This is what Thor-Erik had meant. ‘When you sail past Cape Lindesnes, you go from one world to another,’ he had said when we had moored alongside his boat in Farsund. At the time I hadn’t quite believed him, but now I think differently. We have just rounded the cape, and the contrast with the conditions we left behind is breathtaking. West of Cape Lindesnes, the world seemed grey, hostile, downright threatening. Now, east of the cape, two of my children and I were sailing along with ease, aboard Youkali, a Breehorn 37, followed by large but gentle and friendly seas. On the other, the weather side, of the cape, we were crashing through steep, aggressive waves that seemed to be churned up by the concentrated malice of all the…