Indholdsfortegnelse for Fall 2016 i GQ Style

Whenever people ask me where I think fashion is headed, I quote one of my favorite sardonic cultural critics, Father John Misty. Late last year, indie’s funniest rocker told New York magazine that he hates “basic-ass dude” clothes. “Everyone kind of looks like a graphic designer,” he said. “It’s predicated on not fucking up, as opposed to the emphasis really being on expression.” (To see how Mr. Misty himself dresses, go to page 156.) I read that quote just before we announced this new magazine, and the implicit sartorial challenge in it—do you want to express yourself or focus on not fucking up?—has never left my head. Two other things that haven’t left my head are the classic shot of Richard Gere blazing a cigarette on the cover of GQ…

Five years ago, when the online #menswear movement hit a critical mass, Boglioli was known mostly to industry insiders, magazine editors, and sharpas-hell Milanese men who all coveted the label’s innovative “soft” jackets: unstructured, unlined, and garment-washed to look and feel like you’ve been living in them for years. Basically, Boglioli was the exact opposite of the starched, stiff aesthetic you see on trading floors and in law offices, and the small buys at specialty retailers in the States sold through faster than gelato melts in August. Then, last year, Boglioli CEO Giovanni Mannucci tapped younggun designer Davide Marello— who clocked nine years as head of tailored clothing at Gucci—to be its first-ever creative director. An inaugural runway show was staged, and Boglioli came out looking like an all-new brand.…

Like Drake’s Manager Oliver El-Khatib Ask Oliver El-Khatib—the mastermind behind Drake’s catchall branding entity, October’s Very Own—what he does for a living and he’ll tell you simply, “I manage Drake’s career with my partner, Future [the Prince]. I’m a worker.” El-Khatib’s career is proof that in today’s noisy and fractured business landscape, humility, work ethic, and, most of all, authenticity are what will break you through. Early on, Drake and El-Khatib realized that in order to change music, Drake had to offer music a change. “I remember guys walking around Caribana”—that’s Toronto’s Caribbean carnival— “talking like they’re from New York, to impress girls,” El-Khatib says. So they went the other way: Instead of downplaying the pinched Canadian accents, the snow boots and down parkas, and the local West Indian influences,…

It has two theaters. A curated candy shop. A restaurant, a bar, a miniature bookstore, and four highly trained projectionists who handle the rare archival film prints. It’s downtown new york’s metrograph—an indieplex for the artisanal generation. Here, mad-genius founder Alexander Olch chops it up with indie auteur Wes Anderson. WES ANDERSON: Jumping right in, how did Metrograph start? ALEXANDER OLCH: It started about seven years ago. I was traveling to theaters around the U.S. with a documentary I directed, The Windmill Movie. The man who released that film theatrically was Jake Perlin, and an idea came into my head that there was a way to fill a theater with Jake as the artistic director. And I suppose that, slowly but surely, Metrograph has become my latest feature film. It’s…

‘WE HAVE 82 GAMES A SEASON, AND THE CAMERAS ARE ALWAYS ON US. I LIKE TO SHOWCASE MY PERSONAL STYLE EACH NIGHT; IT’S MY VERSION OF DRESSING UP FOR THE OFFICE. —James Harden ‘IF I COULD SEE ANYONE WEARING THE CLOTHES I MAKE, IT WOULD BE OLD MEN AND 5-YEAR-OLDS. OLD DUDES AND 5-YEAR-OLDS HAVE THE BEST STYLE. — TYLER, THE CREATOR ‘THESE PANTS WERE MADE BY A JAPANESE MAN NAMED MR. NAGAI IN TOKYO. HE SAID, ‘WITH THESE PANTS, YOU CANNOT WEAR ANYTHING IN THE POCKETS. YOU NEVER KNOW WHAT YOU’RE GOING TO FIND, AND IF YOU FIND IT, YOU’RE GOING TO NEED EMPTY POCKETS.’ SO MY WALLET HAS TO GO IN THE POCKET OF THIS COAT. —Devendra Banhart ‘I’M WORKING ON GREATNESS RIGHT NOW. MORE MUSIC, BIGGER PERFORMANCES.…

They weren’t the first to climb mountains. They were just the first to make it look this cool. They invented their own barebones, white-knuckle style of climbing—taking down unprecedented multi-day ascents and honing the art of free soloing (climbing alone without any ropes). They also patented a lifestyle built around the sport—all under the influence of the California sun, the psychedelic sounds of the 1970s (especially Jimi Hendrix), and copious amounts of reefer. They would come to be known as the Stonemasters, and they would last a decade, from roughly 1970 to 1980, blasting rock ’n’ roll and jazz, partying around campfires, and making insane first ascents throughout Yosemite National Park (and later the world). Here, the surviving core members take us back to that time for one last long…

THE SHORTEST PATH TO FREEDOM Meet three men who are bringing glory and style back to America’s coolest sport. Why climb a towering vertical rock with no ropes, no harness, and nothing but a foam mat below to protect your body from splattering like a fly on a windshield? “Climbing allows you to learn a lot about yourself,” says Daniel Woods, the 27-year-old pro who is one of the core members, along with Jimmy Chin and Sam Elias, of The North Face’s elite climbing squad. “It presents constant challenges that you have to adapt to and overcome.” Maybe that’s why more people are climbing in the U.S. than ever before—4.6 million last year alone. There are now hundreds of climbing gyms open around the country, but Joshua Tree National Park…

Like Club Owner Richie Akiva If you like to party and are attractive enough to fog a mirror, chances are you’ve been to 1 OAK or Up&Down, Richie Akiva’s nightclubs, which are spread among New York, Vegas, Los Angeles, and Mexico. Or maybe you’ve been to one of his pop-up clubs in Miami, Cannes, or any other town where the DiCaprios and Rihannas of the world go to spill Moët and vibe out on banquettes. “What separates me from others in my business is that I know how to put the right people together,” Akiva says. “You can go to a club that has the same DJ, the same people, but it will feel different. I’m a conductor. I make the party happen.” A well-designed space, the right music, copious…

For nearly 30 years, Jean Touitou has used his perch atop the minimalist French label A.P.C. to teach men a series of lessons: that their denim should be raw and unwashed, their sweaters simple and sturdy, their boots Chelsea. Another Touitou truism: “If you wear glasses, they’re as important as your mattress or your shoes. Those are the things you spend your life with. Wrong shoes, wrong mattress, wrong glasses: no good.” Touitou’s glasses come from a shop called Maison Bonnet, hidden in Paris’s First Arrondissement. It’s a family operation—piloted now by Franck Bonnet, but with roots four generations back— dedicated to elevating eyeglasses to the level of art. A pair of custom Bonnet glasses is the luxest of the luxe: The family has outfitted some very big names (Saint…

Jared Leto’s assistant looks like she’s wearing a Jared Leto’s Assistant costume. She’s razor-thin with stark bleached hair. An abused vintage T-shirt falling off her shoulders. Skintight black jeans and boots. She’s the coolest assistant in assistant history. And the chillest—considering she’s at work at the moment. “You want, like, a water or something?” I do. I do want a water. We’re at Jared’s home—and he’s asked that I not describe the home or its location or whether or not it has a penis-shaped trampoline in the backyard. (It doesn’t have a penisshaped trampoline in the backyard.) “I’ll go get Jared, cool?” Cool. Jared walks into the living room, clutching a bowl of oatmeal like it’s a newborn. The first thing you notice are his eyes. He has very round…

JOSHUA TREE NATIONAL PARK If you’ve scrolled through Instagram in the past three years, you’re probably familiar with the look of this otherworldly landscape inhabited by wild-limbed trees, ancient stacked boulders, and vision questers who come here to rock climb and mushroom trip. More than 2 million people visited the park last year, but don’t worry about crowds—the place is bigger than Rhode Island and offers endless expanses. Make sure to bring plenty of water, and mind the rattlesnakes. KASA CARNICERIA Y TAQUERIA Tucked in the back room of a grocery store, this locals’ secret serves up tacos al pastor that rival those of L.A.’s foodtruck scene. Grab a bottle of Jarritos or a Mexican Coke next to the carnicería counter before placing your order and go heavy on the…

Like New York City’s Major Food Group For Mario Carbone, Rich Torrisi, and Jeff Zalaznick, the best ideas come from the past. The three men make up Major Food Group, the restaurant company currently making the biggest waves in New York dining. In a city where novelty generates the most hype, they’ve focused on remastering the classics. “People thinking that it’s creative to make food that nobody’s ever seen before, even if it doesn’t taste good,” Carbone says, “that’s not creative at all.” MFG’s establishments are all throwbacks, drawing from the rich and varied heritage of New York. There’s Carbone, the red-sauce joint where even high-profile New Yorkers would gladly forfeit a finger for a reservation; Santina, the breezy coastal-Italian spot in the Meatpacking District; and Dirty French, the buzzy…