Indholdsfortegnelse for February 28, 2023 i Wine Spectator

The overarching goal of Argentinian vintners over the past decade has been to transmit a sense of place in their wines, particularly when it comes to their flagship varietal, Malbec. In recent years, winemakers have gained confidence in their terroirs as well as their winemaking abilities, shifting toward fresher, less oaky styles that focus on the essence of the Malbec grape. The resulting wines are more vibrant, with excellent fruit concentration and smooth tannins. Who doesn’t like that? What’s more, producers are able to capture the essence of Malbec even when making broad regional blends, while subregional expressions further highlight the uniqueness of specific provinces. As a result, there are terrific examples at every price point. Although many of the top wines carry hefty price tags, more than 60% of…

Wine drinkers in search of delicious, well-priced red wines to enjoy with pizza or pour at parties have long turned to Côtes du Rhône. As quality has risen across this vast region of southern France in recent decades, these wines have easily earned their reputation for delivering maximum pleasure for minimum spend. Yet a little selectivity pays even greater dividends. By seeking out top estates—often anchored in more esteemed neighboring appellations such as Gigondas and Châteauneuf-du-Pape—you can find Côtes du Rhônes that offer standout quality. The Côtes du Rhône AOC is one of the largest single appellations in the world, encompassing areas throughout the Rhône Valley. Yet the overwhelming majority of wines hail from the warm, sunny Southern Rhône, nearly 90% of them red blends. Although vintners are allowed to…

Northeastern Italy’s Veneto region is probably best known for its rich, ageworthy reds called Amarone della Valpolicella. But the unsung hero of the Amarone blend, Italy’s native Corvina grape, also contributes to other appealing reds from the area. These range from fresh, light-bodied versions that pair perfectly with pizza to bottlings with a bit more body and richness. As a group they’re more accessible than Amarone, in terms of weight and style as well as price. The Veneto is the global center of Corvina production, with about 98% of the world’s Corvina vines grown in the region, primarily in Valpolicella. Wines from the Valpolicella DOC require Corvina as anywhere from 45% to 95% of the blend, with Corvinone, Rondinella and other varieties making up the remainder. Beyond Valpolicella, IGT versions…

This is an exciting moment for California Sauvignon Blanc. There’s new enthusiasm among wine lovers and winemakers alike for this versatile offering, which is also one of the most consistent sources of value when it comes to white wines from the Golden State. Sauvignon Blanc is easy to grow, with naturally large yields that need to be managed to make concentrated and balanced wines. The recent evolution of the variety in California started with vintners treating it more seriously in the vineyard. Often picked at the beginning of harvest, Sauvignon Blanc typically avoids the late-season drama of rain and rot that can affect other varieties, giving consistency from vintage to vintage. Methods such as trellising and leaf-pulling take the grape to the next level, helping to achieve even ripening and…

Tuesday is a good day to drink sparkling wine, and so is Wednesday. There are no wrong days, just leave it at that. Maybe the chumps still wait until the holidays or a wedding, but there’s no reason the rest of us should. That’s where domestic bubbly comes in. While producers in the United States are making outstanding sparklers, Champagne continues to rule the luxury end. But when it comes to value, America is keen competition. Sparkling wine is made today in nearly every wine region across the country, from California, Oregon and Washington to Texas, New Mexico, Virginia and Ohio. Just don’t call domestic bubbly Champagne. That’s a distinction U.S. consumers increasingly understand. Champagne is sparkling wine that comes from the region of the same name in France. Not…

Vintage Port is one of the world’s most distinctive and ageworthy wines. Boasting a long history, the production of Port remains steeped in tradition today. Because of this stature, as well as the need to cellar Vintage Ports for two decades or more before they reach their peak, buying these consistently high quality wines requires a commitment on the part of the consumer—but one that is amply rewarded. The release of the 2020 vintage, from a hot growing season marked by intense fruit and low yields, offers fans the chance to buy Vintage Ports that will mature a bit sooner than truly classic years such as 2017 and 2011. Though lacking a bit in terms of vibrancy and structure, the 2020s deliver a very hedonistic experience. This is an ideal…

Globe-trotting vintner Christian Moueix presented four vintages of his Napa Cabernet blend, including Dominus Estate Napa Valley 2018, Wine Spectator’s 2021 Wine of the Year. “The first day I arrived in the vineyard [in 1981], I had the feeling right away,” said Moueix of his initial impressions of the historic Napanook vineyard in Napa Valley’s Yountville AVA. “And I said to my friend, ‘I think we can produce one of the great wines of California.’” Senior editor James Molesworth remarked that each of the wines poured displayed the unique fingerprint of the meticulously farmed 134-acre vineyard and its gravelly clay soils. Moueix worked for his family’s négociant firm in Bordeaux for many years and also trained at the University of California, Davis. He describes his winemaking philosophy as “gentle”—except when…

Few wine lovers are lucky enough to taste a single vintage of Pingus, the cult Tempranillo of Spain’s Ribera del Duero region. But Wine Experience guests got three in one sitting as Dominio de Pingus founder and winemaker Peter Sisseck led a seminar featuring the 2018, 2016 and 2010 vintages of his rare cuvée. “My wines early on were made with a lot of love, but I had no idea if I was making wine that could be aged and improve with time,” said Sisseck, who helped put Ribera on the wine map in the mid-1990s. “It was a lucky experiment. Sometimes experiments become traditions when they succeed.” A Denmark native, Sisseck arrived in Spain after making wine in Bordeaux. He fell in love with Ribera, soon discovering two parcels…

Oregon’s stupendous 2019 vintage made its Wine Experience debut with terroir-driven reds from top producers in Willamette Valley. “Willamette Valley Pinot is linked inextricably to its geography, geology and landscape,” said winemaker Josh Bergström. Bergström described his 2019 Bergström Vineyard Dundee Hills as a blend of power and elegance, with a sanguine texture typical of wines from the red clay soils of the Dundee Hills AVA. Joining Bergstöm were Evening Land’s Sashi Moorman, Domaine Drouhin’s Véronique Boss-Drouhin and Zena Crown’s Shane Moore. The Domaine Drouhin Dundee Hills Laurène 2019 offered a look at how the family’s Burgundy roots are reflected at their Oregon winery. Boss-Drouhin explained that they follow a process created by Burgundian monks that includes a strict selection of vineyard blocks for the final blend. Evening Land Eola-Amity…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 96 Aubert Chardonnay Sonoma Coast CIX 2020 $110 CALIFORNIA Complex, detailed and layered, with terrific intensity to the pineapple, mango and peach flavors, which are joined by details of salted butterscotch, dried fennel, star anise, mineral and honeycomb. Packs plenty of juiciness on the long, expressive finish that just goes on and on. Drink now through 2030. 1,127 cases made.—M.W. 95 Cayuse Cabernet Sauvignon Walla Walla Valley The Widowmaker En Chamberlin Vineyard 2019 $102 WASHINGTON An impressive wine, finely structured and dynamic, with blackberry and red currant flavors accented by river stone, black olive and savory meat. Builds richness toward medium-grained tannins. Drink now through 2032.…

The trial in Bordeaux’s Tribunal last October lasted just six hours, but the figures discussed were mind-boggling. According to the prosecution, from 2016 to 2019, 131 tanker trucks hauled the equivalent of 380,000 cases of cheap Spanish wine north into France, where five wine professionals are charged with passing it off as more expensive French wine, mainly Bordeaux appellations including pricey Margaux, St.-Julien and Pomerol. According to the prosecutors’ case, it all started with miserable weather. Back in 2013, a meager crop left Michel Gilin, sales manager for Celliers Vinicoles du Blayais (CVB), part of the cooperative Tutiac, worried that the firm wouldn’t have enough wine to fulfill their orders and maintain their client base. Gilin reached out to a Bordeaux negociant named Jean-Sebastien Lafleche. They organized the purchase of…

There is so much to be impressed by when it comes to Australian wine. The passion and commitment of Aussie winemakers is always on display, as is the regional and stylistic diversity of the wines themselves. But what’s more unexpected is how high the quality is among the country’s value-priced bottlings. Peaking about a decade ago, Australian wine in the U.S. seemed to be defined by cheap and cheerful quaffs, often with cartoon critters on the labels and typically selling for $10 or less. The market was flooded with these bottlings, which dominated the Australia section of wineshops. Don’t get me wrong—there were some great bargains among them, and there’s a good reason why Yellow Tail was the most imported wine into the U.S. for a stretch (peaking at more…

Of all Italian wines, Chianti Classico delivers some of the best value for your dollar. But if you’re looking for Sangiovese with greater depth, structure and longevity, the riserva category checks all of those boxes for just a few dollars more. In general, outstanding Chianti Classico riservas cost $25 to $55, with plenty of options at $40 or less, including the eight wines selected here. These bottlings are considerably less expensive than the gran selezione category at the top of the region’s price and quality hierarchy. Production regulations require riservas to age for 24 months. Some of that aging occurs in wood, whether in small barrels or large casks, followed by a minimum of three months in bottle before release. But longer aging isn’t the only difference. It’s also the…

When Isabel Ferrando experienced her first vintage in 2003 at her newly purchased St.-Préfert estate in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, she was worried about the extreme heat. Her mentor, Henri Bonneau, one of the region’s most revered vignerons, tried to put the inexperienced vintner at ease. “He told me not to worry,” she says. “He assured me that 2003 was an unusually hot vintage and I would never see those conditions again.” Of course, Bonneau, who died in 2016, had no way of knowing how wrong he was. With two decades of winemaking under her belt in this increasingly hot region of southern France, Ferrando long ago stopped waiting for normal to return. “What is a normal year? I have never met a normal year. We have the capacity to adapt and we…

Legends took the stage to guide the audience through a remarkable lineup of the country’s favorite white wine. Wine Spectator senior editor MaryAnn Worobiec referred to the trio—Mark Aubert, Paul Hobbs and David Ramey—as “the Mount Rushmore of California Chardonnay.” Aubert, Hobbs and Ramey each brought two vintages of a single-vineyard Sonoma Chardonnay; the six wines not only reinforced the trio’s reputations, they affirmed the significant influence they’ve wielded in the category. “California Chardonnay is having a Golden Age. The wines are better than ever,” Worobiec said. “[There’s a greater] balance between power and elegance than ever before.” The winemaking veterans looked back on their decades of experience and the evolution of Golden State Chardonnay during that time. The winemaking process in the ’80s was “quite brutal,” Hobbs recalled. Ramey…

The Chianti Classico seminar starred wines bearing the zone’s top designation, gran selezione, all from the stellar 2019 vintage. Senior editor Bruce Sanderson outlined the ancient Tuscan region’s trajectory over the past 50 years, culminating in increasingly fine and distinctive wines emphasizing the Sangiovese grape and the Chianti Classico DOCG’s terroir. “The driving force has been the vision and passion of [Chianti’s] producers and viticulturists,” he said. “The people who are determined to interpret their territory and make great wines from it. [Among them] Antinori, Fontodi, Castello di Ama and Barone Ricasoli.” Albiera Antinori of Marchese Antinori spoke about Badia a Passignano, a small abbey with a long history of grape-growing. Sharing her Badia a Passignano Gran Selezione 2019, she said, “It has the wonderful silkiness that you will always…

BY THE NUMBERS The Jan. 31 – Feb. 28 Buying Guide features 58 classic wines and nearly 450 outstanding wines from among reviews of more than 550 new releases. Members can access tasting notes and scores for those wines, along with hundreds of additional wines reviewed since our last issue, using the Wine Ratings search at WineSpectator.com.…

The world of wine is too vast for any one person to know all its secrets, especially when it comes to tracking down the best bargains. So, we called in Wine Spectator’s team of editors for the second year in a row to select the top values of the past 12 months. This is an extension of our regular coverage of values in the magazine and at Wine-Spectator.com, highlighting delicious, affordable bottlings that overdeliver on quality for the price. Wines that are easy on your wallet offer an ideal entry point for a region or variety, giving you an opportunity for exploration without breaking the bank. The thrill of trying something new is one of the many pleasures of wine, and as quality has risen across the globe, it’s easier…

Richly flavored red wines, led by Cabernet Sauvignon and Carmenère, have long been part of Chile’s recipe for success. Yet these wines aren’t exclusive to the country’s top tier. The $20-to-$30 range has become a sweet spot for many Chilean reds, offering an entrée to the higher echelons. This narrow country’s distinctive terroirs and idyllic climate allow numerous grapes to thrive. Carmenère, despite its French origins, has found a home in Chile. Yet, as vintner Sebastián De Martino points out, few producers are seriously engaging with Carmenère as a flagship wine. “Cabernet Sauvignon has more traction and a higher ceiling,” De Martino says. “We don’t know the full potential of Carmenère and are seeing how far we can go.” Despite Carmenère’s demanding personality, he believes in the potential payoff. Carmenère…

On the banks of the Duero River, at the western side of Spain in the Iberian Peninsula, we find the Toro Denomination of Origin (DO). Sitting atop a hill, the town of Toro guards innumerable treasures: old wineries, historic palaces, the magnificent Collegiate Church of Santa Marfa la Mayor and a landmark castle with views of the Duero river. The tradition of Toro wines is ancient, dating back to before the settlement of the Romans. Toro wine was consumed in the court of the kings of Spain, and it even accompanied Christopher Columbus on his voyage to the New World, becoming the first wine to reach America. Even then, the unique properties and high alcoholic strength of Toro wine allowed it to stay preserved for long journeys. CROSSED BYTHE DUERO…

There are few grapes that inspire as much confusion and misunderstanding as Riesling. While the variety is a favorite of many sommeliers and wine geeks around the world, most people avoid Rieslings altogether, assuming they are all sweet (they’re not). Or they simply don’t think about Riesling at all. But anyone in the market for a well-priced white that offers beautiful fruit purity powered by racy acidity and minerality should take a second look. Riesling thrives in a number of diverse regions across the globe, places where there are sloping, rocky soils and cool climates. The Finger Lakes region of New York has become an excellent source of great—and well-priced—Riesling. Many of the best hail from the steep slopes of Seneca and Cayuga lakes. Hermann J. Wiemer pioneered the grape…

“Value” and “Pinot Noir” are not often found in the same sentence. That’s because Pinot is the fussy child of red wines, persnickety in the vineyard and in the cellar, making average price points for the wines relatively high. Many of the top California Pinots sell for upward of $100, and the price of red Burgundy is off the charts. While the cost of Oregon Pinot is creeping up, many best buys remain if you know what to look for. First, it’s good to be aware that Oregon Pinot Noir, particularly from Willamette Valley, generally fits in between Old World Burgundy and New World California versions. Rarely overripe, the wines have bright acidity, tension and savory qualities that create an appealing dynamic. If you’re looking for value, Pinots with a…

The 2019 vintage was a hard act to follow—a stunning year offering wines of power, concentration and longevity—yet the 2020 harvest offers a lot to get excited about. Since last year’s report, Wine Spectator has reviewed more than 475 wines from the Northern and Southern Rhône, the bulk of which are from the 2020 vintage. In total, 369 wines earned ratings of 90 points or higher, including 60 wines that scored in the classic range of 95-plus. An impressive 143 wines rated 88 or more points while costing $30 or less, illustrating the region’s ability to deliver both grands vins and great value. As in previous years, the Rhône experienced very hot, dry conditions throughout much of the 2020 growing season, yet the wines show excellent freshness and slightly lower…

Three of the French region’s most prestigious labels—Cristal, Dom Pérignon and Krug—kicked off the 2022 seminar lineup, rousing guests with 2008 vintage Champagnes. “We have a breakfast of Champagne this morning!” chuckled Jean-Baptiste Lécaillon, chef de cave and executive vice president of Louis Roederer and Cristal. “Virtually every house and winemaker bottled a 2008—a testament to the unique character of the vintage,” explained senior editor Alison Napjus. “What I found in my tastings was a powerhouse profile of wines with truly monumental acidity, but there’s also a distinctive textural component that helps to soften the impact of that acidic backbone and to carry an expanded flavor range.” One of the most distinguished Champagne vintages in recent memory, the 2008 harvest was preceded by a frigid and wet winter, but the…

Continuing the Barolo legacy, Franco Conterno of Poderi Aldo Conterno described his family’s journey in winemaking over centuries, highlighting how he and his brothers are approaching their lauded Piedmont label today. “Our philosophy in our generation is to have the perfect balance in our wines,” said Conterno. “For us, the ‘place’ is our goal.” And that place is in the village of Monforte d’Alba, in the hamlet of Bussia, bordering Castiglione Falletto. Franco is one of three sons of the late Aldo Conterno, widely considered one of the masters of Barolo. Aldo brought a modern sensibility to his wines, combining that with classic Barolo methods; counter to his contemporaries, he shortened the time Nebbiolo spent macerating on its skins, believing the longer that process, the harsher the tannins the wines…

Four culinary stars returned to battle a Wine Spectator editor, and each other, at this year’s New York Wine Experience. Seasoned attendees eagerly await the annual Chefs’ Challenge, a competition to see who can come up with the best wine-and-food pairings. José Andrés of José Andrés Restaurant Group and World Central Kitchen, Emeril Lagasse of Wine Spectator Grand Award–winning Emeril’s New Orleans, restaurateur Danny Meyer of New York–based Union Square Hospitality Group and Eric Ripert of Grand Award winner Le Bernardin bonded over a common goal: To beat senior editor Bruce Sanderson, who was taking over for former executive editor Thomas Matthews. Each chef was tasked with bringing a dish of their choice; it was then paired with two wines—one selected by a fellow chef, the second by Sanderson. “Because…

New Zealand’s Josh Scott carries on a Sauvignon Blanc legacy at Allan Scott Family Winemakers, a winery that his parents, Allan and Catherine Scott, grapegrowers since 1973, founded in the Marlborough region in 1990. “It’s a real grassroots story,” Scott explained. “Dad started at the very bottom and worked his way up to eventually being one of the recognized, national viticulturists.” (Allan had previously been a sheep shearer, Catherine a nurse.) Josh honed his skills in Napa Valley and in France’s Loire Valley, where he began his life’s work of producing Sauvignon Blancs with structure and minerally character. Marlborough provided the ideal weather and soil to do just that. Today, Scott oversees winemaking alongside his sister, Sara Stocker, who manages the viticulture. “We know all our vineyards intimately,” said Scott.…

The Bordeaux first-growth is famed for powerful expressions of Pauillac terroir, and its art labels represent a compelling history as well. The audience was brought to a gallery of both during a vertical tasting, in which Philippe Sereys de Rothschild and estate manager Jean-Emmanuel Danjoy shared four vintages of the grand vin, each a decade apart. “Wine is worldwide, art is worldwide … perceptions, affections, memories, all these are worldwide,” said de Rothschild of Mouton’s label tradition. Of the 2016, senior editor James Molesworth praised the purity of fruit and observed that Mouton has kept the percentage of Merlot in the blend relatively constant. Danjoy recognized the wine’s “huge personality,” adding they didn’t know what was in their “hands” until halfway through harvest. Molesworth described the 2006 as a “battleship,”…