Indholdsfortegnelse for July 31, 2023 i Wine Spectator

FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS BACKYARD DINING Some of the country’s best chefs share their cooking tips and delicious make-at-home summer recipes, while our editors give you great value wine matches from their recent tastings. 2023 NEW YORK WINE EXPERIENCE Don’t miss your chance to taste an exciting variety of wines from the world’s best vintners, including top-scoring bottlings and rare older vintages. This year’s event will take place Oct. 19–21 at the Marriott Marquis in New York’s Times Square. Weekend packages, which include VIP Grand Tasting access, plus wine seminars and the Champagne reception, are selling fast. NEED-TO-KNOW NEWS For both consumers and the trade, WineSpectator.com is the place to go to find out which big-name wineries have been sold, how tariffs might impact your wine choices, the latest in wine…

An auction of wines straight from the cellars of Masseto, the renowned single-vineyard Merlot from Bolgheri, brought in impressive numbers at Sotheby’s this spring. The grand sum of just over $400,000 was almost double the pre-auction estimate of $220,000. Topping the 46 lots was a 15-liter bottle of the 2010 vintage (one of only 20 nebuchadnezzars the winery produced that year), which fetched more than $60,000, the highest auction price ever paid for a single bottle of Masseto. Other top lots included imperials (6-liter bottles) of the 2001 and 2016 vintages, which sold for more than $16,000 each. The auction was conducted online from April 12 to 27 and drew bidders from around the world. The sale marks the first time bottles have been auctioned directly from Masseto’s caveau, the…

At Dutton Ranch’s headquarters, Steve Dutton’s office is filled with family photos and sports memorabilia. A one-eyed black cat named Jet lays on his desk. Steve begins his family’s story: “My parents, Warren and Gail, bought this property that we’re on in 1964. My father is a fourth-generation farmer, so he grew up on farms and ranches that his father and his grandfather managed in the Santa Rosa area.” Warren talked to area wine pioneers Robert Young and Rodney Strong, who recommended planting Chardonnay. The Duttons took the advice, while continuing to grow walnuts, pears, plums and acres of apples as well. It wasn’t until the 1980s that grapes became a main focus. As a kid, Steve Dutton’s least favorite chore was packing apples. “But as soon as I could…

It’s easy to spot Hudson Ranch while driving along Carneros Highway—just look for the Texas flag north of the highway. Lee Hudson is a proud Texas native who purchased his ranch in 1981, now grown to about 2,000 acres. Only 200 acres are planted, surround by steep hills filled with native oaks and plenty of wildlife. But what is planted to grapes has made it one of the most lauded vineyards in California. Ask Hudson what makes a vineyard great, and he says with a hint of Texan twang, “Ultimately, it comes down to longevity, reputation and deliverability.” Hudson has been delivering terrific grapes since he first started working with then-Newton winemaker John Kongsgaard in 1983. He’s also grown grapes for other powerhouse wineries, including Ramey, Rombauer, Aubert and Duckhorn.…

Nicholas Miller stands on a steep slope of the renowned Bien Nacido Vineyard, in the heart of the Santa Maria Valley, as the afternoon winds whip around. Miller, chief sales and marketing officer and executive vice president of Miller Family Wine Company, explains the gusts. “This valley opens to this ocean in one of the few places in the world that has transverse mountain ranges running to the ocean,” says Miller. “So in the spring and summer, when the afternoons warm up [in this interior valley of California], the hot air rises. It creates a vacuum that basically turns this valley into a giant fan. Usually by 2 or 3 o’clock in the afternoon, you can be hunkered down and trying to stay warm. It’s not just cold—it’s cold cold.”…

Whether it’s that first glimpse of the Eiffel Tower, the crunch of a perfect baguette or the pop of a bottle of Champagne at an outdoor café, moments like these are why Paris remains the top travel destination for Americans visiting Europe. Known as one of the most romantic cities in the world, Paris is rich in history, art, architecture, fashion and, of course, world-class food and wine. But Paris also provides access to the rest of France, with each region offering its own art and history, stunning vistas, culinary specialties and wines. From the haunting beaches of Normandy and the luxurious châteaus of the Loire Valley to the picturesque towns of Burgundy’s Côte d’Or and the lavender fields along the French Riviera, France’s charms are manifold. PARIS Le Calife…

Portugal is a country on the rise for American travelers, with the number of tourists from the States increasing 327% in 2022 versus 2021, and 27% when comparing 2022 to 2019’s pre-COVID levels, according to the Instituto Nacional de Estatística (INE), Portugal’s government office for national statistics. It’s a beautiful country with a rich history, travel there is accessible and relatively wallet-friendly, and almost everyone speaks English. And while Port dessert wine is a signature of the country and a benchmark wine category, Portugal’s white and red table wines have skyrocketed in quality in the past two decades. Portugal is definitely doing everything it can to earn its increasing tourism, and doing it well. PORTO The Yeatman LUXURY ON THE DOURO RIVER 250 Rua do Choupelo, Vila Nova de Gaia…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 97 Kistler Chardonnay Russian River Valley Vine Hill Vineyard 2020 $95 CALIFORNIA Remarkable, with incredible depth and complexity, this oozes with apple pastry and buttery notes. Lemon curd flavors are juicy and mouthwatering, with salty minerality adding a savory thread, backed by floral highlights of orange blossoms that show a hint of spices. Offers nice tension between the rich flavors and vibrant acidity, with a long, graceful finish. Drink now through 2030. 900 cases made.—M.W. 96 HdV Chardonnay Napa Valley Hyde Vineyard 2020 $85 CALIFORNIA A stunning, expressive white, with a savory, minerally edge that’s distinctive and crisp, imparting elegance and restraint on the core of Honeycrisp…

Meet the granddaddy of American artisanal cheese, which, for well over a century, has managed to perform a successful balancing act between Old World tradition and California commerce. Founded in 1865, Marin French Cheese Company, situated amid a lovely expanse of rolling green hills in the heart of west Marin County, Calif., is America’s oldest continuously operating creamery. With its roster of handmade Brie-style cheeses, Marin French has long upheld artisanal standards while simultaneously achieving mass-market consistency. For rich, buttery, creamy flavors and textures, it’s every bit equal to its finest French rivals; likewise, its clean fresh-milk notes and mouthwatering grassy tang are clear expressions of its California terroir. The company’s unique signature product, a bona fide American original introduced by founder Jefferson Thompson 158 years ago, was a miniature…

“I own this ranch—but I don’t really own it,” says Charlie Heintz. “I’m more of a caretaker, because I’m here for my little moment, and that’s it. I don’t care about big sacks of money. I just feel very honored to be here. I really do. To find family farming operations that are still in business after 100-plus years? It’s rare. And it’s becoming rarer.” Two mountain ridges in from the Pacific Ocean is the Heintz homestead and vineyard. It’s a cool area where the Sonoma Coast, Russian River Valley and Green Valley appellations over-lap. Heintz’s grandparents settled on this piece of land in 1912. His grandfather was originally from Germany, his grandmother from Holland. They lived in Missouri, and then South Dakota, but the farming there was so difficult…

“Vineyards are my love,” admits Durell owner Bill Price. “I didn’t expect that. But after I bought Durell, I found that the seasonality of vineyards resonates with me.” Price is a wine lover with a background as a financial investor and experience in business consulting, but these interests didn’t align until 1996. In 1992, he cofounded Texas Pacific Group (now known as TPG Capital), which would grow into one of the largest private equity firms in the world. When Nestlé was looking to sell off its wine division, Wine World Estates (which it had built after buying Beringer in 1971), TPG purchased Wine World Estates from Nestlé for $350 million in 1996, renaming it Beringer Wine Estates. TPG acquired Chateau St. Jean, Stags’ Leap Winery and St. Clement before selling…

Incorporating the relaxed mentality of Italy’s la dolce vita (“the sweet life”) is an ideal addition to a European vacation. But for many American visitors, it’s busy days of artistic, religious and historical sightseeing in Florence, Rome and Venice that bring them to Italy’s shores. Tourism is also on the rise in Piedmont and Sicily, thanks to the popularity in the U.S. of wines from these regions. Beyond these touch points, Italy encompasses 20 distinct regions, each offering its own culture, landscapes, wines and foods. Whether you are visiting for the first time or adding yet another Italy entry stamp to your passport, opportunities abound to take in the sights, sounds and delicious flavors of bella Italia. VENICE Cantine del Vino già Schiavi SNACK LIKE A VENETIAN 992 Fondamenta Nani…

Without a doubt, part of the beauty of Spanish wine lies in its breadth and diversity. Bottlings encompass a range of styles produced from dozens of different grape varieties, including still reds and whites, sparkling and dessert wines, and distinctive fortified versions. There are more than 70 appellations recognized across Spain’s many regions, encompassing both coastal areas and mountainous landscapes, as well as valleys and plains. Within even a single Denominación de Origen (DO), the terroir can be remarkably varied. Yes, this diversity is a strength, but it’s also a challenge, as Spanish winemakers try to tell the story of their country’s wines to a fragmented global market. Yet over the course of my recent tastings, I’ve begun to recognize a number of similar themes running through Spain’s offerings. Across…

Belgian surrealist René Magritte’s paintings are famous for suggesting that all may not be as it appears, but in the case of a recent shipment of the “Champagne of Beers,” Belgian authorities are quite certain of one thing: Miller High Life is not Champagne. Thus, on April 17, according to a joint statement issued by Belgium’s General Administration of Customs and France’s Comité Champagne trade group, more than 2,000 cans of Miller High Life beer were destroyed after being deemed to have infringed on Champagne’s Protected Designation of Origin, or PDO. Authorities ensured that the entire batch, both its contents and containers, “was recycled in an environmentally responsible manner,” the statement said. In a released video, customs officials visibly took a ton of pleasure in emptying the High Life cans…

Marchesi Antinori is solidifying its foothold in Napa Valley, buying complete control of Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars from Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Antinori has been a minority partner at the iconic Napa winery since Ste. Michelle purchased it from founder Warren Winiarski in 2007, and on May 9 the companies announced that Antinori will be buying the remaining 85% stake from Ste. Michelle. The sale includes the winery, brand and inventory, and close to 300 acres of Napa vines, including the Fay and S.L.V. vineyards. The purchase price was not disclosed. “There are few opportunities in one’s lifetime when such an important and historical winery as Stag’s Leap is available. I have to thank Ste. Michelle Wine Estates for this great occasion that has been given to us,” said Piero…

What do Las Vegas, Chicago and south Florida have in common? For three nights in April, each hosted 230 of the world’s greatest wines, as Wine Spectator held its 2023 Grand Tour. More than 1,000 attendees in each city swirled and tasted outstanding wines, each one reviewed at 90 points or higher. Numerous winery owners and winemakers were on hand to pour for the thirsty crowds of consumers, restaurant owners and retailers. “The tasting is incredible, even better than last year. It’s not only crowded, but what’s most incredible is the amazing selection of wines,” said Alessandra Casini Bindi Sergardi, owner of Bindi Sergardi in Chianti Classico. “It’s important for us producers to show our faces, show our wines and show our land.” The Grand Tour kicked off at the…

It remains puzzling that South African wine has been slow to gain momentum and recognition in the United States. By any measure, Cape vintners are turning out both reds and whites that should entice any wine fan. Since my previous report (“Open Range,” Aug. 31, 2022), I have reviewed more than 200 wines at our New York office, tasting throughout the year as new vintages became available. Looking back on the group as a whole, I’m still impressed by the scope of wines and styles, with bottlings produced from nearly two dozen different grapes, encompassing everything from boutique, single-vineyard expressions to broader, territorial offerings. Nearly 60% of the wines under review earned outstanding ratings of 90 points or higher on Wine Spectator’s 100-point scale, while 40% of the total number…

The saying “great wine starts in the vineyard” holds plenty of truth, particularly when it comes to Chardonnay. The grape can be wonderfully transparent, with the imprint of the vineyard often as significant as the fingerprint of the winemaker’s choices. What makes a great Chardonnay vineyard? Winemaker James Hall of Patz & Hall sums it up succinctly: “Well, all of the objective details: soil type, aspect, rootstock, clone and farming. Then there’s the intangibles that are more elusive—it has to be terroir driven. I want my wines to make people search for adjectives.” For this story, I focus on vineyards that sell grapes to multiple clients (versus estate vineyards, of which there are also plenty to celebrate). I took into account track records of scores from our blind tastings, and…

Vittorio Sangiacomo emigrated from Genova, Italy, in 1913 and was working in the garbage business in San Francisco when he discovered Sonoma—he would come up on the weekends to get away from the foggy weather. He longed for the family farm back in Italy. So in 1927, he bought a 55-acre parcel in Sonoma, known now as the Home Ranch. At first, he planted apples and cherries and pear trees, becoming one of the largest pear growers in Northern California, packing and sending the fruit to canneries. The Sangiacomo grand-children—Mike, Steve and Mia—recall eating plenty of canned pears growing up. “Canned pears and Cheddar cheese was a favorite snack,” says Mia. Vittorio’s four children—Angelo, Bob, Buck and Lorraine—wanted to diversify to other agricultural crops, especially as the pear business was…

Monterey’s Salinas Valley has been called the “Salad Bowl of the World” for its bounty of lettuce, broccoli and other vegetable crops. But the area’s status as a wine region is less distinct. Monterey County is vast, with nine sub-American Viticultural Areas where grapes are grown, and the style and quality of the wines can range wildly. It’s remote enough that there is no tourism culture to complement the wine region (but there are plenty of restaurants and tasting rooms in the nearby city of Carmel). While driving down Highway 101 through Monterey’s farmlands, it’s easy to miss one of the best spots for Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Syrah in the state. Tucked against the Santa Lucia Mountains is the Santa Lucia Highlands, a region 18 miles long and 2…

Spain draws travelers for a variety of reasons. Serious foodies love San Sebastián and Basque Country in the north; Barcelona calls to those seeking intriguing architecture and design; art lovers flock to Madrid; and Ibiza’s party scene is legendary. But like other leading European countries for travel, Spain’s intimate relationship between local wine, food products and cuisine creates a distinctive experience with every sip and taste, to be enjoyed at locations throughout the country. SAN SEBASTIÁN Restaurante Rekondo A GRAND AWARD IN NORTHERN SPAIN 57 Paseo de Igeldo | rekondo.com | Grand Award To truly plumb the depths and breadth of Spanish wine, a visit to Restaurante Rekondo is an absolute must. Located on the outskirts of San Sebastián, a food lovers’ mecca and resort town in northern Spain, the…

BY THE NUMBERS The July 31 Buying Guide features 27 classic wines and 400 outstanding wines from among reviews of more than 550 new releases. Members can access tasting notes and scores for those wines, along with hundreds of additional wines reviewed since our last issue, using the Wine Ratings search at WineSpectator.com.…

There were some perks to being emperor in ancient Rome: authority over a mighty empire, vast riches, the right to distribute free grain and, apparently, owning your own private winery. A paper published in April in the archaeology journal Antiquity offers new insight into a royal Roman winemaking complex dating to the 3rd century AD. In the paper, researchers explain that in 2017, archaeologists uncovered a winery at the Villa of the Quintilii near Rome, a ruined manse with imperial connections. The brick complex featured a grape-trodding area, two presses, a must-vat, and channels connecting them to a cellar filled with storage jars. The layout is typical of a winery, but the site stands out for its “colored and decorative architecture,” lead researcher Emlyn Dodd told Wine Spectator. “It is…