Gripped: The Climbing Magazine August/September 2025 Vol 27 Issue 4

I’m thrilled to share that a new wave of young climbers is embracing challenging alpinism. The 2010s were tough for alpine climbing, with the loss of several top climbers, but we’re now seeing the dawn of a fresh era. Long-attempted Himalayan routes are being climbed, iconic Rockies climbs are regaining attention, and one young alpinist is redefining boldness in the sport. One of 2025’s standout climbs was the first ascent of Ultar Sar’s Southeast Pillar in Pakistan’s Karakoram mountain range by Maarten van Haeren, Ethan Berman and Sebastian Pelletti. This formidable 3,100-metre route on the 7,388-metre peak, a long-standing challenge for elite climbers, was named Shooting the Moon and graded WI4 M5. Back in 2015, while climbing a new six-pitch 5.10 in the Rockies with van Haeren, I sensed his…

Metolius Big Wall Bucket $63 The Metolius Big Wall Bucket is a game-changer. Spacious yet packable, it holds all your gear securely. Rugged, water-resistant fabric and a sturdy drawcord closure make it ideal for big wall climbs. Highly durable and practical. Patagonia R1 Jacket $209 The Patagonia R1 Jacket is a cozy, versatile gem. Its breathable, stretchy fleece provides warmth without bulk, ideal for layering on hikes or climbs. Durable and eco-friendly, it’s a reliable choice for any outdoor enthusiast. Camp Spark Harness $69 The Camp Spark Harness is a climber’s dream. Lightweight and comfortable, its adjustable fit ensures a secure feel. Breathable padding and durable construction make it perfect for long routes. Mountain Hardwear Men’s Kor AirShell Elevated Hoody $250 The Mountain Hardwear Kor AirShell Elevated Hoody excels in…

Nestled in the heart of Red Rocks, just a short drive from the neon-lit bustle of Las Vegas, this crack stands as a testament to the world-class climbing in this area. Desert Reality is the second pitch to Desert Crack, and it stands out as one of Red Rocks’ most iconic climbs, gracing guidebooks and magazines with images of climbers on it, like Peter Croft, Roxana Brock, and Katie Brown. The route’s allure lies in its stunning horizontal roof crack, where climbers hang inverted, locked into jams. In 1984, Paul Van Betten and Richard Harrison made the first ascent of the roof, inspired by Yosemite’s Separate Reality, which Van Betten revered. Bypassing the overhanging finger crack below, they aided in using two bolts (now one) from an awkward hanging belay,…

Alpine climbing demands physical prowess, mental fortitude, and technical expertise. Success requires preparation, adaptability, and respect for the mountain’s challenges. Below are 20 tips to help you thrive as an alpine climber, structured to provide practical, actionable advice while keeping the mountain’s unpredictability in mind. This guide assumes you have some climbing experience but aims to refine your approach for alpine environments. 1. Master the Fundamentals of Climbing Before trying alpine routes, ensure your rock, ice, and mixed climbing skills are solid. Get your practice on smaller objectives. Alpine climbing often involves varied terrain, from chossy faces to icy couloirs, so versatility is key. Refine your ability to place cams, ice screws, and anchors under pressure, as alpine conditions rarely allow for leisurely setups. 2. Build Exceptional Physical Fitness Alpine…

When comparing a clove hitch to a personal anchor system (PAS), each has distinct advantages and disadvantages based on their uses, safety, and practicality. Below is a breakdown of the pros and cons for each, assuming they are used to anchor a climber to a belay station or other fixed point. Clove Hitch The clove hitch is a knot tied with the climbing rope, often used to secure a climber to an anchor point (e.g., a carabiner or anchor system) at a belay station. Pros Quick to Tie and Adjust ▸ The clove hitch is fast to tie, making it efficient for multi-pitch transitions or when speed is critical.▸ It can be easily adjusted for length without untying, allowing fine-tuning of the climber’s position relative to the anchor. Uses the…

The 1990s marked a transformative decade for American climbing, a period when it evolved from a niche activity practiced by a small group of enthusiasts into a more structured, competitive, and widely recognized discipline. Sport climbing distinguished itself from traditional climbing by emphasizing athletic performance over adventure. During this decade, American sport climbing saw significant developments in competitive formats, routesetting, gyms, and the emergence of iconic figures who pushed physical and cultural boundaries. American sport climbing was still in its infancy, building on the foundations laid in the 1980s. The sport’s growth was fuelled by a shift in climbing culture. The 1980s had seen debates between traditional climbers, who valued minimal environmental impact and self-reliance, and sport climbers, who embraced bolted routes for their safety and focused on pushing physical…