Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

I still remember that drive like it was yesterday: that wind, the icy spray from the windshield wipers, the snow drifting on the highway. It was the winter of 2001 and I pointed my old Chevy S10 pickup truck southward from Canada to New England, bound for classic ice climbs. As I crossed the border, the storm picked up. Snow blew down the road, the plow lines disappearing behind me. My fingers, even in thick climbing gloves, felt numb—numb in a way that only comes from extreme cold—as the heat only vented toward my feet; at least my toes were warm. When I finally reached Huntington Ravine at daybreak, I met up with friends from university. One drove from Montreal, another had flown in from out west and rented a…

The North Face Women’s Osito Fleece Jacket $150 The Women’s Osito Fleece Jacket features fleece (315 g/m²) for plush insulation and cozy softness. It includes stretch cuffs, zippered hand pockets, and a tall collar to seal out drafts. A go-to midlayer for chilly crags. Petzl Adjama Harness $115 A harness with wide load-bearing panels for comfort and excellent weight distribution. It includes five gear loops (including a rear loop for extra gear), adjustable leg loops, and durable doubleback buckles. A proven choice for trad, multi-pitch, and ice missions. Patagonia Powder Town Beanie $59 This cool hat offers itch-free softness, quick-drying performance, and warmth even when damp. A three-inch rib-knit cuff allows a secure, customizable fit. Perfect for windy ridges or cold bouldering sessions, plus it looks fantastic. Camp Photon Mixed…

This summer me and my friend Sean Bradbury spent a week in Alberta climbing on the beautiful limestone cliffs of the Bow Valley. We had a rad time sampling different crags and routes around the Canadian Rockies, including a day at the famous Planet X crag, some multipitch climbing in Banff, and a day at McGillivray Canyon. On the last day of the trip, my friend Evan Wong reached out to me and mentioned he wanted to shoot a “life-lister photo” on a route in the Stanley Headwall named The Wolverine Petting Zoo. Confused and intrigued by both the name of the route as well as Wong’s distinct keenness for this specific climb, I looked it up. I was feeling cooked after a 17-hour day on Mount Louis a few…

For more than two decades, Gord McArthur has stood as one of Canada’s defining figures in the world of mixed and competition ice climbing, a driven athlete who has carried the maple leaf on the UIAA Ice Climbing World Cup circuit season after season. His story, though, goes far deeper than frozen walls, steel picks, and podiums. Now, with the upcoming release of his new book, Throwing Hope, McArthur opens a window into the mental and emotional terrain that has shaped his career, one that’s as steep and unforgiving as any route in the Rockies. “I’ve lived through a lot of shit,” he says bluntly. “I’ve experienced a lot of death, trauma, grief. But I’ve also found myself in successful moments that were absolutely life-changing. I feel like the book…

Ice climbing is one of the most demanding forms of climbing, combining technical skill, endurance, and preparation. Properly packing your ice climbing bag is crucial for safety, efficiency, and comfort on a cold day. Knowing what to bring, and how to organize it, can make the difference between a thrilling day out and a stressful experience. Clothing and Layers Cold weather protection is the foundation of a successful ice climb. Start with moisture-wicking base layers to keep sweat off your skin. Insulating mid-layers, such as fleece or lightweight down, provide warmth without restricting movement. A durable, waterproof outer shell will shield you from wind, snow, and ice spray. Over all this, pack a puffy coat for belays or rest periods, it’s lightweight, compressible, and a lifesaver when temperatures drop. Don’t…

Pomme d’Or is one of the most recognized ice climbs in Quebec. Located in the Hautes-gorges de la rivière Malbaie, it has been a consistent objective for ice climbers for more than four decades. The first ascent was completed by Kurt Winkler and Jim Tierney in March, 1980. Winkler and Tierney’s ascent showed that large-scale ice in Quebec could be climbed with the techniques and equipment available at the time: straight-shafted tools, rigid crampons, and minimal protection. In 1989, the late Canadian Guy Lacelle made the first solo ascent. It’s one of the classiest ice lines in Quebec, a 360-metre ribbon of blue and gold that rises in unbroken tiers above the frozen Rivière Malbaie. No snow gullies, no tedious snow plods between pitches, just pure, vertical ice from the…