Innehållsförteckning för December 2024 från Wilderness

If you turn to page 56 you will see a photograph of a scene that most people don't experience on the Tongariro Alpine Crossing. The author of the story, Kathy Ombler, is alone at Emerald Lakes. Most photos of this scene invariably include dozens of other walkers – often a long line of trampers making their way past the lakes and on to the Ketetahi end of the track. But it's a view more people might get the chance to experience in future. There is already a booking system to walk the track, and it is compulsory to book if you're using a transport operator to get to and from the track, as 75 per cent of walkers do. But while it's currently not possible to see how many others…

THE TRACK starts at the northern end of Waihī Beach, past the surf club. At high tide your feet may get wet on the way to the trackhead. The trail can get muddy after significant rainfall and the track is not as well maintained after Orokawa Bay. Take care in exposed places. Walk up along the cliffs towards Rapatiotio Point. At the top a 2min side track offers views back to the beach and out towards Tuhua Mayor Island. Follow the coastline northwards above Shark Bay and cross Oukori Stream before climbing to a bench with spectacular views of Mt Maunganui. From here the track descends through a grove of nīkau palm to Orokawa Bay. On the way down are towering pōhutukawa, a toilet and the opportunity to watch surfers…

A WORD WORTH PRESERVING I love tramping as an activity and I also love the word ‘tramping’: it's a word unique to New Zealand. During the past decade or so, the words ‘hiking’ and ‘trekking’ have crept into the New Zealand vernacular. I have noticed retailers and articles about tramping now often just use the word hiking. Even the Department of Conservation and Wilderness magazine regularly use hiking over tramping. I realise most non-New Zealanders will be familiar with hiking and trekking, and may not know what tramping refers to. But it will be a shame if the word tramping is used less – or even disappears from everyday use in Aotearoa. For me, when I do a long tramp in the wilds of Te Wahipounamu South Westland or Fiordland,…

“CURIOUS KĀKĀ On a visit to Kapiti Island I had a kākā sit on my back and very efficiently open the zip of my backpack. It's a very cool bird. – Kathrine Baynton “I CAN DO IT Climbing Mt Kilimanjaro in June of this year. It was challenging, rewarding, magical. I was so anxious about my fitness, altitude sickness and whether I could do it. But I did and it taught me to believe in myself and that we can do hard things. – Louise Groarke “TIDAL DIFFERENCE Walking Queen Charlotte Track I found a campsite and sat out on a tree branch that hung over the water. It was high tide and a large stingray swam directly beneath me. It was very memorable because at low tide there were only rocks…

WAYPOINTS OTUIHAU WHANGĀREI FALLS Northland Just 20 minutes from the city centre, Otuihau Whangārei Falls is a place where you could spend a couple of hours. The Hatea River pours over a 26m wall into a pristine pool. This classic curtain waterfall is more dramatic after heavy rain and is a popular swimming and picnicking spot. The main walkway leads to a viewing platform then skirts the canyon wall before dropping to the valley floor. From there a swing bridge leads to an easy climb along the far wall, back to the start of the loop. The hinterland of Whangārei is replete with waterfalls, including Paranui and Raumaunga falls – a great ‘plan B’ if you are passing through Northland during poor weather. Grade Easy Time 20min loop Distance 1km…

EVEN SEASONED trampers have been known to let out a gasp of wonder after cresting a ridge and seeing what lies beyond. The views on this walk could easily evoke such a reaction. Few will fail to be impressed by the cliffs and tarns to the south and east of Mt Shrimpton, part of the McKerrow Range. The trailhead is on SH6 at Makarora, north of Lake Wānaka and south of Haast Pass. The initial 3km climb through lush forest on the Mt Shrimpton Track is attractive, and when emerging above the treeline there are impressive views west over the Makarora Valley and the numerous peaks in Mt Aspiring National Park. Coming this far is already a satisfying walk, but there are bigger prizes awaiting at the ridge at roughly…

STOCKING STUFFERS TŪĪ BALMS EXTREME BUG SPRAY $21.50 This effective and long lasting spray safely repels mosquitoes, sandflies and other biting insects for up to six hours. www.tuibalms.co.nz WEST COASTERS FROM $30 Old maps upcycled into bespoke coasters and placemats are the ideal gift for map lovers and outdoor enthusiasts. Ready-made or custom-made sets. www.westcoasters.co.nz. FOZZILS SNAPFOLD BOWLZ $32.50 The world's lightest pack flat dinnerware. Convenient to use, clean, and carry. Save space and weight, fold and store flat. www.cyclewerks.co.nz VICTORINOX CLASSIC COLOUR SMASHED AVOCADO $44.99 Splash everyday tasks with colour. Each Classic knife is packed with useful tools, including scissors, a toothpick, and tweezers. Choose from 30 colours. 21g. www.ampro.co.nz CHANTAL ORGANICS COUSCOUS & VEG EASY BOWLS $4.99 These lightweight single-serve meals can be enjoyed as a light lunch,…

Get your photo published here to receive a meal from Real Meals worth $17. Last Weekend submission criteria can be found at wildernessmag.co.nz. Learn more about Real Meals at www.realmeals.co.nz.…

WILD TRIPS MT FISHTAIL (1641m) stands between Mt Royal to the east and Mt Richmond to the west. Fishtail Hut, a humble four-bunker, is perched above the bushline under the nose of the summit in a true alpine environment. It's just 8km to the hut but it takes about five hours – an indication of the steepness and difficulty of the trail. A parking area with a toilet indicates where trampers can begin the walk, though those with a 4WD can ford Pine Valley Stream and continue to Mill Flat Campsite. It is an easy, scenic ramble to Mill Flat from the first car park, with swimming holes below and a possible short detour to a waterfall. Mt Fishtail can be seen early on, looking imposing. Cross the swingbridge to…

HERE'S A FUN OVERNIGHTER that goes through Mokai Station, on the eastern side of the Ruahine Range, onto the top of the Mōkai Pātea Range and down into the Maropea River Valley. It loops past two gorgeous huts and heads back onto the range before dropping again to the road end. Access to Mokai Station, in the Rangitikei River Valley east of Taihape, was closed by the landowner for five years, but has now been restored. A paper road, marked by white wooden posts, goes through stock paddocks as it climbs 750m to the top of the Mōkai Pātea Range. This is still on private land. The view from the top is down on the forested Maropea Valley to the east. Turn south to follow the 4WD track along the…

Quentin Duthie is a Greater Wellington Regional Councillor, former FMC vice-president, local pest trapper and closet hut-bagger. He started tramping 25 years ago and his trips range from fast and light solo off-track adventures in summer to multi-day family tramps on well-trodden paths and the occasional foray into big country. “I avoid buying new gear, choosing to make do with what I have,” he says. “Old gear reminds me of past trips, so I find it hard to let it go. But talking to Wilderness has made me think it might be time for some upgrades!” The gear pictured is what he took on a four-day tramp into the Waitaha River, County Stream and Smyth Range earlier this year: “No expensive, fashionable, super-light or high-tech stuff here, but it works…

How did this book come about? There have been several great books on Kahurangi, from social histories to tramping guides. But nobody had taken a walk through the place and described how it works ecologically, and the complex geological processes that caused all this wonderful biodiversity to end up in this part of the South Island. In Kahurangi, I take readers for a wander through these special wild places and talk about the natural processes and connections at play. Was it challenging to write? No, it wasn't. It was challenging to understand the concepts and the right questions to ask, but I was fortunate that many wonderful scientists and researchers helped me understand the processes by which the land itself came to be here. What is your most memorable experience…