Indholdsfortegnelse for Summer 2024 i VertdeVin Wine Magazine

Welcome to this 26th edition! I'm very pleased to introduce to you this 2024 Summer edition of VERTDEVIN magazine. For this issue we chose to taste a lot of wines from France, Italy, Portugal, Switzerland, Hungary and from United-States. More than 2.000 reviews are to read in the following pages! Well, in the first part of the magazine you will discover some winemakers interviews, wineries articles as La Maison Cardinale, Château Cantenac-Brown, Château Lascombes, Domaine Raoul Gautherin, Lakoya, Malvira’, Caiarossa… articles about the volcanic terroir of Vesuvio, about Alta Langa, Romagna Sangiovese… and about the Hungarian Bubble Revolution. Discover also the legend of Trasimeno Lake and surprising history of Trasimeno Gamay grape variety. Then, find out how Bellenda winery experiments with Metodo Classico in Conegliano Valdobbiadene. In the second part…

This increasingly popular and virtuous denomination involves 5200 wineries, 8 cooperative wineries, 108 producers and 4 bottlers. With an area under vine of 5890 hectares and 9 million bottles produced in 2023 against 10 and 11 in 2022 and 2020 respectively, the top denomination is undoubtedly Romagna Sangiovese, flanked by 5 DOC and 4 IGT wines. A Romagna Sangiovese that gives wineries the opportunity to produce it in and version, the quality pyramid is made up of Romagna Sangiovese, Romagna Sangiovese Superiore, which in recent vintages has been registering an increasingly high level, and Romagna Sangiovese Sottozona (Imola, Serra, Brisighella, Oriolo, Marzeno, Modigliana, Castrocaro, Predappio, Bertinoro, Cesena, Mercato Saraceno, Longiano, Verucchio, Coriano, San Clemente). For each type, there is the possibility of claiming the ‘Riserva’ version. Focusing on the characteristics…

Due to its diverse soils and production styles, Vermentino in the Colli di Luni area proves to be one of the most interesting white wines on the Italian scene. The production area of around 170 hectares protected by the DOC Colli di Luni, which has been in operation since 1989, is in the provinces of La Spezia and Massa Carrara in a landscape that winds its way through various impervious areas, such that viticulture here is defined as ‘heroic’. An area dedicated to wine, rows of vines alternate with olive groves and streams. One breathes in history as one learns that the foundation of Lunae dates to 177 B.C., vines were already known in Greek and Phoenician times. The area also became known for its marble, the famous Carrara marble,…

Grüner Veltliner can lay claim to being Austria's signature grape variety. Not only is it the most widely planted variety, covering 32% of vineyard space, it is capable of producing a wide range of styles including world-class, age worthy wines. Rarely found elsewhere, you will find small plantings in neighbouring Czech Republic and Hungary. More recently, growers in New Zealand, Argentina and the U.S.A. have been experimenting with the variety. However, Austria is still responsible for over 90% of all plantings. It is possible that, because it is only grown in one small country, it doesn't quite get the recognition it deserves. Having said that, Grüner Veltliner, or GrooVee as some call it, is an essential component on fashionable wine lists from New York to London to Tokyo. Many sommeliers…

A winery closely linked to its place of origin and that in a certain sense pays homage to the history of an ancient Roman city: the town of Luni. On the border between Liguria and Tuscany, all that remains today are the ruins of what was once a powerful maritime city. A thousand-year history, already in 177 BC a Roman colony was founded at the mouth of the river Magra and named ‘Portus Lunae’. Pliny the Elder, in his work ‘Naturalis Historia’ about the wine of this place wrote: ‘Etruriae Luna palma habet…’ (65 AD). The Bosoni family, rooted in this territory for 4 generations, is committed to the cultivation of vines, the production of wine and the protection of the territory and, of course, its promotion. An activity that…

Matt Ridgway had, in his own words, an idyllic childhood “wading through ponds, jumping on haybales …” in the British County of Dorset. As soon as he was old enough to travel, he did, with a goal to end up in southeast Asia, teaching English as a foreign language. There's a book to be written, detailing Ridgway's global adventures, which include selling real estate in multiple countries, a one-way cheap flight out of (boring) Ecuador to Buenos Aires and a failed relationship. All of which led to Chile, and a property purchase 200km south of Santiago. Ridgway chose the spot because he was missing the greenery of his childhood; the plan to renovate and sell on. As with every great story, the protagonist has a foil: Ridgways’ is his Malaysian…

SPARKLING WINES Il Poggio, Raggio di Luna Vino Spumante Brut (Chardonnay) The nose offers concentration and juiciness. It expresses the gourmet aromas of white peach, apricot, tangy citrus fruits (lime, lemon zest, lemon juice), associated with a floral touch of lemon blossom, as well as a hint of fresh yeast and brioche. The finish is long, chiselled and refreshing, with a slight bitterness. The bubbles are fine and pleasant. Score: 15.25/20 (90/100) Duca della Corgna Tuffetto 2022 Umbria IGT Bianco Frizzante (Grechetto, Trebbiano Toscano) The nose offers lightness and airiness. It expresses notes of white peach, lemon, acacia, green apple and a touch of fresh grapes. The palate offers delicacy, a fine effervescence, which adds texture to the wine. It expresses the aromas of apricot, white peach, lemon, acacia, green…

POUILLY-FUMÉ Domaine Raimbault-Pineau 2023 Pouilly-Fumé The wine has a lemon yellow color of medium intensity. The nose offers precise lemony aromas (lime, lemon zest, lime zest, candied grapefruit), a racy minerality (limestone, touch of smoke of flint in the background), as well as airy notes of juicy green apple, tangy apricot, acacia and elderflower. The palate offers a dense and fragrant attack, but with plenty of freshness. It expresses in particular the aromas of ripe white peach, apricot, crushed green apple, ripe lemon and candied grapefruit. In the mid-palate, we feel good bitterness of grapefruit and lime, the racy minerality of limestone and gunflint, as well as floral notes of acacia and elderflower. The finish is juicy, even gourmand, with a certain roundness of white peach and the sweetness of…

ERBALUCE DI CALUSO DOCG Cantine Crosio – Primavite 2022 Erbaluce di Caluso DOCG The nose is fresh, mineral and offers a stretched delicate side. There are notes of fresh kumquat, crushed small fruits and small notes of white flowers associated with slight almost touches of fresh/ juicy mirabelle plum. The mouth is beautifully fresh, full, bewitching and offers a beautiful fat and an acidulous frame. In the mouth it expresses notes of mirabelle plum, crushed pear and small notes of crushed small yellow fruits associated with touches of toast as well as slight hints of almond and a subtle hint almost floral in the background and toasted from fat/appetizing. Good length. Beautiful fat given by the batonnage of 6 months in inox. Beautiful energy. Good bitterness on the finish/persistence. Score:…

DÃO WHITE WINES Carlos Lucas, Ribeiro Santo Encruzado 2023 Dão The nose offers density, a slight sweetness and a texture. It expresses notes of very ripe pineapple (even roasted pineapple), golden apple, yellow peach, associated with lively herbaceous and vegetal aromas (in a good sense) – cut grass, cucumber, fresh thyme, as well as an expressive lemony aromas (lemon, lime, lemon zest, grapefruit). In the background, we also find notes of acacia, a very subtle woody touch (fresh wood), as well as a lactic hint (yogurt, butter). The palate is gourmand, enveloping, and offers creaminess and a certain volume. The attack is rich, fleshy, but not heavy. We find notes of crushed yellow peach, fresh mango, apricot, pineapple and pineapple yogurt, associated in the mid-palate with notes of fresh wood,…

TOSCANA Cordella Rosato 2022 Toscana IGT The wine has a salmon pink color, with orange reflections. The nose is very fragrant and gourmand. It opens with pronounced notes of stone fruit (apricot, white peach, white nectarine), combined with a salty mineral touch, floral aromas of apricot blossom and orange blossom, as well as a hint orange zest and grapefruit juice. The palate offers a beautiful expression of flavors, a gourmand and round attack. We firstly find the notes of apricot, orange zest, white nectarine and grapefruit juice, but without bitterness, which are completed in the mid-palate by notes of orange blossom and lime zest in the background. The finish offers a nice acidity, a very delicate salinity and bitterness, as well as a touch of dried raspberry. The texture is…

KEUKA LAKE Dr Konstantin Frank, Brut 2020 Keuka Lake Traditional method chardonnay dominant sparkling with richness and ripeness. Its dominant aromas include crisp apple, citrus, ginger and almonds with well-integrated, delicate autolytic character that brings complexity. The mousse is creamy and supported. Score: 15.25/20 (90/100) Dr Konstantin Frank, Célèbre Rosé Brut Keuka Lake Blend of mostly Pinot Noir with some Meunier and Chardonnay it has a lively fruitiness on wild berries, strawberries, raspberries, blackberries and black cherries. While not overly complex, it offers good balance and delicate, elegant style. Score: 14.5/20 (88/100) Dr Konstantin Frank, Blanc de noirs 2019 Keuka Lake The blanc de Noirs surprises with its extremely vibrant acidity and lively depth of fruitiness. It bursts with notes of red apple, cherry, and a hint of citrus, all…

CÔTES DU JURA Marcel Cabelier - Esprit 39 Côtes du Jura AOP This wine has a golden straw color. It is shiny and clear. The first nose is powerful and aromatic. We perceive notes of yellow fruits such as peach in syrup but we also have touches of currants as well as walnuts and its fresh shell. We also have hints of cocoa and yellow apple. With air, the wine is still aromatic, round, direct, spicy with notes of candied yellow fruits as well as fresh cream. We have fine hints of curry, candied lemon zest and mint. The palate is fresh, round and creamy with notes of crème fraîche, curry but also yellow apple. There is a nice acidity in the mid-palate which continues into a finish with a…

Château Arton - Pièce Unique 2012, fût n°25 Haut-Armagnac (Ugni Blanc, bottled: March 2024) Nice harmonious nose, sweet and powerful at the same time. A nice polished grain. There are notes of rancio, dried apricot and small notes of dried lemon associated with fine touches of crushed raisin as well as a hint of orange paste and pepper. The palate is fruity, suave and offers power, juiciness, an airy side as well as a nice stretched, precise and straight grain. On the palate this Armagnac expresses notes of quince, orange marmalade and small notes of crushed raisins associated with touches of dried apricot, citron, tobacco as well as fine hints of toasted/dry oak and a subtle hint of pepper (in the background). Good length. A subtle hint of torrefaction. Score:…

JONATHAN CHOUKROUN CHICHEPORTICHE Jonathan is a French journalist, wine & spirits critic and editor. He began his career working for other wine media (paper and digital) as well as wineries (Bordeaux, USA). Passionate, curious and epicurean, he chose in 2010 to create Vertdevin in order to highlight all the beauty and diversity of wines & spirits, always with high standards in the work. JOANIE METIVIER Sommelier, Wine writer, Whisky ambassador, her official title is a little vague and her path rather atypical. Her studies are ongoing and will probably ever be. She may be the youngest Wine writer in Quebec, but her adventures are rich and esteemed. joaniemetivier.com Instagram: @joaniemetivier VALERIA TENISON Valeria Tenison is a MW student, skilled sommelier and wine writer with a passion for sharing her knowledge…

Château Cantenac Brown is a Grand Cru Classé of 1855 located in Margaux. The founder, John Lewis Brown, had roots in Scotland. So, in 1806 he naturally decided to exhibit the famous Tudor-style with an extraordinary mansion displaying a clever mix of red bricks and Gironde blond limestone… and 365 windows! Though this article is not about the historical Château but about the brand-new ecological cellar made in raw earth. To learn more about it, I met José Sanfins, the General Manager and winemaker of the estate, for a memorable visit. In 2020, the dream of a new cellar with the highest environmental quality appeared. Obviously, Château Cantenac Brown already had a cellar, but it was time to embrace their true vision: the perfect blend between nature and culture. The…

A south-eastern neighbor of Tuscany, Umbria, is a lesser known wine region, but it offers places with magnificent landscapes, a great, but undiscovered potential for winemaking, a rich millennial history and numerous opportunities for enotourism. Gentle slopes, descending towards the Trasimeno Lake are particularly suitable to vines and olives. Here we find white and red grape varieties (including one with an unexpected name), which produce sparkling and still wines of all colours with a surprising and perfumed profile. More than 2000 years of history For numerous centuries the territory around the Lake of Trasimeno, which gives the name for the appellation, was inhabited by the Etruscan people. They cultivated vines, olives, and thanks to them it is possible to trace the origins of the viticulture in this region. Agriculture is…

Wine grows on sun-drenched slopes in beautiful regions, seemingly untouched by all of the world's evil and woes. That might be what most people think but, as a matter of fact, wine finds itself in the maelstrom of world politics more often than one might think. Wine as symbolic tool It was just a queer little bottle. For Boris Johnson, however, it represented the ”historic freedom” that the then British Prime Minister wanted to give back to his fellow countrymen in 2021. He felt very close to his great role model, Winston Churchill, Britain's greatest statesman of the 20th century, a fan of champagne poured from 568ml pint bottles. Johnson wanted to reintroduce the format after Brexit and lead the British into great times. The market responded with scepticism; 98.7%…

Champagne Laurent Lequart, Andésyne, Rosé d'assemblage The wine has a salmon pink color. The nose is tangy and fragrant. It first expresses notes of raspberry, fresh cranberries, mara be bois strawberry, grapefruit combined with gourmet aromas of red apple, vine peach and juicy apricot. On the second nose, we find an elegant floral bouquet – the aromas of wild rose, peony and lily in the background. We also sense a fine mineral notes and hints of of brioche and bread dough after aeration. On the palate, the wine is straight and fresh, with a tangy and frank attack. It first expresses notes of tangy apricot, grapefruit, raspberry, wild strawberry and red apple. In the mid-palate, we find notes of cranberries, vine peach, wild rose and peony. In the end of…

BANDOL Château Val d'Arenc 2023 AOP Bandol The wine has a pale lemon yellow color. The nose is fresh with notes of white peach as well as lemon zest. It's discreet. The second nose opens slightly with a hint of saline and minerality. The palate is fresh with a buttery note from the attack. Then we have touches of pineapple as well as yellow peach and nectarine. There is a slight sweetness at the start. The finish develops on mirabelle plum and baked apple. Score: 15/20 (89-90/100) Domaine de la Font des Pères 2020 AOC Bandol The wine has a beautiful light lemon yellow color. The nose is powerful and aromatic with a nice mix of fresh fruits and dried fruits. There are notes of mint as well as apple…

LANGUEDOC Château de Lascaux - Les Pierres d'Argent 2020 AOC Languedoc The wine has a beautiful clear lemon color. The nose is aromatic, fresh and fruity. We have mineral touches with a slight note of honey. We perceive notes of almond, ripe lemon as well as apple. There is an imperceptible hint of salted caramel in the background. The second nose is clear and clean with fruit. There is a discreet hint of hydrocarbon with apple and cooked pear. The mouth is fresh with umami. We perceive a beautiful roundness with a nice salivating acidity and a hint of iodine. We have notes of dried fruits such as almond but also of baked yellow apple, ripe pear and roasted pineapple. The finish is velvety and long. It is a gastronomic…

Vylyan Cabernet Franc 2020 Villányi The wine has a ruby color of medium intensity, with slight garnet reflections. On the nose, the wine is discreet and requires aeration. It then expresses the aromas of dried strawberry, dried red cherry, dried raspberry, as well as fresh black plum and morello cherry in the background. We also find spicy notes: nutmeg, liquorice, white pepper, cocoa, a light touch of torrefaction (coffee), of dried mint, dried violet and dried rose. The tertiary notes (tobacco, damp leaves, leather) are very subtle and integrated. The palate has a silky and supple attack, with flavors of cherry and chocolate. We then find notes of wild strawberries, blackberries, morello cherries, raspberry coulis, a touch of prunes in chocolate, as well as spicy notes of cloves, liquorice, white…

RED WINES Poderi dal Nespoli - “Gualdo” 2021 Romagna DOC Sangiovese Predappio Beautiful fruity nose, full and gourmand that offers richness/ creaminess in balance and a chewy and intense grain. There are notes of brillant strawberry, bright cherry and small notes of brillant red berries associated with touches of violet, penja pepper as well as slight liquorice hints, morello cherry and a slight almost warm local grove hint. The mouth is beautifully juicy, suave and offers gourmandise, a beautiful texture, creaminess in finesse and in balance as well as a beautiful stretched side and an aerial side. In the mouth this wine expresses notes of creamy/ juicy raspberry, bright pulpy/ juicy cherry and roasted-juicy red berries associated with touches of violet, pulpy/ ripe blueberry, pepper as well as cornflower and…

Mullineux Old Vines White 2023 Swartland, South Africa This wine showcases direct aromas of fresh stone fruit and lightly poached pear, leading to a complex palate layered with yellow grapefruit, nectarines, and vibrant acidity. Hints of ginger and citrus-like galangal complete the finish. The blend of 62% Chenin Blanc, 10% Clairette Blanche, 9% Viognier, 7% Grenache Blanc, 6% Semillon Gris, and 6% Verdelho, sourced from sustainably farmed old vines, showcases incredible texture, freshness, and opulent fragrance. Aged for 11 months in French oak, it presents a harmonious balance with excellent fruit density and a dry, lengthy finish. Score: 15.5+/20 (91/100) Mullineux Syrah 2021 Swartland, South Africa This wine is intensely perfumed with notes of blackberries, fresh cracked pepper, cassis, violets, dried flowers, dried meat and tapenade. The palate is rich…

Situated on the hills of Conegliano Valdobbiadene, on the beautiful slopes of Carpesica, Bellenda is wine estate, particularly enthusiastic to the revival and rediscovering of Metodo Classico (production of sparkling wines by second fermentation in the bottle) in the area. Cosmo family never stops experimenting with bottle fermentation of Glera and believes, that Conegliano Valdobbiadene is the place, where wines from this grape variety, produced by Metodo Classico, perfectly reflect the multiple facets of the terroir of the area. VertdeVin: The history of Bellenda winery starts in 1986… Did your family produced wine before or you were in another business? Umberto Cosmo: Our family, originated from Venise, moved to the region of Conegliano Valdobbiadene in 18th century. We always had vineyards and lands and worked in agriculture but, mostly in…

Chiara is one of the undisputed stars of the Romagna wine scene. Able in just a few years to impose herself on the market for the quality and personality of her wines. With a fresh and captivating soul, faithful to the territory in which they are born. A talent and commitment recognized throughout the world, the winery exports to many countries. Very young, under 40, after completing her studies in economics in 2012 and an experience abroad, she returned to her Fiumana di Predappio. She began working alongside her father in running the business, and in 2015 decided to open her own business. He immediately has clear ideas: to create a space of his own in which he can express himself through wines that bear his signature. The greatest efforts…

Cerro la Isa Viñedo Singular Garnacha 2020 Rioja DOC (organic) The wine has a ruby color of medium intensity. The nose is aromatic and fleshy. It expresses notes of crushed strawberry, roasted red cherry, morello cherry, red currant jam, juicy red plum and vine peach in the background. […] It expresses the flavors of crushed wild strawberries, ripe morello cherries, roasted red cherries in the background, red currant jelly, raspberry coulis, as well as cranberry syrup. Then, we find the herbaceous notes of fresh tobacco, peppermint, as well as a savoury spiciness (nutmeg, cumin, liquorice, a hint of vanilla and cardamom), sweet notes of dark chocolate, morello cherry in chocolate, as well as peony and iris in the background. The finish is straight, chiseled and fresh. It expresses a salivating…

BELLENDA WINERY Bellenda Con Alti/Non Filtrato 2022 Colli Trevigiani IGT (unfiltered, no added sulphites) The wine has a pale, cloudy lemon yellow colour (due to yeast remaining after a single fermentation in the bottle). A fragrant and typical nose of local grape varieties which constitute the blend (Glera, Verdiso, Grechetto) and the limestone and moraine terroir of the region. We find a precise minerality, delicate yeasty notes (fresh yeast in the background, bread), a burst of fresh and juicy fruits (green apple, green pear), a touch of citrus (lemon, grapefruit, lemon zest) and airy floral scents (honeysuckle, linden, acacia). The palate is pleasant, straight and aromatic. The attack expresses delicate effervescence, with fine bubbles, tangy fruity flavors (green apple, green pear, lemon zest, fresh yellow lemon), a limestone and slightly…

PETIT CHABLIS Jean Collet & Fils - Petit Chablis 2023 Petit Chablis The wine has a pale lemon yellow color. The nose is pure, chiselled and racy: it expresses tangy notes of fresh lemon, lemon zest, lime, green apple and fresh herbs, as well as clear limestone minerality. We also find a touch of acacia and hay in the background. The mouth is lively, vertical and vibrant. It offers a salivating acidity, notes of citrus (lemon, grapefruit), green apple and limestone, as well as a good bitterness of lime. The finish is slightly bitter, tangy and quite lingering. A very fresh and balanced wine, which combines liveliness and minerality with a certain roundness. Score: 14.75+/20 (89/100) Domaine Raoul Gautherin & Fils, La Terre de mon Père 2023 Petit Chablis The…

Domaine Belot - Best of Belot 2022 AOC Saint-Chinian The wine has an intense black cherry color. The nose is slightly closed with smoky and red fruit notes. There is a nice minty freshness. The second nose opens little by little with red fruits such as strawberries and small red cherries. There is a racy minerality. The palate is fresh, aromatic with a nice acidity. We find small, crunchy red fruits accompanied by blueberries and juicy black cherries. The tannins are powerful and become more supple in a long blueberry finish. Score: 15.25/20 (90/100) Domaine Belot - Vignalet 2023 AOC Saint-Chinian The wine has a deep, clear ruby color. The nose is fresh and fruity. The wine is young with notes of red cherry as well as fresh redcurrant. We…

PASSITO Antonelli 2020 Montefalco Sagrantino Passito The nose is fruity and offers a certain power, a slight intensity as well as a beautiful stretched side of the grain. There are notes of cassis jelly, crushed plum and small notes of spices associated with almost dry apricot touches, almost crushed Zante currant, sweet spices as well as a subtle aromatic herbs. The mouth is beautifuly built, fruity, gourmand and offers a small fat, unctuosity, a beautiful aciduly, an acidulous frame as well as a beautiful matter. In the mouth this wine expresses notes of crushed fig, dry apricot and small notes of cassis jelly associated with almost orange paste touches as well as a subtle hint of tobacco and chocolate. Good length. Beautiful definition and gourmandise. Score: 16.5/20 (93/100) Scacciadiavoli 2020…

Tenuta Franzona 2021 Bio Romagna Sangiovese Superiore Brilliant ruby red, very bright. Notes of eucalyptus, currant and raspberry on the nose. Very fruity sensations in the glass, even with aeration and anticipation. On the palate it is very juicy, textural, with great density and cleanliness. Sharp, viscous, very broad from the entry, on the palate it lingers with a fragrant taste and good dynamism on fruity returns. Very involving. Score: 16.5+/20 (93-94/100) Enio Ottaviani Sole rosso 2021 Romagna Sangiovese Superiore Riserva Brilliant ruby colour tending to garnet. Very intense. The nose expresses itself with great intensity and expressiveness. Hints of sweet red fruit, raspberries and small, sweet berries. On the palate it is juicy with a fine energy and drinkability propulsion in which the fruity persistence finely overpowers the tannic…