Gripped: The Climbing Magazine October/November 2025 Vol 27 Issue 5

Cover: Ethan Salvo on Event Horizon V16, The Room, Squamish Photo Ryan Moon There was a lack of bolted rock climbs in northwestern Ontario when I moved to the area in 1999—I think there was less than a dozen. And those that were bolted were never bolted to protect the entire route, but just the crux moves. That meant that the first bolt might be 10, even 20, feet off the ground. Stick clips weren’t as popular as they are now, and the ones that did circulate were rarely long enough to reach the first bolts anyway. It meant that to repeat the established routes, you were going to have to risk a dangerous fall. Not every route was like that, but the majority were, especially those in the beginner-friendly…

Arc’teryx Alpha FL 30 $340 This much-loved pack, now in a sleek new colour, is a minimalist’s dream for fast-and-light adventures. Weighing just 560 grams, this durable pack boasts a waterproof fabric that shrugs off rain. Its 30-litre capacity handles climbing gear or overnight essentials with ease. The streamlined design enhances mobility. Perfect for serious mountaineers. Patagonia Black Hole Micro MLC Backpack 22L $189 This backpack is a compact, eco-conscious marvel for travellers. Crafted from recycled polyester with a weather-resistant coating, it’s tough yet stylish. The 22-litre capacity fits carry-on essentials, with a padded laptop sleeve and multiple pockets for organization. Comfortable padded straps and a breathable back panel make it ideal for long hauls. The North Face Norm 5 Panel Hat $47 This stylish, lightweight hat is a versatile…

Laura Rogora, an Italian climbing phenom born in 2001, in Rome, has solidified her place as one of the world’s elite rock climbers, particularly in the world of sport climbing. At just 24 years old, her recent send of Ultimate Sacrifice 5.14c (8c+) in Gorges du Loup, France, marked a historic milestone: she became the first woman to onsight a route of this grade. This achievement not only underscores her exceptional talent but also narrows the gap between male and female climbers at the highest levels of the sport, with the top onsight grade for men: 5.14d, achieved by Adam Ondra and Alex Megos, now just one grade higher. Rogora’s ability to perform at this level, both in onsighting and redpointing, showcases her versatility, mental fortitude, and physical prowess. Rogora’s…

In Yosemite National Park, El Capitan towers 900 metres over Yosemite Valley. The granite monolith draws climbers from around the world each fall, and Freerider (5.13a, VI) stands as one of its most sought-after routes. First freed in 1998 by Alexander and Thomas Huber, Freerider has become a benchmark for big wall free climbing. History of Freerider Freerider builds on the Salathé Wall, first climbed in 1961 by Royal Robbins, Chuck Pratt, and Tom Frost. The Salathé (VI 5.9 C2 or 5.13b/c) ascends El Capitan’s southwest face through cracks and features. In the 1980s, Paul Piana and Todd Skinner attempted to free climb the Salathé, targeting its 5.13 cruxes. Their work set the stage for future free ascents, though challenges persisted. Alexander Huber sought a free variation of the Salathé,…

Bonnie’s Roof, located in the Shawangunk Mountains, commonly known as the Gunks, near New Paltz, N.Y., stands as one of the most iconic trad climbing routes in North America. This two-pitch 5.9 in the Trapps area draws climbers for its exposure, history, and challenge. To understand Bonnie’s Roof, one must delve into its place within the broader context of trad climbing’s evolution on the East Coast, where the Gunks played a pivotal role in shaping the sport. The Gunks, around 150 kilometres north of New York City, emerged as a hub for trad climbing in the 1930s. Fritz Wiessner, a German immigrant with mountaineering experience, documented the first technical climb in 1935, the Old Route 5.5, on Millbrook. Wiessner, alongside Hans Kraus, established routes like High Exposure 5.6 in 1941,…

We talk about hard sends and hard goodbyes as Salvo becomes the first Canadian to climb V16 If Canada gave out awards to its climbers, over the past 12 months, Ethan Salvo would be its MVP. Previously known exclusively for his hard bouldering, Salvo has since branched out to become a truly impressive all-around climber. The past year has been a particularly special chapter in his climbing career. In October 2024, he surprised many with his venture into the world of hard trad, sending the iconic Cobra Crack 5.14b. In June, a month that isn’t often associated with hard climbing, he clipped the chains on the country’s most famous sport climb, Chris Sharma’s Dreamcatcher 5.14d. Three days later, he achieved perhaps his greatest moment in climbing yet: the second ascent…