Indholdsfortegnelse for May 2020 i Woolworths TASTE

IF YOU WERE WONDERING whether you’d see a May issue of TASTE, so were we. Two weeks before writing this we were all still in the office eating Abi’s chocolate Swiss roll cake for the third time and discussing the WFH “trial”. We left the office that Tuesday and, effectively, didn’t go back. My hope, of course, is that by the time you read this, the lockdown will have been lifted, the curve flattened and some semblance of normality will be starting to return. But, at the risk of sounding like Princess Leia, that is not my only hope. What I really hope is that nothing will ever be quite the same. “ Relationships were tested, much wine was drunk and everyone made banana bread” What if the Covid-19 virus…

THE ULTIMATE MOTHER'S DAY MENU Whether you’re cooking for your mom, your partner, or the mother figure in your life, we’ve got the menu for you. Sign up to our newsletter to get the menu delivered to your inbox. JOIN THE CLUB AND WIN A R500 WOOLIES VOUCHER Get recipe advice, share your cooking triumphs and chat to fellow foodies in the TASTE Recipe Club on Facebook. Post a photo of your version of a TASTE recipe there, and you could win a R500 Woolies gift card! Winners are announced on the feedback page in every issue. Search “TASTE Recipe Club” on Facebook, and request to join the group. SOUP'S UP! The first chilly days of winter call for soup, soup and more soup! Keep things interesting with our collection…

@chefjamesdiack “I love my staff as my family and my shops like home and my customers like best friends and I am left with no choice but to protect all three … How we power through this I don’t know yet, but we will. I am so sad for it all but we will be back stronger than ever.” @alicelouisewaters “Dear Family of Chez Panisse, although the restaurant may be closed, its values are very much alive. We are more committed than ever to our employees and to the farmers and purveyors who care about the land and the future of food. During the difficult days ahead, we plan to start selling and delivering produce from the small farms and gardens that supply us. And, inspired by the example of…

The book is dedicated to your mother. What was she like? My mother, Catherine, was the epitome of grace. She was a reflection of love and single-handedly raised five of us and made sure we all had professions. She loved home-made bread, fondly called ujeqe in isiZulu, with bean curry. When I miss her, I cook one of her favourites, roast leg of lamb twisted with Granny Smith apples and roast vegetables. Which three ingredients couldn’t you live without? Garlic, leaf masala, and plain yoghurt. I use them for a good old curry. African dishes can be hard to find in city restaurants. What is your favourite traditional South African dish? That is such a pity. Even if one opens, it never lasts! My all-time fave is tripe (mogodu) with…

1 Pierre Jourdan Tranquille Blush Sparkling 2019 Tranquille is a popular rosé blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay perfect for breakfast, lunch and sundowners. The newer sparkling version has bursts of bubbles that retain the red berry fruit flavours, adding a zing that makes every celebration memorable. Enjoy it with platters of fresh fruit, garden salad, smoked salmon and crusty bread. R99.99 2 Iona Ten Barrel Chardonnay 2018 This wine is made using grapes from the coolest vineyard in South Africa. Iona’s owner Andrew Gunn says you can expect lime and lemon undertones, oyster shell minerality, and a hint of almonds and biscuit brioche. A perfect match for steamed asparagus drizzled with Hollandaise. R265.99 3 Warwick Cape Lady Rosé 2019 Norma Ratcliffe – founder and first winemaker of Warwick wines,…

When I was about five years old my cousins, who were 10 years older, taught me the 1966 hit by the husky-voiced singer Susan Christie. “I don’t like shoes that pinch my toes or people that squirt me with a garden hose, but ooooh I love onions,” I would sing. And they and my ma and tannie would laugh and tell me I was adorable. I liked the attention a lot more than I liked the song. Or onions, for that matter. “Onions, onions la-la-la…”. I thought it was a silly song because onions burned your eyes and mouth, and it was incomprehensible that anyone could like them enough to sing about them. Fast-forward 45 years and I'm singing about pinched toes and loving onions every time I scrunch up…

“ This will keep in the fridge for a week in an airtight container” “ This is a perfect ‘coffee’ cake. Use white sesame seeds if you don’t have black ” “ Use toasted or plain coconut for the icing, or cream cheese and grated pineapple ” RASPBERRY-AND-RICOTTA PUDDING CAKE “This cake has a gooey, pudding-like texture and can be served warm or cold with vanilla ice cream or double-thick cream. It’ll keep for a week in the fridge in an airtight container.” Serves 8 to 10 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 15 minutes Baking: 1 hour, 25 minutes self-raising flour 175 g almond flour 100 g caster sugar 220 g full-cream milk ¼ cup unsalted butter 125 g, melted and cooled vanilla paste 2 t free-range eggs 2 smooth ricotta…

“ Roasting the squash in the skin adds caramelised flavour ” BEETROOT SOUP WITH AVOCADO TOAST Cook’s tip: “Using Woolies’ marinated beetroot saves time and boosts flavour. And using store-bought tahini is perfectly acceptable.” Serves 4 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 45 minutes olive oil 2 T large red onion 1, chopped garlic 3 cloves, crushed red chilli 1, seeded large sweet potatoes 2, peeled and finely diced Woolworths cooked beetroot in vinaigrette 2 x 240 g tubs Woolworths organic beef stock 1 x 500 ml carton Woolworths miso paste 1 T sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Woolworths buckwheat-and-cranberry sprinkle 40 g, for serving plain yoghurt, for serving avocado on toast, for serving For the black sesame tahini: black sesame seeds 70 g vegetable…

CREMORA TART “In the 1980s, there was a TV ad doing the rounds in which a highly strung man in a dressing gown was making a cup of coffee in the middle of the night. In a misplaced Brooklyn accent, he narrates his way through the process, until he can’t find the Cremora (a powdered, non-dairy coffee creamer). ‘Honey, there’s no Cremora in the refrigerator!’ he cries in the direction of the other room, to which his sleep-deprived wife replies, ‘It’s not inside, it’s on top!’ Echoing her words, he repeats, ‘It’s not inside its onnnnn … top.’ In those brief 30 seconds, a fairly successful dairy substitute was transformed into a household brand – and soon, a new fridge tart was born. To the Cremora tart virgin, the idea…

BANOFFEE CUSTARD PIE “There is banoffee pie as it is – an overtly sweet and slippery union of banana and caramel. And then there is banoffee pie as it should be – where the caramel infuses a baked custard filling and is then topped with bananas. This kind of pie makes you feel like everything is going to be okay in the world.” Makes one 24 cm pie to serve 8 to 12 A LITTLE EFFORT GREAT VALUE Keeps: Up to 2 days, chilled Takes: If the crust has been blind baked, then 50 minutes to make and bake. Chill for a minimum of 2 hours before finishing – overnight is great. sweet butter crust 1 batch (see p 102), rolled into a 24 cm tart tin and blind baked…

“My gran’s old-school banana bread recipe – it’s one of the first things I learned to bake and it warms my heart to be able to serve it to my loved ones.” – Jeanne Calitz “Hot chocolate sauce: half a cup of cocoa, 1 cup water, 2 cups sugar, boiled together. So sticky and delicious on ice cream!” – Katharine Pope “Potato bake. My husband Terry makes it better than I do! Layers of very thinly sliced peeled potatoes, cream, garlic and salt. And sometimes a little truffle oil and grated Parmesan.” – Abigail Donnelly “My mom’s potatoes Romanoff – grated parboiled potatoes mixed with sour cream, cheese and spring onions, sprinkled with more cheese and paprika, then baked!” – Kelly Cloete “Sweetcorn and pumpkin fritters, which my mom taught…

“ We’ll all come together in the house to share a casual meal made with ingredients I always have on hand ” Now, more than ever, retreating from the world to spend precious time with her family is important to TASTE food director Abigail Donnelly. She shares her home in Glencairn, Cape Town, with husband Terry and their two teenage sons, Matthew (13) and Jack (18). Happily, Terry’s dad Michael now lives not far down the road in Simon’s Town. A photographer and videographer, Michael’s return to South Africa 18 months ago, after having lived in New York for 25 years, has been a great gift to the family – and an opportunity for them all to share their love of cooking at regular family meals. Get-togethers, either at Michael’s…

OAT MILK The Guardian crowned oat milk the humble winner of the plant-based milks when it comes to sustainability. But aside from its low environmental impact, it’s a delicious, sweet option. SOYA MILK The winner in the protein department, soya milk can be substituted for cow’s milk in most instances. If you’re adding it to stews or curries, be aware that it can curdle if boiled. SEED MILKS Hemp seeds make a slightly thicker milk, and have a flavour similar to almond milk. Sesame seeds, sunflower seeds, and even pumpkin seeds, can also be used to make milk. RICE MILK A thin, slightly watery milk, rice milk is nevertheless a good choice if you’re looking for something with a neutral flavour. ALMOND MILK This alternative milk is great for baking.…

Visit foodflowza.com for more info and sponsor a bag at webtickets.co.za. Every four bags sponsored will enter you into a raffle to win a meal at one of their fine-dining restaurant partners. FOODFORWARD SA FoodForward SA has launched a R50 million appeal to provide food to facilities and centres for the aged, orphans and vulnerable children, as well as the homeless and people living with HIV/AIDS. To donate money or nonperishable groceries and toiletries, visit foodforwardsa.org. IKAMVA LABANTU To help provide food and hygiene parcels to over 1 000 senior citizens and vulnerable children, visit ikamva.org.za. PENINSULA SCHOOL FEEDING ASSOCIATION This organisation aims to reduce hunger and enhance children’s ability to learn at primary, secondary and special needs schools, as well as orphaned and vulnerable children centres, early childhood development…

Let me confess. I live daily with the fear that, like Hector in Alan Bennett’s The History Boys, I am “not in the swim”. At the great dinner party of life, I’m on the children’s table, a mere spectator of the grown-up fun. This is because, deep breath, I don’t have a favourite gin. Yup, I know. If I were asked at a bar which gin I would like with my tonic, I would only stammer. But that’s only the beginning. The truth is I don’t have a favourite gin, because I hate ALL gin. As far as I’m concerned having a favourite gin would be like choosing a favourite war criminal, only with a greater impact on my life. It’s worse even than the time I admitted to not…

1 For relaxed fine dining: DAHLIA ON REGENT Young chef Damian Dafel (top left) cut his teeth at top restaurants including La Colombe, Foxcroft and La Tête before opening his own shop, where he is serving modern, flavour-packed cuisine with a great deal of care and a focus on excellent local produce. “Fish and chips” is no humble fillet here, expect it to come with golden pommes Anna, a corn velouté and a pea purée. The octopus “popcorn” consists of battered octopus bites and is served with a side of spicy kimchi and a miso dressing, while creamed spinach gets a new lease on life with the addition of bonito flakes and a dressing made with tahini, lemon juice, hoisin sauce and black sesame. You’ll never want to eat it…

“This is slightly adapted from the amazing recipe from Serious Eats (they are right about the fish sauce). While the onions are cooking, don’t be impatient. You're making what my friend Karen calls ‘well-loved onions’. You want them caramelised, dark golden brown and deliciously sweet. NEVER burnt. You could use traditional Gruyère, but I like it really cheesy so use less expensive mature Cheddar instead.” Serves 6 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 2½ hours butter 150 g mixed onions 1.8 kg, finely sliced (I used 8 medium sweet onions, 2 large red onions and 2 large brown onions) sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste dry sherry ½ cup thyme 6 sprigs bay leaf 1 good chicken stock 2 litres (who has time for home-made? I…

Get the most from your bowl of tricks Always sift the flour to incorporate as much air as possible. This ensures a light and moist texture. Using sour cream, buttermilk or yoghurt results in a softer texture. Use a bundt or ring cake tin – the design means that more of the mixture touches the surface of the pan than in a round tin, helping to provide faster and more even heat distribution during cooking and ensuring a moister crumb. Place a piece of baking paper under your bowl so you can clean up quickly. Fold up the paper afterwards and keep it for using again.…

Are your soups a little on the bland side? Here’s how to kick them up a notch A good stock is the base of all soups. Make your own and freeze it, or use a good-quality readymade one. Vegetables such as potatoes, carrots, beetroot, turnips, parsnips and pumpkin bulk up a soup and give it body and substance. Blend them once cooked for a smooth soup, or leave them a little chunky if you prefer some texture. Toppings add flavour and texture and can transform a simple soup into something great. Never underestimate the power of a simple chilli oil, pesto, crunchy sprinkle, spiced nuts or croutons. Yoghurt or coconut cream cut through creaminess or add richness, while grated cheese is the OG addition to a classic tomato soup. When…

“ To make this dish vegan, make the mash with olive oil instead of butter” THREE-CHEESE CABBAGE BAKE Cook’s tip: “Use up any cheese you have in the fridge for this. And use Woolworths readymade cheese sauce if you don’t have time to make it from scratch.” Serves 4 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 50 minutes baby cabbages 2, quartered olive oil 2 T sea salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste shallots 2, thinly sliced butter 1 T garlic 3 cloves, finely chopped thyme 3 sprigs cream 1½ cups Gruyère 50 g, finely grated Woolworths Botham’s Cremezola 100 g, broken into pieces Parmesan 50 g, finely grated 1 Preheat the oven to 180°C. Place the cabbage in an ovenproof pan or baking tray. Drizzle with 1…

Australian baking entrepreneur Natalie Paull spent her formative years working with the likes of Maggie Beer before opening the Beatrix Bakes (beatrixbakes.com) shop in Melbourne in 2011. Why the name? “It’s a play on the suffix ‘-trix’, which was once used to form words like aviatrix (female aviator). I was a female beater and thus beat(e)rix. Beatrix, in Latin, means bringer of joy. And that is, simply, what cake should be,” she explains. Natalie shares 70 of her most mouthwatering recipes for tarts, cakes, pies and fillings in her small-batch baking book Beatrix Bakes (Hardie Grant, R450, available at good book stores). To stand a chance to win a copy, visit taste.co.za.…

MONDAY’S MEAT-FREE REBOOT INDIAN-STYLE BEAN SALAD “Massaging salt and lime juice into red onions reduces the harsh raw onion flavour and is similar to making a quick pickle.” Serves 4 EASY GREAT VALUE Preparation: 25 minutes Cooking: 5 minutes For the dressing, blend: coriander seeds 1 t, toasted and ground cumin seeds 1 t, toasted and ground green chillies 2, chopped mint 60 g, chopped fresh coriander 60 g limes 2, zested and juiced plain yoghurt 4 T canola oil 1/3 cup sea salt, to taste Woolworths three-bean mix 1 x 400 g can, drained and rinsed lime 1, juiced sea salt, to taste red onion 1, thinly sliced Woolworths exotic tomatoes 350 g, chopped celery 2 sticks, thinly sliced wraps, toasted, for serving 1 Toss half of the dressing…

– Jacoba du Plooy Move over, ordinary float! My father would have been immensely pleased if I could have served him your ginger beer float (TASTE September 2019, p 42). Home-made ginger beer is the drink that conjures up days gone by when harvest was the time when family members and neighbours went into the wheat fields to lend a helping hand. I am old enough to remember the party atmosphere – ginger beer was great during the warm weather to quench the thirst and a norm in most households during my childhood. Thank you for bringing back those magnificent memories. We’re so pleased to have evoked so many happy memories, Jacoba! You win a R500 Woolworths gift card. SUBSCRIBE TO TASTETUBE! Beans aren’t just for toast. Subscribe to our…

OPTIMISE YOUR RECEPTACLE A vase with a narrow opening will help your blooms hold together (great if you’ve only got a few flowers), while a vase with a wide opening will spread them out more. CHOP STICKS An asymmetrical look is popular. Cut stalks to differing lengths to create a hand-picked look. REFLEX YOUR ROSES Reflexing is a florist’s trick for making roses look more romantic – and take up more space in an arrangement. It works best on roses that are a couple of days old, and have softer petals. To do it, remove the greenery beneath the outer petals. Take hold of an outer petal between thumb and forefinger and gently fold it backwards. Continue doing this with the outer petals, until you have a full, voluminous-looking bloom.…

Don’t scoff, it is totally possible – just a little messy and requires a powerful food processor. Here’s how to do it rolled oats 60 g (or 120 g nuts) water 4 cups salt a pinch vanilla pod 1, seeded (optional) whole pitted date 1 (optional) 1 Place the ingredients into a high-speed blender and blend for about 45 seconds. For oat milk, don’t blend for longer, or it will become slimy. 2 Strain the mixture through a fine-mesh strainer. For oat milk, you’ll need to strain more carefully. (You can even use a clean T-shirt or muslin). Do not squeeze the oats, as this will also produce a slimy texture. If residue remains, strain it a second time. 3 Pour into a sealable container and store in the fridge…

The seeds of the mustard plant can make magic. Just a smear of mustard can enliven any sandwich and make hot dogs feel gourmet. But how else to use up the languishing jar in your fridge? Try these for size Chicken braised in mustard and milk Tired of plain-old roast chicken? Add milk to your roasting pan, along with Dijon mustard, chicken stock, rosemary and lemon. Roast as usual and you’ll end up with a wonderful sauce to accompany your roast. Mustardy toasted cheese The secret to a next-level cheese toastie? A combo of mayo and mustard. Top with the cheese of your choice, ham or prosciutto, then fry in a pan or bake in the oven. Mustardy baked fish Stir a teaspoon of Dijon mustard into crème fraîche and…

THE CHEF David Higgs Marble and Saint restaurants The best wine moment of my life was when I went to Sweden to cook for Per Gessle of Roxette, known for having the biggest private wine collection in the country. On the last night of the trip, he invited me to his house, where a highlight of the evening was sitting next to Björn Borg. At about 2 am, we opened a bottle of Château Haut-Brion ’81 and played foosball. I have a personal wine collection, which I don’t keep anywhere near me! Wine, for me, is like art – yes, I must like the wine I collect, but it’s also about story and memory. One of my favourites is a Château Figeac – I visited the estate in Bordeaux and…

KLEINSKY’S If you can’t get to New York, get to the new location of this neighbourhood deli. The latke benedict is crispy potato heaven, while the bagels and various schmears will have you spoilt for choice. The blintzes go quickly, so make sure you get yours. 92 Regent Road, kleinskys.co.za HE SHENG Those in the know declare this to be the home of the best dumplings in Cape Town, and we agree. Hot tip: ask for the soup dumplings – they're not on the menu. 269 Main Road, hesheng.co.za LA MOUETTE Chef Henry Vigar continues to produce plates of refined flavour at this low-key, fine-dining favourite. The croquettes are famous for a reason, and their value-packed set menus have kept diners returning since 2010. 78 Regent Road, lamouetterestaurant.co.za…

We were standing waiting to pay in the supermarket. My daughter, then about three, had been keeping up a slow whine for some time already – apparently, she desired to eat a vienna sausage right at that very instant. See, there are proper mothers, who wouldn’t dream of feeding their children vienna sausages, and then there are exhausted mothers, who just think, ah, what the hell – what’s a bit of compacted offal compared to five minutes’ respite? I belong to the latter category, albeit slightly complicated by a strong desire to simultaneously maintain the moral high ground in any given circumstance. So although I fully intended to deliver on the vienna, the vienna itself was going to be delivered in a healthy wholewheat bun with good-quality butter, freshly sliced…

WE’RE IN THE MIDDLE of the shoot with Woolworths product developer Zayaan Nordien’s family when TASTE photographer Jan Ras takes a break to download and review the images with food director Abigail Donnelly. Little Leilah (6), oblivious to the fact that Jan is no longer clicking away, is still happily tucking into her mom’s mince curry. “Can I have some fish, Mommy?” she asks staring resolutely at the haddock chowder. She’s definitely not putting on a show for the camera. “She has a healthier appetite than the rest of us,” laughs Zayaan, who develops family meals for Woolies (the soups, pies, quiches and family-sized meals you pop into your shopping basket are among the many food products created by Zayaan and her team). Her youngest son, Ridha (4), wriggles off…

Woolies’ stocks and stock concentrates are made from the best quality ingredients. They’ll add body and depth to soups and stews BEEF BONE BROTH is made using free-range beef bones that are slow-cooked for 12 hours. R39.99 for 125 ml ORGANIC LIQUID CHICKEN STOCK is rich and flavourful, and made by cooking organic free-range chicken meat and bones with celery, carrots and onions. Also available in beef and vegetable. R44.99 for 500 ml DEMI-GLACÉ CONCENTRATE BEEF STOCK is intensely flavoured and made from scratch using roasted beef bones and vegetables. R43.99 for 8 x 25 g sachets LIQUID STOCK CONCENTRATE STICK PACKS contain eight handy sachets that can be diluted as you need them. Also available in mushroom, beef, chicken and fish. R43.99 for 8 x 25 g sachets…

Miso is soya bean paste that is fermented for anything from a few weeks to a few years. In Japan, there are over 1 000 varieties, but the most common ones found elsewhere in the world are simply light or dark miso. What do you do with it? Use it in soups, batters, sauces and dressings to add an instant umami hit of saltiness. It’s ready to use straight from the container and doesn’t need any further preparation. Keep it tightly sealed in the fridge and it will keep for up to a year. R71.99 for 375 g…

THE AREA NORTH OF UMHLANGA IS A MODERN AFRICAN FRONTIER. A boomtown of upmarket gated housing estates and big-brand shiny consumer retail spaces set among the sugar cane and lush sub-tropical foliage. While central (old) Durban changes hands like a banknote and struggles lackadaisically against the nickname “Dirtbin”, the north rises like a shiny pulsing beacon of opportunity, leisure and luxury. Now I have a theory to explain Durban’s moneyed migration north. The whole idea of the North Coast is premised on it being a clean break from the past, much like the Sandton CBD or the West Coast of Cape Town. None of this existed during apartheid. The buildings and spaces are devoid of historical baggage and context, albeit still shaped by the ghost hand of our underlying structural…