Indholdsfortegnelse for October 2019 i Vogue

FALL SKIN-CARE GUIDE WHEN SHE’S NOT BUSY LIFTING and toning the jawlines of Amber Valletta and Naomi Campbell, Danuta Mieloch, the facialist and founder of Rescue Spa in New York and Philadelphia, can be found in the workspace of her Bucks County, Pennsylvania, farmhouse. After more than 15 years as an in-demand aesthetician, Mieloch is endlessly tinkering with her first product: a stand-alone, milky-smooth cream of her own design. “I’m obsessed with finding that potion that does it all,” she says. She’s not the only one. Following inevitable fatigue from multistep skin-care routines popularized by Korean beauty imports, and viral tutorials on YouTube and Instagram, there is a new demand for streamlined, do-it-all moisturizers. At her spa’s boutique, Mieloch is consistently reupping her supply of Biologique Recherche Creme MSRH to…

FALL SKIN-CARE GUIDE When True Botanicals signed the actor and director Olivia Wilde as its “Chief Brand Activist” in 2017, it seemed like a clever play on the more standard brand-ambassador title. But as Wilde has used the platform to become increasingly vocal about potentially harmful ingredients in personal-care products, the idea has gone from a moment to a movement based around radical transparency. “This is the future,” says Laura Dern, who joins Wilde and Joker star Zazie Beetz in True Botanicals’ newly formed Band of Activists, a program that debuts this month whereby all three women will amplify the critical conversation around exposure to toxins in our skin care. A longtime environmentalist who has worked with organizations such as the Natural Resources Defense Council (NRDC), Dern was compelled to…

DURO OLOWU Fans of his patchworked Duro dress range from First Ladies to fashion editors whose skilled eyes recognize that this is no mere quilt job. On the Empire-waisted frock are fabric trims dating back to couture’s Golden Age—Lyonnaise jacquards from Bianchini-Férier and chinés from the defunct Swiss silk mill Abraham. A self-professed fabric nerd, Olowu explains that you just have to know what you’re looking for: “I became known for walking into any store and saying, ‘Could you just show me the stuff in the basement?’” RVDK RONALD VAN DER KEMP Though he’s tight-lipped about where he unearths them, Ronald van der Kemp is quite expressive when it comes to the vintage fabrics that go into his one-of-a kind, direct-to-client creations. “One of the French mills that used to…

HEALTH Miles away from the nearest imaging center and wearing a kimono instead of a medical gown, I am sitting at the kitchen table in my Brooklyn apartment with Matthew Campisi, a professor of electrical and computer engineering at NYU. Goateed and genial, Campisi has stopped by to give me a demo of iBreastExam, a handheld breast-cancer-scanning device that he and fellow med-tech entrepreneur Mihir Shah began developing in 2009 as part of their UE LifeSciences health care start-up. “This is it,” he announces, removing the innocuous-looking pink-and-white appliance from a brown leather box. Resembling a travel-size clothing steamer, the device uses an electronic sensor similar to a smartphone’s touchscreen to detect abnormal breast lumps as small as five millimeters. Cloud-connected and radiation-free, it allows health care workers to perform…

DANCE When the curators behind the 2019 Whitney Biennial selected Madeline Hollander as one of the participating artists, her mind turned to the museum’s home since 2015, a hulking gray structure on the western edge of lower Manhattan. “Every time I’m at the building, I find myself looking into the Hudson,” she says. “The river is the biggest moving body I could imagine working with.” Unorthodox performers are a recurring feature in Hollander’s work. Last year, she choreographed the colorful A.I.-programmed office chairs rolling around Chelsea’s Gagosian Gallery in Urs Fischer’s Play and pitted dancers against airconditioning units in a piece called New Max, about ever-rising temperatures. Climate change is similarly the underlying inspiration for—or threat behind—Ouroboros: Gs, Hollander’s two-day outdoor performance that caps off the Biennial in late September.…

IF HE HAD TO DO it all over again, Ralph Lauren might change it up and become the movie star he always aspired to be. Or maybe he’d be an infielder for his beloved New York Yankees. But really, if Lauren had to pick, he would probably choose to be Batman, a superhero born in 1939—the same year he was. “I still like Batman,” Lauren tells me in his soft Bronx rumble. “I dream about going through Gotham City.” Lauren, of course, did not become Batman. That gig went to Bruce Wayne. Instead, over the course of his career, now in its sixth decade, he became one of the most iconic designers ever, a brand and aesthetic unto himself, with a name that immediately conjures an image both aspirational and…

AS A MISFIT SCHOOLGIRL—“a proper weirdo, a little troglodyte,” as she puts it—growing up in the rural Cotswolds, the perfectly exquisite FKA Twigs (née Tahliah Debrett Barnett; her childhood nickname came from her ability to crack her finger joints) was obsessed by classical ballet and opera, both of which she studied intensively. “Certain things can just change your life forever,” she says. Raised by a single mother obsessed by Westwood and Gaultier, Twigs first introduced herself to style through a nostalgia for the flamboyant New Romantic movement that flourished after punk. In pre-internet England, Twigs looked at old vinyl record sleeves for inspiration—Adam Ant and Bow Wow Wow’s Annabella Lwin were idols—and improvised the looks with her mum’s hand-me-downs and thrift-store trouvailles. (Her current collaborators—including designer Ed Marler, the Central…

Toward the back of my top dresser drawer—the one for pajamas—I have an iPhone 4 in a lime-green case. I bought this now-obsolete phone, refurbished, years ago, as a gift for my son on his 11th birthday. But it was never charged, never turned on, never brought blazing to life as I hoped it would be: with group texts, Instagram, Super Stickman Golf. So the phone sits among my nightgowns, essentially deceased. I only recently acknowledged that it will never be what a phone should be—someone’s steadfast companion, a guilty pleasure, a fetish object alive with the hallucinatory wonders of the entire angelic and demonic internet. What happened is my son rejected my gift. He simply said no to the present I’d bought and wrapped for him. He didn’t want…

FALL SKIN-CARE GUIDE As one of the country’s most prominent dermatologists of color, Rosemarie Ingleton, M.D.—an assistant clinical professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York—knows a thing or two about pigmentation. “Discoloration is the number-one complaint I get from my patients who are people of color,” says the Jamaican-born Ingleton, whose clients have included Chrissy Teigen and Iman, as well as Ashley Graham and Adriana Lima. Now she’s combining 23 years of experience and her Caribbean heritage into a just-launched skin-care range that features a signature moisturizer plus four boosters to combat discoloration, fine lines, breakouts, and irritation. But Rose Ingleton MD Skincare, as the streamlined system designed for all skin tones is called, isn’t your average dermatologist brand. “I wasn’t seeking to do prescription-grade products,” says…

TRAVEL On the remote southern stretch of the Namib desert in southern Africa, on top of a heap of granite boulders, stands an oasis: a cluster of dusky-colored tents on stilts, newly erected as Sonop, the latest from Zannier Hotels. Outside, oryxes, brown hyenas, jackals, and cheetahs roam the scrubby sands; inside, the decor evokes explorers’ encampments of the 1920s, with century-old maps and prints, antique silver-framed photographs, and copper claw-foot tubs. For those wishing to indulge their inner adventurer, there are three-day expeditions to the majestic landscape where the dunes meet the sea. At night, the stars—nestled amid some of the darkest skies in the world—dazzle above. “The environment is so expansive and wild,” said owner Arnaud Zannier of his almost 14,000-acre compound. “Luxury is not just having a…

TELEVISION There’s a moment in Mrs. Fletcher (HBO)—the latest suburban malaise–obsessed Tom Perrotta novel to migrate to the small screen—when the titular character, Eve Fletcher (the wondrous Kathryn Hahn), stretches out on her kitchen floor and indulges in some cheap internet porn. A timer dings—cookies are ready!—and she has to decide what’s more important, those chocolate chips or her orgasm. You’ll find yourself rooting for her to let them burn. Eve’s coddled only child, Brendan (Jackson White), has just left for college, and as a divorcée of many years, she has an utterly empty nest, leaving time and space for fantasies involving the woman handing out Popsicle samples at the grocery store. Meanwhile, the once-popular Brendan is fumbling his way through college, unexpectedly rejected by sorority sisters (and virtually every…

Royals, like successful actors, must make do without some forms of freedom. On the podium or in the camera’s eye, they live in roles that others have provided. Within the court and on red carpets, they’re invested with the harder task of playing themselves. Season three of The Crown, Netflix’s portrait of the rise and reign of Queen Elizabeth II, starts with the monarch contemplating her own aging image on a postage stamp, two enlarged designs from different eras facing her like mirror panes—an unsettling self-encounter echoed at vanity tables and on vintage TVs through the rest of the season. If the series’ first two installments, featuring Claire Foy, played on the theme of duty, the new one, starring Olivia Colman, concerns the pinch of life as a performer. It’s…

ARIANA GRANDE’S VOICE FILLS THE rented Chrysler Pacifica minivan: “The light is coming to give back everything the darkness stole.” Varshini Prakash, executive director of the Sunrise Movement, bops her head, keeping her hands at ten and two on the wheel. “When did this come out?” she asks Jesse Meisenhelter, fellow Sunriser and her copilot on our 10-hour drive between Louisville and Washington, D.C. “It’s so relevant!” Humming along, Meisenhelter, 25, and Prakash, 26 (the same age as Grande), seem more like carefree coeds than leaders of a self-described “army of young people” touring the country to rally support for the Green New Deal—the polarizing climate resolution presented in February to Congress by Representative Alexandria Ocasio-Cortez and Senator Ed Markey. And yet here they are, at the tail end of…

FASHION When Christian Louboutin was a little boy, he spent almost every weekend at the Palais de la Porte Dorée, a museum near his home in the 12th arrondissement of Paris. Funny how these early memories stay with you—decades later, the designer is still haunted by the museum’s doors, designed by an 18-year-old Jean Prouvé and featuring a pattern of pyramids. Those gates—along with all the excitement experienced by a young boy traversing those halls long ago—inspired Louboutin’s latest creations: an exclusive collaboration in honor of the opening of Manhattan’s new Nordstrom store. “The gates had black stripes in metal—one part was always in shadow and one in light, like the triangles on these shoes,” Louboutin says. He’s cradling a vertiginous stiletto that boasts a strap enlivened with spiky metallic…

ART Teresita Fernández is what you might call a conceptual landscape artist. But if the genre brings to mind, say, the placid, leafy oil paintings of the Hudson River School, Fernández’s interpretation is far more expansive. She’s interested in excavating past histories: of people, colonization, violence. And landscape is not just the 51-year-old artist’s subject matter; it’s her medium. The Florida-born, Brooklynbased artist works with gold, graphite, iron ore, and clay—“materials that are parts of actual places.” Take Fire (United States of the Americas) 2, which will appear in “Elemental,” Fernández’s mid-career retrospective opening at the Pérez Art Museum Miami this month (traveling subsequently to Phoenix and New Orleans): It’s a monumental map of the continental United States sculpted from raw charcoal that recalls both the current incendiary national discourse…

MOVIES Jojo Rabbit, the exuberant new period film by Thor: Ragnarok director Taika Waititi, is being billed, somewhat anxiously, perhaps, as “an anti-hate satire.” You can see how a marketing department might go the extra mile to spell this out, given that the movie’s central character is an avid member of the Hitler Youth. But for Jojo (Roman Griffin Davis), it’s just a big, fun club—like Boy Scouts with hand grenades. Then again, he’s a guileless 10-year-old boy who’s lived his entire life in a bubble of propaganda, indoctrination, and persuasive graphic design. Jojo is lonely. His father is gone, his sister is dead, and his mother, Rosie (Scarlett Johansson), doesn’t want to discuss Nazi nonsense. So for this, he turns to his imaginary friend, Adolf Hitler. Hitler—or, rather, the…

When Annie-B Parson was a kid growing up in Chicago in the ’70s, her father didn’t take her to see musicals; he took her to the ballet. This turned out to be a relevant education for the cofounder of Big Dance Theater, the experimental company that injects dance into theater and theater into dance. It was at home that she watched the midcentury classics. “I did love them,” she says. “Those old dances, I know them by heart”—and not just the dances but everything about them. “I was kind of addicted to them, until I totally rejected them and got into Talking Heads,” she says, laughing. She is remembering all this in the SoHo production studio of David Byrne, her childhood idol turned frequent creative collaborator, four months before their…

IT STARTED, AS MANY INNOCENT things do, with cheese. Two pints of fresh pillowy Vermont ricotta, about to go bad. I calculated I had a day to salvage them. My son doesn’t eat lasagna. (It’s a combination of ingredients, and he is a purist.) But a quick search yielded a recipe for ricotta gnocchi: the simplest kind of dumpling. I mixed egg yolks, ricotta, Parmesan, salt, and a smattering of flour, and was rewarded with tiny, savory pasta cushions, light as air. The following morning, my attention was drawn to a shelf of dusty cookbooks containing recipes involving fresh dough. As a rule, I avoid the stuff. When I mix flour with water, I end up with glue. Dried pasta is the best invention of humankind. Why mess with perfection?…

Altuzarra boot, $495 Though they may not be blue, these suede shoes are certainly worth singing about. Part moccasin (note the natural hide color), part Spanish espadrille (note the braided sole), they have an elegant tie that weaves upward to hug the ankle snugly. “I also folded over the top of the boot and lined it in shearling so it felt undone and effortless,” says Joseph Altuzarra—who may have just created that rare breed of shoe that’s more comfortable on than off.…