Palm Beach, Kansas City or beyond, there are many bars and restaurants that go to great lengths to offer a special focus on Champagne,…

MURRAY’S THE BETTER THAN CAKE CHEESE TOWER This unique alternative to the traditional cheese platter presentation makes a stunning party centerpiece, and it’s also an ideal gift for those who love to entertain. There are smaller options, but I like the Better Than Cake Tower, which was created after popular demand from betrothed couples who wanted cheese in place of cake at their weddings. This 4.5-pound megatower is built with four diverse cheeses ranging in origin, style, texture and color, from the pimentón-coated Alisios from the Canary Islands to the maple leaf-wrapped smoked chèvre from Oregon’s Rivers Edge. ($165; murrayscheese.com) SUR LA TABLE 3-PIECE CHEESE KNIFE SET Cute and compact, this set made by Sur La Table is carved from olive wood. As a plus, the pieces come in an olive…

WATERFORD MIXOLOGY CIRCON COCKTAIL SHAKER This sophisticated version combines the see-what-you’re-shaking theatricality of a glass Boston shaker with a classic strainer-shaker’s ease of use. The crystal has a pleasing weight, and it doesn’t get icy like a metal shaker, so it’s easy on the hands. Though Waterford says it’s designed for rum cocktails, I’ve never known a shaker to discriminate. A nifty silicone lining makes for a fool-proof seal, and it’s big enough to shake a party-pleasing batch of drinks at once. ($225; waterford.com) LIBER & CO. COCKTAIL SYRUPS: THE CLASSICS COLLECTION I discovered gum syrup in Peru, where it’s known as jarabe de goma and is an essential component of the Pisco Sour. It’s a 2:1 simple syrup with the magical addition of gum arabic, which gives cocktails a…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 95 CALADAN Proprietary Red Napa Valley 2019 $225 CALIFORNIA An impressive red that’s stylish and handsomely structured, slowly unfurling notes of cherry and cassis accented by hints of espresso, toasty spices and flint as this promenades on the palate toward polished tannins. Merlot blend. COLLECTIBLE 97 ELVIO COGNO Barolo Ravera Vigna Elena Riserva 2016 $195 ITALY This is beginning to mellow now after six years, featuring plum, cherry, leather, tar, mineral and menthol flavors. Yet there are still firm, refined tannins, along with bright acidity underneath. SMART BUY 92 DEVIL’S CORNER Chardonnay Tasmania 2021 $20 AUSTRALIA This white is fresh and light, but not shy on intensity, with notes of toasted sesame seed, fresh grated ginger and salted melon adding complexity to the core of citrus and ripe…

PERSE 19 Time Warner Center, 10 Columbus Circle, 4th Floor, New York SIGNATURE DISH: Chef Thomas Keller’s Oysters and Pearls, a sabayon of pearl tapioca, Beausoleil oysters and white sturgeon caviar PAIRED WITH: Blanc de blancs, rosé or aged Champagne “Many wine lovers consider Champagne as an ultimate apéritif because it has acidity that fires up the palate and bubbly texture that is incredibly refreshing. … At Per Se, the chef’s tasting menu begins with Keller’s signature dish of Oysters and Pearls, which highlights oceanic flavors of caviar and oysters. … In addition to freshness, there is one more component that distinguishes Champagne from other types of sparkling wine: Stemming from the bedrock, which once was a bed of seashells, Champagne offers unique umami that makes it specifically ideal to…

OCEAN HOUSE 30 1 Bluff Ave., Watch Hill, R.I. Established in 1868, Ocean House is a grande dame among New England lodgings. It draws guests old and new with its luxury accommodations, beautiful grounds, dining, spa and resort activities. Guests wishing to learn more about Bollinger’s La Grande Année as well as other prestige cuvées ranging from Veuve Clicquot’s La Grande dame to Cristal to Armand de Brignac’s Ace of Spades, can join the resort’s private seminar “A Study of Champagne, Tête de Cuvées.” The class includes a tasting of five wines as well as an overview of the history and geography of the Champagne region and the production of its wines. An added bonus is a hands-on demonstration in the art of sabrage, removing the top of a Champagne…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below). Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany, Germany, Austria James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, Rhône Valley, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Spain, Italy, Champagne, Alsace, South Africa Tim Fish California Zinfandel and Merlot, Oregon, Washington, U.S. sparkling wines Aaron Rom France, Israel How We Do the Tastings Wine Spectator…

Rave Review It was on rare occasion since Wine Spectator’s annual video contest was instituted that I would take the time to watch the winning videos (Wine-Spectator.com/video). Until now. Steve Jacobson’s Cabernet Tonight deserves an Oscar from the Academy of Motion Picture Arts and Sciences for best production, best actor and best “all-around entertaining performance in a motion picture.” Mr. Jacobson’s video is worth watching over and over again. Gotta open a Cab now! Ed Galligan Vancouver, Wash. What’s Old Is New We’ve been traveling to Napa and Sonoma from the Midwest since the mid-1970s, but were unaware of El Molino (“Napa’s Ultimate Throwback,” Sept. 30). We recently moved to Portland, Ore., and on a recent trip to California wine country, I made an appointment to visit El Molino. [Co-owner]…

Longtime California vintner Fred Franzia, the co-founder of Bronco Wine Co. and widely known for his Charles Shaw brand (aka “Two-Buck Chuck”), died Sept. 13 at age 79. Franzia founded Bronco Wine Co. with his brother and cousin in 1973, shortly after his family sold their Franzia wine brand to the Coca-Cola Company. Over the years, Franzia developed a reputation for bold deal-making and acerbic remarks. He built Bronco into one of the largest wine producers in the U.S. with no-holds-barred business practices, closely watching grape price trends so he could seize value, which he passed along to customers. He liked nothing more than buying excess wine from top producers and blending it into his value-priced bottlings. Franzia’s brashness extended to his wine labeling practices as well. In 1993, he…

BAREBONES HARVESTING & GATHERING BAG Made from water-resistant waxed canvas, this bag is the perfect pouch to pack a few tools and cold beverages for an afternoon hike. With straps that can be worn on the chest, back or messenger style, it’s similar to those once used by vineyard and orchard workers. But with this bag, it’s not only about what you bring with you, it’s also about what you carry home. The removable waterproof liner makes it ideal for gathering mushrooms, apples, wildflowers, pine boughs and other outdoor treasures. ($80; barebonesliving.com) NEW WEST KNIFEWORKS BON VIVANT SET Few gourmet kitchen instruments are built to withstand the wild like these American-made stainless steel blades. The G10 handles, made from fiberglass and resin materials, are pleasantly light and nearly indestructible in the…

In California’s Sta. Rita Hills, winemakers Sashi Moorman and Raj Parr pushed the limits of where the Pinot Noir grape can succeed. And their risks have met rewards at their Domaine de la Côte. “When we got here in 2007, we planted 20 acres of vines and we had no neighbors. This part of the valley was considered too marginal for ripening,” explains Moorman. “Today, we’re surrounded by plantings owned by Joe Wagner, Stan Kroenke, Dave Phinney and Gallo.” Was the prevailing thought on the area wrong back when, or has climate change moved so quickly that the area is now no longer marginal? “I think ripeness had a different definition then,” says Moorman. “Twenty years ago, ripeness meant 25 degrees Brix, which you can’t get here—not then, or now.…

SAINT URBAN 13 124 Dell St., Syracuse, N.Y. Owner Jared Stafford-Hill is both chef and wine director at Syracuse’s Saint Urban, and so great is his belief in the pairing possibilities for Champagne that the entire month of February is dedicated to offering multiple tasting menus designed to partner Champagne. “He takes great care to consider all styles and create dishes to pair and highlight the cépage, dosage and the vintage,” says general manager Keri Levens. Highlights from the 2022 menu included a carpaccio of sea scallops with sea urchin, radish, jalapeño and vanilla matched with Tarlant Brut Nature Zero NV, and a chestnut-flour duck tortelli with foie gras and fennel agrodolce partnered with La Caravelle Brut Rosé NV. “They’re curated pairings to showcase the incredible gastronomic qualities of Champagne…

Most rum cocktails are served icy cold, whether on the rocks, straight up or frozen. The daiquiri, piña colada and dark ’n’ stormy all evoke tropical vacations and hot days when we seek a sweet cooler. But long before the days of ice machines and jet-setting to the Caribbean, rum was the spirit of colonial America, a savory, all-weather drink enjoyed warm or hot. Sugarcane-based alcohol has been around since the days of Marco Polo, but distilled rum made its greatest foothold in the 17th century, arising from the vast sugar plantation of the Caribbean islands, made possible by slave labor. Molasses, a byproduct of sugarcane refinement, was shipped to New England, where it was made into rum. The portable potable was then sent to Africa and traded for slaves.…

AUSTRALIA Cabernet Sauvignon & Blends 96 Penfolds Cabernet Sauvignon Coonawarra Bin 169 2019 $350 Stunning, this red opens dusty, with cocoa powderlike tannins, and the flavors just melt away from there into silky accents of fresh rosemary, cardamom, chocolate-covered maraschino cherry, salted caramel and wild blackberry. Reveals aromas of bakhoor incense, with a finish that’s exciting for its persistence. Drink now through 2035. 50 cases imported.—M.W. 94 Penfolds Cabernet-Shiraz South Australia Bin 389 2020 $80 Dense and succulent, with velvety tannins and a core of spiced plum and blackberry. The details and aromatics take this wine to the next level—reminiscent of dark chocolate and Black Forest cake, Kalamata olive, nutmeg and palo santo. Gains momentum on the long, expressive finish. Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz. Drink now through 2037. 14,605 cases imported.—M.W. 93…