Friday evening, 21 February, 2025, and we are anchored inside a reef lagoon in a remote part of Raja Ampat, West Papua, Indonesia. The entrance to the lagoon is narrow, and uncharted. It’s the type of approach that needs daylight and two people to navigate: one on the bow directing the course, the other steering.
This isn’t new to us. Elliot and I have been living aboard our 1985 Mason 48, Fortaleza, for four years and in that time we’ve wiggled our way in and out of some tight spots. Through trial, and a couple of unmentionable errors that have left us grateful Fortaleza is steel hulled, we’ve developed our own reef navigation signals to communicate from the bow to the cockpit, as well as a capacity to forgive each…