Indholdsfortegnelse for October/November 2020 i Sew News

DEAR READERS, For me, fall sewing means one thing: texture, glorious texture! And this issue is packed with it, from cozy Sherpa to chic leather to cool quilted nylon and more! If you’ve thumbed through the pages and you’re thinking to yourself, hmmm, that’s a lot of bags, you’d be correct! This issue definitely reads bag-a-palooza, and that was our intention. Fall is a great time to change up your bag, and this issue offers three great options: a slick corduroy shopper (page 50), a high-end leather portfolio (page 58) and a quilted puffer tote (page 42). Around here, we love a good outerwear project. This issue also includes three terrific jacket projects to get you in the mood. Rework a shirtdress to create a cool oversized layer, piece a…

SN: Describe your perfect day. CN: Sleeping late, then getting up and spending a day creating something. SN: What's your best way to decompress? CN: A good book and a nap! SN: What's your greatest extravagance? CN: FABRIC! SN: Do you have any other favorite hobbies? CN: I crochet a little and read a lot! SN: What's your most treasured possession? CN: Probably my sewing machines. SN: What's your must-have tool in your studio? CN: My point turner and my sewing gauge. SN: What’s your favorite fabric to work with? CN: Linen — love, love, love linen! SN: Where do you find inspiration? CN: Everywhere. I think you should be open to all stimuli — you never know how it can come out in a finished garment! SN: What's your…

QI have begun making pants. They look pretty good in the back but I get this little bunchy bubble in the front crotch curve. How can I get rid of it? A Bunchy fabric in the front crotch usually means the front crotch seam is too long or the wrong shape. This becomes more evident when the pants are fit snugly. Use a mock-up with grain lines and horizontal balance lines drawn on each leg or a pair of pants made from your pattern to test these steps one at a time to control the fabric in the front crotch. If you make all the changes at once, you will not know which adjustment worked. Reshape the curve: If the fabric is so full you can pinch out the excess…

A MESSAGE FROM MEG Who says layers have to be warm? I love the look of a sheer overlayer, and this one in a chore-coat style leaves little to the imagination — including the construction. But don’t be intimidated by the French seams! This fashion jacket will elevate almost every look and comes together in an afternoon with a little patience. I’ll teach you how to eliminate a shoulder dart to create extra swing and shape in the jacket silhouette in addition to curving around corners for easy bias application. Welcome to your new favorite fancy jacket fabric… Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Loose-fitting jacket pattern (such as Sew News Fall Flip Jacket) • 3 yards of silk organza (See “Source.”) • Size 70/10 fine sewing machine needle • All-purpose…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Four or five pairs of adult-size non-stretch denim jeans • 3 yards of 60”-wide non-stretch denim fabric • 2 yards of double-sided fusible interfacing • 12” length of 1/2” hook-and-loop tape • Variegated blue all-purpose thread • 80 ounces of polyester fiberfill • Size 100/16 denim needle • Removable fabric marker PREPARE Download the Pants to Pillow pattern and appliqué template at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies. Print, and then cut out. Prewash and dry the jeans. Position the jeans on a flat work surface. Remove each pant leg just below the crotch, and then trim away the hems. Trim away the outer leg seam and inseam. Fuse the interfacing to each denim piece wrong side following the manufacturer’s instructions. Using the appliqué template, trace 105 shapes onto the…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Approximately 9 square feet of 3-or 4-ounce leather • 2- or 6-prong 3mm stitching chisel (See “Sources.”) • 16-gauge leather sewing needles (See “Sources.”) • 4-ounce waxed thread (See “Sources.”) • Leather adhesive • Eight 8mm-diameter rivets & attachment tool • Leather hole punch or awl • Leather embossing tool or awl (See “Sources.”) • Rotary cutting system • Hammer • Sandpaper, leather edge paint or wax & wood slicker (optional) PREPARE Download the Eclipse Satchel pattern at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies. Print, and then cut out. From the leather, cut two main panels, two handles and one strap. Transfer all pattern markings to the leather wrong side using a leather embossing tool or awl (1). Designate one main panel as the front panel and the other as…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Ready-to-wear knit or woven top • Ready-to-wear brief underwear that sits 1” below the waist • 2”-wide twill tape • Two 1/2”-wide snaps • Removable fabric marker CONSTRUCT Choose a top that extends past your waistline to ensure there’s enough length for this hack. If using a woven top, make sure there is enough ease in the waistline that you will be able to pull the top over your head and slide your shoulders through. Cut the center of the brief underwear approximately 1/3 of the gusset length from the gusset front (1). Measure the length of the cut edge. Cut two pieces of twill tape that measure the cut edge length plus 1”. With right sides together, align one twill tape long edge centered…

THE ONE-PIECE METHOD This method works best with lighter weight fabrics. The buttonholes are installed after the jacket has been constructed but before adding the facings and lining. Determine the placement of the buttonholes on the jacket. Make sure to allow enough space from the front edge for the chosen button size and to sew the facings onto the jacket. For example, a 5/8” space between the end of the buttonhole to the front edge of the jacket will accommodate a 7/8” to 1” button. Draw a chalk line at the chosen placement. It can also be helpful to hand baste a thread line in case the chalk fades. Determine the required buttonhole length. Generally, the buttonhole will be at least 1/8” wider than the button diameter. For the purposes…

THE QUILTER’S FIELD GUIDE TO COLOR By Rachel Hauser Master effective color combinations! Each of the 14 exercises is a new approach to color theory, challenging sewists and quilters to use their included color cards to explore a variety of possible combinations that can be used in any of the three included quilt patterns. Forget the dry color theory — this book is fun, conversational, practical and beautifully inspiring. abramsbooks.com PIN PALS By Carrie Nelson Pretty. Playful. Pinnies! In this book, you’ll find 40 adorable pinnies with personality. Pincushions are quick to stitch and so addicting — no one can make just one. And why make just one when they're so easy to create? Simply sew, quilt, turn and stuff! Display them as singles or in pleasing piles. You'll want…

As comic conventions become more popular, cosplay is also becoming more popular, particularly on social media. There are dozens of new hopeful sewists and makers sitting at their machines creating walking art every single day. With contests such as The Her Universe Fashion show and The Crown Championships of Cosplay, costume makers all over the world are pushing the boundaries of craftsmanship in order to create art. Many of us are pouring our hearts and souls into discovering different techniques to try to breathe life into our favorite characters. There’s no limit to our imaginations. Over the years, we’ve found it difficult to acquire the perfect fabric or materials to accomplish our desired outcome, so we have gotten very good at problem solving and creating new solutions for our community.…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • 1/2 yard each of tan and black rip-stop nylon fabric • 2 yards each of white ripstop nylon fabric & high-loft batting • 1 yard of lining fabric • Nylon or polyester thread • Size 70/10 universal needle • Four 1 9/16”-diameter curtain grommets • Binding or magnetic clips (See “Sources.”) • Removable fabric marker • Walking or roller foot CUT From the white fabric, cut two 6”x20” rectangles for the exterior upper panels and two 6”x57” rectangles for the handles. From each of the tan and black fabric, cut two 6”x20” rectangles for the exterior center and lower panels. From the lining, cut two 16”x20” rectangles. From the batting, cut four 16”x20” rectangles and two 6”x57” rectangles for the handles. CONSTRUCT Use 1/2" seam…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • 1/2 yard each of 45”-wide corduroy fabric (exterior), woven print fabric (lining) & mediumweight fusible interfacing (See “Source.”) • All-purpose thread • Removable fabric marker PREPARE Download the Strapped in Shopper pattern at sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies. Print, and then cut out. Cut two main panels from each of the exterior fabric, lining and interfacing. Transfer all the pattern markings. Fuse one interfacing piece to each lining main-panel wrong side according to the manufacturer’s instructions. CONSTRUCT Use 1/4" seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Position the two exterior panels with right sides together; pin. Stitch between the notches along the side and lower edges. Stitch the handle short edges (1). Press the seam allowances open. To box the corners, flatten one main-panel corner with right sides together, aligning the…

• A saddle stitch uses two needles, with one on each end of a thread length. • Cut a thread length that measures from your nose to the end of your arm. Any longer thread length tends to be harder to work with and often tangles. • Choose two leather needles that correspond to the stitching chisel size being used. • To create a saddle stitch, both thread ends weave through the leather holes in a figure-eight shape. Thread one needle on each thread end, making sure to keep them equidistant from the thread center. Thread one needle through the first hole and center the thread in the hole. Feed either needle through the second hole, ending with both needles on the same leather side. • Take the second needle…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • 12” square of solid woven fabric • Wax-free transfer paper (See “Sources.”) • Tracing stylus (See “Sources.”) • 8”-diameter embroidery hoop • 4 skeins of matching embroidery floss • Size 10/5 embroidery needle • Matching spray paint • 81/2”x11” piece of decorative cardstock • Glue stick • Painter’s tape PREPARE Download the Fall on the Wall templates from sewdaily.com/go/SNfreebies. Print out the desired design. Separate the embroidery hoop. Position the cardstock right side up on a flat work surface. Position the inner hoop over the cardstock; trace the hoop outer perimeter. Cut out, and then set aside. In a well-ventilated area over a protected work surface, spray paint the outer hoop. Center the template over the fabric square with right sides facing up; tape along…

1. Take your jumpsuit sewing to new heights with Closet Core Pattern’s Blanca Flight Suit. It’s semi-fitted, covered with pockets and beautifully belted at the waist through integrated loops. We also love the zippered closure, which puts your best zipper-sewing skills front and center. This pattern has many adaptable features like long or short sleeves, wide or tapered bottoms and even zippered pockets! This is definitely something to work into your fall wardrobe. closetcorepatterns.com 2. This spiral-bound Sewing Journal is the perfect place to keep your sewing projects organized. With space for 27 projects, you can record and plan many makes past and present with slots for swatches, pricing, adjustments and even a photo. This also makes a fabulous gift for the sewist in your life. Wouldn't you just love…

1 #BPSEWVEMBER When November rolls around, so does Sewvember! Amanda of Bimble & Pimble has been inspiring Instagram sewists since 2014 with this photo challenge. Click on over to her Instagram account @bimbleandpimble to see what this year has to offer and share your studio, stashes and stories with the sewing community. Participate as little or as much as you want. We love how sewing challenges encourage the community to come together on social media. They're a fabulous excuse to get posting if you’ve been feeling uninspired. 2 GET SEWCIALIST This inclusive editorial site is the perfect place to get informed and read sewing stories from sewists of all ages, genders, abilities, ethnicities, orientations and sizes in this welcoming community. Specifically, their Who We Are series is always looking for…

Skill Level: Intermediate SUPPLIES • Pullover hoodie pattern (such as Simplicity 1261) • 2 yards of brown Sherpa fleece (See “Sources.”) • 1/2 yard each of white and pink Sherpa fleece (See “Sources.”) • All-purpose thread • Size 90/14 ballpoint needle • Clear ruler with marked 45° angle • Pattern or tracing paper • Clear tape • Walking foot (optional) • Serger (optional) PREPARE Cut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a muslin-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on paper, transferring all markings. ALTER Trace the front pattern onto new pattern paper, transferring all markings. Position the front pattern piece on a flat work surface. If using a pattern with a center-front…

Learn a few tips and tricks to use when working with ripstop fabric. • Select a sharp, pointed needle, such as a size 70/10 universal, when stitching ripstop fabric. • Using a walking or roller foot prevents the slippery ripstop fabric from shifting during stitching. • Select a stitch length that produces 11 or fewer stitches per inch to ensure durability. • Select nylon or polyester thread. • Traditional pinning leaves permanent holes in the fabric. Use binding or magnetic clips to hold ripstop fabric layers together.…

Skill Level: Beginner SUPPLIES • Shirt or shirtdress pattern with sleeves (such as the Kalle Shirt-dress by Closet Core Patterns) • Plaid fabric (such as wool or wool blends; recommended amount plus 1 yard) • All-purpose thread • Buttons • Pattern or tracing paper PLAN & ALTER Choose from a variety of fabrics like wool, leather/pleather and prints like plaid, Glen plaid, checks, tweed and houndstooth. Color blocking or mixing prints like two-tone plaids or checks is a trendy way to add interest to your jacket. The featured project used a lightweight wool blend plaid fabric and accented it with a solid jacquard fabric for the back yoke lining, pockets, Hong-Kong seams and hem. Start with a favorite collared shirt pattern, or any shirt pattern. This sample uses Closet Core…

Patch-Pocket Patterns Use an existing square or rectangular patch-pocket pattern as a base for the different pocket types. If a different size is needed of the existing pattern, print or copy the pattern at the desired percentage, such as 110% for a larger pocket or 75% for a smaller pocket. However, this increases or decreases the seam allowances, so redraw a correct seam allowance on the new pattern. If no existing pattern is available, draw any size rectangle on pattern paper. Most patch-pocket patterns have seam allowances and an attached facing (1). The featured pocket drafting instructions either uses the complete pattern piece or just the finished pocket size. To obtain the finished pocket size pattern, remove all seam allowances and facing. Basic Patch-Pocket Sewing Press the pocket-facing lower edge…

Learn the most common hand embroidery stitches to easily complete a simple project. CHAIN STITCH: Knot the thread. Bring the thread up from the wrong side at 1. Make a loop to the left, holding the loop with a thumb. Insert the needle at 2 and bring it up at 3. Pull the needle and thread through the loop, but not too tightly. Repeat by inserting the needle inside the first loop at 4 and back up at 5. Repeat to create a chain of stitches (A). RUNNING STITCH: Bring the thread up from the wrong side at 1. Insert the needle at 2, up at 3, in at 4 and up at 5. Pull the thread through (B). Keep the stitches about twice as long as the spaces between…

SEW ALONG WITH US Register at sewdaily.com during the months of October and November to get the Como Culottes pattern and video sew-along course free! Then sew up the swishy cool-weather culottes of your dreams – with us! By registering, you’re automatically entered to win a new sewing machine from Husqvarna Viking. THE PATTERN The Como Culottes offer a cool, modern update to the classic culotte. A flat waistband, inseam pockets and a side zipper create a sleek silhouette while ample, deep pleats and wide legs create drama and volume. Sew up a pair in warm fabrics with ample drape such as lightweight wools, suiting blends, tencel twill, mediumweight linen blends and more. The pattern includes sizes 0-34. Find the culottes pattern and the video and pattern combo at sewdaily.com…

DRESS PATTERN Opt for a pattern meant for knits with a turtleneck. Layer a tighter long sleeve dress under an oversized sweater-vest dress for that layered look. . COLOR PALETTE Use a mixture of light- and heavyweight sweater knit fabrics for each piece — just make sure they are different neutrals for contrast! FINAL TOUCHES Like any good oversized silhouette, a belt is always better — especially when it’s designer. To play off the look, pair with some combat boots so you can walk all over the city without any discomfort. To keep the sleek lines of the outfit intact, carry a clutch bag, structured or not, with a wrist strap for extra security. TIP No turtleneck? No problem! Draft one yourself by measuring the neckline of the pattern.…

PAULINE BRUCE (“Street Style Layer” – page 54), aka @sewuthinkucan on IG, has been sewing since age five. She expresses her creativity through pattern hacking by customizing commercial sewing patterns to create garments that are unique and reflect her personality. Pauline is fascinated by the versatility of stripes and loves to manipulate them in a variety of ways when making her clothes. She’s a homeschool mom who currently lives in northern California with her husband and three children. JILL CASE (“Strapped in Shopper” – page 50) is the owner of the Denver Sewing Collective, Denver’s vibrant offline (and online) sewing community. Jill has worked as an Online Editor for Sew News magazine, theater companies along the west coast and even the IRS. When she’s not sewing or searching for the…