Sew News October/November 2020

DEAR READERS, For me, fall sewing means one thing: texture, glorious texture! And this issue is packed with it, from cozy Sherpa to chic leather to cool quilted nylon and more! If you’ve thumbed through the pages and you’re thinking to yourself, hmmm, that’s a lot of bags, you’d be correct! This issue definitely reads bag-a-palooza, and that was our intention. Fall is a great time to change up your bag, and this issue offers three great options: a slick corduroy shopper (page 50), a high-end leather portfolio (page 58) and a quilted puffer tote (page 42). Around here, we love a good outerwear project. This issue also includes three terrific jacket projects to get you in the mood. Rework a shirtdress to create a cool oversized layer, piece a…

Send your tips to sewnews@goldenpeakmedia.com or post them at facebook.com/sewnews. HAMMER TIME When sewing jeans, pound the seams with a hammer to flatten them to a thickness your sewing machine can easily handle. Paula L., Facebook ALL WOUND UP Keep long tape measures tangle-free and easily accessible by storing them in empty medical tape dispensers. Just wind the tape around the inner spool and replace the outer sleeve. Sue L., email GET TO THE POINT Reading the tiny letters at the end of the needle is an eye strain. Write the needle type on an index card, and then pierce the needle through the card. As you complete projects, track usage of individual needles to easily determine when it’s time for a change. Ana S., email JUST IN CASE When…

1. Take your jumpsuit sewing to new heights with Closet Core Pattern’s Blanca Flight Suit. It’s semi-fitted, covered with pockets and beautifully belted at the waist through integrated loops. We also love the zippered closure, which puts your best zipper-sewing skills front and center. This pattern has many adaptable features like long or short sleeves, wide or tapered bottoms and even zippered pockets! This is definitely something to work into your fall wardrobe. closetcorepatterns.com 2. This spiral-bound Sewing Journal is the perfect place to keep your sewing projects organized. With space for 27 projects, you can record and plan many makes past and present with slots for swatches, pricing, adjustments and even a photo. This also makes a fabulous gift for the sewist in your life. Wouldn't you just love…

SN: Describe your perfect day. CN: Sleeping late, then getting up and spending a day creating something. SN: What's your best way to decompress? CN: A good book and a nap! SN: What's your greatest extravagance? CN: FABRIC! SN: Do you have any other favorite hobbies? CN: I crochet a little and read a lot! SN: What's your most treasured possession? CN: Probably my sewing machines. SN: What's your must-have tool in your studio? CN: My point turner and my sewing gauge. SN: What’s your favorite fabric to work with? CN: Linen — love, love, love linen! SN: Where do you find inspiration? CN: Everywhere. I think you should be open to all stimuli — you never know how it can come out in a finished garment! SN: What's your…

MACHINE SETUP Selecting the correct machine settings, needle, presser foot and stitch plate prevents most bulk-related problems because the combination results in strong penetrating power that drives the needle through multiple heavyweight fabric layers and intersecting seams. Select a size 100/16 or 110/18 jeans/ denim needle. The needle has a sharper point and stronger shaft to penetrate thick fabric layers (1). Larger needle sizes have larger eyes and require heavier-weight thread for best results. Use a straight-stitch presser foot that has a small needle opening, providing more stability around the fabric at the penetration point. Or select a foot specifically designed for heavyweight fabrics, such as a jeans foot (2). A walking foot can be used; however, some feet have a large needle opening, which decreases the fabric stability during…

Learn a simple and unique hemming method for jeans that preserves the original hem look. For best results, use this technique on straight legs with little flare at the hem. Install a 100/16 or 110/18 jeans/denim needle into the machine and select a straight stitch. Measure the jeans inseam; record. Measure the desired jeans length along the inseam; record. Subtract the desired length from the actual jeans length measurement, and then divide the measurement in half; record as the hem excess. Fold the jeans hem toward the fabric right side according to the hem excess measurement, making sure not include the original hem in the measurement; pin or baste to secure. Stitch next to the original hem foldline (A). If applicable, use the free arm on the sewing machine. Trim…