Wilderness December 2024

If you turn to page 56 you will see a photograph of a scene that most people don't experience on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. The author of the story, Kathy Ombler, is alone at Emerald Lakes. Most photos of this scene invariably include dozens of other walkers – often a long line of trampers making their way past the lakes and on to the Ketetahi end of the track. But it's a view more people might get the chance to experience in future. There is already a booking system to walk the track, and it is compulsory to book if you're using a transport operator to get to and from the track, as 75 per cent of walkers do. But while it's currently not possible to see how many others…

A WORD WORTH PRESERVING I love tramping as an activity and I also love the word ‘tramping’: it's a word unique to New Zealand. During the past decade or so, the words ‘hiking’ and ‘trekking’ have crept into the New Zealand vernacular. I have noticed retailers and articles about tramping now often just use the word hiking. Even the Department of Conservation and Wilderness magazine regularly use hiking over tramping. I realise most non-New Zealanders will be familiar with hiking and trekking, and may not know what tramping refers to. But it will be a shame if the word tramping is used less – or even disappears from everyday use in Aotearoa. For me, when I do a long tramp in the wilds of Te Wahipounamu South Westland or Fiordland,…

Get your photo published here to receive a meal from Real Meals worth $17. Last Weekend submission criteria can be found at wildernessmag.co.nz. Learn more about Real Meals at www.realmeals.co.nz.…

ICONIC HUTS TO BE RESTORED This summer 30 huts will be restored as part of a five-year collaboration between Fletcher Building and the Back Country Trust. Restoration will include minor repairs as well as recladding and window replacements. The chosen huts have already received funding support from DOC for their renovation and the agreement will see Fletcher Building provide building materials at a reduced cost as well as encourage its staff to volunteer on BCT projects. “With roughly 400,000 people each year depending on backcountry huts, maintaining them is essential to ensure they remain reliable and welcoming resting spots,” said BCT national operations manager Rob Brown. “We'd love to see more sponsors like Fletcher Building come on board to make an even bigger impact in protecting New Zealand's backcountry treasures,”…

“CURIOUS KĀKĀ On a visit to Kapiti Island I had a kākā sit on my back and very efficiently open the zip of my backpack. It's a very cool bird. – Kathrine Baynton “I CAN DO IT Climbing Mt Kilimanjaro in June of this year. It was challenging, rewarding, magical. I was so anxious about my fitness, altitude sickness and whether I could do it. But I did and it taught me to believe in myself and that we can do hard things. – Louise Groarke “TIDAL DIFFERENCE Walking Queen Charlotte Track I found a campsite and sat out on a tree branch that hung over the water. It was high tide and a large stingray swam directly beneath me. It was very memorable because at low tide there were only rocks…

SPENDING TWO WEEKS traversing the Tararua Range was a chance to unpack how gender affects the dynamics of a trip, and to redefine tramping on our own terms. Our adventure consisted of thousands of metres of elevation, wind we could barely stand up in and almost incessant torrential rain. Yet somehow, this was one of the best tramps of our lives. What made it so incredible? The magic of female friendship. 1. Femininity vs functionality Because we were two women on our own, we felt free to express our femininity without worrying that this might undermine anyone else's perception of our abilities. In the past we have felt a need to suppress our personalities and express ourselves in ways that others would take seriously. This time we wore bright clothes,…