Indholdsfortegnelse for December 15, 2023 i Wine Spectator

West Coast This group from California, Oregon and Washington features a range of affordable white wines along with a Pinot Noir and a rosé. Companion Wine Co.’s Pinot Gris and Broc Cellars’ Love White, a fragrant blend of Picpoul de Pinet, Clairette, Orange Muscat, Marsanne, Roussanne and Chardonnay, come in 355ml cans. BRICK HOUSE Chardonnay Ribbon Ridge 2021 (92, $29) Succulent, crisp, steely; orange blossoms, lemon curd, peach HYLAND Pinot Noir McMinnville Petit Estate Single Vineyard 2021 (92, $30) Raspberry, cinnamon, black tea; fragrant, sleek, silky BROC CELLARS Love White California NV (89, $10/355ml) Fragrant, floral; jasmine, honey-suckle, apple, pear, lemon sherbet, white pepper A TO Z WINEWORKS Rosé Oregon 2022 (88, $17) Cherry, strawberry, spice; zesty, succulent COMPANION WINE CO. Pinot Gris San Benito County Skin Contact 2022 (88,…

A story spread on the Internet in August that the U.S. government was planning to restrict alcohol consumption, provoking outrage among alcohol industry members and libertarians. But the story was a complete Heffalump. One of my favorite chapters in A.A. Milne’s Winnie-the-Pooh is when Piglet spies Pooh walking in the woods on a snowy day, staring at the ground. The “Bear of Little Brain” is following a set of tracks that he believes to be those of a malignant creature, the Heffalump. As he wanders, Pooh keeps finding new tracks and is convinced Heffalumps are nearby. After Piglet runs away in terror, Pooh belatedly realizes that he’s been circling one part of the forest and that he’s following his own footsteps. Sometimes, in our information-overload world, we end up chasing…

Jonathan Adler Bond Bar Cart (jonathanadler.com; $2,000) This eye-catching bar cart elevates any room and puts your favored bottles and cocktail gear on full display. Exotic burled Mappa wood (from a type of European poplar) contrasts with modern acrylic panels and stainless-steel accents for a high-design yet warm aesthetic. The top shelf features a hidden drawer, ideal for storing smaller gadgets. Maison Premiere Almanac (penguinrandomhouse.com; $40) Since opening in 2011, Brooklyn’s Maison Premiere has made a name for itself with its thoughtful approach to oysters, absinthe, the Martini and more. This stylish, breezy book is an inspiring love letter to New Orleans, Muscadet, the green fairy, and cocktails both classic and inventive—and most of all, the people who make and enjoy them. Waterford Mixology Mixed Coupe Set (waterford.com/en-us; $420 per…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 97 Bollinger Extra Brut Champagne R.D. 2008 $440 FRANCE This focused Champagne is all about the graceful definition of power, with an up-front, austere edge to the steely acidity, which is softened by the fine, plush mousse and well-integrated with the rich profile. Toasted hazelnut, crystallized honey, peach skin and nectarine flavors expand on the palate, accented by hints of ground ginger, oyster shell and preserved lemon, with a racy streak of salinity that drives the mouthwatering finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Disgorged October 2022. Drink now through 2038. 300 cases imported.—A.N. 96 Pierre Péters Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Les Chétillons Cuvée Spéciale 2016 $188 FRANCE…

I knew Bernard Arnault when he was poor. Relatively speaking. Today, at the time of publication, he is the world’s second-richest man. Or possibly the richest, depending on daily fluctuations of the stock market and the current value of Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy (LVMH), the company he founded and chairs. Arnault has brilliantly amassed a portfolio of fashion and jewelry brands second to none. In addition to the accretion of immense wealth, this has made him one of the world’s most admired businessmen. What often goes unnoticed is that he has also quietly assembled a portfolio of luxury brands in wine and spirits—revered names such as Dom Pérignon, Krug, Château d’Yquem, Château Cheval Blanc and Colgin. I can think of no one else who has done this so methodically over…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 94 IRON HORSE Brut Green Valley of Russian River Valley Classic Vintage 2019 $58 CALIFORNIA A bubbly that shows richness and verve, this cuvée features lilting flavors of apple tart, crème brûlée and lemon verbena that finish with a spicy accent of fresh ginger. COLLECTIBLE 94 PIO CESARE Barbaresco Il Bricco 2019 $144 ITALY Packed with cherry, raspberry, floral and mineral aromas and flavors, this red is reserved yet harmonious and structured, revealing notes of iron, tobacco and underbrush that add complexity on the long, dense aftertaste. SMART BUY 90 VIÑA LEYDA Pinot Noir Leyda Valley Coastal Vineyards Las Brisas 2022 $20 CHILE This elegant version opens with a note of truffle, while a mineral undercurrent adds vibrancy to the juicy cherry, strawberry and blood orange flavors at…

To’ak Alchemy bars (toakchocolate.com; $16 for 2 ounces) To’ak gets a lot of attention for being the world’s most expensive chocolate. The new Alchemy line is more accessibly priced and also has added flavors, which is somewhat unusual among fine chocolate producers. To’ak’s approach is a sort of vertical integration where every detail informs their vision: ingredients such as Amazonian ants and Galapagos salt are all from the region and the labels were commissioned from local artists, and are available as fine art prints. Dar Chocolate Art Bars (darchocolate.com; $9 for 1.75 ounces) Dar is a relatively new company, founded by a couple who fell in love with chocolate-making while living in Costa Rica. Today they are based in Colorado, where they produce flavored and unflavored bars. As part of…

Nebula Mars 3 Projector (us.seenebula.com; $1,050) Just because there’s no couch, that’s no reason to cancel wine and movie night. This projector will keep a crowd entertained with an impressive cinematic experience that includes Dolby Audio and a crisp 1080p picture. Project onto a screen, backyard fence or even a camping tarp for up to five hours on a single charge. It’s built to withstand the inevitable rain showers and drops in the dirt, because the show must go on. Recycled Titanium Aurora Bottle (snowpeak.com; $185 for 800ml) For that friend who always insists on packing a nice bottle, this striking anodized titanium vessel from Japan’s Snow Peak outfitters is ideal. Light, unbreakable and earth-friendly (thanks to 50% recycled material), it’s also corrosion-resistant and flavor neutral. Gozney Roccbox (us.gozney.com; $499)…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below). Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Spain, Italy, Champagne, South Africa Tim Fish California Zinfandel and Merlot, Oregon, Washington, U.S. sparkling wines Aaron Romano Argentina, Chile Kristen Bieler Rhône Valley and other France, Germany, Austria How We Do…

I began covering wines from the Champagne region in 2010, and one of the pleasures has been the growing trend of area winemakers bringing greater energy and diversity to the region’s offerings by adding new cuvées to their individual lineups. Earlier this year, Benoit Gouez, chef de cave at Moët & Chandon, one of Champagne’s oldest and largest houses, gave me a sneak peek of their own new cuvée: Collection Impériale NV. “It’s the sum of our savoir vin,” says Gouez, who joined Moët & Chandon in 1998 and was promoted to chef de cave in 2005. “It encapsulates everything we know in terms of sourcing the grapes, blending the wines, aging the wines.” The Collection Impériale is a non-vintage cuvée, a brut nature dosage, with extended aging and comprising…

WINE CHAMPAGNE Ruinart | 1729 Möet & Chandon | 1743 Veuve Clicquot | 1772 Krug | 1843 Mercier | 1858 Dom Pérignon | 1936 Armand de Brignac | 2006 BURGUNDY Les Clos des Lambrays | 1365 BORDEAUX Château d’Yquem | 1593 Château Cheval Blanc | 1832 PROVENCE Château Minuty | 1936 Château Galoupet | 1955 Château d’Esclans | 2006 SPAIN Bodega Numanthia | 1998 NAPA Joseph Phelps | 1973 Newton Vineyard | 1977 Colgin Cellars | 1992 ARGENTINA Terrazas de los Andes | 1996 Cheval des Andes | 1999 NEW ZEALAND Cloudy Bay | 1985 CHINA Ao Yun | 2013 SPARKLING Chandon (6 International sparkling houses in California, Argentina, Brazil, Australia, China and India) | 1959 SPIRITS COGNAC Hennessy | 1765 SCOTCH Ardbeg | 1815 Glenmorangie | 1843 VODKA Belvedere…

Most vineyards are easy to get a handle on. You can stand in the middle of them and turn around in a 360-degree circle and it all splays out before you. You see slope and aspect. You see the viti-cultural approach. You kick the dirt. You feel the prevailing breeze. You quickly get a feel for the place. Great vineyard sites don’t give up their secrets that easily. Mayacamas sits like a crown atop Napa Valley’s Mount Veeder. As you start to move through the 485-acre property, you stand in the middle of a parcel and turn around only to find that nothing splays out easily. Your view might be obscured by scrub brush or forest. You might not even be able to see the boundaries of the parcel itself…

AUSTRALIA Chardonnay 95 Tolpuddle Chardonnay Tasmania 2021 $87 A stunning white, intense and complex, opening with vivid notes of roasted, salted hazelnut, then giving way to a sleek, crisp, intense core of lime, pomelo and tangerine flavors. Delivers details of toasted sesame seed, fresh-grated ginger, lemongrass and a touch of celery seed on the long, expressive finish. Drink now through 2034. 150 cases imported.—M.W. 89 Devil’s Corner Chardonnay Tasmania 2022 $24 Sleek and crisp, with mouthwatering apple, yuzu and lime flavors, plus accents of sea salt and toasted herbs that linger on the mouthwatering finish. Drink now. 2,500 cases imported.—M.W. 89 Penfolds Chardonnay Adelaide Hills Max’s 2022 $25 Generous, with peach cobbler, Meyer lemon and details of candied ginger, lemon verbena and orange blossoms on a supple, juicy frame. Drink now.…