Indholdsfortegnelse for June 15-30 2024 i Wine Spectator

Visit WineSpectator.com/063024 to find links to all of the following resources. FREE RESOURCES FOR ALL WINESPECTATOR.COM READERS BACKYARD DINING Top chefs share cooking tips and delicious make-at-home summer recipes, while our editors recommend great value wine matches from their recent tastings. WINE & HEALTH Keep on top of the latest research with our regular Health News reports, get your questions answered in our Health Q&A and sign up for Wine & Healthy Living, our twice-monthly email newsletter. WHAT AM I TASTING? Test your skills in our mystery wine game. Every two weeks, we post a tasting note with clues from the color, aromas, flavors and structure. Then, you guess the variety, region, appellation and age of the wine. Good luck! FOLLOW WINE SPECTATOR ON THREADS Join the conversation to discover…

Patz & Hall co-founder James Hall and a small group of investors are buying the winery back eight years after it was sold to Ste. Michelle Wine Estates. Hall will be the largest shareholder. A purchase price was not disclosed. The sale is the latest move by Ste. Michelle to sell its California wineries and focus on its Washington brands. “It’s a dream come true,” Hall said. “I love being a winemaker and having an opportunity to come back in. Emotionally I didn’t have a choice. It’s a compulsion. I don’t want to retire.” Hall and Donald Patz met in the 1980s, when both worked for Napa’s Flora Springs Winery. With partners Anne Moses and Heather Patz, they launched Patz & Hall with the 1988 vintage. They made their name…

HIGHLY RECOMMENDED 96 AUBERT Chardonnay Napa Sugar Shack 2021 $110 CALIFORNIA A stunning white, with nectarine, pineapple and golden kiwifruit notes bursting out of the glass, while details of lemon curd, candied ginger peel, orange blossoms and salted caramel mingle with the supple frame, ending with a sense of finesse. COLLECTIBLE 98 PODERE SALICUTTI Brunello di Montalcino Piaggione 2019 $126 ITALY Alluring and harmonious, featuring fresh, ripe cherry, strawberry, rose and mineral flavors allied to a beautifully integrated structure. Silky in texture and complex, with a long, intense aftertaste that echoes the fruit, picking up notes of Mediterranean herbs. SMART BUY 90 MONTINORE Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Red Cap 2021 $24 OREGON Fresh and zesty, with good energy, this offers bright cherry and cranberry flavors accented by hints of orange…

Alpha Omega Collective 241 Healdsburg Ave. Telephone (707) 723-7142 Website alphaomegacollective.com/visit/healdsburg Open Thursday to Monday, noon to 7 p.m. by appointment Cost $50–$100 Alpha Omega Collective offers wine experiences by reservation only at its tasting lounge in downtown Healdsburg. Wines are available by the flight, bottle and glass. Experience Bordeaux-inspired releases from Alpha Omega in Napa Valley, Burgundian varietals Pinot Noir and Chardonnay from Tolosa on the San Luis Obispo Coast, and Mediterranean reds from Perinet in Spain’s Priorat, all in one place. —Tim Fish Bacchus Landing 14210 Bacchus Landing Way Telephone (707) 395-0697 Website bacchuslanding.com Open Thursday to Monday, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. This collective of seven boutique wineries is modeled after an old Mediterranean village, with a wide piazza and shady verandas. Tasting rooms include Dan Kosta’s Pinot and Chardonnay project Convene, Montagne Russe, which doubles as a record shop, Smith…

Drewish Deli & Healdsburg Bagel Co. 11 Mitchell Lane Telephone (707) 955-0600 Website drewishdeli.com Jewish delis and good bagels are rare in wine country, so this small shop was a welcome addition when it opened last year. Drew Ross takes his craft seriously, and his menu features all the classics: chopped liver mousse, hot pastrami, house-cured lox, knishes, matzo ball soup and, of course, bagels with schmear. Grab breakfast or lunch to go. —T.F. Journeyman Meat Co. 404 Center St. Telephone (707) 395-6328 Website journeymanmeat.com Pete Seghesio’s family has made wine and artisan salumi in Sonoma County since the late 1800s. When his family sold their winery in 2011, Seghesio and his wife, Cathy, started Journeyman Meat. The animals are born and raised in Sonoma County under Seghesio’s supervision, and the meat is processed at his nearby facility.…

There’s a calm to Alexander Valley that’s like no other Sonoma County wine region. Twenty miles from north to south and 8 miles at its widest, it is sparsely populated, with only a few dozen wineries to visit. Russian River Valley is three times the size, yet Alexander Valley has just as many acres in vineyards. Yes, there are more vines there than people, so when you set out from Healdsburg for a day trip, expect a tranquil and scenic experience. Before you hit the road, take in some history: It was named for Cyrus Alexander, who settled there in 1840 and was the first to grow wine grapes, but wheat, cattle and later prunes dominated until Cabernet Sauvignon took hold in the 1960s and 1970s. Alexander Valley is Sonoma’s…

Visiting Healdsburg means you’re close to one of the most exciting regions for Chardonnay and Pinot Noir: Russian River Valley. The entire appellation encompasses about 10,000 vineyard acres, 50 wineries and hundreds of growers—too much to explore in one day. But using Healdsburg as a base, set your sites on Westside Road, one of the most iconic stretches in the region. Many vintners see Russian River Valley as a Goldilocks spot, where the cooling Pacific Ocean interacts with inland Sonoma County; just a few miles in each direction might be too warm to grow Pinot Noir or Chardonnay. Westside Road has a wonderful concentration of outstanding wineries and famous vineyards. Plus, it’s a gorgeous drive—winding roads and beautiful scraggly oak trees, many covered in moss and dripping with lichen. Start…

THE BIRDS AND BEES Yolan, Nashville, Tenn. Best of Award of Excellence A play on the Jungle Bird, this cocktail fat-washes Campari in coconut oil, adding a velvety texture and amplifying the botanicals in the liqueur. With some easy prep beforehand, this tropical sipper is begging to be drunk by a pool. 1 ½ ounces Diplomatico Mantuano rum1 ½ ounces pineapple juice¾ ounce coconut-washed Campari (see below)½ ounce lime juice½ ounce honey syrupDehydrated pineapple slice, for garnish Add all ingredients to a cocktail shaker. Add ice cubes and shake vigorously. Strain into a rocks glass over crushed ice, and garnish with a dehydrated pineapple slice. For the coconut-washed Campari: Seal 1 cup of Campari and 2 tablespoons of melted coconut oil in a jar and shake vigorously to mix. Let…

Chateau-estoublon.com You too can live the Chateau d’Estoublon dream. Just 25 minutes from Avignon, the spectacular 16,000-square-foot chateau is available for rent in its entirety and can accommodate up to 20 guests. The castle was restored by architect Christophe Tollemer and features period furniture and antiques. Guests have access to a private pool, movie theater and an ancient chapel, and can book cooking classes and horseback riding on the property’s extensive trails. Visitors coming for the day can lunch at the estate’s restaurant, La Table d’Estoublon, which sources ingredients from its own gardens, enjoy wine and olive oil tastings, and explore the trails, vines and olive groves.…

FRANCE 96 Jacques Selosse Brut Blanc de Blancs Champagne Substance NV $475 Distinctive and savory at first, featuring hints of wood smoke, roasted almond, oyster shell and grilled herbs, this opens on the palate to reveal flavors of glazed apple, crystallized honey, singed orange peel, lime blossoms and ground coffee. Shows a streak of salinity that works in conjunction with fine-cut acidity to keep this focused through the long, mouthwatering finish. Fascinating. Drink now through 2039. 275 cases made.—A.N. 95 Foreau Vouvray Moelleux Domaine du Clos Naudin Reserve 2018 $110 A stunning display of richness, power and energy. Leaning sweet, this oozes kumquat, crushed peach and apple pie coated in honeycomb, with chamomile, warm hay and tropical highlights. Despite the opulence, this shows intense energy, with green tea tannins firming…

Much has changed in Sonoma County since our last expansive cover story on the wine region, in June 2018. And the epicenter of that evolution is the small town of Healdsburg, our focus for this issue. We’ve been covering Healdsburg for more than 30 years, ever since the first winery tasting rooms appeared downtown. A little more than 20 years ago, chef Charlie Palmer brought his culinary vision to the newly opened Hotel Healdsburg with Dry Creek Kitchen, a Wine Spectator Best of Award of Excellence winner, offering exclusively Sonoma County wines. If you have not visited in a while, you’ll be impressed with the recently completed remodel. In our August 2022 cover story, we profiled Palmer and shared his plans for Appellation Healdsburg, among the first of his new…

In the realm of seafood, uni, the edible inner part of a spiny sea urchin, ranks highly for offering a pure taste of the essence of the sea. A golden treasure, it’s savory and rich, with an underlying briny and sweet quality. As a luxury item, uni can feel intimidating for the home chef, especially preparing live urchins, whose spined exterior may at first seem impenetrable. (See our accompanying tips for both buying and prepping.) Further, it can be pricey and occasionally hard to find. However, this exciting ingredient has many fans and is sure to impress at a dinner party, especially paired with a few great bottles of Champagne. At Award of Excellence–winner Nisei in San Francisco, uni is almost always part of the restaurant’s 12-course tasting menu. The…

The lineup of 2021 grands crus from Domaine de la Romanée-Conti is an anomaly among the ripe expressions from recent vintages. They are pure and transparent, more like Burgundies from the 1970s and 1980s. The team at the domaine triumphed over climatic challenges to craft a range that is complex and reflects individual sites while at the same time possessing an inner strength and the ability to age. This is my takeaway after tasting the seven wines presented by co-directors Perrine Fenal and Bertrand de Villaine, hosted by longtime importer Wilson Daniels at Café Carmellini in the new Fifth Avenue Hotel in New York. Note: All scores given here are non-blind. “This vintage questions our relationship with the vines and with nature in general and nature rules,” stated Fenal at…

WINE SPECTATOR: What do you like about Healdsburg? PETE SEGHESIO: It’s just a nice, vibrant town that hasn’t gotten too big. Right now, it’s a perfect balance between local farming families, strong entrepreneurs, local merchants, local restaurateurs. It’s a wonderful blend of tourists and locals. And it’s an amazing, amazing food town and the culinary choices are wonderful. There’s still room for young chefs or young businesses to come in to Sonoma County and give it a shot. That’s totally out of reach in Napa. That’s what keeps Healdsburg fresh and growing and alive. WS: What was Healdsburg like when you were young? PS: It’s not the same town it was when I was growing up. When I was going to school at St. John’s, it was called Deadburg. There…

Among Dry Creek Valley’s many charms is that it has remained largely unchanged while the rest of the wine world has shifted in size and extravagance. The narrow valley northwest of downtown Healdsburg hasn’t undergone the commercialization of many other prominent wine regions, or even downtown Healdsburg, for that matter. As a result, there’s still a serene, pastoral, undiscovered quality about the area. Grapegrowing here dates back 140 years, making Dry Creek Valley among the longest-established viticultural areas in California. Farmers were drawn to the area after the California Gold Rush for its beautiful and fertile landscape. Early crops included hops, wheat, prunes and wine grapes. At the turn of the century, a handful of wineries were in operation, and fewer than 1,000 acres were planted, predominantly to Zinfandel, the…

BREAKING DOWN THE BELOVED THIRST-QUENCHER Using a 3-2-1 ratio, the spritz is assembled in a glass with ice. Begin by adding the aperitivo, followed by the fizzy ingredients, then stir gently. 1 PART CLUB SODA Soda water is mandatory in a spritz for its extra boost of effervescence. For a lighter drink, you can replace the wine with soda water. TOP PICKS: Fever Tree club soda fever-tree.com Q Mixers club soda qmixers.com Boylan Bottling club soda boylanbottling.com 2 PARTS APERITIVO Aperol is the classic, but there are many options with varying levels of bitterness. Three others that do the trick: Luxardo Aperitivo Bordiga Aperitivo Cappelletti Aperitivo Mazzura 3 PARTS SPARKLING WINE Red aperitivi already include sugar to balance their bitterness, so stick with a bubbly that is brut or drier.…

Life is good for Oregon winemakers these days. The heart of the state’s Pinot Noir production, the Willamette Valley, continues its reign as one of the most dynamic wine regions in the country. Pinot retains its popularity among consumers, and sales are thriving despite an increasingly challenging marketplace. The excitement is palpable across the state as major players from the world of wine bring new energy and investment to the scene. While other regions struggle with a glut of vineyards, Oregon is planting more. The news gets even better for fans of the state’s wines, since the current-release 2021 and 2022 vintages are generally outstanding across the board. Considering the headaches of the 2020 vintage, that’s a relief for winemakers and wine drinkers alike. This is my takeaway after reviewing…

Highly Recommended The issue’s most impressive wines. Includes top-scorers and wines that represent optimal purchases based on their combination of score, price and availability. 97 Le Chiuse Brunello di Montalcino 2019 $113 ITALY A racy, penetrating red, evoking cherry, strawberry, rose hip, orange peel, wild herb and mineral flavors, driven by bracing acidity and underscored by firm, linear tannins, showing excellent balance and length. Complex and energetic, this should develop well. Best from 2027 through 2043. 1,750 cases made, 300 cases imported.—B.S. 97 Castello Romitorio Brunello di Montalcino 2019 $83 ITALY Notable for its pure cherry and kirsch aromas and flavors, this red is also stylish and graceful. Rose, wild thyme and stony mineral elements come into play as this develops on the palate. Beautifully integrated, fresh and firm, this…

Thomas Keller is set to open a restaurant in Palm Beach, Fla., the town where he spent his teenage years and where he first worked in restaurant kitchens. When the place will open is still unclear, but what we do know is that it will be located at 221 Worth Ave., the former address of the locally beloved restaurant Ta-boó. And, based on documents filed by the property owners, the new venture will be a revival of Ta-boó. There are plans for interior remodeling, but, outside of repairs, no plans for any major exterior changes—including the signage. A letter of intent drafted by Dailey Janssen Architects says of the project: “The Ta-boó restaurant is a landmark on Worth Avenue serving the town and residents since the 1940s. It is deserving…

Viva Vermouth Thank you for your article on vermouth (May 31). The section “Embracing La Hora Del Vermut” was particularly enjoyable. My father-in-law served vermouth prior to Sunday and holiday meals, whether they were a barbecue, traditional Sunday sit-down or a holiday feast. Yayo was born and raised in the Valencia region of Spain. When I met him in the late 1960s at his adopted home in New Jersey, he would start Sunday meals with vermouth and ginger ale accompanied by olives, salted fish, meats and nuts. Perhaps as a nod to his beloved America he would include a maraschino cherry with each drink. I read the article with a joyous sense of the man I loved and his ability to bring forth laughter and love while enjoying La Hora…

A giant of the wine and spirits industry, Alan Dreeben died in March at the age of 80. Dreeben drove a decades-long expansion effort at U.S. wine and spirits distributor Republic National Distributing Co., (RNDC) and was a pioneer in establishing wine as part of the American lifestyle. “Alan Dreeben was a legend of the business and helped introduce generations of American consumers to wine,” said M. Shanken Communications chairman Marvin R. Shanken. Dreeben had an auspicious start in the business—joining a leadership training program at E. & J. Gallo Winery in 1966, reporting directly to Ernest Gallo. He then moved to Block Distributing; Block merged with Republic Beverage in 2005, and Dreeben, who was serving as Block’s executive vice president, became a vice chairman of the new Republic. Republic…

German Whites These refreshing white wines offer a perfect way to enjoy alfresco dining with light dishes and salads. Although Riesling is the strong suit here, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Gris add some variety. Expect fruity profiles offset by vibrant acidity in the Mosel kabinette. FRITZ HAAG Riesling Kabinett Mosel Juffer 2022 (92, $29) Compelling, racy, off-dry; apple, apricot, citrus zest, mineral, smoke DR. LOOSEN Riesling Kabinett Mosel Wehlener Sonnenuhr 2022 (90, $28) Lilac, yellow apple, persimmon, talc-fine mineral; perfumed, vibrant KUHLING-GILLOT Riesling Feinherb Rheinhessen Qvinterra 2022 (90, $28) Succulent, intriguing; apple, pear, green herbs, grass, hay, parsnip, salt, warm spices SELBACH-OSTER Riesling Kabinett Mosel Zeltinger Sonnenuhr 2021 (90, $26) Candied lime peel, peach, chamomile, pepper; vivid, energetic VILLA WOLF Riesling Dry Pfalz 2022 (89, $13) Creamy, chalky; lilac, jasmine,…

Hometowns are delicate things. When you love them, as I do with my hometown of Healdsburg, Calif., and you return, there’s an innate longing to visit all the places and faces that resonate as being “home.” Of course, time goes by, businesses and people come and go, and towns change. When I tell people I grew up in Healdsburg, they often think I spent my days rubbing elbows with acclaimed chefs and winemakers. But it wasn’t long ago that Healdsburg was a quiet, unpolished agricultural town with no plans to become a destination. The turning point came in 2001, with the opening of Hotel Healdsburg and its restaurant, Dry Creek Kitchen, from renowned chef Charlie Palmer. The southwest corner of the hotel used to be empty and the annual site…

They call it the “Aperol Spritz Effect.” Once one restaurant diner orders a spritz, its cantaloupe color catches the eye of the rest of the room and suddenly everybody is drinking one. These days, it would be hard to find a restaurant or bar that doesn’t stock Aperol or some other red aperitivo. But it wasn’t always like this. Sales of Aperol and its sibling Campari rose dramatically in the 2010s, according to Impact Databank, a sibling publication to Wine Spectator. Both owned by Campari Group, Aperol jumped from selling 9,000 cases in 2010 to 390,000 in 2022, with Campari rising from 50,000 cases to 227,000 in the same period. Much of that increase is attributable to classic Italian cocktails like the Negroni and spritz. With their introduction into new,…

Bordiga Red Aperitivo (1L, $43) Based in Torino since 1888, Bordiga has subtle floral notes of rose and juniper that play well with others. For a more bracing aperitivo, try the label’s Bitter Rosso. Try it: In a Paper Plane or a creative spritz. Luxardo Aperitivo (750ml, $22) From the famous cherry brand, Luxardo’s aperitivo has more depth than its candy-colored hue suggests, with notes of pink pepper, juniper, bitter orange peel, rhubarb and of course cherries. Try it: As a spritz go-to, or in fruitier cocktails like a Garibaldi or Jungle Bird. Contratto Bitter (750ml, $25) Made from grape brandy and dyed with vegetables, this purplish red bitter is light, fruity, and almost tropical, tasting of hibiscus and strawberries. Try it: In herbaceous cocktails like a Negroni Sbagliato. Fred Jerbis Bitter 34…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below). Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Spain, Italy, Champagne, South Africa Tim Fish California Zinfandel and Merlot, Oregon, Washington, U.S. sparkling wines Aaron Romano Argentina, Chile Kristen Bieler Rhône Valley and other France, Germany, Austria How We Do…