Indholdsfortegnelse for November 15, 2025 i Wine Spectator

In each Nov. 15 issue, our California Cabernet Sauvignon report emerges as one of the most anticipated anchors of the Wine Spectator calendar. It is the yardstick by which we measure the state of what is arguably America’s most important wine. This year, however, honesty compels us to acknowledge what the numbers make plain: 2022 was not a great year. James Molesworth, senior editor and lead taster on the wines, assigns the vintage just 84 points overall—a reminder that wine begins in the vineyard, subject to the whims of Mother Nature. As Molesworth explains in his report, a brutal heat wave around Labor Day 2022 devastated many vineyards at a critical moment of ripening. Some vintners declassified entire crops or skipped the vintage altogether, while others pushed forward under difficult…

Sonoma chef John Ash, a father of wine country cuisine, died Aug. 7 after a brief illness. He was 83. Ash was already doing farm-to-table in the 1970s, focusing on seasonal and local ingredients when most American restaurants were still cooking from cans. He also championed local wines from Sonoma and Mendocino and emphasized how food and wine should complement each other. After starting at the Courthouse Café in Santa Rosa in the 1970s, Ash opened John Ash & Co. nearby in 1980. It was an immediate hit. In his 50s, Ash focused on writing, traveling and teaching. He became the culinary director of the Fetzer’s Valley Oaks Food and Wine Center in rural Mendocino County. It was a special place, drawing food, wine and agriculture journalists from around the…

Americans’ tastes for new flavors and exciting cuisines are starting to seep into some of the most straitlaced aspects of the dining scene, including the classic chop house. While one kitchen might focus on Korean barbecue and another flies in premium beef directly from Spain, they all lean into the new standard of steak houses, with caviar bumps, silky Martinis, melt-in-your-mouth carpaccios and premium wine lists. For standout steak houses with impressive wine cellars to match, check out these six Wine Spectator Restaurant Award winners from across the country. CARNE MARE Nashville, Tenn.; New York Website: carnemare.com Best of Award of Excellence From chef Andrew Carmellini, Best of Award of Excellence winners Carne Mare in New York City’s South Street Seaport and Nashville’s “the Gulch” are reimagining the Italian American steak…

Approximately 0.01% of the vineyards in France’s Rhône Valley are planted to Muscardin, an auxiliary blending red grape, which, while recognized in the official Châteauneuf-du-Pape regulations, is often forgotten among the better-known allowed varieties such as Syrah, Grenache and Roussanne. “[Muscardin] is one of the many old varieties that fell out of favor,” says Tablas Creek partner and general manager Jason Haas. “In the 1960s and ’70s, it was making wines that were pale and low alcohol, and high in acid, in an era where the wines that were being rewarded tended to be dark and rich and luscious.” In 2019, Tablas Creek established half an acre of Muscardin in its Paso Robles vineyards, which now represents all of California’s plantings. But why plant a castaway grape like Muscardin? “It…

When the Opus One winery was being planned, Baroness Philippine de Rothschild had strong opinions on the design. She knew that it must be ideal for making wine, but also for welcoming guests. Her vision was clear when it opened. Turning off Highway 29 in the heart of Oakville, visitors are greeted by a striking view, the driveway heading straight for the Johnson Fain–designed winery, which both rises above the vineyards but also hugs them. Opus One quickly became one of the top spots to visit as Napa Valley winery tourism boomed in the 1990s. It’s still a top destination today, from the vineyards to the semicircular barrel room and tasting rooms decorated with photos of the founders. Reservations are required, available two months in advance, and guests can choose…

95 Louis M. Martini Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder 2021 $200 CALIFORNIA An expressive red, almost heady, with sassafras, violet, anise and apple wood notes bursting to the fore and quickly followed by a blitz of currant paste, plum preserves and boysenberry reduction. There’s a rigid structure underneath, but it should meld in time. Best from 2027 through 2040. 200 cases made.—J.M. 94 Bergström Pinot Noir Chehalem Mountains Silice 2023 $100 OREGON This red is keenly structured and richly detailed, with raspberry and guava flavors taking on dusky spice and forest floor accents that gather tension toward fine-grained tannins. Drink now through 2034. 1,666 cases made.—T.F. 94 Sequitur Pinot Noir Ribbon Ridge 2023 $100 OREGON Graceful and detailed, showing expressive raspberry and blueberry flavors that are highlighted by orange peel and spiced tea…

Winery executive Pat Roney is starting a new chapter. A group of investors led by Roney, former CEO and founding partner of Vintage Wine Estates (VWE), has acquired Sonoma-based Sojourn Cellars. The deal, announced Aug. 7, includes the Sojourn brand and inventory but no vineyards or winemaking facilities. The sale price was not disclosed. Roney stepped down as CEO of VWE in 2023, about a year before the troubled conglomerate of wineries filed for Chapter 11 bankruptcy in 2024. Roney had built VWE with a series of ambitious acquisitions starting in 2009. The brand portfolio grew to include more than 60 labels, and the company went public with a $600 million IPO in 2021. But the pandemic created headwinds when the company was already overextended. Sojourn was founded by Craig…

Strong, salty blue cheeses with plenty of bitterness and peppery bite are easy to find. Sorting through the many options to identify those capable of achieving delectable balance by orchestrating multiple intriguing flavors and aromas—from sweet and fruity to nutty, yeasty and chocolaty—can be more of a challenge. For starters, Europe’s ur-blue cheese, Roquefort, tends to present as a salt bomb, too strong for most palates. This was indeed the case with a couple of the Roqueforts sampled for this selection; meanwhile, our perennial go-to brand, Carles (see “Roquefort: A Miraculous Confluence,” Oct. 31, 2015), was not readily available. A few of the other iconic continental blues revisited—including Spain’s Valdeón and England’s Stilton—also turned out to be either overly salty or a bit one-dimensional. Fortunately, there were some excellent alternatives.…

West Coast This group of wines from Washington, Oregon and California offer homegrown values from three of the country’s major winegrowing states. All deliver expressive flavors at affordable prices. SPARKMAN Grenache Columbia Valley Wonderland 2022 (93, $35) Fragrant, sleek; raspberry, cherry, smoked meat, pepper, espresso ADELSHEIM Chardonnay Willamette Valley 2022 (90, $28) Apple, pear, spices; generous, appealing PAULA KORNELL Brut California NV (90, $22) Lively, pretty; apple, strawberry, spiced nuts CHARLES & CHARLES Cabernet Sauvignon Washington 2022 (88, $12) Black cherry, dark chocolate, tobacco; fruit-forward, zesty CHATEAU SOUVERAIN Sauvignon Blanc California 2024 (87, $12) Fresh, aromatic; lemongrass, lemon balm, sweetgrass, ginger, citrus, apple SOUTH BAY Pinot Grigio California Kosmic Kitty 2023 (87, $12) Lemon zest, lime juice, pomelo, yuzu, lemon verbena; juicy, fruity CHATEAU SOUVERAIN Chardonnay California 2023 (86, $12) Smooth, crisp; butterscotch, lemon drop,…

When the 1979 vintage of Opus One debuted in the consumer market in 1984, its price was $50 a bottle, a whopping sum for a California wine at the time. Needless to say, more than a few eyebrows were raised. “There were lots of feelings about it at the time [it debuted],” says Tim Mondavi, who helped make the wine from the beginning. “I know I was very excited.” Born of a joint venture between Baron Philippe de Rothschild, owner of Bordeaux first-growth Château Mouton-Rothschild, and Robert Mondavi, who founded his namesake winery in Napa Valley in 1966, Opus One helped establish Napa Valley’s reputation while creating a template for scads of joint-venture wine projects that have since followed. (See “Composing Opus One," page 40.) While the name recognition of…

Over the past 40 years, Napa Valley has been steadily divided up into smaller St. Helena sub-AVAs. Today, there are 17 of these discrete subregions within the larger Napa Valley AVA, with the first, Howell Mountain, created in 1983 and arguably the most prominent, San Pablo Bay Oakville, coming 10 years later in 1993. Recognized in 2011, Coombsville is the second youngest (Crystal Springs was established in 2024), and if you’re a Cabernet lover, it’s one that should be on your radar. Located in the southeast corner of Napa Valley, Coombsville bears the name of Nathan Coombs, who was prominent in its early history. In 1845, Coombs bought a large property from Cayetano Juarez’s Rancho Tulocay, one of the original Mexican land grants that went on to help create the…

97 Mayacamas Cabernet Sauvignon Mount Veeder 2021 $185 CALIFORNIA Hints of sweet bay leaf and chaparral offer an alluring lead in, while the core mixes red and black currant and cherry compote notes with tobacco leaf and cast iron, backed by a piercing sanguine hint. The fruit cuts a seriously sharp groove through the long, tannin- and acid-driven finish. Should age at a glacial pace. Best from 2028 through 2045. 2,110 cases made.—J.M. 95 Damilano Barolo Cannubi 2021 $97 ITALY Well-defined raspberry, cherry, menthol, iron, tar and woodsy aromas and flavors mark this intense, linear red. Juicy fruit and dense tannins square off, both heightened by the vibrant acidity. Shows fine balance, but just needs time. Best from 2029 through 2047. 2,900 cases made, 1,000 cases imported.—B.S. 95 Jadot Corton-Charlemagne Héritiers…

90 Charles & Charles Double Trouble Washington-2021 $10 WASHINGTON This red is fruit-forward and fan-friendly, offering lively flavors of raspberry, espresso and spices that zip along the finish. Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Drink now through 2030. 9,000 cases made.—T.F. 90 Grounded Wine Co. Sauvignon Blanc California 2024 $15 CALIFORNIA This sleek and juicy white features flavors of fresh lime, pomelo and peach. Details of celery salt, crunchy sea salt and lemon verbena add complexity, while mouthwatering acidity makes the flavors sing. Drink now. 28,000 cases made.—M.W. 90 Estancia Los Cardones Malbec Salta Anko 2024 $15 ARGENTINA Youthful in feel, with a well-spiced base and a generous core of creamed plum and brambly wild berry notes. A thread of slate underneath lingers nicely around plush tannins. Drink now. 6,000 cases made, 5,000 cases imported.—A.R.…

Burgundy / Bourgogne / White 90 Mongeard-Mugneret Bourgogne White 2022 $45 Honey and almond accent the peach and apple pie flavors in this rich white. Broad and supple in texture, with finely meshed acidity and oak spice notes on the finish. Harmonious. Drink now. 100 cases imported.—B.S. 89 Vincent & Sophie Morey Bourgogne White 2023 $37 Notes of lemon and briny seashore are accented with pastry and toasty oak in this fleshy white. Underlined with bright acidity and lingers with echoes of vanilla and toast. Drink now through 2028. 200 cases imported.—B.S. 89 J.J. Vincent & Fils Bourgogne White Famille Vincent 2023 $25 Apple, lemon and oyster shell flavors mark this vibrant, crunchy white. Succulent and tangy, this leaves a finish of lemon and baking spice notes. Intense and refreshing. Drink…

Wine’s taste may be bottled poetry, but its mathematics are often merciless. The U.S. government has implemented 15% tariffs on all European Union wines. Add on a 15% decline in the dollar vs. the euro since January, and French wines are potentially 30% more expensive the moment they arrive on American shores, and their importers need to pay the customs duties. French winemakers—from small wineries to large négociants, from Champagne to Roussillon—are having to calculate whether they can stay afloat with this new math. “All the planets are aligned, but in the wrong way,” says Jean-Christophe Meyrou. As general manager of Vignobles K, Meyrou oversees six Bordeaux estates, including Tour St. Christophe. Roughly 25% of sales come from the U.S. market. The stress resonates across France’s terroirs. In Burgundy’s Volnay,…

Gérard Perse, owner of Bordeaux wineries Château Pavie and Château Monbousquet, as well as the St.-Emilion luxury resort Hotel du Pavie, died July 19 at the age of 75 from cancer. Born in 1949 in a working-class neighborhood in Paris, Perse was the third of 11 children. He dropped out of school as a teenager and went to work painting houses with his father. Looking for independence, he began competing as a jockey and then a cyclist. He met his future wife, Chantal, when she awarded him the winner’s bouquet at a race he won. After marrying, Gérard and Chantal started a produce business, selling in Paris markets. They ultimately built a chain of supermarkets, eventually employing more than 1,000 people before they sold the firm. When the Perses bought…

There are fewer things more change-resistant than French wine appellation laws. It took the winegrowers in Southern Rhône’s Gigondas region more than a decade of lobbying to secure the right to produce white wines that could bear the name of their esteemed cru. Finally, the Gigondas blancs, which debuted with the 2023 vintage, are making their way to the market. Before the 2023 vintage, white wines made in Gigondas were required to be labeled as more generic Côtes du Rhône. Those of us who seek them out know how special they can be—and why the creation of the Gigondas blanc designation is so exciting: It means that more whites will be made and quality will soar even higher as vignerons lavish more care and energy on them. The Grenache-based reds…

The 2022 vintage for California Cabernet Sauvignon is a tough one. A heat dome hit just as harvest was about to begin, essentially torching Napa Valley’s Cabernet crop (the AVA dominates the category). It was a year to declassify fruit or pull the plug on production entirely. (See my full report on California Cabernet, “Too Hot to Handle,” beginning on page 62.) A few, such as Christian Moueix’s Dominus, chose the latter, more economically painful option. Coming after 2020’s wildfire-marred vintage, when many producers did skip making wines, making that choice in 2022 was extra difficult. “If 2020 hadn’t happened the way it did, I probably wouldn’t have bottled much of 2022,” says Thomas Rivers Brown, owner and winemaker at Rivers-Marie who also crafts the wines for Schrader Cellars and…

1970 Robert Mondavi and Baron Philippe de Rothschild meet and discuss a potential partnership. 1978 Mondavi travels to Château Mouton-Rothschild in Pauillac. In two days of talks, a handshake deal is made. 1979 The first vintage of Opus One is produced by blending select barrels from Robert Mondavi Winery, primarily from To Kalon Vineyard. 1980 The joint venture is announced. Mondavi sells Opus its first vineyard, 35 acres of To Kalon. 1981 A case of the first two vintages is sold at the inaugural Napa Valley Auction for a record price. 1984 The first two vintages are released, sold in wooden cases like Bordeaux. The wine is priced at $50 a bottle. 1988 Baron Philippe dies at 86. His daughter, Baroness Philippine, takes over in the partnership. 1991 After two…

YEAR SCORE 2023 | 95–98 | Florid with cassis and plum notes, this is succulent but also very tight in feel right now, as iron-accented structure runs from start to finish, giving this an ample matrix for support. There’s lots of floral lift as well, which helps to pull this along energetically. It was hard to miss the board in this vintage, but even still, hitting the bullseye is never easy. This just may surpass the levels achieved in 2005, 2013, 2016 and 2018. Tasted from barrel. Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Malbec. 2022 | 92 | Offers the vintage’s up-front profile, but with lighter body and more freshness, rather than a gush of fruit and sheer overtness, as the red currant, damson plum and cherry coulis…

Tom Farella has been “all in” since he and his father, Frank, decided to forge the family’s namesake wine label in 1991. In its early days, the Farella vineyard in Coombsville served as a fruit source for Robert Mondavi and Opus One. As the Farella family turned to wine-making, the success of its Cabernet Sauvignons helped to win approval for the Coombsville AVA in 2011, with Tom writing the application himself. Over time, the label has established a distinctive track record for decidedly old-school Cabernet with serious cellaring potential. A lot has changed along the way, but nothing has been quite the same since April, when Frank Farella died at age 95. As Robert Mondavi’s personal lawyer, Frank was a longtime player in Napa Valley, an insider’s insider who was…

The 2022 vintage in Burgundy is one of the region’s best recent years, not only in terms of quality and quantity, but also because it was successful for both white and red wines. There are a dozen wines rating a classic 96 to 98 points, plus an additional eight white Burgundies earning 95-point scores. Fresh, vibrant, balanced and intense, the top wines deliver plenty of ripe orchard fruit, citrus, floral and mineral flavors, wrapped in a youthful embrace of new oak notes of butterscotch, vanilla, pastry and baking spices. Not surprisingly though, white Burgundy lovers will have to pay more for their favorite whites from Chassagne, Puligny and Meursault, particularly among the highest-scoring wines. Among my tastings over the past year, more red Burgundies than whites cost $500 or more,…

This Buying Guide contains ratings of new releases from around the world. Complete tasting notes are provided for new releases scoring 85 or more points (on the Wine Spectator 100-point scale, explained below). Hundreds of additional reviews appear each month on our website, www.winespectator.com. Each review carries the initials of the Wine Spectator editor who blind-tasted and scored the wine and wrote the review, based on the regional specializations indicated below. Bruce Sanderson Burgundy, Piedmont, Tuscany James Molesworth California Cabernet Sauvignon and Pinot Noir, Bordeaux, Port MaryAnn Worobiec California Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, Australia, New Zealand Alison Napjus Spain, Italy, Champagne, South Africa Tim Fish California Zinfandel and Merlot, Oregon, Washington, U.S. sparkling wines Aaron Romano Argentina, Chile, California Rhônes Kristen Bieler Rhône Valley and other France, Germany, Austria How…

ARGENTINA 93 Viña Cobos Malbec Los Árboles Chañares Estate 2022 $100 Rich yet refined and polished, this weaves together a generous and smooth core of cocoa-accented plum and berries, with a briny accent underneath enlivening everything while moving to the finish around loam and mountain herb details and well-integrated tannins. Drink now through 2038. 223 cases made, 80 cases imported.—A.R. 93 Viña Cobos Malbec Mendoza Cobos 2022 $400 A bit tightly wound at the moment, this offers traces of singed vanilla bean and graphite up front that give way to a firmly structured core of blackberry, plum and cassis. Fresh acidity energizes things and reveals mountain herb and bittersweet chocolate details around firming tannins. Best from 2026 through 2036. 431 cases made, 50 cases imported.—A.R. 92 Cielo Arriba Huichaira Vineyards…

92 Margalit Cabernet Sauvignon Israel Special Reserve 2022 $143 Rich, silky and streamlined but not heavy, with great harmony between its ripe fruit, silky tannins, firming spine of graphite and singed sandalwood note. Large in scale, with the long-lasting, well-structured finish marked by spices, salt and smoke. Impressive. Drink now through 2030. 10 cases imported.—K.B. 92 Recanati Jacob Galilee-Judean Hills 2017 $225 Broad-shouldered and winey, with impressive depth to the plum, black cherry and mocha notes. Earth tones have moved in, offering tobacco leaf and dusty earth, while smoky, salty oak elements are nicely integrated. A refreshing blast of cool stone minerality and menthol brings lift to the finish, which is firmed up by cleansing acidity and polished yet persistent tannins. Cabernet Sauvignon and Carignan. Drink now through 2028. 249 cases…

CALIFORNIA Cabernet Franc 93 Detert Cabernet Franc Oakville East Block 2022 $225 Notes of blackberry and boysenberry compote are woven with accents of warm loam, licorice root and alder in this red, which ends with tugs of leather and walnut husk. Drink now through 2032. 200 cases made.—J.M. 92 Paul Hobbs Cabernet Franc Coombsville Nathan Coombs Estate 2022 $195 Offers a showy wave of boysenberry and morello cherry fruit, lined liberally with melted black licorice, plus a violet hint. Fleshy and up-front, but with more depth than most. Glossy toast adds a flattering edge to the finish. Drink now through 2029. 240 cases made.—J.M. 91 Forgotten Union Wines Cabernet Franc Oakville Vidi Vitis Old Federal Vineyard 2022 $120 Offers punchy, up-front blackberry and mulberry fruit, with a light lacing of black…

Chardonnay 93 Bergström Chardonnay Willamette Valley Sigrid 2022 $125 Graceful and harmonious, with lemon, orange zest and honeysuckle accents gliding on the vibrant finish. Drink now. 604 cases made.—T.F. 93 Kristof Chardonnay Yamhill-Carlton 2022 $45 Refined yet dynamic, with lilting flavors of apple and lemon accented by honeysuckle and spices on the steely finish. Drink now. 200 cases made.—T.F. 93 Sequitur Chardonnay Chehalem Mountains Non 2023 $75 Dynamic and expressive, showing detailed flavors of apple and apricot highlighted by lemon blossom and spice tones as this builds richness on the finish. Drink now. 95 cases made.—T.F. 93 Sequitur Chardonnay Ribbon Ridge 2023 $75 Charming, sleek and refined, with expressive accents of lemon, honeysuckle and orange peel that sail on the lush finish. Drink now. 100 cases made.—T.F. 92 Ayoub Chardonnay Dundee…

Actor, director and executive producer Regina King has been a major player in film and television for four decades, including her roles in Ray, Jerry Maguire and as Sharon Rivers in If Beale Street Could Talk, which won her the 2019 Academy Award for Best Supporting Actress. In her latest film, she plays a New York City cop in director Darren Aronofsky’s Caught Stealing. Now she’s adding vintner to her resume as she launches her wine label, MianU, beginning with an orange wine sourced from California’s Mendocino County. Pronounced “me and you,” it represents making a connection through shared experiences, she says. It’s also a tribute to King’s son, Ian Desduné, who she says knew better than anyone how to share experiences that made life’s ordinary moments extraordinary. “There’s no…